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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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R32GOJIRA Intro and his 335i
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12-25-2015, 03:40 AM | #23 |
11 second stock turbo club. 11.6@120mph
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Congats on the purchase, and the 32 GTR. It seems that a lot of us guys that now own 335i's had a GTR at some stage
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JB4 ISO - 3" Catless Downpipes - RB Inlets to be fitted - BMS DCI - VRSF 7" intercooler - Charge pipe & Raceport BOV - BMW PE exhaust - Stage 2 fuel pump - BMS E85 Flash/ E50 mix, running map7 - NGK Plugs - BMS Catchcan - RB pcv valve - Quaife LSD - 19'' Beyern wheels - Msport suspension - M3 rep sideskirts - Aero front lip - Lux V5's - Mid kick rear spoiler - Dark tint - Msport steering wheel with M3 paddles & trim
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12-25-2015, 06:05 PM | #26 |
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12-25-2015, 06:10 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
Yeah i wanted a daily that was very comfortable yet still had road presence and a bit of get up and go. Ive had my GTR for about 12 years now, and knowing what the stock 2.6L with twins was like, the N54 335i was a no brainer for me. |
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12-29-2015, 04:37 PM | #30 | |
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Drives: E91 335i, B5 RS4, F31 330i
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Looks like a great set. What are all the suspension parts worth on the second hand market? I would really like to get a set if the price is right. |
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12-29-2015, 05:15 PM | #31 |
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I paid $80 per arm for these genuine M3 items and they are pretty much brand new ☺
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01-14-2016, 03:55 AM | #32 |
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OK, so last week was the last week of my holidays and i was lucky enough to get a day or two of sunshine towards the end of the week, and i took the opportunity to install a couple of the M3 items that i purchased before christmas.
I decided id take some step by step pics and do a mini DIY for peeps looking to do this in the future, as i couldnt find anything on the forum. However its pretty easy to do. First up, the standard cowling on a 335i |
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01-14-2016, 04:11 AM | #35 |
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Also make sure to unplug the sensor on the drivers side and move the wiring out of the way so you dont tear it out when removing the lower part of the cowl.
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01-14-2016, 04:19 AM | #37 |
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You can then gently pull the wiring harness out of the cradle and move it to the front a little so it is out of the way. There are 3 lines in the top part of the cradle and one held just on the underside.
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01-14-2016, 04:23 AM | #38 |
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You can now remove the bottom part of the cowl. Its held in by 2 8mm bolts and some rubber clips. The bolts and clips are undone, gently pull the panel upwards from the leading edge and towards the front of the car. It should just slide out.
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01-14-2016, 04:40 AM | #39 |
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Now would be a good time to change the hard vacuum line that runs across the engine cover as it is now extremely easy to access, but unfortunately i left this step till last as i didnt know better.
I just used a stanley knife and gently cut through the two ends of the hose, one towards the fire wall and one at the tee piece next to the intake, which is slipped over the barbs, as it is difficult to just pull them off. So once you do this, there is no going back as the hard pipe is no longer any good. It is also held on by a plastic clip near the intake on the passenger side shock tower. I then (thanks to INK) used a length (i bought 2 meters just to make sure i had enough, but you need about 1.5 meters) of 3/8" power steering (or transmission) hose and starting from the barb at the fire wall end, I routed it along the fire wall and down the air con line, through the factory clip that held the hard pipe and onto the barb on the tee piece. I used a bit of lubricant (WD40) to help squeeze the hose over the barbs and used a couple of hose clamps to make sure it had an air tight seal on both ends. Next was to start the install of the M3 cowl, starting with the passenger side half of the bottom housing, as the M3 one comes in 2 pieces. Insert this piece in the reverse way you pulled the original one out. Fix it down with the rubber clip and an 8mm bolt. |
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01-14-2016, 04:44 AM | #40 |
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Next is to install the drivers side half, which goes in the same way as the other half.
Then once you have fixed it down with the 8mm bolt and rubber clip, make sure the join in the middle is lined up with the tab, and then secure it together with another 8mm bolt (hopefully it is supplied with the cowl). |
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01-14-2016, 04:47 AM | #41 |
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Next is to install the bottom half of the M3 wiring harness cradle.
This slips into place with 3 tabs and then screwed down again with 3 8mm bolts (hopefully these are also supplied with the setup) |
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01-14-2016, 04:51 AM | #42 |
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Now the 335i wiring harness will not fit into the M3 cradle as it is, so the two thicker lengths of the harness will need to have the conduit stripped off.
Very carefully use a stanley knife to strip this off, as you dont want to cut through any of the wires sheaths being protected by the conduit. |
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01-14-2016, 04:56 AM | #43 |
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Now the wires are exposed, you need to cover them up.
Use a good quality electrical tape and bundle each of the looms and cover with tape until the entire length that was exposed is now protected again. Make sure to tape a little way up the remaining part of the conduit to make sure the loom is sealed and wont let water or anything in. I suggest to use black tape as it will blend in and give it an oem look. |
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01-14-2016, 05:04 AM | #44 |
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Once this is done, you can then nest the looms into the M3 cradle.
Put the larger taped loom closest to the window. Then the smaller taped loom together with the smaller of the four looms in the next part (if you dont you will have to cable tie it up under the cradle and make it look untidy) Then the remaining smooth line will go at the very front. The lines may be a little tight, so be careful not to pull too hard as you may damage something. |
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