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      06-27-2022, 07:22 AM   #1
drrnpckns
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Car won’t start, ton of codes

I’ve got a 2007 335i FBO and I just recently shotgunned a ton of parts into it (mostly maintenance) and the car runs perfectly however I’m now having intermittent starting issues. When the car does start it start and runs fine, no issues. Other times no crank, no start but if i wait like 5 minutes it’ll start just fine, no long crank no problems at all. I thought i had narrowed it down to the car not starting upon immediate restart but now this morning i went to start it up and it wouldn’t start and i checked to see if it threw any codes and i got these codes

29E0
2D25
2DC3
CD95
CD98
CD99
CD9C
CD9D
CD9E
CDA0
CDA1
CDA5
CDA8
CDAD
CDB0

I remember when i was troubleshooting a starting issue i had pulled the ignition fuse relay (I think that’s what it was) and it threw a bunch of codes like this but I don’t remember the codes exactly.
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Last edited by drrnpckns; 06-27-2022 at 07:23 AM.. Reason: Upload pics
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      06-27-2022, 09:34 AM   #2
dpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
I’ve got a 2007 335i FBO and I just recently shotgunned a ton of parts into it (mostly maintenance) and the car runs perfectly however I’m now having intermittent starting issues. When the car does start it start and runs fine, no issues. Other times no crank, no start but if i wait like 5 minutes it’ll start just fine, no long crank no problems at all. I thought i had narrowed it down to the car not starting upon immediate restart but now this morning i went to start it up and it wouldn’t start and i checked to see if it threw any codes and i got these codes

29E0
2D25
2DC3
CD95
CD98
CD99
CD9C
CD9D
CD9E
CDA0
CDA1
CDA5
CDA8
CDAD
CDB0

I remember when i was troubleshooting a starting issue i had pulled the ignition fuse relay (I think that’s what it was) and it threw a bunch of codes like this but I don’t remember the codes exactly.

Wanna guess connector/corrosion. The essence of your problem is that the DME is unable to communicate, or do so reliably, with other modules, the important ones being EGS (trans) and CAS, since the DME won't start the engine without those. 2D25, 2DC3, 29E0 won't stop your engine.

Why this is happening? Anybody's guess. Again, wanna guess it has something to do with your 'shotgunning' a ton of parts" into the car. However, since the engine will sometimes run, the problem is intermittent. Intermittent electrical problems are often about corrosion on a connector or wire. First, trace all the components you disturbed during your shotgunning. Also, look for water in the DME box. Pull off the DME connectors and spray with a good quality contact cleaner (DeoxIT is the best I know).

EDIT: on re-read I notice you say you sometimes have no-crank, no-start. That adds a lot to the mix. You can completely remove the DME and the engine will still crank - that is controlled by CAS. How to put all this together? Not obvious but look to the simple, most common, no-crank issues; engine ground strap, B+ line from battery box to jumper terminal.

Last edited by dpaul; 06-27-2022 at 09:41 AM..
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      06-27-2022, 10:16 AM   #3
drrnpckns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
I’ve got a 2007 335i FBO and I just recently shotgunned a ton of parts into it (mostly maintenance) and the car runs perfectly however I’m now having intermittent starting issues. When the car does start it start and runs fine, no issues. Other times no crank, no start but if i wait like 5 minutes it’ll start just fine, no long crank no problems at all. I thought i had narrowed it down to the car not starting upon immediate restart but now this morning i went to start it up and it wouldn’t start and i checked to see if it threw any codes and i got these codes

29E0
2D25
2DC3
CD95
CD98
CD99
CD9C
CD9D
CD9E
CDA0
CDA1
CDA5
CDA8
CDAD
CDB0

I remember when i was troubleshooting a starting issue i had pulled the ignition fuse relay (I think that’s what it was) and it threw a bunch of codes like this but I don’t remember the codes exactly.

Wanna guess connector/corrosion. The essence of your problem is that the DME is unable to communicate, or do so reliably, with other modules, the important ones being EGS (trans) and CAS, since the DME won't start the engine without those. 2D25, 2DC3, 29E0 won't stop your engine.

Why this is happening? Anybody's guess. Again, wanna guess it has something to do with your 'shotgunning' a ton of parts" into the car. However, since the engine will sometimes run, the problem is intermittent. Intermittent electrical problems are often about corrosion on a connector or wire. First, trace all the components you disturbed during your shotgunning. Also, look for water in the DME box. Pull off the DME connectors and spray with a good quality contact cleaner (DeoxIT is the best I know).

EDIT: on re-read I notice you say you sometimes have no-crank, no-start. That adds a lot to the mix. You can completely remove the DME and the engine will still crank - that is controlled by CAS. How to put all this together? Not obvious but look to the simple, most common, no-crank issues; engine ground strap, B+ line from battery box to jumper terminal.
To clarify what parts I've replaced in the last week:

Valve cover, gasket and PCV
Plugs
Coils
Starter
Lpfp
Battery
Thermostat
Turbo inlets (because i broke the rear one taking off the intake manifold changing the starter)
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      06-27-2022, 11:51 AM   #4
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
... 2007 335i FBO... having intermittent starting issues. When the car does start it starts and runs fine, no issues. Other times no crank, no start but if i wait like 5 minutes it’ll start just fine...
CD9D [AND 11 other "Message"/ Communication Fault Codes]
BUS faults (loose/corroded connectors/wires) can prevent proper communication between Modules (your 335i has nearly 20 different Modules). CAS Module cranks Starter via KL50 IF it receives signal, VIA K-CAN BUS, that AT is in P/N. EGS sends that signal to JBE via PT-CAN bus, and JBE sends signal to CAS via K-CAN bus.

I'm NOT familiar with MHD, but I presume that is what ScreenPrints show?
INPA or ISTA would tell you if CAS is receiving P/N signal from EGS. When Starter will NOT Crank engine:
1) Do you see "P" or other gear selected displayed in Lower Instrument Cluster Display?
2) Can you press Brake (Ignition ON) and move Shift Lever from P to R to N to D?
3) Does Lower Display on Cluster correctly show Gear Selected?
George
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      06-27-2022, 11:55 AM   #5
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
To clarify what parts I've replaced in the last week:
Valve cover, gasket and PCV
Plugs
Coils
Starter
Lpfp
Battery
Thermostat
Turbo inlets (because i broke the rear one taking off the intake manifold changing the starter)
BOTH my Rotator Cuffs ACHE just reading that.
Please see prior post and indicate what Diagnostic Software/ Tool(s) you have available.
George
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      06-27-2022, 11:56 AM   #6
dpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
To clarify what parts I've replaced in the last week:

Valve cover, gasket and PCV
Plugs
Coils
Starter
Lpfp
Battery
Thermostat
Turbo inlets (because i broke the rear one taking off the intake manifold changing the starter)
OK, I'm going to make the assumption you replaced the starter and the battery to address a no-crank condition.

If so, and because this is intermittent, look to your ground strap, #1 thing to do. If it looks intact, give it a good tug. If it separates, that's at least one of your problems.

Also, measure voltage at the jump terminal in the engine compartment - do it with the voltmeter ground on the engine and also on the chassis. Report your readings. This will address #2 most likely explanation i.e. B+ from battery compartment. Read my first post, think about the issues I raised i.e. corrosion and connectors

Last edited by dpaul; 06-27-2022 at 12:06 PM..
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      06-27-2022, 12:45 PM   #7
drrnpckns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
BOTH my Rotator Cuffs [COLOR="Red"]ACHE[/COLOR] just reading that.
Please see prior post and indicate what Diagnostic Software/ Tool(s) you have available.
George
I just use MHD to read codes. MHD is just a flasher for tuning that can read codes and it can log other stuff too. About to get INPA though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
OK, I'm going to make the assumption you replaced the starter and the battery to address a no-crank condition.

If so, and because this is intermittent, look to your ground strap, #1 thing to do. If it looks intact, give it a good tug. If it separates, that's at least one of your problems.

Also, measure voltage at the jump terminal in the engine compartment - do it with the voltmeter ground on the engine and also on the chassis. Report your readings
I will check all of that when I get home later tonight and report back. And the grounding strap is located right below the jump terminal, correct?
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      06-28-2022, 04:13 PM   #8
drrnpckns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
I'm going to make the assumption you replaced the starter and the battery to address a no-crank condition.

If so, and because this is intermittent, look to your ground strap, #1 thing to do. If it looks intact, give it a good tug. If it separates, that's at least one of your problems.

Also, measure voltage at the jump terminal in the engine compartment - do it with the voltmeter ground on the engine and also on the chassis. Report your readings. This will address #2 most likely explanation i.e. B+ from battery compartment. Read my first post, think about the issues I raised i.e. corrosion and connectors
Checked the grounding strap, seems ok

And measured the jump terminals and got 12.27

Checked the DME and have no clue what factory wiring looks like but what I see in the pics don't look right to me
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      06-28-2022, 06:11 PM   #9
dpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
Checked the grounding strap, seems ok

And measured the jump terminals and got 12.27

Checked the DME and have no clue what factory wiring looks like but what I see in the pics don't look right to me
That's normal
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      06-28-2022, 06:13 PM   #10
dpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
I

I will check all of that when I get home later tonight and report back. And the grounding strap is located right below the jump terminal, correct?
No, it's under the car. Goes between the engine block at the driver side motor mount to the frame.
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      06-28-2022, 06:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
No, it's under the car. Goes between the engine block at the driver side motor mount to the frame.
Alright well I've left myself stranded so I'll check that as soon as i get home somehow 😅
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      06-29-2022, 04:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
1) Do you see "P" or other gear selected displayed in Lower Instrument Cluster Display?
2) Can you press Brake (Ignition ON) and move Shift Lever from P to R to N to D?
3) Does Lower Display on Cluster correctly show Gear Selected?
George
Yes, yes and yes. Also i think i have INPA correctly installed but I have to wait until after work today to test it out.
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      06-29-2022, 02:56 PM   #13
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Okay so the car completely died last night but i got it to run today. I just need someone to confirm my thinking. What I did was tried jumping it from the jump terminals but that didn't work so i hooked up straight to the alternator and it fired right up. So that means i have a bad ground somewhere between the jump terminal and the alternator, right? It is to my understanding that the starter itself is grounded by design because it mounts against the engine so is it the grounding strap? I'm gonna replace the grounding strap regardless just because it's a cheap fix.
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      06-29-2022, 09:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
... tried jumping it from the jump terminals but that didn't work, so i hooked up straight to the
alternator and it fired right up...
Please provide photos or clear description of WHERE you connected Jumper/ Booster Cables, BOTH B+ (Red) and Ground (Black).

What is the voltage at Jumpstart Terminal (under Red plastic cap) under hood before attempting to crank starter?

If that is MORE than 12.0 Volts, simply connect a Supplemental Ground cable (Single Jumper Cable) from the Hex-pin
on the Right Fender/ Wing to a bolthead or bracket attached to the engine. If the Starter NOW cranks, then your ground
strap BENEATH the car on Left Side, next to Starter Motor, needs replacement.

If Starter only cranks when Red B+ Jumper cable is attached to LARGE Nut/ Red Cable on rear of Alternator, then the
B+ cable that runs from the B+ Jumpstart Terminal to the Alternator and Starter Motor is loose/ broken. See
X6404 Connector in attached ISTA ScreenPrint for 2007 335i built AFTER 3/1/2007.
George
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      06-29-2022, 09:25 PM   #15
drrnpckns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Please provide photos or clear description of WHERE you connected Jumper/ Booster Cables, BOTH B+ (Red) and Ground (Black).

What is the voltage at Jumpstart Terminal (under Red plastic cap) under hood before attempting to crank starter?

If that is MORE than 12.0 Volts, simply connect a Supplemental Ground cable (Single Jumper Cable) from the Hex-pin
on the Right Fender/ Wing to a bolthead or bracket attached to the engine. If the Starter NOW cranks, then your ground
strap BENEATH the car on Left Side, next to Starter Motor, needs replacement.

If Starter only cranks when Red B+ Jumper cable is attached to LARGE Nut/ Red Cable on rear of Alternator, then the
B+ cable that runs from the B+ Jumpstart Terminal to the Alternator and Starter Motor is loose/ broken. See
X6404 Connector in attached ISTA ScreenPrint for 2007 335i built AFTER 3/1/2007.
George
I see, that makes sense but I think I've figured this out. So when i went to check the grounding strap i found that what was there was not a grounding strap at all. The previous owner told me he pulled the engine to replace all the typical n54 gaskets and I'm finding out now he cut corners a lot during reinstall. But i replaced what he had with an actual grounding strap and now the car has started and restarted without issue for the last hour I've been driving around. Thanks for all the input.
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      06-30-2022, 05:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrnpckns View Post
Okay so the car completely died last night but i got it to run today. I just need someone to confirm my thinking. What I did was tried jumping it from the jump terminals but that didn't work so i hooked up straight to the alternator and it fired right up. So that means i have a bad ground somewhere between the jump terminal and the alternator, right? It is to my understanding that the starter itself is grounded by design because it mounts against the engine so is it the grounding strap? I'm gonna replace the grounding strap regardless just because it's a cheap fix.
You got it! Although I've replaced my corroded strap with a battery cable the way your previous owner did and it has worked well for several years. It's just in a bad, exposed location
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