[Hotter]

Hi, I am searching for logic7 amplifier 20pin wiring diagrams.
All I found is this:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ier/1VnYjLzxpT
Something is wrong because here is 40pin not 20pin... Where could I find good pinout?

P.S.
I found only this seems to be helpful.

[ctuna]

http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt

Don't know how you can compare the two the Hi Fi connector is totaly different in every
way from the Logic 7 connector.


Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
Most
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760
https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222

Also
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Do a search for Logic 7 or top hi fi in the above.
With your appropriate chassis and model year.

[Hotter]

Thanks ctuna. This page seems to be really helpful:
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
However it does not contain Power wiring information (I want retrofit logic 7). Would it be ok to power logic 7 from fuse box in glove compartment?
Connecting the wire to F15 with 20A fuse?

Strangely I cant find useful information in
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
All I find its called code A18 amp (top-hifi amplifier).
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ier/1VnYjLzxpT
It connects to F15 20A but pin-out is strange as I said they display 40pins connector for that amp...

Isn't 20A fuse too small for such amp? But I find it here:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lifier/v0T2BKh
Top-HiFi F15 20A
Not Top-HiFi F42 40A
Top-HiFi has smaller fuse than Not Top-HiFi? Is this documentation wrong?

[ctuna]

Do not confuse the Hi Fi and Top Hi Fi amp connector they are
not the same they cannot be compared physicaly.
There is another amp beyond the top Hi Fi amp for what is called
the individual amp which is basically a version of the same with more
power. You will have to call the BMW engineers on this and it doesn't say
the other amp if there is one is Hi Fi in that schematic.
Also there is often a difference in he way things are done between
country's.

Retrofitting Logic 7 is not as popular in the US as Europe you might try
some of the Euro Boards.

[Hotter]

So I decided to simply power amp from battery directly with dedicated fuse. I used 20A fuse as the wire from amp is only 2.5mm2 size, max fuse for such wire is 25A and in documentation its 20A. But its strange that amp is such low powered.

I have installed amp and interestingly HU recognized it instantly and I see TopHifi menus and it plays the music!

Still I need to replace all speakers and finish wiring center speaker.

Should rear shelf spakers play only high and bit of mid? I dont hear any low frequencies. I wonder did I mix up rear shelf and rear sides speaker wires?

[Hotter]

Does any one know at which place original wires goes from left front door speakers to the right one? do I need to remove center console to install the wires? Or is there a way around it?

[vilord]

Are you retrofitting from hi fi to logic 7, or from base audio to logic 7?

In my 2007 with hifi, each door speaker set went all the way back to the amp in the trunk,
i just had to cut the wires off the hifi connector and splice them into the logic 7 amp output.
So... nothing goes from the left door to the right door.

Even with base audio, the cables would just go from the door straight to the radio, not from left to right.

If you're going from base audio to logic 7, you probably want to cut into the door harness just after it comes into the main part of the car, and run from there back.

Don't get discouraged though, the improvement in audio quality is remarkable!

[Hotter]

I finished logic7 retrofit, it took me about 3 weekends to do it. If I would have proper garage it would be easier, I had to work in under-ground parking... I got basically entire retrofit kit, so it was easier, but still I needed to power AMP myself and find where what wire go, which was tricky a bit. But over all retrofit was not that hard. Radio recognized logic7 even without coding. But still I added VO 678 to CAS and NFRM as proper installation require. 20A fuse seems to be enough. It sounds good, although I would like a bit more bass, but I guess I need to play with EQ and fine tune to get it right. At high volume bass is fine. And I am satisfied with results. I recommend retrofitting logic7 if you will get good deal and entire setup with wires, back shelf, amp and so on.... I have retrofitted entire 13speakers. One part I am missing is the center grill. This is my workaround for that grill, although I hope to find it and buy it:

[ptpending]

no need to replace back shelf in e90 for logic7 retrofit, only in e92

[Hotter]

Added harman/kardon stickers. I guess they were only on LCI models.
Increases sound quality

[Nachillo123]

Hotter hiii!! small question. I have a e92 with base audio set up. i want to upgrade it to logic 7. The problem y that i have to rewire the fiber optical wire from the back to the front. Did u did it as well?? thanks!!!

[Leegbr]

I’m doing the same thing myself. Seem to have a problem with my amp I bough as one sub channel isn’t working. I used a 30amp fuse so dunno if that makes any difference.

My e92 came with cd changer preparation. Lift the left side plastic container out of the boot / trunk and see if you have a thingy cable wrapped in black padding. If you do then the easiest thing to do it resin the most distribution block behind the rear left passenger seat bolster (but that is in between the seat back and door panel where the seat belt goes)

[Leegbr]

I’m doing the speaker wiring by running the cables down the left side and connecting them to the four channels that used to drive the door speakers, then I’m wiring the subs up directly from the amp. Similar process with centre channel and I was hoping to just cutout the holes in the parcel shelf / rear deck for the rear speakers but I’ll tackle that another time.

[Hotter]

Originally Posted by Nachillo123

Hotter hiii!! small question. I have a e92 with base audio set up. i want to upgrade it to logic 7. The problem y that i have to rewire the fiber optical wire from the back to the front. Did u did it as well?? thanks!!!

My car had fiber optic installed, so I just needed to tap into the fiber loop.
I used this thread information: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1175122

[Aria335iN54]

Originally Posted by Hotter

I finished logic7 retrofit, it took me about 3 weekends to do it. If I would have proper garage it would be easier, I had to work in under-ground parking... I got basically entire retrofit kit, so it was easier, but still I needed to power AMP myself and find where what wire go, which was tricky a bit. But over all retrofit was not that hard. Radio recognized logic7 even without coding. But still I added VO 678 to CAS and NFRM as proper installation require. 20A fuse seems to be enough. It sounds good, although I would like a bit more bass, but I guess I need to play with EQ and fine tune to get it right. At high volume bass is fine. And I am satisfied with results. I recommend retrofitting logic7 if you will get good deal and entire setup with wires, back shelf, amp and so on.... I have retrofitted entire 13speakers. One part I am missing is the center grill. This is my workaround for that grill, although I hope to find it and buy it:

Hotter hey. I am about to do the same retrofit from hifi but for EPS individual Audio $752 which is the stronger version of L7 but apparently with the same wiring scheme.
Just wondering if you have had any further issues to mention?
I am going to go off the pinout you posted.

Also just wondering if any particular reason you did not reuse the existing power cable for hifi and ran a new cable?
I have the original ESP amp 20pin connector with a bit of wires still attached to it and I am going to measure the thickness and compare to my existing hifi amp wire thickness and if they are the same I should be safe to reuse the power?
I believe current amp fuse on my car is 20a as per the fuse box diagram.
Also noticed the woofer wires appear to be quite thick so will have to measure and compare against my existing cables on the car.

Also I will have to run new wires for the dash single speaker. Any idea of best wire spec?
I have the original wires for rear shelf 2x speakers so no issues there.

In theory it seems to be a straightforward upgrade, so not sure why some are kinda against it. I bought the amp and speakers for like 200 so cannot make a fuss.
Cheers

Edit. Just noticed the donor M3 car has a 40a fuse so most likely my exiting hifi power wire with 20a fuse is not adequate...

[vilord]

I was about to comment, though I now see your edit... the individual audio system has a different power supply source, and more power.

HiFi 676 is 20 amps, Top HiFi677 is also 20 amps, from the same fuse location so I just re-used the existing wire.

Individual 752 is 40 amps as you found.

(The fuse numbers here are Sept 2007 manufacture date and newer, the number above the wire color is the conductor diameter in mm)

[Aria335iN54]

Originally Posted by vilord

I was about to comment, though I now see your edit... the individual audio system has a different power supply source, and more power.

HiFi 676 is 20 amps, Top HiFi677 is also 20 amps, from the same fuse location so I just re-used the existing wire.

Individual 752 is 40 amps as you found.

(The fuse numbers here are Sept 2007 manufacture date and newer, the number above the wire color is the conductor diameter in mm)

vilord thanks for confirmation.
I have seen multiple times in the forums people saying L7 to individual 752 is PnP which now appears to be wrong.
I suppose a new power from Battery as mentioned in another thread is easier than upgrading existing power from fuse box.

Did you get access to diagrams via TIS ? I thought that it's no longer available to public. I would be interested to check the oem 752 wire spec for the subs and mids vs hifi and whether any speaker wire upgrade also required.

Cheers

[ctuna]

Tis has been removed from Internet Access by BMW
It's only paid access now.
If you want that info now you need a copy of Ista D

I am not going to do all your data collection for you but
there is a lot out there on the raw internet. (Across many BMW
Boards and on Y tube)

[vilord]

You can go ahead and use the 20amp feed from the fuse box that is there as other posts have suggested. Unless you're planning on running the whole system to the max, you'll probably never go over that 20amp spec.

I'll shoot you a PM about TIS.

[Hotter]

Originally Posted by Aria335iN54

Also just wondering if any particular reason you did not reuse the existing power cable for hifi and ran a new cable?

I had "Base audio" before so no AMP wires in the trunk, all wires come from Radio to speakers. Bought L7 with wiring extracted from a donor car. People with HiFi system has more options to retrofit other AMP/setups.

The fuse and power wire is bigger/thicker for L7 individual... But I guess up to certain volume it should not be a problem. But I guess better to get proper wiring from the scrap yard.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by Hotter

Hi, I am searching for logic7 amplifier 20pin wiring diagrams.
All I found is this:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ier/1VnYjLzxpT
Something is wrong because here is 40pin not 20pin... Where could I find good pinout?

P.S.
I found only this seems to be helpful.

This is so hopeful. Thank you! One question though. On top hifi, what do pins 2 and 12 do? I don't understand what the "stand back" means

[Hotter]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

This is so hopeful. Thank you! One question though. On top hifi, what do pins 2 and 12 do? I don't understand what the "stand back" means

I think its translation issue seems to mean the same as 1 and 11 just left side, so its "rear rack"/"rear shelf".