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      09-16-2019, 05:22 AM   #23
mecheng77
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
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I forgot to mention that I had replaced the belt and tensioner just recently. I was honestly reay lucky because when I removed the belt, it was cracked all around and I was surprised it held up all this time. I say that because I had that belt for around 20k miles now, probably got it all gunked up from when I did the VC gasket, and Radiator jobs. The hose from the thermo to the head was replaced as part of 2, and lemme tell you, it broke literally when my arm bumped into it when removing the fan, badly rotted. The other was the one from the Expansion Tank to the top of the radiator. Other than that, been doing the AF every other oil change. PCV is what's kinda worrying me now, since oil level is slowly dropping and i have a "chirping" sounds from the Manifold.
Engine air filters only need replacement every 45,000 miles unless you live in a very dusty climate.
Anyone who lives in LA, can tell you that in the Summer, especially, air quality gets bad on the hottest of days. The air here can get dusty, and very smoggy some days. That's why I change it so often. Only things worrying me now are PCV system, suspension and body seals.
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I forgot to mention that I had replaced the belt and tensioner just recently. I was honestly reay lucky because when I removed the belt, it was cracked all around and I was surprised it held up all this time. I say that because I had that belt for around 20k miles now, probably got it all gunked up from when I did the VC gasket, and Radiator jobs. The hose from the thermo to the head was replaced as part of 2, and lemme tell you, it broke literally when my arm bumped into it when removing the fan, badly rotted. The other was the one from the Expansion Tank to the top of the radiator. Other than that, been doing the AF every other oil change. PCV is what's kinda worrying me now, since oil level is slowly dropping and i have a "chirping" sounds from the Manifold.
Engine air filters only need replacement every 45,000 miles unless you live in a very dusty climate.
Anyone who lives in LA, can tell you that in the Summer, especially, air quality gets bad on the hottest of days. The air here can get dusty, and very smoggy some days. That's why I change it so often. Only things worrying me now are PCV system, suspension and body seals.
Air filters work better when they are slightly dirty, they filter better.
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      09-16-2019, 05:31 AM   #24
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Because it eventually becomes somewhat clogged up. I am also not a believer in lifetime fluids, so when I drained and replaced the almost ten year old steering fluid (which was almost black, new it's dark green), it made sense (to me) to also replace the reservoir. Doing this tends to prolong the life of the steering fluid pump, which is more labor intensive and pricier to replace.
Eh, my car has 382,000 miles on it with the original PS pump and steering rack. I've drained and replaced the PS fluid twice, at 150K and 300K. The only thing I've done to the PS reservoir is replaced the o-ring on the cap, which prevents the fuzzy oil gunk every BMW with that reservoir gets. I've never seen any manufacturer include PS fluid as a routine maintenance item.

How do you know it becomes somewhat eventually clogged? Have you tested one, or opened an old reservoir up and inspected the filter? I think the filter getting clogged is just an assumption. Have you ever replaced the lifetime fuel filter in the fuel tank?
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      09-16-2019, 05:39 AM   #25
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Air filters work better when they are slightly dirty, they filter better.
When I bought my Z4 from CarJax, I discovered months later the airfilter had an old mouse nest in it. The filter was 1/2 clogged with shredded newspaper and cloth. When I changed to the new filter, I never noticed a difference nor an improvement in fuel mileage.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      09-16-2019, 10:58 PM   #26
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Because it eventually becomes somewhat clogged up. I am also not a believer in lifetime fluids, so when I drained and replaced the almost ten year old steering fluid (which was almost black, new it's dark green), it made sense (to me) to also replace the reservoir. Doing this tends to prolong the life of the steering fluid pump, which is more labor intensive and pricier to replace.
Eh, my car has 382,000 miles on it with the original PS pump and steering rack. I've drained and replaced the PS fluid twice, at 150K and 300K. The only thing I've done to the PS reservoir is replaced the o-ring on the cap, which prevents the fuzzy oil gunk every BMW with that reservoir gets. I've never seen any manufacturer include PS fluid as a routine maintenance item.

How do you know it becomes somewhat eventually clogged? Have you tested one, or opened an old reservoir up and inspected the filter? I think the filter getting clogged is just an assumption. Have you ever replaced the lifetime fuel filter in the fuel tank?
To test if it's clogged, the pump will grind and RPM will shudder when you turn the wheel, since it's being starved of fluid. Once the new fluid was in, grinding was gone completely. That's how I knew.
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      09-17-2019, 07:33 AM   #27
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My pump has a slight groan, the fluid is old, and the o-ring in the cap leaks. The tank is cheap enough that I figured I might as well just swap the tank instead of just the o-ring, and get a clean filter. Maybe a waste of 10 bucks, but *shrug*. I'll install it this week some time.

On mine, a bunch of suspension parts started going at 150k. Shocks and struts had been done at 130, but not the mounts... the upper mounts in the rear rusted out at 150 (new england car) but the rubber was also cracking and soft. Front upper and lower control arm bushings were also squishy, and were an easy swap. The control arms very noticeably tightened up the handling, and got rid of an annoying thump under hard braking.

I'm also thinking that now is a good time to start swapping out the 'lifetime' fluids... front and rear diff, transmission, transfer case, etc, so I'm getting started on those over the next few weeks. There's a bearing going in either the transmission or transfer case, and I'm hoping that in the process of replacing the oil i can figure out which one it is.
Leaving the original lifetime fluid in those probably didn't help the life of the bearing.

I also had to replace the front (xi) drive shaft around 130k. Not sure if yours is original, or if it is a common failure, but maybe try to wiggle those u-joints and check their condition the next time you're underneath it.
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      09-17-2019, 08:10 AM   #28
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I replaced my reservoir, but only because the o-ring had failed and my PS pump was noisy as hell. I completely agree that too many people blindly replace parts believing it necessary or somehow beneficial. In this case, I figured there was a decent chance the pump had began to mulch itself, so rather than just replace the o-ring, I’d do the whole reservoir for $15.

Turns out it’s actually my steering rack making noise, but that’s another story...

vilord : what kind of noise is your driveline making?
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      09-17-2019, 08:57 AM   #29
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I notice under mild deceleration (lift off the pedal), and especially around turns, there's a slight low pitch whine.

At first I thought it was a wheel bearing, as the sound is similar to that, but it sounds like it is coming from the front center driveline, not a wheel, and it doesn't make the same noise if i go around the same corners under acceleration.

The dual mass flywheel in my car is also starting to fail... which sounds like some sort of major engine problem at idle. I wonder if it could be related to that.
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      09-19-2019, 11:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
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I notice under mild deceleration (lift off the pedal), and especially around turns, there's a slight low pitch whine.

At first I thought it was a wheel bearing, as the sound is similar to that, but it sounds like it is coming from the front center driveline, not a wheel, and it doesn't make the same noise if i go around the same corners under acceleration.

The dual mass flywheel in my car is also starting to fail... which sounds like some sort of major engine problem at idle. I wonder if it could be related to that.
So you're hearing a noise, correct? Does it come with vibration that you can feel in the steering wheel?
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