[JunkyardDogg]

So I seem to have caught the mod bug again. I've been running MHD Stage 1 93 for a while now but was considering selling the car. Now that i've decided to keep it, i'm thinking of going full FBO. My only concern is that it is a daily driver and I don't want to fuck it up by going too aggressive and prematurely killing the stock turbos. I recently installed a new FMIC but have yet to flash the Stage 1+. I was gonna stop there, but now i'm debating on DP for a Stage 2+. Should I stop at FMIC or go DP as well for Stage 2+? I'm at 44K miles right now.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Judging from logs, FBO is well within the safety limits of the turbos. Most of the time the turbos are not working over their 70% limit.

Engine is solid, so no worries there

the last thing left is the transmission, as long as you are udner the 550 whp limit the transmission lasts for a long time

[type-dRew]

They would die even if the car was left alone, just assume you'll need some turbos in the future and enjoy your car however you want.

Anything over stock is going to 'kill them prematurely' because you're working them twice as hard as they would stock, or more. Just the nature of it. The mild bump in 'stages' is barely going to be discernible to the turbos, as stock to tuned is the largest jump in output.

May as well enjoy it while they are working fine. I run my oem 158k mile turbos hard at 21psi peak with an ethanol blend and enjoy my car every day, i just try to ignore the wastegate rattle.

[tan_rich]

2013 335is dct,

Stage 1+(intercooler+intakes) for 35-45k miles.
Stage 2+(intercooler+intakes+downpipes) for 45k-80k miles.
Stage 2+ flex fuel e35 (fbo+ff) 80-92k Miles.

Car was daily driven since I bought it from the previous owner. Turbos were boosting well and car didn't live an easy life. Nothing major broke other than o2 sensors going bad around 80k miles. Did plugs oem spark plugs every 10k mile then swapped to 95776. Did oil every 3-4K miles. Brake flush, coolant, transmission fluid, differential as needed.

Yes things here and there will break for any car, the rate is just accelerated on a modified car. The key to a long lasting car is maintenance.

Notice your car is having weird or long starts, check logs to see if it's your fuel pump going. Replace or remedy it before it breaks so it doesn't induce a failure somewhere else. See your fuel trims are really high or abnormal, check to see if your o2 sensors are working properly.

Notice something weird happening on your car or any car and don't ignore it. Preventive maintenance is the best maintenance.

Just remember it's a pay to play game.

[zomski101]

I don't want to sound like a negative Nancy but if you plan on going to stage 2+ I would have money aside for new/upgraded turbos. I was running stage 1+ e50 for 20k miles then I put on dp and flashed the stage 2+ e50 map and my turbo seals went 3 days later and was off boost target by 3 psi. Granted the car had 80k miles, but within those 3 days the car just kept you in your seat till redline unlike 1+ where power would fall off at 6k. If you plan to just run 93 you should be fine.

[mweisdorfer]

If you want to increase the longevity of the turbos, get rid of the cats & secondary cats. No back pressure will make your turbos happy.

[nicky dj]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

2013 335is dct,

Stage 1+(intercooler+intakes) for 35-45k miles.
Stage 2+(intercooler+intakes+downpipes) for 45k-80k miles.
Stage 2+ flex fuel e35 (fbo+ff) 80-92k Miles.

Car was daily driven since I bought it from the previous owner. Turbos were boosting well and car didn't live an easy life. Nothing major broke other than o2 sensors going bad around 80k miles. Did plugs oem spark plugs every 10k mile then swapped to 95776. Did oil every 3-4K miles. Brake flush, coolant, transmission fluid, differential as needed.

Yes things here and there will break for any car, the rate is just accelerated on a modified car. The key to a long lasting car is maintenance.

Notice your car is having weird or long starts, check logs to see if it's your fuel pump going. Replace or remedy it before it breaks so it doesn't induce a failure somewhere else. See your fuel trims are really high or abnormal, check to see if your o2 sensors are working properly.

Notice something weird happening on your car or any car and don't ignore it. Preventive maintenance is the best maintenance.

Just remember it's a pay to play game.

+100

[nicky dj]

Other than preventative maintenance - It's all about how you drive the car too; how you shift when to shift, warm up the car to driving temps, watch your temp gauges, when to let off and cool off, don't launch every light to blow your torque converter, etc. you drive like a kid around town launching WOT 10 straight red lights redlining and disregarding your gauges your car and wallet is going to hate you.

[JunkyardDogg]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

2013 335is dct,

Stage 1+(intercooler+intakes) for 35-45k miles.
Stage 2+(intercooler+intakes+downpipes) for 45k-80k miles.
Stage 2+ flex fuel e35 (fbo+ff) 80-92k Miles.

Car was daily driven since I bought it from the previous owner. Turbos were boosting well and car didn't live an easy life. Nothing major broke other than o2 sensors going bad around 80k miles. Did plugs oem spark plugs every 10k mile then swapped to 95776. Did oil every 3-4K miles. Brake flush, coolant, transmission fluid, differential as needed.

Yes things here and there will break for any car, the rate is just accelerated on a modified car. The key to a long lasting car is maintenance.

Notice your car is having weird or long starts, check logs to see if it's your fuel pump going. Replace or remedy it before it breaks so it doesn't induce a failure somewhere else. See your fuel trims are really high or abnormal, check to see if your o2 sensors are working properly.

Notice something weird happening on your car or any car and don't ignore it. Preventive maintenance is the best maintenance.

Just remember it's a pay to play game.

Are you tuned with MHD? and if so, can you monitor the above things with it?

Thanks guys, I feel more confident with going full fbo although i'm a bit concerned over the rasp created by the DP. Seems like its more of an issue for IS guys.

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Are you tuned with MHD? and if so, can you monitor the above things with it?

Thanks guys, I feel more confident with going full fbo although i'm a bit concerned over the rasp created by the DP. Seems like its more of an issue for IS guys.

If you leave your exhaust alone otherwise you wont have a rasp issue

[Jklad]

Going full bolt on excluding e85 wont cause issues or repairs that the car wouldn't suffer in its stock form, except that you'll have to replace spark plugs and coils at shorter intervals. The laundry list of stuff that breaks or leaks on this car will happen regardless of fbo, assuming you drive it similarly. Also, the car will not rasp with catless dp on the stock mufflers.

[1sicke92]

Originally Posted by nicky dj

Other than preventative maintenance - It's all about how you drive the car too; how you shift when to shift, warm up the car to driving temps, watch your temp gauges, when to let off and cool off, don't launch every light to blow your torque converter, etc. you drive like a kid around town launching WOT 10 straight red lights redlining and disregarding your gauges your car and wallet is going to hate you.

this is more like what's going to happen. If you're constantly launching the car, you're going to have transmission issues. If you are flooring it all the time and pushing the car to redline all the time, you're turbos will eventually go. Look, there's no such thing as a "reliable" sports/race car. Especially one that is not engineered from start to finish to handle the power we're pushing on these things.

[tan_rich]

Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg

Are you tuned with MHD? and if so, can you monitor the above things with it?

Thanks guys, I feel more confident with going full fbo although i'm a bit concerned over the rasp created by the DP. Seems like its more of an issue for IS guys.

For the most part yes. You will need basic engine maintenance know how as well for leaks and such.

For rasp atleast. You get replace secondary cars with resonators or modify it another way. 335is exhaust sounds great with downpipes but the rasp around 5500rpm isn't nice imo.

[SJ_1989]

Regarding rasp....I had none with BMS DP's and COBB exhaust. A lot of people hate on the COBB exhaust because of price yada yada but it was the best sounding exhaust IMO when I owned it. Everyone is different. Be prepared to hear a lot more wastegate rattle though (if you have it) by removing the resonators and secondary cats. I had terrible wastegate rattle and it was annoying AF.

Regarding longevity....depends on how you drive. Drive like Grandma with 700 hp and it will have little effect. Take it to redline consistently....it will be reduced. It's referred to as Miner's rule in the engineering world (accumulated damage model predicting life).

[thurstonhowelltha3rd]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you want to increase the longevity of the turbos, get rid of the cats & secondary cats. No back pressure will make your turbos happy.

I hope this is true. I'm allergic to cats