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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > DPF Cleaner (Additive)



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      02-22-2012, 11:13 AM   #23
IanS100
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Do the people running on V-Power see any difference in mpg?
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      02-22-2012, 11:18 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
Best to let BP describe why higher cetane makes for better, more complete combustion.




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Thanks Pete

I gave up on v-power a while back because of the hesitation on light throttle at certain RPM. Don't know why that was.
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      02-22-2012, 11:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spirocheter View Post
+1!

Fuel additives are supposed to degrade catalytic elements from what I can remember reading, though I suspect many members have used the likes of Millers and not had any problems. Certainly I doubt infrequent use is likely to cause any damage, that said I was poised to buy a bulk load of the stuff from Ebay then decided against it. Ultimately if the problem is not solved, I'd certainly look at DPF removal as opposed to replacement. There is a thread on here somewhere if you search, the effects seem largely desirable, though keep your old DPF in case of future change in emissions for MOTs. I think they can be 'recharged' by cleaning off the car... ??do I remember jet washing them.
Yeha ive read this also, last resort i think! I wont be going for a DPF removal as i dont want to be driving an old smokey again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squintstream View Post
Have you checked the hidden gauge to check what temperature the car is reaching?

A regen won't happen unless the car gets hot enough.
I have indeed sir, sits at around 78c, and although this seems low, it should be over the 75c needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckethead View Post
the 3.0d will have to be doing 80 mph plus for the engine to be working hard enough

how fast where you going was it a no stop trip
I think i was mainly at 70 to be fair, even set my cruise control to this

Quote:
Originally Posted by IanS100 View Post
I also read somewhere that it should be at a fairly constant throttle as easing off at all lowers the dpf temperature and effectively stops the regeneration process.
This i agree, i did a good 20miles at a cruise controlled 70mph

Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
Absolutely, thats why i struggle to maintain stable temps on some of the a-roads i drive, loads of hills and off throttle slowing down.

Thats why m-way is always best as it's constant throttle and decent loading.

I know people with new thermostats are getting 90c straight off the bat. Mine does low to mid 80's-c but off throttle or slow town stuff it can easily fall into the 70's.

I'm contemplating whether to get my thermostats changed. Even tho the DPF is still purging, it's on the bubble.


-- I believe OP posted in another thread that his temps are just above the 78c required to start a DPF purge, i guarantee like mine, it will be falling below that level in less than perfect conditions. I think he's already tried a m-way drive. Perhaps a forced regen is the only way to go.
This is correct, i fear the forced regen may be the only way!

Ive bitten the bullet and booked myself into a garage (Colin Woods, BMW Specialist) to see what they think the issue is and quoted me as being able to sort the regen and take away the light taking no longer then 2 hours max and costing circa £100

I can live with that!

Especially when my local dealer charges £120 an hour... Plus vat!!




Fingers crossed!
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      02-22-2012, 12:20 PM   #26
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Good luck, keep us updated!
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      02-23-2012, 07:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
Thanks Pete

I gave up on v-power a while back because of the hesitation on light throttle at certain RPM. Don't know why that was.
BP Ultimate Diesel is the best imo. Plus they back up there claims with tests/stats (unlike Shell).

I run Shell fuel save if I cannot get BP Ult.
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      02-25-2012, 04:06 PM   #28
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Well its been a couple of days now so i thought id post where i am currently!

I spoke to a few garages about different techniques of clearing a DPF. One bmw specialist told me they didnt want to force a regen as itll run whilst the car was stationary as i posted in a video in here.

They said they either replace the filter or put some cleaner in the tank and charge me 2hours labour for the honour.

A well trusted friend who has a garage also told me the same!

So i bit the bullet and purchased the forte dpt cleaner, with baited breath i poured it in!

I then headed to my nearest motorway 30miles away. The light came on as i expected, but before joinig the motorway i pulles into the services and cleared the codes (i did this with the engine running for the first time... Wether this helped i dont know?)i then did around 40miles at a constant 80leptons and guess what.... The light has not returned!

Only a smell of eggy crap and the dpf cleaner! So hoping thia has cleared it out!

Ive since done an extra 70miles with no light so 110 all in!

So ive paid ten pounds for bmw specialist to read and clear several codes and 15 pounds for the dpf xleaner and fingers crossed all is well!

Also just to add im seeing 83/84 on my temp now in 6th as opposed to the 78 i reached in 4th
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      02-25-2012, 04:09 PM   #29
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Wow crap spelling sorry folks, fat fingers and htc sensation does not mix!
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      02-26-2012, 11:28 AM   #30
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i don't the hard facts but when dpf warning light comes on the ecu stops all normal regens

theres something about a hard motorway run 80+, which causes enough heat in the dpf to cause a burn off & clear the dpf.

as i've said this is imo but its what i've used to clear my dpf warning light
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      02-26-2012, 11:34 AM   #31
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Finger crossed mate.

The eggy smell is coming from the catalytic converter likely due to the DPF treatment and it isn't burning it off completely. Sounds all good so far but occasionally keep giving your engine a boot through the gears to clear it all out and that smell should disappear and then hopefully everything will be OK.
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      02-27-2012, 03:52 PM   #32
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Bought some JLM DPF Cleaner today, in the hope it might magically fix everything

So far I've done 70mi @ 80mph with that in the tank (I think it went in the tank, but the nozzle didn't quite fit )

The light appeared after the first 10mi, but that was expected. I'm hoping it's begun cleaning the DPF in some way, even if it wouldn't do a full/normal regen.

I'll be able to clear the codes and check temps and pressures later this week, but I'll need to keep using the car as my daily drive until then.

Anyone know what backpressure I should be seeing in DIS as standard? I'm thinking it may actually be a broken sensor rather than simply a clogged filter alone.

Dean
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      02-28-2012, 01:55 PM   #33
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just bought some granville DPF cleaner also at 15quid
just as a maintenance/percautionary measure,so il give it a go and keep all up to date,
car running perfect and havnt seen dpf light yet and im hopeing to keep it that way,
with this additive and odd blast when car warms up,as i only do 6-7mile runs usually and odd 30-40 mile run,

bmw09 320d e90 lci

how often would this car regenerate?
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      02-28-2012, 02:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearse9000rpm View Post
just bought some granville DPF cleaner also at 15quid
just as a maintenance/percautionary measure,so il give it a go and keep all up to date,
car running perfect and havnt seen dpf light yet and im hopeing to keep it that way,
with this additive and odd blast when car warms up,as i only do 6-7mile runs usually and odd 30-40 mile run,

bmw09 320d e90 lci

how often would this car regenerate?
Not sure you should use this if you don't have a problem? Your car will regen at least every 2-3 tankfulls or maybe every tank. They are quite hard to spot.
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      02-28-2012, 02:23 PM   #35
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99% of dpf cleaners all manufactures etc
say
'PREVENTS DPF BLOCKING'

so i would of thought it would be good maintenace wise

as car has 101,000 miles

does these cars have DPF fluid
does this have to be changed?
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      02-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #36
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If you have that many miles on an lci, I assume it's done lots of long quite long journeys? Your DPF should be quite clean then

They are Sealed units I think.

Guess the question about DPF cleaner, is what else is is doing to your entire system? As a one-off clean it is I am sure fine..but more often?
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Last edited by TMP; 02-28-2012 at 03:37 PM.. Reason: Typos
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      02-28-2012, 03:08 PM   #37
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Agree with above, i will use it in instances such as this, but i dont think id use it all the time!
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      02-28-2012, 03:51 PM   #38
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yes ex finance hsbc bank manager car,never left the motorway,
100k in 3 years lol
yeah doing it as one off just to keep dpf top notch
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      02-28-2012, 04:02 PM   #39
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So, cable arrived. Only took a day! It took almost as long for me to work out how to use the f'ing software on Windows 7.

Anyway,

Codes read @ 9pm:

A6D1 / 21
480A / 71
481A / 71
41F2 / 04
D813 / 21

Drove 40mi, 80mph - light on dash did not appear.

Codes read @ 9:50pm:

480A / 41


So, now I do a bit of googling work out what they meant / mean.

Dean
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      02-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #40
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fingers crossed that will have sorted you out Dean!
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      02-28-2012, 04:29 PM   #41
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Great, so.. removing the completely irrelevant error about the Cabin electric fan, and Cabin auxiliary coolant pump
A6D1 / 21
41F2 / 04


I'm left with:
480A / 71 - DPF
481A / 71 - DPF
D813 / 21 -

Any ideas what D813 means?

And what does the number after the code mean? It was labelled "Kind of error", although it's referred to Logistic Counter elsewhere...


Dean
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      02-28-2012, 04:31 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny.B. View Post
fingers crossed that will have sorted you out Dean!

Hope so!

Thanks for the help everyone :-)
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      02-29-2012, 04:10 AM   #43
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Just picked this up at the 5er forum...

Quote:
My experience with DPF on E60 2004MY. The main problems with DPF (with 3 cars in my practice) filter coming from bad thermostats. After thermostat exchange I connect DIS and see the same situation (Filter regeneration requested, Regeneration not active, Back pressure 60Mbar, in idle car into LIMP mode ). In driving cycle the regeneration can’t start and exhaust gas temperature after cat is 260-300 deg. My solution (without any mechanical works): driving speed aprox. 60km/h with low rpm. and constantly erase the fault memory of DDE. After 5-10 min the exhaust gas temperature after CAT is 620 deg. and regeneration goes to active phase (in this moment is possible decrease the speed to 40km/h). After 30 min of drive regeneration is complete.
Sounds like he speaks from experience, and I expect the slow speeds he's keeping to is purely so that this method works in limp mode.

I expect running at low RPM may hinder the cars ability to sense the high backpressure, meaning it will initiate a self-regen.

Might be an option for those who don't want to buy an additive?
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      03-02-2012, 11:48 AM   #44
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All sorted then Dean?
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