[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by TheBigYahi

I believe this is the thread you're looking for:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=900394

BINGO! You found it! I kept looking for in the DIY section. Thanks. I thought I was going crazy.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by runwild

The catalog on real oem used to display the part as a discontinued or ended part. It no longer displays it so i would imagine they just took it off the site all together. At the time i replaced the part it was listed as discontinued. if you research it via the part number through google you will probably find more information, but regardless if anyone having vanos problems has the old part number that i originally posted i would replace it if its being problematic. The fact that the part isnt even available anymore would be enough of a reason to just replace it.

I stand corrected. It indeed was superceded. I checked the old P/N on getBMWparts and found this. I wasn't doubting you that the VANOS solenoid may have changed, there just wasn't evidence of it on realOEM. My apologies if you were offended. Other than getting dirty, there has not been a high rate of failure of the solenoids in the same manner as say the water pump.

[neyshule]

Good point brought by Three_thirty_I!!!
As my research continues on code 2A82, the biggest suspect is now vanos filter/check valve/non-return valve after I replaced both solenoids and CMP.
The biggest problem here now is there is no DIY on replacing it which makes me really frustrated!!!

Any DIY info will be much appreciated.

[Three_thirty_I]

I am probably going to replace these in due course, so will post a DIY, but it seems to be fairly easy. The only two or three things that I am unsure about is:

1.) Exactly how much oil will be coming out when removing them, don't want to make a mess of my otherwise clean engine and engine bay.
2.) Have not idea if there is a specific torque value when fitting them, so will just have to tighten them as I see fit - I don't think they need to be massively tight.
3.) Parts guy said it is best to start the engine with the ignition disabled to allow oil to move into the head, then enable ignition and fire up, not sure if this is really needed.

Will have to see...

[neyshule]

It seems quite safe, at least for:

Another question is why there are 2 filters no 1 in N52??

My thought is whether Auto Rx can de-clog this filter?

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

I am probably going to replace these in due course, so will post a DIY, but it seems to be fairly easy. The only two or three things that I am unsure about is:

1.) Exactly how much oil will be coming out when removing them, don't want to make a mess of my otherwise clean engine and engine bay.
2.) Have not idea if there is a specific torque value when fitting them, so will just have to tighten them as I see fit - I don't think they need to be massively tight.
3.) Parts guy said it is best to start the engine with the ignition disabled to allow oil to move into the head, then enable ignition and fire up, not sure if this is really needed.

Will have to see...

[Three_thirty_I]

That is for the E46 M3 motor which has a different Vanos system compared to the N52, so not entirely sure why it only has 1 compared to the N52. But on the N52 there is a Vanos solenoid for the intake side and another for the exhaust side, and for each there needs to be a filter and non-return valve (these Check valves therefore serve both purposes). I am sure in most cases they can be cleaned, but since they are not so expensive, it seems reasonable to just replace them.

[neyshule]

Thanks very much for your info, bro!!
Can you post your DIY for vanos filter? I'm eagerly to see that.

Regarding to this:"Parts guy said it is best to start the engine with the ignition disabled to allow oil to move into the head, then enable ignition and fire up, not sure if this is really needed."

Are you saying press ignition button only without stepping brake will let engine oil got to head?

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

That is for the E46 M3 motor which has a different Vanos system compared to the N52, so not entirely sure why it only has 1 compared to the N52. But on the N52 there is a Vanos solenoid for the intake side and another for the exhaust side, and for each there needs to be a filter and non-return valve (these Check valves therefore serve both purposes). I am sure in most cases they can be cleaned, but since they are not so expensive, it seems reasonable to just replace them.

[Meeni]

As far as I know the oil pump is mechanical and doesn't turn if the engine doesn't turn.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by neyshule

Thanks very much for your info, bro!!
Can you post your DIY for vanos filter? I'm eagerly to see that.

Regarding to this:"Parts guy said it is best to start the engine with the ignition disabled to allow oil to move into the head, then enable ignition and fire up, not sure if this is really needed."

Are you saying press ignition button only without stepping brake will let engine oil got to head?

No no. What he meant was to either pull the plugs and start the engine, or disable ignition via INPA etc in order to do this. But I don't think this is all that necessary. Oil flow and pressure will build up fairly quickly either way.

Originally Posted by Meeni

As far as I know the oil pump is mechanical and doesn't turn if the engine doesn't turn.

Yep, engine has to actually turn over, but with the ignition disabled so that it does not actually start. So basically just cranking the engine over to get oil flow through the Vanos etc.

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by Meeni

Cool, answers!

The issue returned again with cold weather. Fault on intake vanos, does not follow the solenoid swap, made worse with cold (thickened oil) or braking (g-force induced low pressure?).

I am very interested in trying these replacement parts, they are cheap, but they look annoying to access. I tried to look for them quickly but I could not see them, I know they should be between the exhaust pipe #1 and the cam tensioner, still couldn't see.

The Bentley is silent about these. If anybody has a good DIY or access to the DIS page, I'm interested.

Ok, so I did the swap today.

Once one removes the wheel liner, it is not a very had job. There is an AC pipe somewhat in the way but it is not that bad at all. Took me maybe 20 minutes to get the swap done including the liner removal and an oil change.

Now, look at the ugly things I found in there. You'll have no problem finding which one is the faulty one, coming from the top, controlling the intake vanos. That's a lot of finely ground metal shavings. I have nothing in the oil filter, and the magnetic drain plug came out clean as well, disturbing.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Meeni

Ok, so I did the swap today.

Once one removes the wheel liner, it is not a very had job. There is an AC pipe somewhat in the way but it is not that bad at all. Took me maybe 20 minutes to get the swap done including the liner removal and an oil change.

Now, look at the ugly things I found in there. You'll have no problem finding which one is the faulty one, coming from the top, controlling the intake vanos. That's a lot of finely ground metal shavings. I have nothing in the oil filter, and the magnetic drain plug came out clean as well, disturbing.

Whew! Ugly! I plan on replacing these on my car in a few weeks. Let's see what 276K and 17K OCIs brings to this picture. Just curious, are you the original owner of your car and know the maintenance history, or do you know the oil change history and what type of oil and filters were used since it was new?

[Meeni]

After further test driving for 3 days with some cold starts, it seems that the issue of rough idle and "stalling" when decelerating is fixed. The quality of the acceleration from low RPM is also greatly improved, feels like a lot more torque.

Car was bought CPO while still under factory warranty and maintenance plan. As far as I know it received all mandated maintenance. When the valve cover gasket was done at 65k, the technician had nothing special to report. I did OCI interval too. I used M1 5w30 which is not a proper fitment between 70 and 80kmiles, it created some sludging that resolved itself quickly when switching to the correct oil thereafter. At some point in the last 5k miles, the oil filter bypass valve broke so it ran on unfiltered oil.

Now I am looking at the source of the ground material, according to that plan


The metal sand cannot come from the intake vanos system, because the intake solenoid (2) was always clean. It cannot come from the main oil feed because the filter, the drain plug and the exhaust filter (5) were all clean. So it must come from the top of the oil feed line above the filter (6).

What is exactly up there ? Should I be worried about my timing chain slapping all around the place or something else nasty like that ?

[neyshule]

filter replaced, still shake like crap.......

[ae0622]

Guys,

I got a P1553 code during a cold start up during cold weather. There were no symptoms besides a slight hesitation in acceleration.

I researched and found out it's the solenoids. I removed and cleaned them. After i reinstalled them, IT CREATED A ROUGH IDLE ON STARTUP. Cold start ups are better than warm start ups.

Is there a chance it's the connectors to the solenoids or just a bad solenoid?

2006 325i

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

I wish mine were that easy. I had them replaced because I had the p0015 error codes. Drove fine for about 500 miles, now it's back. The Indy doesn't know what else to do. When I had it in to the dealer, they can't find the error. . .

You probably need to use an engine flush and change the oil. Then clean the new solenoids out by soaking them in gas for 30 min and then blowing them out with compressed air. A little brake cleaner never hurt either.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ae0622

Guys,

I got a P1553 code during a cold start up during cold weather. There were no symptoms besides a slight hesitation in acceleration.

I researched and found out it's the solenoids. I removed and cleaned them. After i reinstalled them, IT CREATED A ROUGH IDLE ON STARTUP. Cold start ups are better than warm start ups.

Is there a chance it's the connectors to the solenoids or just a bad solenoid?

2006 325i

Did you swap them in terms of position (exhaust and intake)?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Meeni

After further test driving for 3 days with some cold starts, it seems that the issue of rough idle and "stalling" when decelerating is fixed. The quality of the acceleration from low RPM is also greatly improved, feels like a lot more torque.

Car was bought CPO while still under factory warranty and maintenance plan. As far as I know it received all mandated maintenance. When the valve cover gasket was done at 65k, the technician had nothing special to report. I did OCI interval too. I used M1 5w30 which is not a proper fitment between 70 and 80kmiles, it created some sludging that resolved itself quickly when switching to the correct oil thereafter. At some point in the last 5k miles, the oil filter bypass valve broke so it ran on unfiltered oil.

Now I am looking at the source of the ground material, according to that plan


The metal sand cannot come from the intake vanos system, because the intake solenoid (2) was always clean. It cannot come from the main oil feed because the filter, the drain plug and the exhaust filter (5) were all clean. So it must come from the top of the oil feed line above the filter (6).

What is exactly up there ? Should I be worried about my timing chain slapping all around the place or something else nasty like that ?

Did you see the diy where parts 5 & 6 were replaced??

[moapys]

Good-news/Bad-news, and a question: The good; cleaning one of the two filters (top) appears to have FINALLY cleared a persistent vanos code! The bad...it was filthy - so I expect that its twin beneath it is gunked-too, but it is *frozen* in place... No amount of soaking and gentle "percussive-persuasion" worked, and eventually the soft aluminum torx became stripped. I'll not be able to pull and clean this one now :-(

The question: Since it is recessed, and seemingly infeasible to drill out; 'any ideas on extraction? The (former) hex hole seems too shallow for an "easy-out" tap. What else might I try to remove this bugger, without introducing aluminum shavings to the lube system?!?! THANKS folks!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by moapys

Good-news/Bad-news, and a question: The good; cleaning one of the two filters (top) appears to have FINALLY cleared a persistent vanos code! The bad...it was filthy - so I expect that its twin beneath it is gunked-too, but it is *frozen* in place... No amount of soaking and gentle "percussive-persuasion" worked, and eventually the soft aluminum torx became stripped. I'll not be able to pull and clean this one now :-(

The question: Since it is recessed, and seemingly infeasible to drill out; 'any ideas on extraction? The (former) hex hole seems too shallow for an "easy-out" tap. What else might I try to remove this bugger, without introducing aluminum shavings to the lube system?!?! THANKS folks!

I can't remember Torx size. But maybe try:
(a) the next larger sized Torx. Hammer it in and use an impact wrench.
(b) determine the correct size drill (bit) and get a lefthand drill. Start drilling (counter clockwise) it and maybe the drill will eventually rotate the filer/valve out.

(c) it is the cylinderhead, so you don't really want to fuck it up. Maybe leave it alone and try several cycles of engine gunk removal chemicals.

IIRC when I changed mine, I removed the right front wheel and fender liner to get a straight shot at them. I know I used my butterfly impact wrench on them to remove.