[ElBimmer]

Hello. New on forum
I will appreciate if anyone would help me analyzing my log and my spark plugs.

Car sputters a little at cold start and i can sense a smell of gas from exhaust. Runs rough when cold, but gets better once warmed up. No misfires at pulls/regular driving. No codes either.
White/gray smoke when sitting at a stop and it does burn more oil than normal.

So today i decided to pull my plugs. Plug on cylinder 1 smelled like gas. Probably injector leak, right?
Also, i noticed cylinder 5 had oil on threads. What could that be from?

What else is worth pointing out from my datalog?
Car is in my garage during winter, so i have the possibility to work on it.

Engine has 200k miles on it.
Plugs and coils was replaced 1k miles ago. Delphi and NGK 1-step colder (0.22)
N54 MHD Stage 2+
93 oct
Intake, catless dp, fmic
Index 12

Thanks alot!

Datalog: https://datazap.me/u/elbimmer/log-16...og=0&data=3-21

[ab987]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Hello. New on forum
I will appreciate if anyone would help me analyzing my log and my spark plugs.

Car sputters a little at cold start and i can sense a smell of gas from exhaust. Runs rough when cold, but gets better once warmed up. No misfires at pulls/regular driving. No codes either.
White/gray smoke when sitting at a stop and it does burn more oil than normal.

So today i decided to pull my plugs. Plug on cylinder 1 smelled like gas. Probably injector leak, right?
Also, i noticed cylinder 5 had oil on threads. What could that be from?

What else is worth pointing out from my datalog?
Car is in my garage during winter, so i have the possibility to work on it.

Engine has 200k miles on it.
Plugs and coils was replaced 1k miles ago. Delphi and NGK 1-step colder (0.22)
N54 MHD Stage 2+
93 oct
Intake, catless dp, fmic
Index 12

Thanks alot!

Datalog: https://datazap.me/u/elbimmer/log-16...og=0&data=3-21

Burning oil at that mileage is probably not out of the ordinary, could be worn valve stem seals. Cylinder 1 plug smelling like gas is generally a good indicator of a leaky injector, even index 12s can leak. Oil on the threads is either a VCG leak or more usually remnants of oil spillage while filling, but usually mine ends up in 3 and 4 more than 5. STFTs are pretty negative in your logs (which means ECU is trying to pull fuel because it sees too much), and lambda definitely shows what is probably a pretty big fuel leak in bank 2 and possible slight leak in bank 1. Check some of those plugs after sitting overnight or after 6-8 hours and see which one it may be. Don't wait on this, leaking injectors plus a 200k mile motor is not a good combo at all. Otherwise LPFP/HPFP and turbos are good, you are getting some hefty timing corrections which could be injector-related.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Hello. New on forum
I will appreciate if anyone would help me analyzing my log and my spark plugs.

Car sputters a little at cold start and i can sense a smell of gas from exhaust. Runs rough when cold, but gets better once warmed up. No misfires at pulls/regular driving. No codes either.
White/gray smoke when sitting at a stop and it does burn more oil than normal.

So today i decided to pull my plugs. Plug on cylinder 1 smelled like gas. Probably injector leak, right?
Also, i noticed cylinder 5 had oil on threads. What could that be from?

What else is worth pointing out from my datalog?
Car is in my garage during winter, so i have the possibility to work on it.

Engine has 200k miles on it.
Plugs and coils was replaced 1k miles ago. Delphi and NGK 1-step colder (0.22)
N54 MHD Stage 2+
93 oct
Intake, catless dp, fmic
Index 12

Thanks alot!

Datalog: https://datazap.me/u/elbimmer/log-16...og=0&data=3-21

You've also flashed the wrong map if your using 93oct fuel.

Your Datalog shows 95oct/102ron map, probably why you bad timing corrections. Flash the 93oct map and relog.

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by ab987

Burning oil at that mileage is probably not out of the ordinary, could be worn valve stem seals. Cylinder 1 plug smelling like gas is generally a good indicator of a leaky injector, even index 12s can leak. Oil on the threads is either a VCG leak or more usually remnants of oil spillage while filling, but usually mine ends up in 3 and 4 more than 5. STFTs are pretty negative in your logs (which means ECU is trying to pull fuel because it sees too much), and lambda definitely shows what is probably a pretty big fuel leak in bank 2 and possible slight leak in bank 1. Check some of those plugs after sitting overnight or after 6-8 hours and see which one it may be. Don't wait on this, leaking injectors plus a 200k mile motor is not a good combo at all. Otherwise LPFP/HPFP and turbos are good, you are getting some hefty timing corrections which could be injector-related.

Yeah, i was hoping it wasnt stem seals. Is there any other way to check them for leakage, besides removing intake manifold and turbos?

Oil on threads were black, so it’s used oil. I thought about VCG aswell, but cant really see how the oil from a VCG can get past the sealing ring on the plugs and then into the threads? No oil was found on top of the plug.

I was also wondering what the hell happeneded in bank 2 a bit after letting off the throttle. Is that really a leak?
I see that bank 1 have a leak because it does not shoot directly up like bank 2, right after letting off the throttle. Thought that might be cyl 1 injector.
But i have multiple injector leaks?…
Will try pulling plugs over again.

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

You've also flashed the wrong map if your using 93oct fuel.

Your Datalog shows 95oct/102ron map, probably why you bad timing corrections. Flash the 93oct map and relog.

Yep thanks. I actually noticed that aswell. Log is from 2 weeks ago. I have reflashed it already. Pretty sure thats because of the timing corrections.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Yep thanks. I actually noticed that aswell. Log is from 2 weeks ago. I have reflashed it already. Pretty sure thats because of the timing corrections.

Can you post a updated log?

Is it still sputtering on cold starts?

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Can you post a updated log?

Is it still sputtering on cold starts?

Sorry i can not. License plates are off during winter.
It is still sputtering on cold starts, yes.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Yeah, i was hoping it wasnt stem seals. Is there any other way to check them for leakage, besides removing intake manifold and turbos?

Oil on threads were black, so it’s used oil. I thought about VCG aswell, but cant really see how the oil from a VCG can get past the sealing ring on the plugs and then into the threads? No oil was found on top of the plug.

I was also wondering what the hell happeneded in bank 2 a bit after letting off the throttle. Is that really a leak?
I see that bank 1 have a leak because it does not shoot directly up like bank 2, right after letting off the throttle. So i have multiple injector leaks…
Will try pulling plugs over again.

Wet plugs is usually a sign of injector leaks unfortunately.

Worth looking at the video above, not sire if you have RB PCV Valve or catch can setup.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Sorry i can not. License plates are off during winter.
It is still sputtering on cold starts, yes.

Ok mat, no worries, work on sorting the injector leak and smoke out, your timing corrections should be fine

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Wet plugs is usually a sign of injector leaks unfortunately.

Worth looking at the video above, not sire if you have RB PCV Valve or catch can setup.

Guess my only option to really check injectors for leakage will be pulling them up, connect fuel lines, dont connect plugs into injectors and then crank engine to check for drippage?

I have already ordered a RB valve last week

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by ab987

Burning oil at that mileage is probably not out of the ordinary, could be worn valve stem seals. Cylinder 1 plug smelling like gas is generally a good indicator of a leaky injector, even index 12s can leak. Oil on the threads is either a VCG leak or more usually remnants of oil spillage while filling, but usually mine ends up in 3 and 4 more than 5. STFTs are pretty negative in your logs (which means ECU is trying to pull fuel because it sees too much), and lambda definitely shows what is probably a pretty big fuel leak in bank 2 and possible slight leak in bank 1. Check some of those plugs after sitting overnight or after 6-8 hours and see which one it may be. Don't wait on this, leaking injectors plus a 200k mile motor is not a good combo at all. Otherwise LPFP/HPFP and turbos are good, you are getting some hefty timing corrections which could be injector-related.

Can this be caused by a faulty o2 sensor? I could not smell any fuel on plugs in cyl 4-5-6..

[ab987]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Can this be caused by a faulty o2 sensor? I could not smell any fuel on plugs in cyl 4-5-6..

It could be. Do you hear any backfires that last more than a second?

[whyzee125]

How old are the injectors? If they aren’t new, I would replace them as it seems like they’re leaking. Good chance that’s the cause of your smoke and your rough idle on cold start. That could cause timing corrections but running a higher octane map absolutely would. I bet the car runs great with new injectors. Oil burning is more likely worn turbos or a faulty pcv/valve cover than valve stem seals. Valve stem seals are not a common issue on this platform

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by ab987

It could be. Do you hear any backfires that last more than a second?

No backfires at all. Just crackles. Im running Catless dps and Pe mod.
However i had Burble Tune on aggressive (sport mode) for a while. Turned it off again, because ive heard it can do some serious damages. Could this have toasted anything?

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

How old are the injectors? If they aren’t new, I would replace them as it seems like they’re leaking. Good chance that’s the cause of your smoke and your rough idle on cold start. That could cause timing corrections but running a higher octane map absolutely would. I bet the car runs great with new injectors. Oil burning is more likely worn turbos or a faulty pcv/valve cover than valve stem seals. Valve stem seals are not a common issue on this platform

Sorry i dont know. Only know they have been replaced.
Could i do this test and only replace those who are leaking? Not trying to be cheap, but i think it would be a waste if only the injector on cyl. 1 is leaking.
https://youtu.be/22qOt8IQv9A

PCV System, valve cover and turbos will be checked during this winter then.
But i thought those seals could go out because of the mileage?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

Sorry i dont know. Only know they have been replaced.
Could i do this test and only replace those who are leaking? Not trying to be cheap, but i think it would be a waste if only the injector on cyl. 1 is leaking.

PCV System, valve cover and turbos will be checked during this winter then.
But i thought those seals could go out because of the mileage?

Valve stem seals can go, although not as common but you'd want to eliminate cheaper possibilities first, PCV Valve and catch can etc.

If your replacing injectors, you' should be getting index 12 ones, they shouldn't be mixed with index 10 and older ones in the same bank.

If your current ones are index 10 or older, best to replace them all, but confirm if they are leaking first. 6 x injectors are gone cost almost as much as the turbos unfortunately,

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

No backfires at all. Just crackles. Im running Catless dps and Pe mod.
However i had Burble Tune on aggressive (sport mode) for a while. Turned it off again, because ive heard it can do some serious damages. Could this have toasted anything?

They can probably blow turbo seals, had them turned off completely on mine from day 1.

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Valve stem seals can go, although not as common but you'd want to eliminate cheaper possibilities first, PCV Valve and catch can etc.

If your replacing injectors, you' should be getting index 12 ones, they shouldn't be mixed with index 10 and older ones in the same bank.

If your current ones are index 10 or older, best to replace them all, but confirm if they are leaking first. 6 x injectors are gone cost almost as much as the turbos unfortunately,

So you suggest i removed valve cover, check for cracks in VC/blockage of PCV ports. Then replace VCG, put on my new RB valve and use a catch can for High Side (boost)? With that i would eliminate my PCV system and VC/VCG.
If also a compression test is OK, the only thing left that could be causing my oil consumption, smoke and leak on plug would be valve stem seals, provided my engine isnt leaking anywhere else (turbos and other gaskets), right?

All injectors are 12. So when a leak test have been accomplished, if only cyl 1 is leaking, i could just replace that with another 12?

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

They can probably blow turbo seals, had them turned off completely on mine from day 1.

Exactly! Not worth damaging the engine for a few pops here and there

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

So you suggest i removed valve cover, check for cracks in VC/blockage of PCV ports. Then replace VCG, put on my new RB valve and use a catch can for High Side (boost)? With that i would eliminate my PCV system and VC/VCG.
If also a compression test is OK, the only thing left that could be causing my oil consumption, smoke and leak on plug would be valve stem seals, provided my engine isnt leaking anywhere else (turbos and other gaskets), right?

All injectors are 12. So when a leak test have been accomplished, if only cyl 1 is leaking, i could just replace that with another 12?

If they are all index 12 then yes, you could just replace the injector assuming it's leaking and code it.

If your Valve cover gasket is leaking then yes, usually it's the gasket that's leaking though, you may not need to replace your VC itself, check for any cracks thoroughly though,

RB PCV Valve and catch can yes, low side or a dual catch can setup is better because Engine spends most the time off boost, it will catch much more crap.

https://www. *********** .com/threads/dual-catch-can-why-you-want-to-do-it.3136/

Worst case valve stem seals or blown turbos etc

[ElBimmer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

If they are all index 12 then yes, you could just replace the injector assuming it's leaking and code it.

If your Valve cover gasket is leaking then yes, usually it's the gasket that's leaking though, you may not need to replace your VC itself, check for any cracks thoroughly though,

RB PCV Valve and catch can yes, low side or a dual catch can setup is better because Engine spends most the time off boost, it will catch much more crap.

https://www. *********** .com/threads/dual-catch-can-why-you-want-to-do-it.3136/

Worst case valve stem seals or blown turbos etc

If i checked my injectors for leaks and concludes only injector 1 has to be replaced, do you have any suggestions what could cause the craziness of bank 2 as you can see in my log?

Yep i will put on a new PCV valve, catch can High side, VCG and consider external on low side in the future. Crossing fingers that my ports in VC isnt clogged or find any cracks!

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ElBimmer

If i checked my injectors for leaks and concludes only injector 1 has to be replaced, do you have any suggestions what could cause the craziness of bank 2 as you can see in my log?

Yep i will put on a new PCV valve, catch can High side, VCG and consider external on low side in the future. Crossing fingers that my ports in VC isnt clogged or find any cracks!

It's probably caused by leaking injectors.