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      01-17-2014, 11:29 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maniac0908
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Originally Posted by 335xi Kevo View Post
I got the oils on order, I WILL make a complete DIY when I do the entire drive train. Front, transfer case, rear, 6mt. Expect it next week depending on ECS.
Did he ever make the diy?
It's really easy and seems harder than it really is. In fact no different than changing the oil.

Open the fill plug with a 14mm hex and open end wrench. Open drain bolt and drain.

Just need a pump that's it. I was scared to attempt and realized its super easy and you don't need to remove anything at all.
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      01-18-2014, 12:41 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
It's really easy and seems harder than it really is. In fact no different than changing the oil.

Open the fill plug with a 14mm hex and open end wrench. Open drain bolt and drain.

Just need a pump that's it. I was scared to attempt and realized its super easy and you don't need to remove anything at all.
Are all the fluids the same for front, rear differentials and transfer case?
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      01-18-2014, 01:37 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Maniac0908
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Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
It's really easy and seems harder than it really is. In fact no different than changing the oil.

Open the fill plug with a 14mm hex and open end wrench. Open drain bolt and drain.

Just need a pump that's it. I was scared to attempt and realized its super easy and you don't need to remove anything at all.
Are all the fluids the same for front, rear differentials and transfer case?
No. Do not put anything in your transfer case other than BMW divider oil.

Buy it at the dealer it's like $55 for a quart but you only need .55 of a quart.

You can get it at getbmwparts.com it's $42. I get mine from Bloomfield BMW.

If you use any other oil the transfer case will fail. The differential is different you can use any brand you want. Most on this forum use redline 75w90 just like I do, front and rear.
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      01-18-2014, 02:12 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
No. Do not put anything in your transfer case other than BMW divider oil.

Buy it at the dealer it's like $55 for a quart but you only need .55 of a quart.

You can get it at getbmwparts.com it's $42. I get mine from Bloomfield BMW.

If you use any other oil the transfer case will fail. The differential is different you can use any brand you want. Most on this forum use redline 75w90 just like I do, front and rear.
Thanks man. I appreciate it
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      01-18-2014, 02:24 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
No. Do not put anything in your transfer case other than BMW divider oil.

Buy it at the dealer it's like $55 for a quart but you only need .55 of a quart.

You can get it at getbmwparts.com it's $42. I get mine from Bloomfield BMW.

If you use any other oil the transfer case will fail. The differential is different you can use any brand you want. Most on this forum use redline 75w90 just like I do, front and rear.
Hey buddy can you or someone here tell me the redline model number? I amazond it and i found two models 57904 and 58304. One seems to be regular and one says non limited slip, which is what i thought we had. Thanks
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      01-18-2014, 05:56 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maniac0908
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
No. Do not put anything in your transfer case other than BMW divider oil.

Buy it at the dealer it's like $55 for a quart but you only need .55 of a quart.

You can get it at getbmwparts.com it's $42. I get mine from Bloomfield BMW.

If you use any other oil the transfer case will fail. The differential is different you can use any brand you want. Most on this forum use redline 75w90 just like I do, front and rear.
Hey buddy can you or someone here tell me the redline model number? I amazond it and i found two models 57904 and 58304. One seems to be regular and one says non limited slip, which is what i thought we had. Thanks
Grab the 57 regular one.
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      01-29-2014, 12:42 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by pizza_party View Post

Edit: BTW, I have a 06/2006 build date, with no reset needed on the transfer case.
I have an 03/2006 build date. I can confirm no reset is needed, I drove the car 8 miles without it and didn't have any problems. BUT I did do the reset for two reasons, the fault code saying transfer case fluid will not clear without it & the calibration makes motors move and it resets it to the new fluid which I assume is better for the transfer case in the long run.
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      01-29-2014, 01:14 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by cband
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Originally Posted by pizza_party View Post

Edit: BTW, I have a 06/2006 build date, with no reset needed on the transfer case.
I have an 03/2006 build date. I can confirm no reset is needed, I drove the car 8 miles without it and didn't have any problems. BUT I did do the reset for two reasons, the fault code saying transfer case fluid will not clear without it & the calibration makes motors move and it resets it to the new fluid which I assume is better for the transfer case in the long run.
Did you use inpa?
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      02-03-2014, 07:25 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
It's really easy and seems harder than it really is. In fact no different than changing the oil.

Open the fill plug with a 14mm hex and open end wrench. Open drain bolt and drain.

Just need a pump that's it. I was scared to attempt and realized its super easy and you don't need to remove anything at all.
Assuming you had the car on a lift or ramps?
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      02-03-2014, 08:07 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by RSNGH View Post
Assuming you had the car on a lift or ramps?
Jack stands. I HIGHLY recommend checking the transfer case with a magnetic "level" the kind used by carpenters. The reason is if the car is leaning to the driver side you wont drain all the fluid out. Since there is only .55 quart in there, theres not much to play with. Check the level by placing it on the bottom of the transfer case horizontally driver to passenger door, raise the side thats lower one click on the jack stands, until its level. Do the same vertically front to rear bumper and make sure it is perfectly center.

If you are on a lift you dont have to worry about this step.
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      02-03-2014, 10:42 AM   #55
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I used ramps. Did all the work of getting fill and drain bolts off with just the ramps. Drained the fluid at an angle, then got out from under the car, used my jack to lift the rear to level off the car, let it drain a bit more. Removed back jack and then fill it up. Both bolts were not easy to get off, so I felt safer having all 4 tires on the ground.

I used 14mm hex bolt that I punched out from an allen socket. Was able to turn the fill plug just 1/6th of a turn at a time.

I reset the case using DIS.

Used a simple fluid pump to fill. Car seemed to take about 550 mL. Bought 1L at BMW dealer for $27.30, they pumped it from the shop into a jug.
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      02-22-2014, 02:55 AM   #56
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Can INPA be used to reset the transfer case? I reset the GS19 transmission adaptions but I dont know if that resets the transfer case.
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      02-25-2014, 12:08 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by WhiteFury View Post
Can INPA be used to reset the transfer case? I reset the GS19 transmission adaptions but I dont know if that resets the transfer case.
ever figure out how to reset? do i need to reset auto transmission after fluid change? or diffs?
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      03-02-2014, 12:12 AM   #58
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i have a brand new bottle of oem transfer case fluid with a new drain plug for sale
$45 shipped
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      03-02-2014, 01:05 AM   #59
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2 plugs or 1?
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      03-02-2014, 01:14 AM   #60
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u interested.

Last edited by ska///235i; 03-02-2014 at 01:30 AM.
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      03-09-2014, 08:19 PM   #61
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I'm 99% sure my system was not reset the first time I had my transfer case fluid changed. Reason being that my local shop did it after I bought them the BMW fluid. I just don't think they would know to reset it or even have the tools to do it.

The second time I had it done (I thought it was making noise. Turned out to be my winter tires...), the shop I went to would have had the tools, so it's possible they did. They said the fluid was low and looked terrible, that was a year after the first shop did it! Not having the first shop do it again. I had 98k miles on it then. I'm in the 100k club now and have had zero issues with my car
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      03-09-2014, 09:06 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccraig13 View Post
The second time I had it done (I thought it was making noise. Turned out to be my winter tires...), the shop I went to would have had the tools, so it's possible they did. They said the fluid was low and looked terrible, that was a year after the first shop did it! Not having the first shop do it again. I had 98k miles on it then. I'm in the 100k club now and have had zero issues with my car
Sounds like you got a "wall job" first time, not unusual unfortunately. Wall job is where they take your car, keep it overnight, park it next to the wall, and do nothing. Call you up say its done!

Old GF's brother had opened a car repair place. Going like gang busters. She took her car in for service there all the time from brand new.

She said she wanted to learn how to work on cars herself, so I said sure, let's do basic stuff, oil & filter, plugs, air filter etc. So we go get all the parts and get to work. Long story short obvious no one ever once touched the car. Oil looked horrible, air filter totally clogged, plugs nasty. I felt so bad for her, she was like crying as I'm putting in new plugs and stuff. It was awful.
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      03-09-2014, 09:56 PM   #63
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I am about to do mine tomorrow. First time 62k, now at 69.5k. I will change my trans fluid one more time and I just may stay with D6.

Trans adaptations must be reset after every fluid change. I believe the trans reset indeed does reset the transfer case also but I could be wrong.
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      03-09-2014, 10:01 PM   #64
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Sounds like you got a "wall job" first time, not unusual unfortunately. Wall job is where they take your car, keep it overnight, park it next to the wall, and do nothing. Call you up say its done!

Old GF's brother had opened a car repair place. Going like gang busters. She took her car in for service there all the time from brand new.

She said she wanted to learn how to work on cars herself, so I said sure, let's do basic stuff, oil & filter, plugs, air filter etc. So we go get all the parts and get to work. Long story short obvious no one ever once touched the car. Oil looked horrible, air filter totally clogged, plugs nasty. I felt so bad for her, she was like crying as I'm putting in new plugs and stuff. It was awful.
That's why a good mechanic is so damn valuable. I'll give you a quick taste.

Had my acuras timing belt snap 10k miles after it was changed. Since I was traveling for work I didn't have time to do it for myself. I live in Pittsburgh, belt jumped while driving to Jersey for work. What happened was they used an impact wrench on the timing belt tensioner bolt which is only suppose to be 19ft/lbs. The bolt sheared right off as I was driving and actually stayed in the enclosure, obviously valve and engine damage. When tearing the engine apart at an Acura dealership in NJ they pulled out the bolt head that sheared off and it had impact wrench marks all over it.

Acura dealership in NJ where I had the engine rebuilt was suppose to send the heads out to be decked. After getting the car back about 3k miles later, a valve dropped off into the combustion chamber and they admitted that they didn't need to send the heads out and possibly the valves weren't seated properly. After that, got a used engine and had a different acura dealership put in the used engine near my house in Pittsburgh. I thought the install went great, except about 1k miles later my transmission fried and was toast. I go to find, there was about 2quarts of transmission fluid in the car instead of the standard 8. I looked on the invoice and there was no charge for transmission fluid even though during an engine swap the car loses about 5 quarts of fluid. And so I asked about the fluid and how it's $20 a quart why it wasn't on the invoice and they stated they put in fluid and gave me the 5 quarts for free and that's why it didn't show up.

Lets just say after that the car was sold.
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      03-10-2014, 06:17 AM   #65
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That's why a good mechanic is so damn valuable. I'll give you a quick taste.

Had my acuras timing belt snap 10k miles after it was changed. Since I was traveling for work I didn't have time to do it for myself. I live in Pittsburgh, belt jumped while driving to Jersey for work. What happened was they used an impact wrench on the timing belt tensioner bolt which is only suppose to be 19ft/lbs. The bolt sheared right off as I was driving and actually stayed in the enclosure, obviously valve and engine damage. When tearing the engine apart at an Acura dealership in NJ they pulled out the bolt head that sheared off and it had impact wrench marks all over it.

Acura dealership in NJ where I had the engine rebuilt was suppose to send the heads out to be decked. After getting the car back about 3k miles later, a valve dropped off into the combustion chamber and they admitted that they didn't need to send the heads out and possibly the valves weren't seated properly. After that, got a used engine and had a different acura dealership put in the used engine near my house in Pittsburgh. I thought the install went great, except about 1k miles later my transmission fried and was toast. I go to find, there was about 2quarts of transmission fluid in the car instead of the standard 8. I looked on the invoice and there was no charge for transmission fluid even though during an engine swap the car loses about 5 quarts of fluid. And so I asked about the fluid and how it's $20 a quart why it wasn't on the invoice and they stated they put in fluid and gave me the 5 quarts for free and that's why it didn't show up.

Lets just say after that the car was sold.
Ah jeez, that sucks. Stories like that are why it's good to be your OWN good mechanic. I got a wall job while on the road coming home from a long ski trip when I was a kid. Alternator went "bad" Xmas eve middle of nowhere. Right next to a town. Limp off the interstate, gas station just closing. Guys does us a "favor" manages to ask us how much money we had. Like morons we tell him. Says he'll get his buddy to open the auto parts place Xmas eve get the part, fixed by morning. We stay overnight at local motel down the road.

Come back xmas day and pay him, Got home and was a little suspicious. No new alternator, same old dirty one. He had cleaned off the top but not underneath. What had happened was it was super cold out, alternator had frozen. He left it in his shop overnight started right up. Ripped us off for every penny we had. This was on an old VW rabbit, early 80's. Alternator never went bad again by the way.

I felt so stupid. Guy just stood there and lied to our faces, took all our money. ON CHRISTMAS! Vowed I'd never get screwed like that again if I could avoid it, started learning how to do stuff myself. I thought I knew stuff before that, clearly wrong.

Sadly in my experience since then techs have gotten dumber as the cars got more complicated, procedures more just swap stuff out til it works again. Lot of room for wall jobs and bill padding. And engine internals have got better, longer lasting, so the people with actual experience building engines and hard parts are fewer.

Last edited by ajsalida; 03-10-2014 at 09:57 AM.
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      03-12-2014, 11:36 AM   #66
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I think the more knowledgeable you get about your car the more you appreciate a good job and get angry when you don't get what you pay for. Ignorance is bliss. We bought a 2007 CPO in May 2010, and the Xenon Adaptive passenger's light kept aiming down at the ground. long story short BMW "fixed" it... I go to change the bulbs 1 month out of regular warranty (still covered under CPO extended warranty) and the headlight had been jammed back into place, the headlight tension plastic piece had been cracked from the get go. After 2 failures under warranty, I bring it back in and they say they won't cover it because it's electronics, and they want $1500 to replace the headlight. I fought with them to no end and they wouldn't budge. Finally wrote a "I'll never buy a BMW again" note to the dealership where we bought it and BMW NA and they replaced it free of charge.

Lately dealership in NJ charged us to tighten the parking brake and didn't do $hit... did it myself last night. It's not just a "bad" job, but blatent not doing work is what pisses me off. The car doesn't have any more problems than any other car except I think they assume since you own a BMW you don't know anything about cars so they hose you on maintenance.

Back on topic, would live to know if INPA can reset the transfer case interval, and/or all service intervals.
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