[messyhead86]

Hi

My 335d's DPF won't regenerate. It's got 163k miles on it. Up until now it's had no problems regenerating. I blanked the swirl flaps recently and changed the glow plugs and controller, along with the MAF sensor. This cleared the glow plug errors on cylinders 1 & 2 and all has been good for the last two months.

I've since had the increased emissions light come on two or three times. The car is getting up to temperature on the oil and coolant temperatures and daily has 2-4 hours motorway driving.

Since I put the intakes back on, it has started throwing a new code which is the throttle actuator. When touching the accelerator very gently there's a creaking sound which I'm guessing is related and potentially something I've managed to do. I've checked the electrical connector and it looks clean and seated well.

Normally the DPF would still regen though until the last two days, when the soot levels seem to be getting much higher than they have been much quicker than usual (up to 65g soot mass and 9g ash mass from 40g soot this morning; the highest previous I saw was 35g soot) with 7 regen attempts and the Particulate Filter System (480A) fault.

At 163000 is it likely the end of the DPF and time to get removed or could the throttle actuator fault be stopping the DPF from regenerating.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by messyhead86

Hi

My 335d's DPF won't regenerate. It's got 163k miles on it. Up until now it's had no problems regenerating. I blanked the swirl flaps recently and changed the glow plugs and controller, along with the MAF sensor. This cleared the glow plug errors on cylinders 1 & 2 and all has been good for the last two months.

I've since had the increased emissions light come on two or three times. The car is getting up to temperature on the oil and coolant temperatures and daily has 2-4 hours motorway driving.

Since I put the intakes back on, it has started throwing a new code which is the throttle actuator. When touching the accelerator very gently there's a creaking sound which I'm guessing is related and potentially something I've managed to do. I've checked the electrical connector and it looks clean and seated well.

Normally the DPF would still regen though until the last two days, when the soot levels seem to be getting much higher than they have been much quicker than usual (up to 65g soot mass and 9g ash mass from 40g soot this morning; the highest previous I saw was 35g soot) with 7 regen attempts and the Particulate Filter System (480A) fault.

At 163000 is it likely the end of the DPF and time to get removed or could the throttle actuator fault be stopping the DPF from regenerating.

Throttle valve fault prevents regeneration.
Also you have render the 480A code inactive before the car will regenerate again. This is supposedly done by driving at highway speed for 30 minutes... There is a bulletin about this floating around Search for M57 480A 481A and should pop up.

Soot enters the throttle electronics through the shaft internally and fails that way.

[Torqu3]

That's about the time a DPF starts having problems. Throttle actuator plays a small role in helping the engine warmup, but shouldn't affect regenerations. Looks like it's time for a filterectomy.

EDIT: Looks like I'm wrong. Never heard of a throttle valve causing regenerations to stop, but it wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong. It's always a good time to remove the filter though. Lots of power and MPG(or km/L) to be had with a removal.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

That's about the time a DPF starts having problems. Throttle actuator plays a small role in helping the engine warmup, but shouldn't affect regenerations. Looks like it's time for a filterectomy.

EDIT: Looks like I'm wrong. Never heard of a throttle valve causing regenerations to stop, but it wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong. It's always a good time to remove the filter though. Lots of power and MPG(or km/L) to be had with a removal.

The throttle valve restricts air coming through the intake (along with post injections) to increase the temperatures required for DPF regeneration.
Air system faults, throttle valve fault, some emissions faults incl temp sensors can all block regenerations.

[messyhead86]

Ok cheers. I did reset it whilst driving and within 20 miles the code came back with the regen not having been performed. I've got another 200 miles to drive tomorrow so I'll play around with it again and if it prompts it to go again.

Originally Posted by AlpineX

Throttle valve fault prevents regeneration.
Also you have render the 480A code inactive before the car will regenerate again. This is supposedly done by driving at highway speed for 30 minutes... There is a bulletin about this floating around Search for M57 480A 481A and should pop up.

Soot enters the throttle electronics through the shaft internally and fails that way.

[messyhead86]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

Looks like it's time for a filterectomy.

This may be an excuse for me to get it removed and remapped.

[messyhead86]

Originally Posted by AlpineX

The throttle valve restricts air coming through the intake (along with post injections) to increase the temperatures required for DPF regeneration.
Air system faults, throttle valve fault, some emissions faults incl temp sensors can all block regenerations.

I've also got Air Flow Sensor (3FF1) up and charge pressure deviation errors come up sporadically. I changed the MAF recently in the hope it'd clear this fault but it didn't make any difference. The throttle actuator has a lot of soot underneath it but oddly the intake had next to none when I removed it.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by AlpineX

The throttle valve restricts air coming through the intake (along with post injections) to increase the temperatures required for DPF regeneration.
Air system faults, throttle valve fault, some emissions faults incl temp sensors can all block regenerations.

Appreciate the knowledge. Thank you! It makes sense, I just haven't heard it before. I've been filterless for almost a year now, so I don't deal with these problems often.

Originally Posted by messyhead86

This may be an excuse for me to get it removed and remapped.

I'd remove and remap anyways. Makes for a better car.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by messyhead86

Ok cheers. I did reset it whilst driving and within 20 miles the code came back with the regen not having been performed. I've got another 200 miles to drive tomorrow so I'll play around with it again and if it prompts it to go again.

You still need to have a good throttle valve for the regeneration to occur. Sounds like you might have a boost leak somewhere. Possible one of the charge pipe seals? I think the first method here is to: follow the soot or sound, check connections you've touched recently.
When the MAF fails, the car creates substitute readings from the intake air temp sensor and MAP sensor (?regurgitated from memory). Replacing the MAF also calls to reset air mass adaptations, I have seen it recommended to use OEM MAF for replacement.

163k is pretty good mileage out of the DPF on that car. Figure out your air mass fault and fix your throttle body

[messyhead86]

Originally Posted by AlpineX

You still need to have a good throttle valve for the regeneration to occur. Sounds like you might have a boost leak somewhere. Possible one of the charge pipe seals? I think the first method here is to: follow the soot or sound, check connections you've touched recently.
When the MAF fails, the car creates substitute readings from the intake air temp sensor and MAP sensor (?regurgitated from memory). Replacing the MAF also calls to reset air mass adaptations, I have seen it recommended to use OEM MAF for replacement.

163k is pretty good mileage out of the DPF on that car. Figure out your air mass fault and fix your throttle body

Cheers for the advice. I posted a list of codes that came up a few weeks ago and people suggested a boost leak. It'd also explain the rushing sound accelerating under load sometimes.

The clip on the pipe which attaches to the throttle actuator, where there is soot around, is bent and the pipe feels slightly loose. I'll get another clip and see if that makes any difference. There's also a small amount of oil on the red intake pipe which I've been meaning to replace so I may have to get around to doing that this weekend.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by messyhead86

Cheers for the advice. I posted a list of codes that came up a few weeks ago and people suggested a boost leak. It'd also explain the rushing sound accelerating under load sometimes.

The clip on the pipe which attaches to the throttle actuator, where there is soot around, is bent and the pipe feels slightly loose. I'll get another clip and see if that makes any difference. There's also a small amount of oil on the red intake pipe which I've been meaning to replace so I may have to get around to doing that this weekend.

If you have a bent clip and excessive soot deposit outside of the connection, I would assume that to be culprit #1.

[ptpending]

you should also diagnose your main thermostat, egr thermostat and gearbox heat exchanger thermostat because if your engine coolant temp do not reach 75C regeneration will not be initiated
these parts are usually last 3-4 year after manufacture day and then start to open earlier

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by ptpending

you should also diagnose your main thermostat, egr thermostat and gearbox heat exchanger thermostat because if your engine coolant temp do not reach 75C regeneration will not be initiated
these parts are usually last 3-4 year after manufacture day and then start to open earlier

Some BMW docs state the 75c for regeneration though in real life it is actually able to initiate regen at even lower temps (down to 60?). Any prolonged periods under 75c really start that snowball rolling toward somewhere you don't want.

OP did state earlier that the engine had been running at temp.

[smass]

ISTA+ has a nice test routine for the throttle. It will open and close the valve so you can visually determine if it is working.

[messyhead86]

Originally Posted by ptpending

you should also diagnose your main thermostat, egr thermostat and gearbox heat exchanger thermostat because if your engine coolant temp do not reach 75C regeneration will not be initiated
these parts are usually last 3-4 year after manufacture day and then start to open earlier

Unfortunately after checking the engine isn't running anything above 75c. I changed the egr stat last year but left the other as it was. I may get an independent specialist to do this as it looks fairly in depth.

The throttle actuator is dead though. I disconnected it and then took the cover off the actuator and there was a fair bit of oil inside the casing which houses the control board and gears. The gears are intact but the PCB being sat in oil for a prolonged period has likely damaged it. I had the intake off just before the code was thrown, so it's likely tipping it upside at some point caused the oil to get onto the board.

I tried cleaning with electrical contact cleaner, leaving it for a few hours to fully dry and heating gently with a heat gun to remove any leftover moisture. When reconnected, the throttle valve operated and fully closed, shutting off the intake air flow and shutting the engine off. I left it off over night and then reconnected again the next day and it's doing nothing.

I've another on the way so will get it fitted this weekend. I'm hoping the valve is stopping the engine from getting up to temperature, or otherwise I'll have to get the second thermostat done.

[335dlci]

What's a egr stat?

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

What's a egr stat?

wow, LCI cars with M57N2 do not have that thermostat, great

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by messyhead86

I've another on the way so will get it fitted this weekend. I'm hoping the valve is stopping the engine from getting up to temperature, or otherwise I'll have to get the second thermostat done.

The primary thermostat is keeping your temps down. You will still regenerate for a while but your engine is going to be spending most or all time in warmup mode (over-injecting and working your glow system), and regenerations will be harder to satisfy prerequirements.

Keeping you from regenerating now is that throttle body and mass air fault...

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

What's a egr stat?

Earlier cars around the world had additional thermostats in the EGR system. USA cars do not have this.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by ptpending

wow, LCI cars with M57N2 do not have that thermostat, great

Yeah that's why I was like huh .

[jab64000]

My car was showing the high DPf alarm. The garage checked it and found 2 faulty glow plugs and a faulty glow plug module. Those were changed out and it still wouldn’t regenerate even after resetting and giving the car a “Terraclean” and taking it for long motorway runs. I don’t think it was getting hot enough when the alarm was clear. I Checked the standing alarms and the 408a was still there. I ended up going for a run with the mechanic today and he kept on resetting the 408a while I drove. I could see that the car was trying to regenerate as the fuel gauge was dropping all the time. After a few minutes it carried out a regenerate and what a difference. The temperature dropped from over 590 down to a much better 290 deg c. I gave it another 30 miles and the car was driving well with no alarms coming in. I think the glow plugs were the original fault, but the dpf had clogged up so it was a bit of a vicious circle. The log said it hadn’t regenerated for 1700miles , but now saying it completed one 30miles ago. Anyway - here is hoping

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by jab64000

My car was showing the high DPf alarm. The garage checked it and found 2 faulty glow plugs and a faulty glow plug module. Those were changed out and it still wouldn’t regenerate even after resetting and giving the car a “Terraclean” and taking it for long motorway runs. I don’t think it was getting hot enough when the alarm was clear. I Checked the standing alarms and the 408a was still there. I ended up going for a run with the mechanic today and he kept on resetting the 408a while I drove. I could see that the car was trying to regenerate as the fuel gauge was dropping all the time. After a few minutes it carried out a regenerate and what a difference. The temperature dropped from over 590 down to a much better 290 deg c. I gave it another 30 miles and the car was driving well with no alarms coming in. I think the glow plugs were the original fault, but the dpf had clogged up so it was a bit of a vicious circle. The log said it hadn’t regenerated for 1700miles , but now saying it completed one 30miles ago. Anyway - here is hoping

If you haven't already, monitor your engine temperature or coolant temperature while you are driving. If you are not reaching at least 85°C then the car will have a hard time regenerating and may not even attempt it if you are below 80°C. If that is the case, you need to replace the thermostat. I had the exact same warning as you and I replaced the thermostat and cleared the codes a couple times on the freeway and I have not had the codes come back. It's been two years since then. Happy to walk you through that replacement if you need it