[Kenneykickin]

Do the front wheels have to be removed to do pan gasket?

[tip_m]

Yes, you’ll need to drop or at least lower the subframe to access the oil pan which requires loosening or removing the control arms.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by tip_m

Yes, you’ll need to drop or at least lower the subframe to access the oil pan which requires loosening or removing the control arms.

Yeah, darn it. Attempting job today. That’s what I didn’t want to do was loosen the or remove control arms. Loosening isn’t too bad but didn’t want touch suspension if I didn’t have too.

50skid diy on YouTube shows that loosen control arms barely did anything for him for clearence wise. Same with popping the steering shaft too. Says both are optional but I’ve seen other diy and other threads about atleast loosening the control arms. I just definitely don’t want to remove them.

[Kenneykickin]

50skid diy on YouTube he does loosen the control arms and pops the steering shaft for “photo shots” but afterwards he states it wasn’t necessary and that it didn’t hardly do anything for extra clearance/more space.

Trying to do minimal as possible.

[Bims328i]

Not sure if N54 is all that different but on N51 I didn't have to loosen control arm hardware. Removed the sway bar but didn't even have to unbolt the steering rack or remove the bolt for steering shaft. Used some silicone on the control arm bushings to help them move but probably not necessary. Was plenty of clearance for the job.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Not sure if N54 is all that different but on N51 I didn't have to loosen control arm hardware. Removed the sway bar but didn't even have to unbolt the steering rack or remove the bolt for steering shaft. Used some silicone on the control arm bushings to help them move but probably not necessary. Was plenty of clearance for the job.

This is how I’m planning on doing it

[Bims328i]

Nice, hope it goes well for you. Remember to remove the two rear angled subframe bolts first and reinstall last after the four flat main bolts and subframe are nicely seated. Also, if the pan will not drop after all pan bolts are removed keep in mind rear crank throw can get in the way of the back ledge in the oil pan.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Nice, hope it goes well for you. Remember to remove the two rear angled subframe bolts first and reinstall last after the four flat main bolts and subframe are nicely seated. Also, if the pan will not drop after all pan bolts are removed keep in mind rear crank throw can get in the way of the back ledge in the oil pan.

Thanks for all your replies crank throw can? Thanks for tips on subframe
Bolts. I will follow that procedure. Also, I prob should remove tires just to take some weight off the suspension/subframe to make it easier to move around if I have to wedge the pan out, etc.

Thanks

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

Thanks for all your replies crank throw can?

Depending on the crank's position, it can obstruct the pan dropping. You may have to turn it manually a quarter turn or so to get it out of the way.

[Kenneykickin]

Update; I have all the bolts out of the pan now. Just have to pry it off in the morning. Didn’t want leave it exposed all night. But all bolts are out. I hope I can get it out which I think I can. Left steering shaft attached and didn’t touch the control arms/wheels still on.

Will update tomorrow

Thanks for all replies

[Kenneykickin]

So, I have the oil pan all unbolted, got it off but I can’t exactly get it out, lol. Too tight. I have nOT removed shift linkage though or loosened the control arms. I was hoping this wasn’t needed and I’ve read somewhere that it’s not needed but obviously I am not good at “Tetris” as other folks on this forum are, lol.

I will remove shift linkage and see if it gives me a little more clearence. I’m close but need like maybe a half inch or so more clearence.

Any tips best way to get it out other than the 2 things I mentioned?

Also, was worried about removing steering linkage because of the reninstall. Is it a pita to reinstall? Or will it just pop back in once jack up the subframe to reinstall than just put the new bolt in?

Thanks

[mainbearing]

Is the subframe supported by any jack at the moment? Or just hanging loose like 50skid's video?

You can swing the subframe forward/reward a little just to see, and pushing UP on the front cross bar of the subframe (by the radiator), and the see if the rear of the subframe will tilt down giving you that 1/2" you need.

I would not want to mess with any steering threads if I do not have to.

[tip_m]

The steering shaft extends a fair bit so you won’t need to mess with unbolting it.

[GoRomeo]

You guys are brave to do this DIY. I would rather pay a shop to do it. 😜

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Is the subframe supported by any jack at the moment? Or just hanging loose like 50skid's video?

You can swing the subframe forward/reward a little just to see, and pushing UP on the front cross bar of the subframe (by the radiator), and the see if the rear of the subframe will tilt down giving you that 1/2" you need.

I would not want to mess with any steering threads if I do not have to.

Yea it’ll push forward and rearward but I already took off the bolt and popped the steering linkage. Didn’t seem to really give me anymore clearence. I’ll mess with it tomorrow. My next go about was to loosen the control arms a little to reduce the preload. But yes it’s hanging there like in the 50skid video.

I didn’t want to remove the steering linkage lol, now you got me scared hope it goes back in fairly easy when I lift the subframe back up for install. But we’ll see.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

You guys are brave to do this DIY. I would rather pay a shop to do it. 😜

Yeah, I am that guy as well, lol. But I was not going to pay a shop 1800+ or whatever they wanted with some janky work Probaly always. Plan to chase out the threads as well and do a clean install but I’ll update how everything goes.

[BRG_N54]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

So, I have the oil pan all unbolted, got it off but I can’t exactly get it out, lol. Too tight. I have nOT removed shift linkage though or loosened the control arms. I was hoping this wasn’t needed and I’ve read somewhere that it’s not needed but obviously I am not good at “Tetris” as other folks on this forum are, lol.

I will remove shift linkage and see if it gives me a little more clearence. I’m close but need like maybe a half inch or so more clearence.

Any tips best way to get it out other than the 2 things I mentioned?

Also, was worried about removing steering linkage because of the reninstall. Is it a pita to reinstall? Or will it just pop back in once jack up the subframe to reinstall than just put the new bolt in?

Thanks

I am about to start this service and have researched quite a bit. Have you removed the sway bar mounts? Have you removed the small coolant pipe that runs along the top of the subframe? Those two steps seem crucial in removing items from the subframe that may prevent it from dropping. I plan to follow the technique shown by Bimmerbarn, plus I have a quickjack. None of the DIY's I have seen mentioned anything about the shift linkage, I don't think that is related at all. The steering shaft looks pretty simple, just one bolt and it only goes back on one way.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

I am about to start this service and have researched quite a bit. Have you removed the sway bar mounts? Have you removed the small coolant pipe that runs along the top of the subframe? Those two steps seem crucial in removing items from the subframe that may prevent it from dropping. I plan to follow the technique shown by Bimmerbarn, plus I have a quickjack. None of the DIY's I have seen mentioned anything about the shift linkage, I don't think that is related at all. The steering shaft looks pretty simple, just one bolt and it only goes back on one way.

My apologies, yes the steering shaft is what I was meaning, not the shift linkage. Yes I have removed everything you mentioned above. I followed bimmerbarn and also 50s kid. The quickjack will make this job a lot more comfortable, idk about easier but definitely comfortable. You’ll have about 6-7” higher than I do with the 24” lift height of the quick jack. Also, I only have the front jacked up and not on all 4s but it’s not making a difference for this job in my opionion. I have a Ffriend coming over later this evening to help finagle the subframe while I try to remove the loosened pan.

[Kenneykickin]

Okay pan is out. Helped with removing steering shaft. Pan is now back up for most part I have all the small bolts in.

Question - does anyone know or remember where the 2 shorter of the longer bolts go? It is on the right side closer to driver side?

Also, is the bell housing bolts the bolts that go in horizontal? I should have done better noting them as I took them out.

Appreciate the help

[Kenneykickin]

I also have 5 if the long bolts left over js this normal from the fcp kit????

[Kenneykickin]

Also, does anyone know if the 3 (bell housing bolts E10) I think that’s what they call them. Those bolts all go in horizontal is that correct? 2 that hold the plate up by the transmission than one that’s above that?

[Kenneykickin]

I’m down to my last bolts. I just can’t figure out the last couple where they go and don’t want mix them up.