[DR-JEKL]

https://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/Dry%...%20cooling.htm

These guys are close to you mate

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

https://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/Dry%...%20cooling.htm

These guys are close to you mate

Thanks for the info Shane

[Coupes33]

I purchased 2kg of pellet dry ice from Artic Ice, Acacia Ridge today ($14) and tried my IAT reduction kit to see what temperature the radiator got down to with a cold engine. I just filled the insulated container with dry ice and turned on the pump to circulate the water. The radiator was 33C and didn't drop. The temperature inside the container was -31C. I disconnected a hose from the radiator and there was no flow. The water in the 900mm of coiled copper pipe in the container had frozen. Next plan is to replace the water with anti freeze which is good for -40C and see how that goes. I have been waiting 1.5hrs for the dry ice in the container to evaporate so I can try the anti freeze. I don't mine waiting because this indicates the dry ice will last for a while. A hot engine bay will obviously reduce the time. I will keep updating the info as I progress the testing.

[juld0zer]

This might sound dumb but would the carbon dioxide being sucked in affect combustion?

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

This might sound dumb but would the carbon dioxide being sucked in affect combustion?

The dry ice is in a insulated container so the evaporation rate is very low. Even with the top of the container removed, it took 4 hours for all of the dry ice to evaporate. At this slow rate, the amount of carbon dioxide released is minimal.

[Coupes33]

Update. I modified the hosing to reduce the resistance on the pump. Also, I filled the system with anti freeze to prevent the fluid freezing in the container holding the dry ice.









Once the unit was installed back into the car, I took some temperature readings to see how effective the unit was. Initially, with the engine cold and no dry ice in the container, I started the pump and took a temperature reading of the radiator. The temperature was 29C.



Then I filled the container with dry ice pellets and left it run for about 10mins. I took another temperature reading of the radiator and it had dropped to 13C.



I took the car for a 15 min run and carried out a data log. The IAT sat at 82F. The ambient temperature was 23C (74F). Without the dry ice, the IAT was 92F. After I returned from the run, I checked the container and it was still half full of dry ice. Although, there appears to be some improvement (about 10F), the thermodynamics is still an issue. For heat to be removed from the incoming air, heat is transferred from the air into the anti freeze at the radiator. This causes the returning anti freeze to increase in temperature which when it gets back to the dry ice container begins to slowly melt the dry ice due to another transfer of heat energy. If this heat transfer is more efficient at the radiator than it is at the dry ice container than the anti freeze temperature will continue to increase and the system becomes less effective. Eventually, all temperatures will be the same as the incoming air plus the effects of the engine bay heat. For the temperature of the anti freeze at the radiator to remain low, the dry ice container would need to be more efficient (larger) so that the heat transfer at that point didn't raise the temperature of the outgoing fluid. More thought required.

[Brule]

Have you thought about spraying water only through a meth kit? Or anything against it? 2 devils own .1 nozzles got my iat down 10-15F average in 30odd degree ambients

That will drop your iat another 10f.

[Aus335iguy]

Just a thought. There's a lot of area where hot air from the engine is getting to the dci's. I reckon closing off the system so that the only air getting to them is the flow you've just cooled could help? A stock air box with your water to air exchange would be a cheap test of that theory.

[mikenazz]

great engineering work i too struggle with high AT. pods soak up the heat too. im trying to route them behind the bumper somehow or even spray water on the ic by diverting the headlight washers.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Brule

Have you thought about spraying water only through a meth kit? Or anything against it? 2 devils own .1 nozzles got my iat down 10-15F average in 30odd degree ambients

That will drop your iat another 10f.

I have had no experience with meth kits but I assume you are spraying the water onto your IC. Does any of that water fall onto the ground? I am just thinking that at the drags any water dripping onto the track will result in officials stopping you racing.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Just a thought. There's a lot of area where hot air from the engine is getting to the dci's. I reckon closing off the system so that the only air getting to them is the flow you've just cooled could help? A stock air box with your water to air exchange would be a cheap test of that theory.

I agree the engine bay heat will not be helping with the IAT. Prior to the current DCI set up, I had a modified OEM air box with an added pod filter but it didn't give enough filter area for the engine to breathe efficiently at full boost at high revs. The current DCI certainly is less restrictive but as you pointed out is effected by the heat generated by the engine. I will look into whether there is any way of further insulating the filters.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by mikenazz

great engineering work i too struggle with high AT. pods soak up the heat too. im trying to route them behind the bumper somehow or even spray water on the ic by diverting the headlight washers.

Yes, there is not much room to play with in the these engine bays. I have been investigating various ways for a while now but haven't got the answer yet.

[Brule]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

I have had no experience with meth kits but I assume you are spraying the water onto your IC. Does any of that water fall onto the ground? I am just thinking that at the drags any water dripping onto the track will result in officials stopping you racing.

Spray inside. After intercooler or chargepipe.
Helps with detonation and cools better than methanol or 5050 water meth mix.
No downsides besides having to fill it up.

[Coupes33]

Built another intake duct which includes a fan and more heat shielding. The objective of the fan is to suck in cooler air to the air filters while waiting in the staging lanes and at the start of a run. Currently, when the vehicle is motionless, the temperature of the air being sucked into the engine is the temperature of the air in the engine bay. With this fan running, air from outside the engine bay is being blown over the filters. In winter, this can be 15 -18C (60-65F) which is better than 50C (120F).

[Socket]

Great work Coupes.... subbed

[kookie]

That shield is a brilliant idea. The VAG platform uses it with foam to create a "sealed" box when the hood is shut.

First time i've seen something like it on the n54. Looking forward to the progress. So.... When is the first kit ready?

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Socket

Great work Coupes.... subbed

Thanks Socks. I will do some testing once I get the diff back in the car and back on the road.

[Coupes33]

Some info on the blower fan that I have used.

[JB4-335]

Cool project.

Back in the day I ran a custom fabbed pipe off the two inlet tubes into one big 3.5" K&N filter. At the top of the 3.5" section before the filter I had a meth bung adapter welded and would spray freezing water from a tank full of ice and water. IAT reduces drastically. Gotta be careful not to hydrolock the motor though. Was running meth through the CP too.

Lost all the pics and logs as my laptop is was stolen.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by JB4-335

Cool project.

Back in the day I ran a custom fabbed pipe off the two inlet tubes into one big 3.5" K&N filter. At the top of the 3.5" section before the filter I had a meth bung adapter welded and would spray freezing water from a tank full of ice and water. IAT reduces drastically. Gotta be careful not to hydrolock the motor though. Was running meth through the CP too.

Lost all the pics and logs as my laptop is was stolen.

Genius JB

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by JB4-335

Cool project.

Back in the day I ran a custom fabbed pipe off the two inlet tubes into one big 3.5" K&N filter. At the top of the 3.5" section before the filter I had a meth bung adapter welded and would spray freezing water from a tank full of ice and water. IAT reduces drastically. Gotta be careful not to hydrolock the motor though. Was running meth through the CP too.

Lost all the pics and logs as my laptop is was stolen.

Yes, the risk of a hydrolock would be an issue if something malfunctioned with the injection system. Sounds like it worked ok for you. It would be good to try these changes while on a dyno to see what, if any, power increases they make.

[JB4-335]

Originally Posted by Socket

Genius JB

I, like coupes got obsessed with IAT reduction. My spare parts box was pull of at least 30-40 various meth nozzles, over 100 different types of line fittings, 4 meth pumps and at least 20 metres of meth tubing.

I also tested with two nozzles on each side spraying the IC too. It worked really well. Logs all showed good IAT reduction on long pulls with no heat soak.