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      07-09-2015, 10:16 PM   #67
ri0
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To chime in on this. DTC works ok, but if you spin the wheels for more than a second or so it immediately closes your throttle which is crappy in all the fun situations. Only alternative is to somehow program the ecu to think its rwd or start pulling fuses? I've not yet found a way to turn dsc into 335i mode.
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      07-12-2015, 08:05 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0 View Post
To chime in on this. DTC works ok, but if you spin the wheels for more than a second or so it immediately closes your throttle which is crappy in all the fun situations. Only alternative is to somehow program the ecu to think its rwd or start pulling fuses? I've not yet found a way to turn dsc into 335i mode.
This is 100% spot on. I pulled the driveshaft on my n55 335xi and it did the exact same thing. Said screw it and put it back in.

With jb4 on map 5 and couple gallons of e85 if it was raining out it would spin the rear tires at 45-50mph in 2nd gear. In first it would just spin violently for a second and then the throttle would cut and throw a 4x4 warning.

Oh well screw it. In rear wheel drive this car desperately needs a LSD.
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      07-16-2015, 05:51 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by carguy138 View Post
This is 100% spot on. I pulled the driveshaft on my n55 335xi and it did the exact same thing. Said screw it and put it back in.

With jb4 on map 5 and couple gallons of e85 if it was raining out it would spin the rear tires at 45-50mph in 2nd gear. In first it would just spin violently for a second and then the throttle would cut and throw a 4x4 warning.

Oh well screw it. In rear wheel drive this car desperately needs a LSD.
I pulled mine Sunday night, no codes yet. Haven't tried DTC yet, just on or completely off. E30 and map 5 spins mine in second while dry lol. Next time I drive aggressively, I'll throw dtc on and see how it behaves
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      08-15-2015, 01:12 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by cmg5461 View Post
I pulled mine Sunday night, no codes yet. Haven't tried DTC yet, just on or completely off. E30 and map 5 spins mine in second while dry lol. Next time I drive aggressively, I'll throw dtc on and see how it behaves
Hey I'm curious if you you can engage cruise control? I'm very interested...
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      08-17-2015, 07:31 AM   #71
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Hey I'm curious if you you can engage cruise control? I'm very interested...
Yes, CC works when DTC is fully on. One press and completely off do not work.


On the other hand, I autocrossed with it yesterday and it felt like DTC was on when I had it fully off. The throttle response was abysmal after the rears broke loose.

Probably some internal precaution to make sure the TC doesn't explode if the front and rear wheels aren't both spinning.

Maybe we can spoof the front wheel speed sensors to output the same as the rears
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      06-06-2016, 06:56 PM   #72
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Removed the front driveshaft again today. Some strange shit is going on.

The car has much more power compared to last year when I removed it. Probably a good 50hp more. Driving aggressively, when the wheels start to spin, I feel the throttle plate completely close when the wheels break loose. I have TC completely off. Should allow for indefinite wheel spin. 4x4! light comes one with abs/brake.

codes:

Also code 632D is present in most modules.


I'm able to wiggle the ass when I dump the clutch in 3rd/power oversteer in 2nd. Anything prolonged and I hit a brick wall. No power. Any ideas?

All I wanna do is fry my rears as it's time for new tires
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      03-23-2017, 04:57 PM   #73
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Just to clarify no one has seen any reason to think that this could hurt the car? That and how much power/torque is potentially lost by turning the input mount for the front driveshaft? It wouldn't have any force to it just rotating freely so I don't think it would be all that much. Im interested in converting to 2wd for the summer would probably get better mpg and hopefully spin the rear every blue moon.

Thanks Carl
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      12-09-2017, 03:02 PM   #74
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I'm trying to track down some front end noise that I'm told isn't wheel bearings or suspension related and now its time to diagnose the drivetrain. Is the front drive-shaft always spinning with these cars? I'm just not getting a good picture of how this works in my head as i thought it only worked when it needed to.
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      12-11-2017, 08:05 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by p.s. View Post
Is the front drive-shaft always spinning with these cars?
Yes it does, if the front wheels are turning, front drive shaft will be spinning.

Basically it is same thing as what is on the back axle. There is a front differential in between two half axles that go to each front wheel. And front drive shaft goes to the front differential, just as rear drive shaft go to the rear differential.
The difference between rear drive shaft and front is how power is delivered to them. The rear driver shaft is always connected fully to the transmission output through the transfer case.

The front drive shaft is connected to the transmission output via a clutch pack which is controlled by the AWD system. When the clutch pack is fully open front drive shaft doesn't receive any power from the transmission output, spins freely with the front wheels. All power (torque) goes to rear.

When the clutch pack is fully pressed locking up, the front drive shaft is fully attached to the transmission output, same as the rear driveshaft. So 50 % power goes to front, 50% goes to rear in that case.

And so front can get from 0 to 50% any amount depending on how much the clutch pack is clamped, all electronically controlled real time.

When the front drive shaft is removed, of course front axle receives no power regardless what the clutch pack does. And since rear is directly connected to transmission output all the time, it always gets 100% output with front drive shaft removed, again regardless of the clutch pack does.
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      03-31-2019, 04:51 PM   #76
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i know this is a really only post, but i have some concerns. i have a an 08 535xi and my FR axle broke. it was on the side of the road in front of someone's house 3 miles from my house for a couple days. i came across this post from a google search so i took out both ends of the broken axle and the front driveshaft to get it home. i replaced the axle and supporting bearing/bracket since it broke when the axle came apart at the inner cv joint. i also replaced the wheel bearing.

now my concerns and questions. i just came across something on a TIS site that says DO NOT move the car with engine power while the front prop shaft is disconnected. it says if you do, you have to recalibrate the tcase. did anyone not do this when they installed the prop shaft after driving wo it? is it required for 3series or only 5series?

also did you reuse the e torqs bolts that hold the front prop shaft? i dont have a torq to yield torq wrench. and i need the car for work so i was going to reuse the bolts with lock tight untill i got new ones.

now that i found the recalibrating thing after moving the car wo the front shaft i dont know if i should drive the car. i work 35-40mins away. 10mins on backroads and the rest highway.
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      03-31-2019, 05:08 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadidaskv View Post
i know this is a really only post, but i have some concerns. i have a an 08 535xi and my FR axle broke. it was on the side of the road in front of someone's house 3 miles from my house for a couple days. i came across this post from a google search so i took out both ends of the broken axle and the front driveshaft to get it home. i replaced the axle and supporting bearing/bracket since it broke when the axle came apart at the inner cv joint. i also replaced the wheel bearing.

now my concerns and questions. i just came across something on a TIS site that says DO NOT move the car with engine power while the front prop shaft is disconnected. it says if you do, you have to recalibrate the tcase. did anyone not do this when they installed the prop shaft after driving wo it? is it required for 3series or only 5series?

also did you reuse the e torqs bolts that hold the front prop shaft? i dont have a torq to yield torq wrench. and i need the car for work so i was going to reuse the bolts with lock tight untill i got new ones.

now that i found the recalibrating thing after moving the car wo the front shaft i dont know if i should drive the car. i work 35-40mins away. 10mins on backroads and the rest highway.
I have reused the steel bolts that hold the front/rear of the front drive shaft many times. I also use locktite as well and have never had a problem with them loosening. As I recall I torqued them to around 45ftlb. I have also driven then car without the front drive shaft but this is the first I have heard that a recal is required. I have done the xfer case recal with DIS the couple of times I changed the xfer case fluid. If it was me I would put the front shaft on as you say and then drive the car and see if there is any binding around corners. If not you are likely okay. If the xfer case does act up then buy the xdelete APP to disable the xfer case until you can get it reset.
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      03-31-2019, 05:58 PM   #78
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this is where i found the recal.

these are the bolts you have reused? they look and feel like aluminum.

trq is 20nm then 45degrees. i thought when it comes to trq to yield bolts they cant be reused because the bolt stretches and can't be retorqued properly?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...pshaft/DiN5Yo8
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      03-31-2019, 08:07 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadidaskv View Post
this is where i found the recal.

these are the bolts you have reused? they look and feel like aluminum.

trq is 20nm then 45degrees. i thought when it comes to trq to yield bolts they cant be reused because the bolt stretches and can't be retorqued properly?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...pshaft/DiN5Yo8
Mine are def not aluminum and take 45ftlbs no problem
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      04-01-2019, 06:31 PM   #80
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i put a magnet to one of the bolts today and they aren't aluminium. they sure do look like it though. especially with all the other aluminium bolts on bmw's, i thought for sure it would be. i guess they just have a zinc coating on them. i tried to torq them to 40 ft/lbs but the angle i was at (one wheel up on a jack stand) i couldnt put pressure on them evenly so it just took way too much force it felt like they were going to snap, or round the heads. along with trying to keep the prop shaft from spinning it was jus a hell of a time. i got 3 bolts on the front and one or two on the back torqued, but ran out of time since i tried to do it after work and didnt have much time to begin with. i also spent a little bit on time trying to get the end of the axle throught the hub. theres about an inch left to come out before i can catch threads with the nut to get it the rest of the way out, but the damn thing jus wont budge. i know ill get it once i have more time to spend with it, and hopefully find a better way to keep the prop shaft from spinning and get those bolts torqued.

im still jus really worried about calibrating the tcase. i have a snap on solus pro scan tool, but im not sure if that will do it, plus i had a problem trying to communicate with the car when first got it. my cheap little bluetooth scanner connects no problem, but i couldnt get my solus pro connected.

i also got one of those kits from ebay that has the cable, ista, inpa, and one or two other softwares, but when i tried to hook up to it before, 90% of it was in German so i couldnt figure out how to use it. i think it was inpa i tried.
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      04-02-2019, 08:43 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadidaskv View Post
i put a magnet to one of the bolts today and they aren't aluminium. they sure do look like it though. especially with all the other aluminium bolts on bmw's, i thought for sure it would be. i guess they just have a zinc coating on them. i tried to torq them to 40 ft/lbs but the angle i was at (one wheel up on a jack stand) i couldnt put pressure on them evenly so it just took way too much force it felt like they were going to snap, or round the heads. along with trying to keep the prop shaft from spinning it was jus a hell of a time. i got 3 bolts on the front and one or two on the back torqued, but ran out of time since i tried to do it after work and didnt have much time to begin with. i also spent a little bit on time trying to get the end of the axle throught the hub. theres about an inch left to come out before i can catch threads with the nut to get it the rest of the way out, but the damn thing jus wont budge. i know ill get it once i have more time to spend with it, and hopefully find a better way to keep the prop shaft from spinning and get those bolts torqued.
I get my wife to sit in the car and hold the front drive shaft (that's what she said) in place with the brakes while I torque one of the bolts. Release the brakes, easily hand turn the front shaft to the next spot, brakes on, torque it and so on.
Make sure the axle spline and hub spline are super clean and use some wd40. If you can put the axle in a freezer it will actually help. I used a 2x4 on the edge of the outer CV joint to gently tap it in far enough to start the nut.
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      04-02-2019, 03:36 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown07 View Post
I get my wife to sit in the car and hold the front drive shaft (that's what she said) in place with the brakes while I torque one of the bolts. Release the brakes, easily hand turn the front shaft to the next spot, brakes on, torque it and so on.
Make sure the axle spline and hub spline are super clean and use some wd40. If you can put the axle in a freezer it will actually help. I used a 2x4 on the edge of the outer CV joint to gently tap it in far enough to start the nut.
ya ita clean and lubed. i dont want to take it back out to freeze it since it was a b!tch to get the circlip end seated, and everything else is already back together. its an aftermarket axle and there no place to put anything on to tap it in, unless i were to take the boot off but then it would come apart.
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      04-04-2019, 07:47 AM   #83
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There is a tool for that

Someone here on the forum had shared this a year ago or so:

https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-puller-b8800102

They sell on ebay too
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Drive-A...YAAOSwohVcZSJI

I don't have any first hand experience, just conveying info I found/read before.

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      04-09-2019, 10:02 PM   #84
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interesting. i ended up getting my axle in. i jus kept working it until it came through enough to get the nut started. the one thing that concerns me about this video, he gets the axle through the hub then says connect it to the dif. wouldnt that make the inner joint not as tight and more likely to come apart like mine did at the inner joint since you're getting the outer in place then pushing the inner into the dif?
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      04-10-2019, 07:07 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadidaskv View Post
interesting. i ended up getting my axle in. i jus kept working it until it came through enough to get the nut started. the one thing that concerns me about this video, he gets the axle through the hub then says connect it to the dif. wouldnt that make the inner joint not as tight and more likely to come apart like mine did at the inner joint since you're getting the outer in place then pushing the inner into the dif?
There is a c-clip at the differential end of those axles. When pushed in all the way it engages with a groove cut inside the diff and stays put. It pops in. It only comes out if it axially pushed out with enough force that squeezes the c-clip to pop it out of its groove. Regardless if axle was first it was put in diff or to the wheel hub, as long as the inner joint end axle was pushed until it popped into its place inside the differential, it won't matter.

The inner CV joint allows a few inches of axial movement, so under normal use and suspension geometry, it can't come out enough to push the end of the axle pop out. If things go wrong it may rip the inner rubber boot first instead.

If your axle came out you should check the engine mount bracket bolts, check if any of them are broken. If they are, this lets the engine move around which in turn allows the inner cv joint to move more than it is designed for and can come out. In N52 (non-turbo) AWD E90's there has been several cases people shared that this happened and resulted in repeated replacement of the CV axle until the real culprit, which was broken bolt or bolts on the engine mount bracket was found and replaced. In N52 because these bolt on to the magnesium engine block, they are aluminum. In N54/N55 they don't have to aluminum but BMW sometimes shares same bolts between these engines, so I would check them if I were you.
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      05-10-2019, 02:20 AM   #86
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Great read, interesting idea to delete FWD

Thanks for the post OP, its a great idea for summer rides in addition its a good way to troubleshoot front diff noises.

Will do on this my car for sure to troubleshoot and to see how it feels to have only RWD.
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      05-24-2019, 12:10 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0 View Post
To chime in on this. DTC works ok, but if you spin the wheels for more than a second or so it immediately closes your throttle which is crappy in all the fun situations. Only alternative is to somehow program the ecu to think its rwd or start pulling fuses? I've not yet found a way to turn dsc into 335i mode.
Anyone figure out this issue? Only problem im running into after front drive shaft removal any fuses? Coding?
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      05-28-2019, 05:43 PM   #88
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Hey bud I blew my transfer case with no front driveshaft in..
Not saying for sure that was the cause but I took it out because of vibration.. Had ordered new driveshaft but went on vacation in rwd and I took like I stole it and got trifecta of lights.. x-delete I hear is good app you can switch back and forth .. it releases tc clutch so I don't think you can damage it..
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