[Bavarian Black]

Originally Posted by _Sinister_

Damn Noise started ticking louder as soon as I did Oil change and Sparkplugs. Used Mobile 0w-40 Euro blend. Could the oil be the issue since its getting cold here in Colorado?

Never use 0W on a 335i.

Pls read my previous post.

Good Luck

BB

[_Sinister_]

Well looking up on different threads everyone recommended different oils, not trying to start an oil thread again but I used what others recommended making sure it was LL-01approved. I used 6 quarts could this be the issue? ive heard of people putting in 6.9 quarts but I just did what the dealer said.

[_Sinister_]

Oil helped with my ticking sound!

[E81]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Black

Never use 0W on a 335i.

Pls read my previous post.

Good Luck

BB

Why would 0W be bad? It flows better when cold and is recommended by bmw (LL01 and LL04).

[_Sinister_]

Its preference and choice. With research and proven facts I use Mobile1 0w-40.

[smc325xi]

Ticking noise just appeared after 3-stage intake swap. No oil change. Car has sat for a few weeks as I can only work on it weekends (was replacing the water pump and thermostat too). It never had the noise before, but I've only had it for 18 months.

Maybe it's cuz it sat so long? I drove it around the block, but didn't want to go farther. Car has 70k miles, '06 325xi.

[_Sinister_]

Originally Posted by smc325xi

Ticking noise just appeared after 3-stage intake swap. No oil change. Car has sat for a few weeks as I can only work on it weekends (was replacing the water pump and thermostat too). It never had the noise before, but I've only had it for 18 months.

Maybe it's cuz it sat so long? I drove it around the block, but didn't want to go farther. Car has 70k miles, '06 325xi.

Are you due for an oil change? could be that the oil settled to the bottom of your engine.

[Bavarian Black]

Guys pls- I'm only referring to N54 engines. Ok. Manual states only 5w-30 or 5w-40. All cars over the miniminun sheer mark- 50k miles, would be better off with 5w-40 due to piston shearing.

Pls do not confuse the cold ticking start with rev clicking at all temps. Just my 2 cents. If u have a metallic clicking noise at 230f that is loud enough to hear inside the car, I would get it it looked at. Simple.

BB

[smc325xi]

Oil was just changed less than 500 mile ago.

Bavarian Black: I posted this in the "Metallic Ticking noise coming from engine?" thread, not in response to your posts. I thought this would be correct.

[VincentCloudX07]

Can someone help me out? I have a ticking noise, cant say for sure if its what everyone is talking about. I can hear it minimally while inside the car, but if i get out and open the hood, it gets louder when i lean down and listen on the passenger side of the engine. Sounds like a tapping metal? Not like a grinding metal sound, just a ticking like a clock.
could this be the outdated parts everyones talking about?
just had my OFHG replaced along with oil a 2 weeks ago, gauge went down a 1/4 from full, could this be related? Thanks

[VincentCloudX07]

The lifters, i just looked back in the thread and saw this, is that the part that causes the ticking? Has there been a recall on these parts due to numerous problems with others?

[insane79]

Originally Posted by VincentCloudX07

The lifters, i just looked back in the thread and saw this, is that the part that causes the ticking? Has there been a recall on these parts due to numerous problems with others?

how many miles your car has done??

[VincentCloudX07]

Originally Posted by insane79

how many miles your car has done??

Im close to hitting 96k

[VincentCloudX07]

its a 06 325i manual

[Bavarian Black]

Originally Posted by smc325xi

Oil was just changed less than 500 mile ago.

Bavarian Black: I posted this in the "Metallic Ticking noise coming from engine?" thread, not in response to your posts. I thought this would be correct.

No worries bro. We're all on the same team here. Trying to help and learn from each other.

[geminimadman]

My car has been ticking too on and off. It comes and goes and usually is gone after the car is warmed up and ive driven it for a few miles. Car had 61K on it when I got it and now has ~67K. I had my friend (certified bmw tech with his own shop change the oil when I got it with some good german oil. The ticking came on about 2K miles ago or so. Im going to have him change the oil again but this time use 10w-40 or 5w40 instead of 10w-30 and see if that makes a difference. ive done some extensive research and it usually points back to either the oil (in some rare cases) or remedied, at least for a short period of time, by adding new lifters and rocker arms. I also read somewhere that bmw actually issued a recall for ticking noises and swapped out the heads but also stating the ticking noise was in no way causing damage to the engine but I cant find any official details.

Here's what I dont understand: If there is a ticking metallic sounding noise that persists than there is a part thats not functioning properly which in turn means the car is ultimately not running at 100%. but what the hell is causing this issue??? I mean if replacing the lifters temporarily fixes it but then it comes back thats like saying yeah a vicodin killed my headache but then it came back so it must be the vicodin thats the problem...but what about my damn headache!!??!

SO..first ill change the oil, then ill do the HVA bleed, then if its sill there I guess ill replace the lifters?..i just have a hard time doing that since most people that have done that the ticking ends up coming back?
Does anyone make some bmw proof lifters? lol. I just wish there was a soild problem with a solid answer.

[insane79]

when this ticking noise from the lifters happens, do you loose power & performance from the engine? anyone who had this problem can share some light?

Thanks..

[geminimadman]

Ive never noticed any difference in power or engine performance. Im a little curious about software though. I plan on getting the simon tool and AA tune from Jlevi when I do my taxes in January. I wonder if the change in software will have a positive or negative effect on the ticking. On another note I started my car this morning in about 32 degree F weather and didnt notice any ticking at all. I will update when I change to 5w40 as well.

[RMG]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Black

Never use 0W on a 335i.

...what? Where did you get this from?
FYI: The only difference between a 0W-30 and a 5W-30 is that the 0W-30 thickens less after you turn off your engine. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 5W-30. Both are still way too thick to properly lubricate an engine at startup but a 0W-30 is much a much better choice. All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0W-XX oil to mention a few. BMW NA is specifying a 5W-30 because this is what they sell in NA where they offer free maintenance for the first 4 years/ 50k miles. In Germany where the free maintenance is only for 2 years a (...more expensive) BMW 0W-30 oil is specified for N52/ N54/ N55.

It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If someone is interested in his car's engine longevity then he should concentrate his attention at reducing engine wear at startup. And a 0W oil has a better pumpability at startup = the oil gets faster where it's needed = less wear = longevity.

I agree with you on Mobil 1, I don't like it either. Mobil 1 is a blend of synthetic and dino oils and has very few followers on oil forums due to poor oil analysis results. It was originally a pure synthetic, but Mobil successfully lobbied to continue using the 'synthetic' description while changing the formulation to a blend. They can do that in the US (where their lobbying dollars get traction) but countries like Japan and many Euro community members actually require that products are described accurately.

On the other hand Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula sold in US is on the BMW approved oil list and has obtained tons of excellent UOAs (used oil analyses), many of which are reported on the forum "Bob is the oil guy" you mentioned earlier....another reason for the use of the German 0w-30 is the fact that is made from a class IV base, meaning no natural oil is in it. All man made. And most importantly, it has a higher vaporization temperature, which will keep the gasoline which is now diluting it as a result of direct injection, from vaporizing out the crank case and fuming up the intake runners to back of your valves, causing carbon build up there.



Hope this helps...

[geminimadman]

hmm, well maybe ill switch to 0w40, I'll have my mechanic bud order some good german stuff and change it early next week before I go out of town for turkey day.

[RMG]

Originally Posted by geminimadman

hmm, well maybe ill switch to 0w40, I'll have my mechanic bud order some good german stuff and change it early next week before I go out of town for turkey day.

Please find attached the approved BMW oils for NA. Castrol oils are not created equal, only Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30 aka German Castrol 0W-30 shows up on the list and has BMW LL-01 stamp of approval.

I wouldn't use an oil that was not approved by BMW / doesn't show up on this list.

[geminimadman]

Originally Posted by RMG

Please find attached the approved BMW oils for NA. Castrol oils are not created equal, only Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30 aka German Castrol 0W-30 shows up on the list and has BMW LL-01 stamp of approval.

I wouldn't use an oil that was not approved by BMW / doesn't show up on this list.

You have to remember that the oils listed on the list are there because they are available to us in the US market (most any auto part store). My mechanic friend orders oil from germany (same oil that would be on the list if you lived in germany) because thats the oil that was used when the car was first being designed, tested, etc..

I dont remember the brand but ill check when I go to his shop here in a few days. ill re-post when change it to 0w-40.


On a side note, I changed my interior bulbs to LED's from superbrightled.com and my dome and map lights wont turn on after the dimmer turns them off. In other words they work just fine when the car is off and when I first turn it on, but then they dim off and after that they wont turn back on?..wtf?. I found another thread on here where they had same issues but no fix or reason why this was happening. Does anyone know another thread that discusses a fix for this?..I cant seem to find one