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Car won’t start, ton of codes
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06-27-2022, 07:22 AM | #1 |
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Car won’t start, ton of codes
I’ve got a 2007 335i FBO and I just recently shotgunned a ton of parts into it (mostly maintenance) and the car runs perfectly however I’m now having intermittent starting issues. When the car does start it start and runs fine, no issues. Other times no crank, no start but if i wait like 5 minutes it’ll start just fine, no long crank no problems at all. I thought i had narrowed it down to the car not starting upon immediate restart but now this morning i went to start it up and it wouldn’t start and i checked to see if it threw any codes and i got these codes
29E0 2D25 2DC3 CD95 CD98 CD99 CD9C CD9D CD9E CDA0 CDA1 CDA5 CDA8 CDAD CDB0 I remember when i was troubleshooting a starting issue i had pulled the ignition fuse relay (I think that’s what it was) and it threw a bunch of codes like this but I don’t remember the codes exactly. Last edited by drrnpckns; 06-27-2022 at 07:23 AM.. Reason: Upload pics |
06-27-2022, 09:34 AM | #2 | |
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Wanna guess connector/corrosion. The essence of your problem is that the DME is unable to communicate, or do so reliably, with other modules, the important ones being EGS (trans) and CAS, since the DME won't start the engine without those. 2D25, 2DC3, 29E0 won't stop your engine. Why this is happening? Anybody's guess. Again, wanna guess it has something to do with your 'shotgunning' a ton of parts" into the car. However, since the engine will sometimes run, the problem is intermittent. Intermittent electrical problems are often about corrosion on a connector or wire. First, trace all the components you disturbed during your shotgunning. Also, look for water in the DME box. Pull off the DME connectors and spray with a good quality contact cleaner (DeoxIT is the best I know). EDIT: on re-read I notice you say you sometimes have no-crank, no-start. That adds a lot to the mix. You can completely remove the DME and the engine will still crank - that is controlled by CAS. How to put all this together? Not obvious but look to the simple, most common, no-crank issues; engine ground strap, B+ line from battery box to jumper terminal. Last edited by dpaul; 06-27-2022 at 09:41 AM.. |
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06-27-2022, 10:16 AM | #3 | ||
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Valve cover, gasket and PCV Plugs Coils Starter Lpfp Battery Thermostat Turbo inlets (because i broke the rear one taking off the intake manifold changing the starter) |
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06-27-2022, 11:51 AM | #4 | |
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I'm NOT familiar with MHD, but I presume that is what ScreenPrints show? INPA or ISTA would tell you if CAS is receiving P/N signal from EGS. When Starter will NOT Crank engine: 1) Do you see "P" or other gear selected displayed in Lower Instrument Cluster Display? 2) Can you press Brake (Ignition ON) and move Shift Lever from P to R to N to D? 3) Does Lower Display on Cluster correctly show Gear Selected? George |
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06-27-2022, 11:55 AM | #5 | |
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Please see prior post and indicate what Diagnostic Software/ Tool(s) you have available. George |
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06-27-2022, 11:56 AM | #6 | |
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If so, and because this is intermittent, look to your ground strap, #1 thing to do. If it looks intact, give it a good tug. If it separates, that's at least one of your problems. Also, measure voltage at the jump terminal in the engine compartment - do it with the voltmeter ground on the engine and also on the chassis. Report your readings. This will address #2 most likely explanation i.e. B+ from battery compartment. Read my first post, think about the issues I raised i.e. corrosion and connectors Last edited by dpaul; 06-27-2022 at 12:06 PM.. |
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06-27-2022, 12:45 PM | #7 | ||
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06-28-2022, 04:13 PM | #8 | |
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And measured the jump terminals and got 12.27 Checked the DME and have no clue what factory wiring looks like but what I see in the pics don't look right to me |
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06-28-2022, 06:11 PM | #9 |
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06-28-2022, 06:13 PM | #10 |
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06-28-2022, 06:17 PM | #11 |
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06-29-2022, 04:46 AM | #12 |
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Yes, yes and yes. Also i think i have INPA correctly installed but I have to wait until after work today to test it out.
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06-29-2022, 02:56 PM | #13 |
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Okay so the car completely died last night but i got it to run today. I just need someone to confirm my thinking. What I did was tried jumping it from the jump terminals but that didn't work so i hooked up straight to the alternator and it fired right up. So that means i have a bad ground somewhere between the jump terminal and the alternator, right? It is to my understanding that the starter itself is grounded by design because it mounts against the engine so is it the grounding strap? I'm gonna replace the grounding strap regardless just because it's a cheap fix.
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06-29-2022, 09:06 PM | #14 | |
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What is the voltage at Jumpstart Terminal (under Red plastic cap) under hood before attempting to crank starter? If that is MORE than 12.0 Volts, simply connect a Supplemental Ground cable (Single Jumper Cable) from the Hex-pin on the Right Fender/ Wing to a bolthead or bracket attached to the engine. If the Starter NOW cranks, then your ground strap BENEATH the car on Left Side, next to Starter Motor, needs replacement. If Starter only cranks when Red B+ Jumper cable is attached to LARGE Nut/ Red Cable on rear of Alternator, then the B+ cable that runs from the B+ Jumpstart Terminal to the Alternator and Starter Motor is loose/ broken. See X6404 Connector in attached ISTA ScreenPrint for 2007 335i built AFTER 3/1/2007. George |
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06-29-2022, 09:25 PM | #15 | |
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06-30-2022, 05:09 AM | #16 | |
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