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      12-11-2018, 07:51 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllSic_Design View Post
I'd recommend saving a little more and buying a GOOD set of speakers(not coaxial), but that's just me/mho.
Well, what kind of GOOD speakers are you thinking of? Ill take anything into consideration, so please elaborate!
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      12-11-2018, 07:52 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The hi fi speakers are 2 ohm that means 50 watts at 4 ohm rating
is something like 75 at 2 ohms. That being said I ran my Hi Fi of
the xd 600 for a few days and the rears are still stock . So that is running
them at 100 watts. If you don't slam the volume you probably won't
have a problem. Technics quick and dirty upgrade for the Hi Fi system
was to just put in a an xd 600 and call it a day.
So you are saying I could run the current HiFi speakers with just that Alpine amp? And I dont need to upgrade the speakers?
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      12-11-2018, 09:35 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.f.leonard View Post
If coaxial speakers provide sound better than the stock HiFi at all, in any way, then thats what I want to go with due to their price. And just by looking at them they look like they will perform better. So unless there is any big reason that I shouldn't I believe the set up I will go with is the 4 channel Alpine amp as mentioned previously and then those Kicker 4" coaxial speakers. Once installed I will take out the factory tweeters as they will more than likely not be needed any longer. Then I will have to figure out an upgrade for the woofers under the seats unless they can handle 50 watts a piece.
You mean reasons besides the better on-axis imaging the door tweeter location provides, the less cancellation of sound waves; the less muddling of off-axis sound. There's a lot of reasons just in car structure alone that implies you should have a separate tweeter in general.

Now if you were in a base system and you didn't want to spend money on new sails, I kinda get it since it's still an evolution. Keep in mind your sails will now be empty -- so the odd look there unless you already have the version with the foam backing behind the grill. Hey, here's a poor plug: I have some stock non-tweeter sails if you want to buy them haha.

And remember that mid-to-lower register, direction gets less important as you go into lower Hz. So the underseats and the door need less on-axis than the tweeter.

To your other query, IIRC a lot of people used to say "push the underseat till it blows," because it sounds decent once it's amplified. Try that out first and maybe save a few bucks. You blow them or want to upgrade later, hey, the wiring is already there.
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      12-11-2018, 09:41 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by j.f.leonard View Post
If coaxial speakers provide sound better than the stock HiFi at all, in any way, then thats what I want to go with due to their price. And just by looking at them they look like they will perform better. So unless there is any big reason that I shouldn't I believe the set up I will go with is the 4 channel Alpine amp as mentioned previously and then those Kicker 4" coaxial speakers. Once installed I will take out the factory tweeters as they will more than likely not be needed any longer. Then I will have to figure out an upgrade for the woofers under the seats unless they can handle 50 watts a piece.
You mean reasons besides the better on-axis imaging the door tweeter location provides, the less cancellation of sound waves; the less muddling of off-axis sound. There's a lot of reasons just in car structure alone that implies you should have a separate tweeter in general.

Now if you were in a base system and you didn't want to spend money on new sails, I kinda get it since it's still an evolution. Keep in mind your sails will now be empty -- so the odd look there unless you already have the version with the foam backing behind the grill. Hey, here's a poor plug: I have some stock non-tweeter sails if you want to buy them haha.

And remember that mid-to-lower register, direction gets less important as you go into lower Hz. So the underseats and the door need less on-axis than the tweeter.

To your other query, IIRC a lot of people used to say "push the underseat till it blows," because it sounds decent once it's amplified. Try that out first and maybe save a few bucks. You blow them or want to upgrade later, hey, the wiring is already there.
I kinda get what you are saying, and it does make sense for each speaker to be their own "thing", but I cant seem to find individual mids for a decent price. If I have to, I might go for the Fischer kit that comes with 2 mids and 2 tweeters and 2 crossovers... its just $250 and thats more than Id like to spend. Ive also heard they arnt an easy install. Any experience with those?
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      12-11-2018, 11:44 PM   #49
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Google BSW speaker install video.
I can't seem to copy the link and post it.
Google BSW STAGE 1 speaker install guide.



Also there are procedures in the DIY section.

Install procedures
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=door+wires
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911595
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571803
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+install

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e90
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...DIY+door+panel
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Panel-Removal
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553388
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=speaker
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635672

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429

Last edited by ctuna; 12-11-2018 at 11:57 PM..
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      12-12-2018, 12:17 AM   #50
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Ive seen the install of those but I was saying the Match by Fischer kit is apparently not an easy install because the kit doesn't come with connectors and stuff like that.

Anyway, to wrap this up...

In conclusion, would you guys recommend me upgrading the amp first with the Alpine amp I mentioned and cutting out the rear deck speakers? Or should I go with speakers first and then the amp, or both at the same time? Also, you guys said not to get coaxial speakers so I will see what I can do on that and suggestions would be awesome. I will change my budget to $300 or less for the speakers since the Match kit is $250 for 2 mids, 2 tweeters and crossovers. Here is a link to that kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_97542C...SABEgJyVPD_BwE

If I should get that kit and the alpine amp let me know as that seems like a good setup (not including upgraded under seat speakers).

Thanks for all the help thus far
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      12-12-2018, 01:19 AM   #51
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I would say the amp will make the most difference.
Also you will need the amp to drive those speakers
as they are 4 ohm.
Never saw a link to it.
Speaker connectors should be easy to attach.


connectors
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ower+Connector
connectors1
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19

Last edited by ctuna; 12-12-2018 at 01:26 AM..
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      12-12-2018, 08:39 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
I would say the amp will make the most difference.
Also you will need the amp to drive those speakers
as they are 4 ohm.
Never saw a link to it.
Speaker connectors should be easy to attach.


connectors
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...8;postcount=19
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ower+Connector
connectors1
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...8;postcount=19
Okay so that Match speaker kit and the Alpine 4 channel is the way to go for sure? Heres links to both for reference as I do not want to make the wrong choice:

Amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRV...SABEgLz3vD_BwE

Match speaker kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_97542C...SABEgKiGfD_BwE

Let me know for sure if this is the way to go! Thanks for all the help and advice!
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      12-12-2018, 12:43 PM   #53
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That amp does not have eq on paired channel basis .
Which means you can't set the eq between the floors
and doors to the proper levels .

The PDX series in the Alpine was mentioned here.
The is a bottom of the line amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136994...0aAhsvEALw_wcB

Also you can probably find this stuff cheaper elsewhere.

A quick search produced this

https://creativeaudio.net/jx400-4d-k...AaAjkvEALw_wcB

Last edited by ctuna; 12-12-2018 at 12:52 PM..
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      12-12-2018, 01:29 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
That amp does not have eq on paired channel basis .
Which means you can't set the eq between the floors
and doors to the proper levels .

The PDX series in the Alpine was mentioned here.
The is a bottom of the line amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136994...0aAhsvEALw_wcB

Also you can probably find this stuff cheaper elsewhere.

A quick search produced this

https://creativeaudio.net/jx400-4d-k...AaAjkvEALw_wcB
I like the look/ price of that JL amp but it puts out 70 watts rms, so would I still be able to use it? The other one put out 50 rms. Also, those match speakers can only handle 60 watts rms.
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      12-12-2018, 01:37 PM   #55
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Its a good match for the door speakers you are getting .
It's not a large difference.
The amp you picked is not a good setup for trying to do
to different sized speaker sets since you can't set the equalization
between the sets.
Jl audio stuff is just way better than the alpine or pioneer especially
at the low end. And its known to work off the stock head unit.
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      12-12-2018, 01:38 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Its a good match for the door speakers you are getting .
The amp you picked is not a good setup for trying to do
to different sized speaker sets since you can't set the equalization
between the sets.
Jl audio stuff is just way better than the alpine or pioneer especially
at the low end. And its known to work off the stock head unit.
Gotcha. So you think that exact JL amp and the speaker kit would be a good setup?
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      12-12-2018, 01:42 PM   #57
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You could look around some more for a amp but it must
be able to do eq on a per channel pair basis and have compatible
inputs for the output of the head unit.
JL audio is a really solid amp company .
I trust there stuff .

I would try to get the complete match set the underseats
are important for mid range .

Last edited by ctuna; 12-12-2018 at 02:11 PM..
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      12-12-2018, 01:50 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
You could look around some more for a amp but it must
be able to do eq on a per channel pair basis and have compatible
inputs for the output of the head unit.
JL audio is a really solid amp company .
I trust there stuff .
Okay cool. Well I like JL as well so if that amp is exactly what I need ill just go for it
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      12-12-2018, 04:12 PM   #59
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Also, Im assuming I wont need any sort of electrical upgrades to supply 2 amps? I already have a 2,000 watt amp pushing 700rms to each sub and I havent had any issues, but that JL amp takes 4 gauge wire which leads me to believe it might be power hungry... it should be fine but if not, please let me know!
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      12-12-2018, 05:13 PM   #60
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Do you think your 2000 watt amp really gets close to using
2000 watts. I know a lot of the cheap amps claim these high
numbers to suck people in . Really all you need is 300 to 600 watts
to do a decent job with subwoofers.
I guess you would want more if you are trying to offend people.

Yes you would might have problems above 2000 watts.

If you really already drawing .

You are replacing the stock amp with another 200 watt amp so
200 - 200 = 0 change. or very little change.
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      12-12-2018, 05:19 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Do you think your 2000 watt amp really gets close to using
2000 watts. I know a lot of the cheap amps claim these high
numbers to suck people in . Really all you need is 300 to 600 watts
to do a decent job with subwoofers.
I guess you would want more if you are trying to offend people.

Yes you would might have problems above 2000 watts.

If you really already drawing .

You are replacing the stock amp with another 200 watt amp so
200 - 200 = 0 change. or very little change.
The amp I have is rated at 2,000 watts but im almost positive its really only pushing 650 watts or so to each sub (Alpine type R 12s). Anyway, okay Ill take your word for it and order the JL JX400/4D amp and the Match BMW speaker kit very soon. Thanks for all your help, its very appreciated!
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      12-13-2018, 12:41 AM   #62
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just sayin'....

JL Audio XD600/6 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1557536
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      12-13-2018, 07:03 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
I know and Id love to have it along with these speakers but being 17 its kinda hard to come across $550 for an amp and another $250 for speakers at the same time. If worst comes to worst ill get another 2 channel amp later on to be able to power all speakers.
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      12-13-2018, 09:05 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Actually I just noticed you are trying to sell yours for $300. Id buy it if I could but I dont get paid until the 23rd haha. Good deal though
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      12-13-2018, 10:55 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.f.leonard View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Actually I just noticed you are trying to sell yours for $300. Id buy it if I could but I dont get paid until the 23rd haha. Good deal though
Not mine, but it's a fair deal.
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      01-05-2019, 04:48 PM   #66
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So I finally got the match component speakers and got those installed today, and they seem a little quieter than the old ones. Im assuming this is because the new speakers are 4 ohm speakers, and the old stock ones were 2 ohm. I also got the JL JX400/4d amp which is rated 70 watts at 4 ohms, and 100 at 2 ohms (not installed yet). So, when I install the amp it should make the new speakers sound like they are supposed to. My question now is, should I leave the under-seat subs not powered since I have 2 aftermarket 12s? The rear speakers you guys said didn't produce much sound sounded very loud today, so Im thinking maybe I should use the 4 channels I have for the new front speakers and the rear deck speakers. Does that sound right? Thanks!
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