[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

As you saw, still no luck on the uploads. Signed grandpa. I would appreciate one of you millenial surfers ping me and share your email. I'd send ypu the photos to post.

Fired her up earlier this morning. Oil pressure came up a few seconds after starting her up. Immediately jumped up to 100 + psi. Seems like it may be an initial priming pressure as it soon settled back down to the 40s... where it normally is. Is this 100 psi is intended for priming, and is not functioning after the OFHG? Maybe, just maybe (for bb and 9k) the 100 psi is for priming and nothing is telling it to go high temporarily, and then there is air trapped? Or maybe I am just full of it and one of y'all will come up with something plausible. I do agree that there is wear over time until that one straw happens

Ok so you did NOT prime the engine prior to starting it? You just started it right up?

Oil pressure on a cold start will always be 100psi+ it wont drop to normal pressure u til oil temps get above 110f or so... oil thickens as it cools. Thick oil is harder to pump thus the high pressure on startup. This is why we run 0w oils in the winter...

[Speedy_12139]

Someone help this man out!

[rich_mane]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Ok so you did NOT prime the engine prior to starting it? You just started it right up?

Oil pressure on a cold start will always be 100psi+ it wont drop to normal pressure u til oil temps get above 110f or so... oil thickens as it cools. Thick oil is harder to pump thus the high pressure on startup. This is why we run 0w oils in the winter...

I'm guessing this is after picking it up from the mechanic and after the priming procedure was already done.

My motor always had 100+psi of oil pressure from like 1500-3000rpm, warm or cold. Not sure if that was normal but I noticed some other datalogs with the same characteristics so didn't think it was out of the ordinary. It was always around 75-80 during WOT and higher RPMs, but always thought it was strange to be so high during light acceleration.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by rich_mane

I'm guessing this is after picking it up from the mechanic and after the priming procedure was already done.

My motor always had 100+psi of oil pressure from like 1500-3000rpm, warm or cold. Not sure if that was normal but I noticed some other datalogs with the same characteristics so didn't think it was out of the ordinary. It was always around 75-80 during WOT and higher RPMs, but always thought it was strange to be so high during light acceleration.

He is talking about idle cold start. Cold start will always produce 100psi+ idle pressure when the oil is cold. 40psi is normal idle with warm oil. Requested oil pressure is about 78psi at full load throttle. It's not perfect control so yeah you do end up with areas of excess pressure in low gears where volume exceeds what's needed. The oil pressure table was posted in the DIY tuning thread if you really want to see what all the set points are... bottom line is that cold thick oil will result in 110psi+ on startup. The first time cranking after having the oil pump out of the car it's going to take the engine a few seconds to build oil pressure.

[Ozzie335i]

Interesting. I had never done any monitoring on start up. I guess as I never had any cold start issues. I drove the car some this afternoon. I must say that it felt different for a while. It seemed to have settled in somewhat after driving it a bit, and likely will even more in the next few days. I can't say what specifically felt different, the ride, the engine... but it did. The steering did not seem to change, but I will do an alignment anyhow. We all know our cars. I am guessing having the subframe off is going to feel a tad different until things settle. Trust me, I was jonesing to go WOT, but understand that I must wait. But how long? The oil will be replaced after 1000 miles.


A gentleman pinged me for help posting the photos. I sent him the posting. Most appreciated.

[Ozzie335i]

"Ok so you did NOT prime the engine prior to starting it? You just started it right up?"

Correct, there was no priming done as the bearings were coated with the build grease. Other than the dry power steering pump there were no unhealthy sounding noises. I was there for a start up of my mechanic's M3 a year ago after an oil change. There were some sounds coming from that engine for a few seconds that had me thinking metal on metal. He seemed to think nothing and said M3s always start out out that way.

[IllSic_Design]

Attached are Ozzie335i's photos

[fatty335]

Congrats, Ozzie! I know you must feel better with the fresh rod bearings in there. Honestly, for 68K, your bearings didn't look too bad to me - certainly much better than the set I pulled out of my 72K motor. I know there was some back-and-forth on the rod bolt torque setting/procedure when I was doing mine - what did your mechanic end up using? Also, there really isn't any break-in time for rod bearings, although I took it very easy before I changed the oil at 500 miles. So this is interesting; some of the bearings being pulled from still-working n55s don't look too bad (like yours), but some look terrible (mine were all dark, dark brown in color). Hmmm... Thanks for taking the time to photograph/post - I appreciate it!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by fatty335

Congrats, Ozzie! I know you must feel better with the fresh rod bearings in there. Honestly, for 68K, your bearings didn't look too bad to me - certainly much better than the set I pulled out of my 72K motor. I know there was some back-and-forth on the rod bolt torque setting/procedure when I was doing mine - what did your mechanic end up using? Also, there really isn't any break-in time for rod bearings, although I took it very easy before I changed the oil at 500 miles. So this is interesting; some of the bearings being pulled from still-working n55s don't look too bad (like yours), but some look terrible (mine were all dark, dark brown in color). Hmmm... Thanks for taking the time to photograph/post - I appreciate it!

It's even more surprising since Ozzie car is far from stock I believe... right Ozzie335i ?

[Ozzie335i]

Waaay far from stock. Pure 2, port injection and all the supporting hardware. Was 528 whp on e40. e50 and more advance on an MHD custom tune now. To say I am happy is an understatement. I have a fresh bearing set in, and can limp along until I can do a rebuild.

[Ozzie335i]

fatman, I went with 14.75 psi + 70 degrees, then 70 degrees more for good measure. Arnold has a 700 dollar digital torque wrench that does torque and angle. With the settings he can dial it right in. The LEDs tell him when he's getting close, and then dead on. I agree on the break in. Once they are seated by proper torquing, what is going to happen, wear until things are right. Went out to dinner tonight and things felt more seated in. Kathie bought, so all the more better. Having a Jack on the rocks and listening to Neil Young at Massey Hall. Helpess Helpess...

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

fatman, I went with 14.75 psi + 70 degrees, then 70 degrees more for good measure. Arnold has a 700 dollar digital torque wrench that does torque and angle. With the settings he can dial it right in. The LEDs tell him when he's getting close, and then dead on. I agree on the break in. Once they are seated by proper torquing, what is going to happen, wear until things are right. Went out to dinner tonight and things felt more seated in. Kathie bought, so all the more better. Having a Jack on the rocks and listening to Neil Young at Massey Hall. Helpess Helpess...

14 psi ? Atmospheric pressure ? hahahaha. Might wanna check that number.

[Ozzie335i]

Hiccup. You got me there Pladman.14.74 foot lbs. Then the angle torques. As Kathie was buying there were martinis. Gotta love a sugar momma. Moved on from the Canuck to a Yankee guitar player now.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Hiccup. You got me there Pladman.14.74 foot lbs. Then the angle torques. As Kathie was buying there were martinis. Gotta love a sugar momma. Moved on from the Canuck to a Yankee guitar player now.

[feuer]

#4 shows a lot of wear.

[Big_CG]

This is a scary thread. 2011 535i , just did the ofhg last night and changed coolant and oil. Don't want to drive it and kill the engine. I wonder how common it is, there must have been millions of ofhg replacement done over the last decade, I can't imagine all of them primed

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

This is a scary thread. 2011 535i , just did the ofhg last night and changed coolant and oil. Don't want to drive it and kill the engine. I wonder how common it is, there must have been millions of ofhg replacement done over the last decade, I can't imagine all of them primed

Did you drive it? You could still try to take a log at startup or look for your oil pressure for anything alarming.

[Big_CG]

So in my paranoia after reading this thread- I went back out and drained all the oil again to check for shavings or mixed coolant. Nothing, it looked like any oil that has been run for 10 mins would look.

Checked the oil filter housing for any issues- nothing.

Pulled the fuel pump fuses and turned the starter over for 10 seconds, with 30 seconds of cool down following. Did that 3 times total.

It sounds perfect at idle, and I've put about 5 miles on it with no issues at all so far. We will see how next week goes

[vespa]

It's probably not good to run the engine with the fuel pump fuse pulled. The high pressure pump will still run and the injectors will still spray fuel into the cylinders. You need to disable the injectors if you want to crank it safely.

[Big_CG]

Originally Posted by vespa

It's probably not good to run the engine with the fuel pump fuse pulled. The high pressure pump will still run and the injectors will still spray fuel into the cylinders. You need to disable the injectors if you want to crank it safely.

There are three fuses that get pulled. With the fuses pulled, no fuel is supplied to HPFP and the engine won't run or send fuel to the injectors. I cranked it in this condition to get the oil priming, so I don't see how the injectors would be injecting fuel if the car was not starting.



In retrospect, the best bet is probably to disconnect injector harness but that is a bit more time intensive than pulling three fuses in the trunk.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

There are three fuses that get pulled. With the fuses pulled, no fuel is supplied to HPFP and the engine won't run or send fuel to the injectors. I cranked it in this condition to get the oil priming, so I don't see how the injectors would be injecting fuel if the car was not starting.



In retrospect, the best bet is probably to disconnect injector harness but that is a bit more time intensive than pulling three fuses in the trunk.

ur totally ok..

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

There are three fuses that get pulled. With the fuses pulled, no fuel is supplied to HPFP and the engine won't run or send fuel to the injectors. I cranked it in this condition to get the oil priming, so I don't see how the injectors would be injecting fuel if the car was not starting.



In retrospect, the best bet is probably to disconnect injector harness but that is a bit more time intensive than pulling three fuses in the trunk.

Which fuses are pulled?