(N55) Help with VANOS solenoid removal

C_Y88 · 11-01-2017, 03:44 PM

Hey all,

Last weekend I was attempting to pull my VANOS solenoids (

View post on imgur.com

) for cleaning, but I just couldn't get enough room to access them from the top due to all of the hoses and the tight space between the radiator fan and their location.

I was able to remove the hex bolt which mounts the solenoid to the engine, but couldn't get a good grip (that wasn't potentially going to cause damage) with some needle nose pliers to remove the solenoid. Next I tried to remove the radiator fan, but couldn't get that to slide out. I removed the torx screw on the passenger side, then popped the tab out down on the driver side, but It seemed to still be connected to something near the rubber plug on the driver side?

Has anyone done this before?? Any help would be deeply appreciated!

Stage5Lurker · 11-09-2017, 12:08 PM

I just recently did this myself without removing anything. The part in the bracket with the "slit" is where I stuck a flathead and turned the solenoid enough to get a good finger grip on it and slowly work it out. I know everything in that area is mostly plastic, but it is tougher than I am guessing your assuming?

jwh335i · 11-09-2017, 01:30 PM

The fan requires quite a bit of juggling and wrestling. Get underneath car and push from one side to the other until it gets stuck. Then go from the trunk and do the same, get back underneath, etc. It will eventually come out. But BMW never makes anything easy but for bleeding the electric water pump and the doo-hickey that you flip up on the coils that lets you pull out coils easily. Everything else is a struggle.

juld0zer · 11-12-2017, 05:01 AM

Lube the rubber grommet for the lower charge pipe with WD40 or silicone spray then lever the pipe away.

Detach the under cover and detach the transmission cooler if yours is not a manual. There is a Torx screw there and then you just swing it out of the way.

Aside from that, you can work the Vanos solenoids using an open end spanner on the connector. They are quite tough surprisingly. Wiggle the connector using a spanner whilst gently levering underneath the connector. It will eventually come out.

It also helps to do this on a warm engine I've found. But many others will tell you they had more success on a cold engine.

Hannibal4444 · 11-15-2017, 03:08 PM

Did you ever get it out? About a year ago I tried to get mine out too, but I could never pull it out no matter what I tried.

Street of Rage · 11-22-2017, 12:40 PM

You gotta be patient with pulling them out... juggle them a little, pull a little, take a short break, then back at it again. They are PITA and hurt your hands in process lol. I didn't have to take the fan out. Maybe easier if you take the fan out. Definitely lube them.

STurnerXM2010 · 11-27-2017, 02:53 AM

Rotate counterclockwise about 40 degrees and you should be good. If you're still having trouble, that entire fan assembly is a breeze to pull. Good luck.

vespa · 12-18-2017, 04:30 PM

Yes, unlike the N54 where these can be replaced on the side of the road in 30 seconds, they're almost impossible on the N55 with all the hoses and wires and that very tight fit. Those things are so damn tight I had trouble getting them back in!

I recently removed mine for a 100K mile cleaning (which they absolutely did *not* need!) so I didn't want to touch any of the plastic. Knowing that the sealing surface is deep inside the bore and that the metal solenoid housing has a small steel flange all the way around, I found a small thin screwdriver that I could wedge into the junction to pry them loose. In the end it only took about an hour to remove/reinstall those 2 10mm bolts plus about 2 hours to remove/reinstall the solenoids.

STurnerXM2010 · 12-25-2017, 04:31 AM

Should be a straight forward replacement, much like the N54. I try to clean mine about every 10K or so and haven't had any major problems thus far. Twisting back and forth, being careful not to stress the connector too much, should help. You're only going to get about 3/8" travel, but it's enough to break them lose. Be sure to lube the new o-rings on reinstall. That same twisting motion can bite you in the a** if you're not careful aligning the seats.

GORDON.M3 · 12-25-2017, 11:28 AM

Anything you do, don't drop the screw that's holding the solenoid in place when removing it!

Stage5Lurker · 12-25-2017, 01:33 PM

Nothing stock needs to be removed. Maybe the cover. a lot of patience and muscle burn. Get a flat head in the slit and it should wiggle out. Make sure you unplug them both. Mine is wrapped in a way that looks as if the wire goes a different direction. Pretty easy. Watch the orings and you're good.

11-01-2017, 03:44 PM	#1
C_Y88 New Member 4 Rep 8 Posts Drives: 2011 E92 335i N55 Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: NH iTrader: (0)	(N55) Help with VANOS solenoid removal Hey all, Last weekend I was attempting to pull my VANOS solenoids ( View post on imgur.com ) for cleaning, but I just couldn't get enough room to access them from the top due to all of the hoses and the tight space between the radiator fan and their location. I was able to remove the hex bolt which mounts the solenoid to the engine, but couldn't get a good grip (that wasn't potentially going to cause damage) with some needle nose pliers to remove the solenoid. Next I tried to remove the radiator fan, but couldn't get that to slide out. I removed the torx screw on the passenger side, then popped the tab out down on the driver side, but It seemed to still be connected to something near the rubber plug on the driver side? Has anyone done this before?? Any help would be deeply appreciated!
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11-09-2017, 12:08 PM	#2
Stage5Lurker Private First Class 45 Rep 158 Posts Drives: White Buffalo Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kirkland, WA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2012 BMW LCI e92 33 ... [10.00]	I just recently did this myself without removing anything. The part in the bracket with the "slit" is where I stuck a flathead and turned the solenoid enough to get a good finger grip on it and slowly work it out. I know everything in that area is mostly plastic, but it is tougher than I am guessing your assuming?
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11-09-2017, 01:30 PM	#3
jwh335i New Member 31 Rep 27 Posts Drives: 2007 335i Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Newport Coast, CA iTrader: (0)	The fan requires quite a bit of juggling and wrestling. Get underneath car and push from one side to the other until it gets stuck. Then go from the trunk and do the same, get back underneath, etc. It will eventually come out. But BMW never makes anything easy but for bleeding the electric water pump and the doo-hickey that you flip up on the coils that lets you pull out coils easily. Everything else is a struggle.
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11-12-2017, 05:01 AM	#4
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	Lube the rubber grommet for the lower charge pipe with WD40 or silicone spray then lever the pipe away. Detach the under cover and detach the transmission cooler if yours is not a manual. There is a Torx screw there and then you just swing it out of the way. Aside from that, you can work the Vanos solenoids using an open end spanner on the connector. They are quite tough surprisingly. Wiggle the connector using a spanner whilst gently levering underneath the connector. It will eventually come out. It also helps to do this on a warm engine I've found. But many others will tell you they had more success on a cold engine.
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11-15-2017, 03:08 PM	#5
Hannibal4444 Private First Class 27 Rep 144 Posts Drives: N55--E93 6MT Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: San Jose, CA iTrader: (0)	Did you ever get it out? About a year ago I tried to get mine out too, but I could never pull it out no matter what I tried.
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11-22-2017, 12:40 PM	#6
Street of Rage Second Lieutenant 60 Rep 217 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335i e92 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: 818 Northridge iTrader: (0)	You gotta be patient with pulling them out... juggle them a little, pull a little, take a short break, then back at it again. They are PITA and hurt your hands in process lol. I didn't have to take the fan out. Maybe easier if you take the fan out. Definitely lube them.
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11-27-2017, 02:53 AM	#7
STurnerXM2010 New Member 4 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 2012 335i E92 M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Frisco, TX iTrader: (0)	Rotate counterclockwise about 40 degrees and you should be good. If you're still having trouble, that entire fan assembly is a breeze to pull. Good luck. __________________ 2012 E92 335i M-Sport w/M-Tech; 6MT, CDV upgrade, BMS Intake, BMS CP, N20 MAP (CP only), VRSF DP, Fuel-It Stage 1 LPFP, BMS oil cooler valve, fully adjustable M3 camber kit, MHD Flash, CF high kick spoiler, M4 black chrome grills, and much more to come...
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12-18-2017, 04:30 PM	#8
vespa First Lieutenant 217 Rep 245 Posts Drives: 2011 335i Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Thousand Oaks iTrader: (0)	Yes, unlike the N54 where these can be replaced on the side of the road in 30 seconds, they're almost impossible on the N55 with all the hoses and wires and that very tight fit. Those things are so damn tight I had trouble getting them back in! I recently removed mine for a 100K mile cleaning (which they absolutely did not need!) so I didn't want to touch any of the plastic. Knowing that the sealing surface is deep inside the bore and that the metal solenoid housing has a small steel flange all the way around, I found a small thin screwdriver that I could wedge into the junction to pry them loose. In the end it only took about an hour to remove/reinstall those 2 10mm bolts plus about 2 hours to remove/reinstall the solenoids.
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12-25-2017, 04:31 AM	#9
STurnerXM2010 New Member 4 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 2012 335i E92 M-Sport Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Frisco, TX iTrader: (0)	Should be a straight forward replacement, much like the N54. I try to clean mine about every 10K or so and haven't had any major problems thus far. Twisting back and forth, being careful not to stress the connector too much, should help. You're only going to get about 3/8" travel, but it's enough to break them lose. Be sure to lube the new o-rings on reinstall. That same twisting motion can bite you in the a if you're not careful aligning the seats. __________________ 2012 E92 335i M-Sport w/M-Tech**; 6MT, CDV upgrade, BMS Intake, BMS CP, N20 MAP (CP only), VRSF DP, Fuel-It Stage 1 LPFP, BMS oil cooler valve, fully adjustable M3 camber kit, MHD Flash, CF high kick spoiler, M4 black chrome grills, and much more to come...
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12-25-2017, 11:28 AM	#10
GORDON.M3 Brigadier General 1423 Rep 3,001 Posts Drives: E92 M3 • F25 X3 M-Sport Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: LAX/YYZ/NRT iTrader: (11)	Anything you do, don't drop the screw that's holding the solenoid in place when removing it! __________________ INSTAGRAM: GORDON.M3 North American Mr12Volt Carplay/Android Auto Distributor DINAN \| EVOSPORT \| VAC \| ARP \| RD SPORT \| NEEZ \| EIBACH \| CSF \| IND \| BILSTEIN \| KLASSEN \| BREMBO \| ENDLESS \| BBS \| BPM SPORT \| PROJECT MU \| EVENTURI
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12-25-2017, 01:33 PM	#11
Stage5Lurker Private First Class 45 Rep 158 Posts Drives: White Buffalo Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Kirkland, WA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2012 BMW LCI e92 33 ... [10.00]	Nothing stock needs to be removed. Maybe the cover. a lot of patience and muscle burn. Get a flat head in the slit and it should wiggle out. Make sure you unplug them both. Mine is wrapped in a way that looks as if the wire goes a different direction. Pretty easy. Watch the orings and you're good.
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