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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Tracking, Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques > Using the top of the oil thermostat for additional cooler



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      08-03-2015, 08:54 AM   #23
davidwarren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B.J.C. View Post
Looks great! How did you mount the top of the new oil cooler? Can you take a pic?
You can see it in the pics if you look really closely. I just used the same allthread as I did for the bottom and drilled a 1/4-inch hole in the black plastic bracket under the headlight to pop the thread through and put a nut on it. The close-up photo of the cooler has the nut right at the very top of the photo.

The bumper (LCI e90 m-sport) fit back on fine. There was plenty of clearance between the cooler core and the back of the fog light too.

I just drilled a couple dozen 1/2-inch holes in the wheel liner behind the cooler. Some sheet metal work would be good to build a duct for the cooler and send some back towards the brake opening too. But that's for another day.

I'll see if I can get a photo of it all buttoned up later today.
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      08-05-2015, 02:00 PM   #24
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What adapters did you use for the M20 to AN10? I ordered some from summit but they cant be threaded all the way onto the oil cooler due to contact with Oil cooler internals.
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      08-05-2015, 05:54 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by just_dirty View Post
What adapters did you use for the M20 to AN10? I ordered some from summit but they cant be threaded all the way onto the oil cooler due to contact with Oil cooler internals.
The mishimoto banjo. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmbb-10anbk

Edit- I also have the AD thermostat. I don't think it makes a difference since the mishimoto doesn't got all the way down the threads. But FYI. http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p19/BMW_...hermostat.html
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      08-05-2015, 06:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
The mishimoto banjo. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmbb-10anbk

Edit- I also have the AD thermostat. I don't think it makes a difference since the mishimoto doesn't got all the way down the threads. But FYI. http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p19/BMW_...hermostat.html
Damn thats an expensive fitting!! I just ordered the a pair of the special Setrab fittings and it cost less than one of the Mishimoto ones. Anyways thanks for the reply.
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      08-05-2015, 09:10 PM   #27
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Nice job.

Is there any reason you didn't consider a fitting like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Oil-cool...3D321424945145 in order to avoid the hood clearance issue?

I am evaluating whether I want to add a second oil cooler or add the water cooler and that fitting seems to avoid the clearance issue. Quality is unknown, however, which is factor for me as well.
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      08-05-2015, 09:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Nice job.

Is there any reason you didn't consider a fitting like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Oil-cool...3D321424945145 in order to avoid the hood clearance issue?

I am evaluating whether I want to add a second oil cooler or add the water cooler and that fitting seems to avoid the clearance issue. Quality is unknown, however, which is factor for me as well.
Never saw that.
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      08-05-2015, 09:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just_dirty View Post
Damn thats an expensive fitting!! I just ordered the a pair of the special Setrab fittings and it cost less than one of the Mishimoto ones. Anyways thanks for the reply.
Which one did you get?
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      08-06-2015, 12:52 AM   #30
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https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8839

That's the one I ordered. Has shorter threaded section and O ring to fit the Setrab core.
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      08-06-2015, 06:10 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just_dirty View Post
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8839

That's the one I ordered. Has shorter threaded section and O ring to fit the Setrab core.
That won't fit the oil top of the oil thermostat. Those are m22, not m20.

Edit- never mind, I just saw you were talking about the oil cooler connection. For some reason, I thought you were talking about the thermostat connection. I used the same fitting for the cooler. I bought the cooler from an eBay store, and they gave you a set of those for free.
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      07-27-2016, 12:00 PM   #32
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Anyone looking to do this and actually tracks the car- you'll have to address the removal of the stock brake duct. I made actual ducting off the underbody panel. I seized the driver side brake caliper earlier this year. I went through a couple versions and am happy with the setup as it is currently. Just did over 130 laps last weekend at Putnam in the heat, no brake issues. Running PFC-08 with solid guide pins and SS lines. Motul 600.

I ate through half of an HT10 at the same track earlier this year before the caliper seized.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1287364
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      07-28-2016, 08:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
Anyone looking to do this and actually tracks the car- you'll have to address the removal of the stock brake duct. I made actual ducting off the underbody panel. I seized the driver side brake caliper earlier this year. I went through a couple versions and am happy with the setup as it is currently. Just did over 130 laps last weekend at Putnam in the heat, no brake issues. Running PFC-08 with solid guide pins and SS lines. Motul 600.

I ate through half of an HT10 at the same track earlier this year before the caliper seized.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1287364
I removed my fog lights, and put in ducting from i think the 335is to the oil cooler. You can't fit both that duct and the brake duct without doing some cutting. In the end, you can just cut the stock brake duct up some and fit both pieces behind the grill. I still have the stock cooler, so I only know this works for the stock cooler on the passenger side of the car.
I would recommend removing the fog lights as well. that and the ducting lowered my temps on the street by about 5 degrees.

Could you not fit the stock brake ducting due to the size of your new additional cooler?
Why did your caliper seize? was it because your brass caliper bushings got dirt in them? or do you think it was heat related.
I've got solid caliper bushings and now you've got me kind of worried lol.

I plan on replacing the stock cooler with a setrab core using a oil T-stat housing block off plate and a new external thermostat, since the stock Tstat only opens once the oil reaches about 245 i think.
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      07-29-2016, 07:43 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shirtpants_ View Post
I removed my fog lights, and put in ducting from i think the 335is to the oil cooler. You can't fit both that duct and the brake duct without doing some cutting. In the end, you can just cut the stock brake duct up some and fit both pieces behind the grill. I still have the stock cooler, so I only know this works for the stock cooler on the passenger side of the car.
I would recommend removing the fog lights as well. that and the ducting lowered my temps on the street by about 5 degrees.

Could you not fit the stock brake ducting due to the size of your new additional cooler?
Why did your caliper seize? was it because your brass caliper bushings got dirt in them? or do you think it was heat related.
I've got solid caliper bushings and now you've got me kind of worried lol.

I plan on replacing the stock cooler with a setrab core using a oil T-stat housing block off plate and a new external thermostat, since the stock Tstat only opens once the oil reaches about 245 i think.
I added a large oil cooler in the driver side wheel well. The stock brake duct does not fit in any way. I seized the driver side caliper because of the lack of cooling. But it was fine on the street. I was at the track when it seized. On that wheel, I ate through half of an HT-10 pad in a day. The other side, with the stock ducting, was fine. I wasn't even running solid bushings up front, just the stock rubber bushings. I replaced the front bushings and lines when I replaced the caliper. I use the AD thermostat that opens around 185 or so.
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      07-29-2016, 04:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
I added a large oil cooler in the driver side wheel well. The stock brake duct does not fit in any way. I seized the driver side caliper because of the lack of cooling. But it was fine on the street. I was at the track when it seized. On that wheel, I ate through half of an HT-10 pad in a day. The other side, with the stock ducting, was fine. I wasn't even running solid bushings up front, just the stock rubber bushings. I replaced the front bushings and lines when I replaced the caliper. I use the AD thermostat that opens around 185 or so.
Gotcha. I assumed the ducting would still fit with a larger cooler, good to know so i can have the materials ready to set up another set of ducts when i swap the cooler.
Thanks
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      11-07-2017, 03:37 PM   #36
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The Mishimoto Small Dual Pass oil cooler is a perfect fit for the driver side fender well. It will clear fog lights and brake duct. I never followed through with the install since I decided to move my trans cooler in front of the radiator with a setrab 72 row series 1.
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