[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by feuer

Can’t believe shop remove the trunk liner to work on the rear shocks.

Why not, more time on the books to charge more lol

[nsjames]

rebuilt a pressure washer pump. discovered that the key to foam cannon being awesome is a burly pressure washer.
The more pressure you feed it the better it is.

edit:
this is half the amount of soap I used with the previous 2300 PSI unit and you get more foam.

[bmw335ie90]

Originally Posted by feuer

Can't believe shop remove the trunk liner to work on the rear shocks.

How else do you get in there, or maybe you're not referring to the side panels?

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Got an alignment. I wonder if I should start doing this every 6k miles. I usually do it when the steering wheel is off.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Regarding clay lube, stop wasting your money on dedicated clay lube. Instead, buy yourself Optimum No Rinse (ONR), dilute it in a spray bottle and use as clay lube.

ONR is one of those products that can be used literally in any application. I use it as a interior cleaner, i add it to my wash bucket, i use it as a window cleaner. It's AMZAING as a window cleaner, literally zero streaks.
Product is highly concentrated so a 1L bottle lasts forever!

Is this the ONR "wash and shine?" Instructions say 1oz to TWO GALLONS of water. At that rate, a $17 32oz bottle yields 64 GALLONS of lube / quick detailer! I'm getting it.

[AlpineBoost]

Got rear ended a few weeks back, so today I drove to BMW of South Atl to pick up some parts.

[PJLux]

This just came in the mail, from Lebanon no less lol.

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by feuer

Can't believe shop remove the trunk liner to work on the rear shocks.

Don't u kinda hav to? Unless u want it to be bent up

[ryan stewart]

New radiator. Just decided since I replaced everything else no reason for it to be the reason to strand me on a road trip. Also cleaned up the coolant residue from the bottle that leaked.

Not bad for 13 years and 160k miles.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by feuer

Can’t believe shop remove the trunk liner to work on the rear shocks.

Because thats how you do it?

I mean technically you could probably just remove those two rear access panels and reach up but then youd be stuck turning a socket like 3 degrees at a time. Its much easier to just remove all of those little plastic wedge rivet things, pull the lower panel, then yoink the side panels. Its not that much work. And then you can reach the rear mounting easy and zip it off.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Because thats how you do it?

I mean technically you could probably just remove those two rear access panels and reach up but then youd be stuck turning a socket like 3 degrees at a time. Its much easier to just remove all of those little plastic wedge rivet things, pull the lower panel, then yoink the side panels. Its not that much work. And then you can reach the rear mounting easy and zip it off.

I think he means fully removing the trunk liner. You can remove a few clips and peel it back to get to the shocks.

You also could cut a little access hole, but ehhhhh....I dunno...

Edit: That emote was a phone typo. My bad. It's right where my thumb is when I want to hit the comment box.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

I think he means fully removing the trunk liner. You can remove a few clips and peel it back to get to the shocks.

You also could cut a little access hole, but ehhhhh....I dunno...

And my point stands. Its stupid easy to remove the bottom, which you need to do to remove the sides. And you can try and bend back and fight the sides or you can take literally like 3 minutes to remove the liner. Meaning you wont damage the liner and arent wasting time trying to fight it while R&Ring the shock. And cutting a hole is trashy and I would be livid if any mech thought that was a good idea.

Im just pushing back from the idea that they are doing it "just to get book hours." If you want to cut a hole that is on you, its your car. But then DIY, lets not make fun of a mechanic for doing it the right way.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

And my point stands. Its stupid easy to remove the bottom, which you need to do to remove the sides. And you can try and bend back and fight the sides or you can take literally like 3 minutes to remove the liner. Meaning you wont damage the liner and arent wasting time trying to fight it while R&Ring the shock. And cutting a hole is trashy and I would be livid if any mech thought that was a good idea.

Im just pushing back from the idea that they are doing it "just to get book hours." If you want to cut a hole that is on you, its your car. But then DIY, lets not make fun of a mechanic for doing it the right way.

I just replaced rear shocks last week. It's literally 10 minutes of extra work to remove then replace the entire trunk liner (bottom and sides). I used a ratcheting wrench on the shock nut and appreciated all of the space to work. It's tricky to keep it on the nut while holding the shock shaft in place, especially as you tighten it more and the nut lowers below the body cutout.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I just replaced rear shocks last week. It's literally 10 minutes of extra work to remove then replace the entire trunk liner (bottom and sides). I used a ratcheting wrench on the shock nut and appreciated all of the space to work. It's tricky to keep it on the nut while holding the shock shaft in place, especially as you tighten it more and the nut lowers below the body cutout.

That is one of the few jobs I actually use my ratcheting wrenches on. I'd argue it's even worth buying one for it, makes it like 8 seconds to zip that off

[feuer]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Why not, more time on the books to charge more lol

lol exactly! But you got it wrong. Goal is not to remove but charge for it!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by bmw335ie90

How else do you get in there, or maybe you're not referring to the side panels?

There are black plastic push in rivets that you remove and fold trunk liner down. Is dumb to remove something you absolutely don’t have too.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Because thats how you do it?

I mean technically you could probably just remove those two rear access panels and reach up but then youd be stuck turning a socket like 3 degrees at a time. Its much easier to just remove all of those little plastic wedge rivet things, pull the lower panel, then yoink the side panels. Its not that much work. And then you can reach the rear mounting easy and zip it off.

No. Not how you do it. No need to remove the liners. Read reply above.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by feuer

There are black plastic push in rivets that you remove and fold trunk liner down. Is dumb to remove something you absolutely don’t have too.

Those are the same rivets to remove the liner, but I can see how folding the liner sides down would work just fine.

I'd consider that next time I have to do rear shock work. This is the second time I've done E90 shocks and removed the entire liner both times, appreciating the extra space to work and not having to worry about folding or breaking the liner. It was nice to have all the extra space, and I got to vacuum some debris out.

[Mike K]

Recently acquired e91 got it’s legally required front plate without drilling those nasty mounting holes. It a Bell chrome frame and easily mounts underneath with small lag screws. Nice and firm too.

I added a foam tape strip behind my plate frame to stop possible scratches. I carry the allen wrench in the glovebox so I can quickly yank the plate at a car wash. There’s a thread on here about the Bell mounting unit which I found for under $15.00 The link is below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30285276097...c2d71a1397aaa1

[mapleleaf1773]

I went from wood interior today, to 3M dark brushed aluminum. It looks awesome.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Recently acquired e91 got it's legally required front plate without drilling those nasty mounting holes. It a Bell chrome frame and easily mounts underneath with small lag screws. Nice and firm too.

I added a foam tape strip behind my plate frame to stop possible scratches. I carry the allen wrench in the glovebox so I can quickly yank the plate at a car wash. There's a thread on here about the Bell mounting unit which I found for under $15.00 The link is below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30285276097...c2d71a1397aaa1

I have this as well. For both a clean look and rust prevention (it will rust) I paint matched it. No complaints! And I also used foam on the back of the plate lol

[E92inNC]

Originally Posted by mapleleaf1773

I went from wood interior today, to 3M dark brushed aluminum. It looks awesome.

Looks awesome, I gotta look into changing my wood trim too