[iqraceworks]

I recently picked up a used 07' 355i with around 95,000 miles on it. I got it cheap...one of the reasons was because the car overheats fast, and the guy said it was because the water pump was bad. He said it took it to the shop and they replaced the radiator...and the thermostat...but not the water pump. That doesn't make any sense to me at all...why would you not replace the water pump? But...whatever.....

Anyway.....when I run the water pump bleed cycle and force the water pump to turn on and cycle......I can just hear it buzzing/chirping on and off every few seconds, but I never hear any water flowing. And when I scan it with MHD...I get a 2E82 - Electric Coolant Pump Cutoff, and a 2E84 - electric coolant pump missing.

I'm 99% sure it's a bad water pump....but before I replace it, is there anything else I should check? Or are all of those codes a tell tale sign for a bad water pump?

Thanks guys!!

[pwner4once]

85K / 07 328i here.

I had to replace my waterpump / t-stat recently due to similar codes.
I can drive the car for a while and the yellow engine overheating warning would come on then the red ones will kick in soon after.
When I try to run the coolant bleed cycle via start/pedal down 12secs, you can actually see the pump working when you open the coolant reservoir. Don't do that when it is hot for obviously reasons. That said, the water pump would stop working sporadically.

I'd go ahead and replace the pump right away.

If you actually have a scanner, it would tell u the pump wouldn't be drawing amperage at certain mileage marker and the number of occurrence.

[hassmaschine]

your pump is bad. the codes even agree. Either that, or they didn't plug it in.. I have no idea why you would replace the tstat and not the pump!

[El Cheapo Loco]

First check if you are actually getting power to the pump. I had an overheating episode and pump wasn't running. It was actually a blown fuse and the pump was good. The fuse is under the hood.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by El Cheapo Loco

First check if you are actually getting power to the pump. I had an overheating episode and pump wasn't running. It was actually a blown fuse and the pump was good. The fuse is under the hood.

I can hear it chirping and making noise when I try to run the bleed cycle on it.......with it making noise, I'm assuming that it's getting power. Or is there something else in that same area that could be making noise?? Could the thermostat be making noise?

[IllSic_Design]

If you hear it chirp/spin up and making noise then it is working. Only the waterpump starts up and makes noise in that area.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I can hear it chirping and making noise when I try to run the bleed cycle on it.......with it making noise, I'm assuming that it's getting power. Or is there something else in that same area that could be making noise?? Could the thermostat be making noise?

Then it works?

[CCiCarbon335i]

I just had the same thing on mine. Less than a week after purchase. Threw a couple yellow over heat warnings one day.
Cheapo no-name tstat was put in and only thing I can think is that the bugger got stuck closed which caused the seal to blow through. I was panicking thinking it was the water pump or rad fan (didnt come on during a test) or temp sensor (replaced anyways).

Car has only 92k kms and the water pump (continental) was changed by a previous owner so I didnt bother replacing.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Then it works?

Failure for these pumps isn’t a binary thing necessarily. Hearing it work doesn’t indicate it’s operating at the correct flow rate. I believe the idea here is just to ensure it’s actually getting power, though I’d personally use INPA and trigger it through Activations page.