[Hoper]

Originally Posted by RJ019

Yes T1M does remote tuning I'm also in Canberra. He did the tune on my low mount single turbo. Very happy with the tune surprisingly my fuel economy also went up.

Thanks RJ

Low mount single, I'm very interested to catch up at some stage, would love to have a look at that setup

Yep have been chatting to Tim, he's going to be doing my tune, should have a base map before the weekend and some logs back to him for a look

[mikenazz]

How are the ard turbo's going?

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by mikenazz

How are the ard turbo's going?

Going really well, they spool up quick and seem to produce boost without as much effort as the stockies, which should be the case

chasing a decent HPFP at the moment, I replaced mine when I did the Turbo's but it was a dud so I've put the old one back in and have sent it back to FCP, the old one does better at high RPM but has some flat spots at low RPM, so am waiting for the new one to arrive before finishing the tune

really happy with the turbo's so far though

[Hoper]

So I managed to break my engine the week before the dyno day, long story short, I screwed up when walnut blasting the inlets

This has led to a full tear down of the engine, with the following work now being undertaken

Head has been fully cleaned and serviced, valves have been buffed and new valve seals fitted

Block is being decked and honed

Rotating mass is being balanced

CP Carrillo forged pistons will be purchased once honing is complete and I can confirm the size

New main bearings and new conrod bearings

New timing chain and oil pump chain, new chain guides and of course all new gaskets and all new bolts (many many bolts)

Some photo's of the tear down

[Socket]

Ouch. How come so much damage from walnut blast Hops??

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Hoper

So I managed to break my engine the week before the dyno day, long story short, I screwed up when walnut blasting the inlets

This has led to a full tear down of the engine, with the following work now being undertaken

Head has been fully cleaned and serviced, valves have been buffed and new valve seals fitted

Block is being decked and honed

Rotating mass is being balanced

CP Carrillo forged pistons will be purchased once honing is complete and I can confirm the size

New main bearings and new conrod bearings

New timing chain and oil pump chain, new chain guides and of course all new gaskets and all new bolts (many many bolts)

Some photo's of the tear down

It looks like my old engine Hoper. Are you replacing the conrods with stronger items? How did you remove the bolt holding the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft? I tried to undo mine with a long bar but couldn't move it. Then Duck told me not to remove it as it is difficult to get the required torque to tighten it up again and if it comes loose, the timing chain moves resulting in blown engine.

[Brule]

Chuck rods in for sure.

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

It looks like my old engine Hoper. Are you replacing the conrods with stronger items? How did you remove the bolt holding the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft? I tried to undo mine with a long bar but couldn't move it. Then Duck told me not to remove it as it is difficult to get the required torque to tighten it up again and if it comes loose, the timing chain moves resulting in blown engine.

Hi Coupes, yes it's a weird setup, no key like we're used to, there's friction plates that hold the timing in place

You need a locking tool to hold it all in place while you torque it or remove it, I have big extension rods but I also needed something to keep the block still while I removed it, should also be fine for getting it back on, have new friction plates and a new bolt just to make sure, will need at least 1 mate for that job though

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Socket

Ouch. How come so much damage from walnut blast Hops??

Ahh Socks, pretty embarassing so wasn't going to elaborate, but I guess if it saves someone else...

The valves were so dirty that I didn't get the valves fully closed on Cyl5, this meant that I got quite alot of walnut media into the cylinder

This isn't really a problem in itself, as long as you're not stupid like I was, so what you should do is roll the engine back, by having it in gear, or by using a spanner on the crank bolt, to fully open the valves, you should then take the spark plug out and use compressed air to blow the media out before doing anything else

what I did was use the starter to roll the engine forward, which hydrolocked (walnut locked) on the exhaust stroke and bent the exhaust valves

The when I (eventually) rolled the engine back and cleaned the media out, I don't think I did a good enough job

anyway, bent valves and a cracked piston, not much else wrong, but when you're in this deep you might as well replace it all

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Brule

Chuck rods in for sure.

not sure, rods are really expensive, it's already costing quite a lot, I'll have another look and make a final decision, noting that I haven't bought the pistons yet and they tend to come as a package

[Coupes33]

I would definitely install stronger conrods. It was a conrod that bent on my engine for some reason.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Hoper

Ahh Socks, pretty embarassing so wasn't going to elaborate, but I guess if it saves someone else...

The valves were so dirty that I didn't get the valves fully closed on Cyl5, this meant that I got quite alot of walnut media into the cylinder

This isn't really a problem in itself, as long as you're not stupid like I was, so what you should do is roll the engine back, by having it in gear, or by using a spanner on the crank bolt, to fully open the valves, you should then take the spark plug out and use compressed air to blow the media out before doing anything else

what I did was use the starter to roll the engine forward, which hydrolocked (walnut locked) on the exhaust stroke and bent the exhaust valves

The when I (eventually) rolled the engine back and cleaned the media out, I don't think I did a good enough job

anyway, bent valves and a cracked piston, not much else wrong, but when you're in this deep you might as well replace it all

Holy hell mate. Sorry to see it happen to you. On the upside good excuse to upgrade all the bits. Good luck mate. Hope it’s back on the road soon 👍

[kookie]

Full rebuild

Stronger... Faster

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Socket

Holy hell mate. Sorry to see it happen to you. On the upside good excuse to upgrade all the bits. Good luck mate. Hope it's back on the road soon

thanks Socks, will be fine although very broke for quite a while

now researching rods as well, thanks Brule and Coupes, Molnar seem to be good value, anyone have any thoughts?

Carrillo are V expensive, couldn't do that, Paulter are also up there but slightly better than Carrillo on price

only other thought is whether to use 9.5:1 pistons or stick with 10.2:1 currently thinking I should stick with 10.2:1

[Coupes33]

VAC Motorsports sell Arrow Rods ($1,859.95 US) and Manley Rods ($1,549.95 US)

[DR-JEKL]

Damn mate sorry to hear of your misfortune

PPM an australian co offer rods and pistons to suit

https://www.pureperformancemotorspor...d-pistons.html

https://www.pureperformancemotorspor...ting-rods.html

A few guys 4+ in australia run them that i know of, they're high quality items

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Damn mate sorry to hear of your misfortune

PPM an australian co offer rods and pistons to suit

https://www.pureperformancemotorspor...d-pistons.html

https://www.pureperformancemotorspor...ting-rods.html

A few guys 4+ in australia run them that i know of, they're high quality items

Thanks Dr, have contacted them, website says they normally manufacture to order and would take 6-8weeks which would probably send me elsewhere

We'll see what they come back with, would be good to buy Australian

[donR]

That is bad luck. I remember my old E30 323i was due for a timing belt replacement, had it in the boot ready to install on the weekend and what happened, the bloody thing snapped. Fortunately no cracked pistons though, just a few bent valves as was idling at the time. Long story but ended up re-building the whole engine. Was great in the end.

But I wouldn't want to do an N54. Can't you just get away with replacing the single cracked piston and bent valves?

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by donR

That is bad luck. I remember my old E30 323i was due for a timing belt replacement, had it in the boot ready to install on the weekend and what happened, the bloody thing snapped. Fortunately no cracked pistons though, just a few bent valves as was idling at the time. Long story but ended up re-building the whole engine. Was great in the end.

But I wouldn't want to do an N54. Can't you just get away with replacing the single cracked piston and bent valves?

Hi Don, you probably could, but I haven't gone that way, see next post for info

Reasoning is partly that you have to spend quite a bit for gaskets and single use bolts just to do that, and at that point I'd rather make sure that I don't leave other parts that could fail soon in there

[Hoper]

My engine build is starting to take shape, everything is being replaced now, the only retained parts are Block, Head and Crankshaft

Head has been refurbed with new valve seals and all valves have been buffed, head has also been skimmed to ensure a seal

Block has been bored out to 84.5mm, stock is 84mm, block is also being decked

Rotating mass is being balanced

Forged rods and pistons have been ordered, new bearings have arrived (main and conrod)

I've purchased 9.5:1 pistons, kind of against my better judgement, but the Pure Performance guys (Aussies) only make 9.5:1 and they assure me that it won't be much of a change in terms of driveability

I'll let you all know how it goes, T1M will also be able to provide some insight on how this engine works when slightly decompressed, I'm keeping my fingers firmly crossed that it doesn't make it massively laggy and that my turbo's will flow enough

I'll post pics and build notes once I get all the bits back and start putting it all back together

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Hoper

My engine build is starting to take shape, everything is being replaced now, the only retained parts are Block, Head and Crankshaft

Head has been refurbed with new valve seals and all valves have been buffed, head has also been skimmed to ensure a seal

Block has been bored out to 84.5mm, stock is 84mm, block is also being decked

Rotating mass is being balanced

Forged rods and pistons have been ordered, new bearings have arrived (main and conrod)

I've purchased 9.5:1 pistons, kind of against my better judgement, but the Pure Performance guys (Aussies) only make 9.5:1 and they assure me that it won't be much of a change in terms of driveability

I'll let you all know how it goes, T1M will also be able to provide some insight on how this engine works when slightly decompressed, I'm keeping my fingers firmly crossed that it doesn't make it massively laggy and that my turbo's will flow enough

I'll post pics and build notes once I get all the bits back and start putting it all back together

Moving along nicely Hops
Who is doing the work for you?
Can’t wait to see the pics

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Socket

Moving along nicely Hops
Who is doing the work for you?
Can’t wait to see the pics

Phillip head services here in Canberra is doing all the machining, I'll be rebuilding the engine once the machining is complete

So I'll take plenty of pics and do a bit of a write up, will also give my thoughts on what the 9.5:1 compression ratio does to driveability