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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > Australia > which battery charger should I buy?



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      05-17-2017, 03:40 AM   #45
Trev88
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Random question is an m3 battery the same as a normal one?
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      05-17-2017, 03:55 AM   #46
Ken Oath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kymearra View Post
Can someone answer this? What is the fuse knob on the charger you linked? Does it need to be on/off when charging?

Thanks guys, I am thinking of flashing my car as well with MHD
The fuse is to protect the battery from being damaged by the load and also to protect the charger if the battery was shorted.
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      07-12-2017, 06:24 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Oath View Post
The fuse is to protect the battery from being damaged by the load and also to protect the charger if the battery was shorted.
The fuse went on my dynahub, apparently not your average 12v fuses from repco and other auto stores. Has anyone changed the fuse or point me in the right direction to purchase the correct fuse?
Is it a 240v 20amp fuse?
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      07-12-2017, 07:36 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooks335 View Post
The fuse went on my dynahub, apparently not your average 12v fuses from repco and other auto stores. Has anyone changed the fuse or point me in the right direction to purchase the correct fuse?
Is it a 240v 20amp fuse?
Not sure but you can buy a brand new charger for around $30
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      07-12-2017, 07:39 AM   #49
Ken Oath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooks335 View Post
The fuse went on my dynahub, apparently not your average 12v fuses from repco and other auto stores. Has anyone changed the fuse or point me in the right direction to purchase the correct fuse?
Is it a 240v 20amp fuse?
I would ask why did the fuse fail?

You are using a PWM 20A constant supply which exceeds any natural absorption rate.

For the fast acting fuse try Jaycar, Altronics, RS or Bunnings?
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      07-12-2017, 08:14 AM   #50
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The charger is probably dead, I had a faulty one where it would blow fuses since the main transistor was blown. Just get a new one
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      07-13-2017, 08:30 PM   #51
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Thanks for the responses @Ken oath vtl Socket

Might have to go for the fuse option at jaycar until the new charger gets here in 10 days time. Battery attached at ignition is reading 11.3v at the moment.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/20a-3ag-qu...-fuse/p/SF2208

After replacing the fuse if dynahub charges the battery to 12.4v (unattached to car) would this be good enough? Good enough as in, what are good working chargers suppose to charge battery to "full" capacity? 12.4v? 13v?
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      07-13-2017, 09:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooks335 View Post
Thanks for the responses @Ken oath vtl Socket

Might have to go for the fuse option at jaycar until the new charger gets here in 10 days time. Battery attached at ignition is reading 11.3v at the moment.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/20a-3ag-qu...-fuse/p/SF2208

After replacing the fuse if dynahub charges the battery to 12.4v (unattached to car) would this be good enough? Good enough as in, what are good working chargers suppose to charge battery to "full" capacity? 12.4v? 13v?
The battery voltage is dependant on temperature, battery type and how it is measured.
Measuring voltage is not an acuurate measurement for determination.

Electronic analyisers which measure CCA are more accurate. Carbon Pile testers are also a good instrument but the battery has to be at full charge which is defeatist.

In the table provided an AGM battery at 26.7C & 100% SoC should read 12.8V as per BMW requirements.
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      07-13-2017, 10:02 PM   #53
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Awesome! Thanks for the table Ken. Rest of 4 hours wow.
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      09-20-2018, 02:23 AM   #54
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I'm tired of my booster battery always running out when I need to recharge in winter, so now I use this charger. In the winter I very often play slots in my car, in best quality casino here - pebwallet.com. If the voltage of a discharged battery is very low, most automatic battery chargers activate the protection circuit and turn it off, which is not the case with a manual charger.

Last edited by Ziutha; 10-31-2020 at 06:23 AM..
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      09-20-2018, 07:01 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by Ziutha View Post
I was tired of my battery booster always being dead when I need to boost a battery in winter, so now I use this charger. If a discharged battery's voltage is very low, most automatic chargers will activate a protection circuit and shut off which doesn't happen with a manual charger. So for a really discharged battery you need a manual charger with a big power supply. This Rizk model's instructions state to to switch it to the 60 amp setting for 20 seconds then the 12 volt setting for 20 minutes, and then try and start the vehicle. It works.

I have a few other chargers from an old style automatic to small Battery Minders and Battery Tenders. The small desulfating chargers are attached to my lawn tractor and snowmobile all winter. The Rizk manual charger is used as a booster, or for a deeply discharged battery on the bench, or to charge my Dodge Ram with 2x12V batteries in parallel. It takes a long time to charge two truck batteries so the 20 amp capacity of the Rizk comes in handy, After the amperage draw drops down to less than 5 I replace the manual charger for my old automatic one so I don't overcharge.
This is mind blowingly detailed information on battery charges Z
How is it you know so much about the interesting but obscure topic?
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      09-20-2018, 04:21 PM   #56
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I plug mine into the PowerPoint and turn it on. Works for me!
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      09-24-2018, 03:46 AM   #57
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I plug mine into the PowerPoint and turn it on. Works for me!
Hahhaha this
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      12-26-2018, 08:56 AM   #58
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Official BMW Specification for 12 V Battery Charger

I found this PDF last night. Go to Table 4.1 on page 5 for proper specifications for a power supply/charger depending on application. As others on this thread have stated, a lesser charger could work in some circumstances, but the table lists the "official" requirements (at least for a BMW service center).
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