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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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cable from alternator to battery no power?
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01-02-2019, 04:42 PM | #1 |
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cable from alternator to battery no power?
long story short found a massive pool of water in my e93 trunk, car was fine now its not, AA bloke said alternator is fine but theres no power coming from the battery cable, at the moment its submerged in a few inch of water just wondering what to do besides drain water and check all cables???
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01-02-2019, 05:01 PM | #2 |
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...MYWq-2Nox6dBTs
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fllgpkJ-Ey8n-v Seems like a common problem. electical e90 pdf http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU You might have BST problems as well. Read the first electrical pdf at least. Last edited by ctuna; 01-02-2019 at 05:25 PM.. |
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01-02-2019, 05:43 PM | #4 |
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No idea but it won't be cheap.
It will be way cheaper if you can DIY of course. And if you don't have to replace the power cables. I think most of this is going to be Labor as usual. Better check to see if its flooded on the other side to when that happens it takes out the Amplifier if you have one. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ble/1VnXRqeX8A Don't know if this is the right procedure for your car . Knock yourself out on the tis site. The above site has repair procedures https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ I kind of depends on how corroded it is if you need to replace it or not. Might be some fuses gone to. I would do a visual on the fusible links on the battery distribution block described in the first pdf. Also check the BST to. Last edited by ctuna; 01-02-2019 at 06:31 PM.. |
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StradaRedlands4943.00 |
01-03-2019, 12:54 PM | #5 |
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drained all water today going to give it a good clean in the morning will let you , will it harm the car if I take the battery out overnight to charge it?
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01-03-2019, 03:02 PM | #6 | ||
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B) Do you have a battery charger? C) Do you have a multimeter? What I find of concern is your statement that the AA guy said there was NO 12V+ at the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood? If that is correct, that suggests that the fusible link on top of the battery (Rear Power Distribution Panel) has burned out due to water saturation of the two insulated "Power Transfer Points" through the chassis just in front of the battery. Both of those "Points" are 12V+, the larger wire going to starter & alternator, and the other smaller wire to the DME, but if water stood in the battery well, saturating those insulators, either or both could have shorted to ground. If yes to A, B & C above, I would recommend the following steps: 1) Remove battery, clean & dry exterior of battery, measure voltage, charge at 6 to 10 Amp rate for 5 hours with automatic charger that measures battery state of charge, or automatically reduces Amps to 2A trickle charge rate when fully charged. 2) Test Voltage again and continue charging if less than 12.5V 15 minutes after charger disconnected. 3) Remove ALL water from battery well. Dry thoroughly with towels, particularly around the two "power transfer points" that are insulated conductors passing through the body at the two points just above the floor forward of the battery. Use a heat gun or blower to thoroughly dry those conductors and insulators. 4) Test for ANY continuity to ground between the cable coming from the positive battery terminal and ground -- should be essentially infinite resistance (open circuit). 5) Test for continuity between the positive battery terminal where it connects to (+) battery post, and each of the two cables at the Power Transfer Points. If either one is open-circuit, your Rear Power Distribution Panel (on top of battery) will need to be replaced, as the fusible link has burned out. You will probably need to reset some things after reinstalling the battery, but that is the least of your worries. I would suggest focusing on determining if the fusible link burned out, correcting that issue, preventing future short and burning of fusible link, and restoring battery State of Health & SoC. Of course, if you can't keep the car covered, identifying and repairing the leak source becomes the first priority. Please let us know what you find, George |
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StradaRedlands4943.00 |
01-14-2019, 11:33 AM | #7 |
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Hi guy thanks for the info, been badly sorry for the late reply. This is where I'm at right now,
Waters out and all cleaned, the batterys full charge and seems to be holding it, I'm going to check the pass through terminals this weekend but I think there ok as I actually get power to my dash just the car doesn't want to start makes a click. @George the guy from aa jumped my car from the front whilst charging the battery so I think I got that wrong in my opening statement, would this mean the power distribution on my battery be ok? |
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01-14-2019, 12:27 PM | #8 | |
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01-14-2019, 03:49 PM | #9 | |
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On a serious note...I've seen a few posts about this...does anyone know what is causing the water ingress and how to prevent it? |
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01-15-2019, 02:28 PM | #10 |
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Ok. its just a long bar to hit starter with. Sorry my phone's predicting text is adding words on me. If battery is not fully charged, it will not be strong enough to start engine. That's why all you hear is the clicking.
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01-15-2019, 06:33 PM | #11 | |
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A battery with less than 12.0V charge can often give a "ratchet-like" repetitive clicking when you press START, or it can just click once. You need to immediately measure battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals to determine battery charge. Often, if you get just ONE click from the starter (and the battery voltage is >12.0V), the Starter Solenoid is sticking, and tapping the solenoid (the small cylinder on top of the Large starter cylinder) will "UN-stick" it. On old starters years ago, that might even work for worn brushes. If that gets it to crank, don't press your luck, the stick may NOT work the next time. George |
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StradaRedlands4943.00 |
01-16-2019, 07:41 AM | #12 |
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Thanks George but I think I've sussed it, the pass through terminal is corroded and snapped off, only the big one tho. No recall from bmw for this which is very poor to say the least
Last edited by danny_boi; 01-16-2019 at 07:48 AM.. |
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01-16-2019, 07:49 AM | #13 |
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01-16-2019, 08:54 AM | #15 |
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01-16-2019, 09:59 AM | #16 |
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Also i have a vehicle safety recall from bmw "installing and repair cable for positive battery terminal line" Can some confirm if this is the same cable that's knackered on mine if so they've clearly not fixed the problem and I will be seeking legal action
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01-16-2019, 11:52 AM | #17 | |
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Recall 18V314 only related to ~6,600 E90 335D vehicles (at least in US -- UK or other markets may differ). See this RCRIT for details on affected vehicles, what the issue was, and how the repair was to be performed: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...8V314-0322.pdf Here is a TIS procedure for repair of the Transfer Points in front of the battery (better than YouTube ;-) https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ble/1VnXWUgICS I would suggest DIY action as opposed to legal action. Please let us know how it was repaired, George |
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01-17-2019, 04:15 PM | #18 |
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Thank you for that phew good job I didn't go guns blazing 😂, You don't know if the battery cable from any e90 will fit or is the e93 specific cable? If so I can get one from bmw salvage near me if not I'll be trying to find a garage to repair the cable
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01-17-2019, 05:06 PM | #19 |
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Been through this on a E90 335 AND and E93 M3. You can fix this yourself for a few dollars:
Disconnect stupid ass distribution block from top of battery Unbolt the cable from that stupid ass terminal at the bottom of the battery box Cut off the terminal ring that has been underwater and is likely corroded into fragments Go to Autozone and buy a copper ring terminal for #2 battery cable with a 5/16" mounting hole Remove insulation from the end of the cable you cut off. If the wire is visibly corroded, cut it back until it looks cleaner Put the ring terminal over the end of cable and crimp it with a big ass pair of slip jaw pliers. Is this the recommended procedure? No, experts will tell you to solder or to crimp with a hydraulic crimper or both. However, the big ass slip jaw crimp will hold it for a very long time. If you're particularly anal, peen the crimp area with a hammer and punch. Reinstall cable assembly. Or just buy a new one for $203 But really, if you don't find out why you accumulated water, it's just gonna happen again. That part took me quite a while and there were different causes in each car. The M3 is my favorite - stupid ass body shop re-installed the rubber fitting around the gas filler incorrectly after a collision repair. This caused rain water to be shunted under the trunk compartment lining directly into the battery box. I had to seal myself into the truck with a flashlight while my wife used a garden hose to soak the outside of the car. Thanks for allowing me to vent Last edited by dpaul; 01-20-2019 at 06:23 AM.. |
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StradaRedlands4943.00 |
02-12-2019, 06:50 AM | #22 |
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Cars all fixed but I'm having issues with the battery, says something like battery discharge! so looks like a new battery been quoted £355 supplied and fitted 230 for battery alone. Is there a way I can code battery and save abit of money thanks in advance
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