[polishmafia]

Originally Posted by Roma_335i

I guess you don't know how balance works, or never seen one. Our shop had road force balancer. And how many cars I did never seen 2lbs. Most I seen was about 4oz and thats about 1/4 of a pound.

Balancing involves measuring the diameter of the wheel and how far offset from the hub the inside edge and outside edge are for placement of the wheel weights.

Road force is where the machine puts pressure on the tire while it rotates to determine where the high spots and low spots in weight (lbs) are.

It's a bit scary to hear that you've worked as a mechanic and are confusing the two, but that's all I'll say about that. I'm mainly posting in case someone reads through this thread in the future.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by polishmafia

Balancing involves measuring the diameter of the wheel and how far offset from the hub the inside edge and outside edge are for placement of the wheel weights.

I've never heard of that method of balancing a wheel...I've only ever seen it done by spinning the wheel (without road force) on a machine which measures which direction the imbalance is, then applying weights accordingly. Or statically balancing the wheel on a little jig, etc.

Got any pics/videos/how-to of your method?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Roma_335i

I guess you don't know how balance works, or never seen one. Our shop had road force balancer. And how many cars I did never seen 2lbs. Most I seen was about 4oz and thats about 1/4 of a pound.

You don't know what road force is. Completely different than how much weight you put on the wheel to balance it.

OP, you have a rear rim with 21 lbs of road force, that is going to shake the entire car like crazy.

[2008_335]

21 lb of road force is a lot yes. But will it cause the steering wheel to shake the way it does even though that wheel on is on the rear??

[Tambohamilton]

It might not, but it's guaranteed to be a source of vibration, so it's worth getting it fixed before you spend any more time chasing down problems at the front

[Cdutch513]

I'm in the same boat. Anything noticeable that started the vibration?
Does the symptom change after jacking up the car? Mine seems to change after I jack up the car and lower it again.

[kamaaina1]

What make & model vehicle?

[Soravia]

I have bought a NEW set of Firestone Indy 500 performance tires from Tire Rack before. ALL 4 were out of spec on roundness and vibrated the whole car. I found out at Road Force alignment that they were over 10, well above the spec. Tire Rack replaced all, free shipping, balance cost including to me and I swapped to Continental Extreme Contact Sport.

Will never use Firestone again. Far cry from big brother Bridgestone Pole Position S-04

[polishmafia]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I've never heard of that method of balancing a wheel...I've only ever seen it done by spinning the wheel (without road force) on a machine which measures which direction the imbalance is, then applying weights accordingly. Or statically balancing the wheel on a little jig, etc.

Got any pics/videos/how-to of your method?

We are talking about the same method.

Using a balancer does involve spinning the wheel/tire like you said. Before spinning, there are rods that you use to measure the diameter and width of the rim, but also where you want to place the weights. The difference being where and what type of weights to use - either hammer on weights that hook onto the edge of the rim (think steel wheels where you can see the weights on the outside) versus stick on weights that are on the inside of the rim.

[2008_335]

Guys... I went and got 2 new indy 500s tossed on the rear, wheels were roadforced balanced and I had a four wheel alignment. Still shaking. I don't know what more to do. My front end links are still broken, making terrible clicking sounds. To run down the list of what I have had done:
All new coilovers
4 new tires
4 new wheels
all four road forced balanced
alignment
new flex disc
m3 upper and lower front control arms..

F**** this CAR!!!

[2008_335]

Originally Posted by Soravia

I have bought a NEW set of Firestone Indy 500 performance tires from Tire Rack before. ALL 4 were out of spec on roundness and vibrated the whole car. I found out at Road Force alignment that they were over 10, well above the spec. Tire Rack replaced all, free shipping, balance cost including to me and I swapped to Continental Extreme Contact Sport.

Will never use Firestone again. Far cry from big brother Bridgestone Pole Position S-04

Whaaaat!?!?! When was this? The two in the front I bought in the summer are 225/40/18. Road force balanced to 2 and 1lb of road force. I am not sure about the rears which I just had put on. Did they find out when you went to another shop to get your wheels balanced that all four tires were out of round? That's crazy!

[Tambohamilton]

Your car is RWD, right?

Shaking through the steering can only be coming from the front wheels/hubs really.

I know you've gone through everything with the wheels, but have you tried a known good set (from a car with no shaking?)

Have you done runout checks on the front hub flanges, and with the discs mounted?

[wraxx]

Have you checked the wheel bearings like previously suggested? I'm not talking about runout measurements. Old school tried and true.

1. Jack the front end
2. Leave the wheels on
3. Grab the top and bottom of the each wheel and try to wiggle it.

--If it move AT ALL, you need new wheel bearings or something else is really wrong. Get a friend to wiggle while you watch the components for movement underneath. If you've had vibration for any amount of time in the front end, it will surely effect the wheel bearing and they should be inspected. I had my son do it for me and discovered a lower tie rod AND the wheel bearing where both bad.

Maintenance is ALWAYS cheaper than the repair.

Let us know what you find!

[2008_335]

I'm so confused guys... Still shaking.... the only thing bad right now is my front end links and it seems like everyone agrees that this doesn't cause shaking. My tie rods were found to be fine. The only thing remaining is to check the wheel bearings. I should add, I do not hear any bearing noise when turning my wheels on jack stands, and I do not hear any loud noises like the ones I see on youtube videos on bad bearings. Anyone else have any other suggestions?

When my wheel is moved from the 6 and 12 position, and also 3 - 9 positions, there is no movement.

I will be taking a much more in depth look into my bearings.

[2008_335]

Originally Posted by wraxx

Have you checked the wheel bearings like previously suggested? I'm not talking about runout measurements. Old school tried and true.

1. Jack the front end
2. Leave the wheels on
3. Grab the top and bottom of the each wheel and try to wiggle it.

--If it move AT ALL, you need new wheel bearings or something else is really wrong. Get a friend to wiggle while you watch the components for movement underneath. If you've had vibration for any amount of time in the front end, it will surely effect the wheel bearing and they should be inspected. I had my son do it for me and discovered a lower tie rod AND the wheel bearing where both bad.

Maintenance is ALWAYS cheaper than the repair.

Let us know what you find!

What were your symptoms for bearings? This is my next step.... I just really, really, really hope that this is it.

[Tambohamilton]

Interesting thought, yeah. My partner's 118d is starting to run a *rear* wheel bearing, I believe. There's no bearing noise when driving, and no shaking when driving straight. But turning right on a smooth road, especially when sat in the back, you can feel a bump-bump-bump-bump that varies with speed. Can't feel any play or grumble with the wheel off the ground.

So bearings could be the issue, I think

[Soravia]

I had worn bearings with the 60k mile xDrive and I could hear them hum when coasting on neutral. They didn't shake or anything, yet. But I replaced them and hum went away. Most people would not have thought of it.

[2008_335]

I'm so sick of this car!! Alignment on spec, m3 upper and lower control arms, new struts and shocks, new tires, new wheels, road force balanced 2x!!! I did just find out that my passenger side strut mount is blown and that it's causing knocking. The tech said it was completely blown. I've been searching all day to find out if strut mounts cause high speed shaking and have yet to find any reports. What is next!? Could it be strut mounts? Could it maybe be inner tie rods? I've had my wheels shaken for tie rod testing, is there anyway it's worn in such a way that would fail the "grab and shake" from different angles test?

My bearings are fine according to shop.

[2008_335]

bump plzzz help

[Tambohamilton]

If anything in the front end is blown, it will not be helping. Get the broken parts replaced and reassess.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by 2008_335

My bearings are fine according to shop.

No, they are not. I had similar shaking until i replaced my front bearings. They looked fine, had no play in them, but were shaking at speed if the car was loaded. Also, there was shaking when in corner.

Initially, i thought it was sway bar bushes, but after replacing front wheel bearings (i ended up replacing both), vibration was 95% gone. Replacing discs and pads eliminated all vibration from the front end altogether.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Has it been a while since you were around one if these machines?

Why are you still confusing the wheel weights with road force?

Road force reading and wheel weights are two separate readings. I have no clud why they are getting these two confused.