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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Cosmetic and Lighting Modifications (exterior/interior) > Anyone done an E9x HEATED STEERING WHEEL retrofit?



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      02-27-2018, 10:40 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamesfrager View Post
Hello everyone. Sorry for reviving a bit of an old thread, but this is the only I found online for E90.
My car is 2011 328i (LCI) and here in Calgary it gets really cold. I already bought a non-sport wheel with the heating module.
So I was thinking I just need to put in the airbag from original wheel, but now reading this thread; it seems that a clockspring for heated wheels is required (part# 61319169765) is this correct?
There is no way to keep existing clockspring and figure out the wiring?

Also, if anyone knows somebody here in Calgary that would do it, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Don’t think on your own. Follow instructions and buy the parts user “ptpending” listed. You must have the clock spring and those other parts.
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      02-27-2018, 11:05 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamesfrager View Post
Hello everyone. Sorry for reviving a bit of an old thread, but this is the only I found online for E90.
My car is 2011 328i (LCI) and here in Calgary it gets really cold. I already bought a non-sport wheel with the heating module.
So I was thinking I just need to put in the airbag from original wheel, but now reading this thread; it seems that a clockspring for heated wheels is required (part# 61319169765) is this correct?
There is no way to keep existing clockspring and figure out the wiring?

Also, if anyone knows somebody here in Calgary that would do it, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
The DIY is clearly posted in this thread, there shouldn't be any confusion and there is no magical way to make it work without the correct parts.
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      02-28-2018, 12:29 AM   #91
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Thank you guys for the confirmation. I was getting confused about the other threads saying you can get the power from the extra pins on the airbag connector.

I have contacted a couple of shops here in Calgary, hoping that someone can finish it up.
Otherwise I'll have to sell this wheel. Again, appreciate the help.
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      03-01-2018, 08:35 AM   #92
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If you don't mind me asking, why do we need custom harness?
Isn't buying a clockspring for heated wheel that has the wire with the blue connector at the end, heated wheel, and the button with wire enough to connect everything?

Sorry, when it comes to wires I'm always confused and need pictured step by step.

Thanks.
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      03-01-2018, 11:28 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamesfrager View Post
If you don't mind me asking, why do we need custom harness?
Isn't buying a clockspring for heated wheel that has the wire with the blue connector at the end, heated wheel, and the button with wire enough to connect everything?

Sorry, when it comes to wires I'm always confused and need pictured step by step.

Thanks.
Why don’t you read all pages? And if you did and don’t trust the guide and comments here then one more comment probably won’t help. But let me try anyway helpful as I am.. You need 10A from fusebox or auxiliary outlet. There is no prewired connector behind the clockspring. And don’t forget other parts like lower cover and switch for heated steering.
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      03-01-2018, 02:07 PM   #94
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i can prepare and sell parts necessary to finish this retrofit
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      03-01-2018, 09:05 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagsfjord View Post
Why don’t you read all pages? And if you did and don’t trust the guide and comments here then one more comment probably won’t help. But let me try anyway helpful as I am.. You need 10A from fusebox or auxiliary outlet. There is no prewired connector behind the clockspring. And don’t forget other parts like lower cover and switch for heated steering.
Thanks. It's not that I don't trust the comments, it's just not a step-by-step guide and I'm more of a visual guy. I do appreciate all the info and help everyone is providing.

If I ever do manage to do this project; I'll post a guide with step-by-step (maybe video?!).
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      03-03-2018, 11:15 AM   #96
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Thanks, ptpending. PM sent.
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      04-15-2018, 01:25 AM   #97
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E90 heated sport wheel with shift paddles.
Project goal: rewrap the steering wheel so it looks like the M sport.
Is it possible to rewrap a heated steering wheel and not lose its functionality?
Has anyone attempted this or know of a place that will do it?

Last edited by lknbimmers; 04-15-2018 at 08:42 PM..
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      04-15-2018, 02:31 AM   #98
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I had my heated non-sport wheel restitched to thicker material and try color stitching. Still works great.
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      04-15-2018, 09:12 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Nafy View Post
I had my heated non-sport wheel restitched to thicker material and try color stitching. Still works great.
Who did the restitch on your wheel? Was it done in leather?
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      04-17-2018, 03:35 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nafy View Post
I had my heated non-sport wheel restitched to thicker material and try color stitching. Still works great.
Did you do this yourself? Was the new leather laid on top of the existing wheel or did they remove the old leather first? I've been struggling to find a solution for my heated sport wheel.
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      04-17-2018, 07:54 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
Did you do this yourself? Was the new leather laid on top of the existing wheel or did they remove the old leather first? I've been struggling to find a solution for my heated sport wheel.
I’m facing the same dilemma.
Love the look of the m sport and M3 wheels but either of them come heated.

Jeff at Royal Steering wheels will rewrap a heated steering wheel but won’t guarantee the heat function will work.
They remove the existing leather, not wrap over it.
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      04-18-2018, 12:21 AM   #102
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I think an "easy" or approximate way to find out; is to buy one of those "cheap" steering wheel covers and see how that would affect the heat.
Then return it on the spot
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      07-26-2018, 10:51 PM   #103
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I have done it.
I went from m-sport to sport heated. I refused my DCT paddles that work differently than auto and I reused my m-sport trim with buttons.

Then I bought lower trim cover with heated button.

Then I bought clockspring with switches as this is how they usually sell it on ebay. You can recognize heated clockspring by looking for blue connector. But don't replace the switches midule. They contains SZL module that will require coding and calibration if you do that.
I replaced my +-1mph cruise control stalk with +-1 and 5mph though. In the and I didn't get +-5mph feature as I think it requires 544 option coding which I may perform in the future.


I have not buy any connectors except for Fuse tap. I had some tiny computer connector, to which I soldered two 18awg wires.
I stole wires from my office.

I didn't know which part number is the 12pin heated clockspring connector, so I ghetto it by shaving of a plastic table from existing 6pin plug and sticking it in along with 3 pin connector from the heated switch (after soldiering its ground to my main ground wire) and along my tiny (black) computer connector next to it.

So in total I fitted 3 connectors in this heated 12 pin socket with a drop of hot glue to secure it. Ghetto, but it works. Tiny connector doesn't overheat and it doesn't add much resistance as it is not long distance.

+12 you can get from fuse box. I though I could do it properly by basically adding anither fuse there and connecting on the back of fuse box (junction box), but good luck with removing the fuse box.. I ended up doing what everyone does which is tapping into a fuse slot. I used #5 slot. But it doesn't matter. There is many that are ignition triggered. I also tried accessory slots and it work all the time, but in the end ignition one is also good (it is active after one press of start button, engine doesn't have to run).
It's good to remove climate control trim to route the cable. Don't brake the plastic panel trim. It's fragile. Just don't brake it.

I found relatively good ground next to driver left leg. You have to remove the lowet cover where legs go and there will be one screw holding upper knee panel to steel frame. I shaved a bit of paint from the screw for better contact and added ground tab there.
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Last edited by dzid_; 07-26-2018 at 11:07 PM..
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      11-28-2018, 01:21 PM   #104
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Red face Any Wagon guys do this?

just did this mod on my e91 and after much idiocy, got everything working perfectly. I did have to reset the clock spring with ista of course, but outside of that it was fairly easy. We struggled hard getting my original airbag off from the inboard spring release (no idea why). Thanks for all the posts to others who did this first. By far the most useful mod I've done so far!

Last edited by BurtMacklin; 11-28-2018 at 02:30 PM.. Reason: I'm an idiot
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      12-12-2018, 03:58 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMASIAN View Post
Seems like aside form the wheel, the column trim and button are required...

Anything else?

I've only found tutorials of older gens using x3 wheels...
Mine came with a heated steering wheel luckily 11' e90
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      04-08-2019, 10:33 PM   #106
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Where does the heated steering wheel in a 2011 e90 regularly draw power from? Just wondering if i could possibly tap into that instead of giving up something. Thanks
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      08-23-2019, 04:43 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coochmon View Post
Thanks! I actually finished the wiring about 8 days ago and I'm enjoying my stock looking heated wheel. It's awesome on cold mornings. I found an empty fuse slot to tap into (switched with ignition of course). I just fished around in the fuse box with my tap and a multimeter until I found one that turned off with the key. I used a fish tape to pull wires under the dash over to the fuse box. Not hugely happy with my ground wire, which is going to the chassis via a good sized trim screw under/next to the glove box. I used 16 gauge wires. It's funny though, the connector wires are so tiny that I worried about having that much power go through, but from what I researched it's OK for very short distances.

One tricky thing is the switch connector (4 pins) uses only 3 pins, and isn't labeled, so I assumed pin 4 was the one not used and inferred the pin numbering from that, turned out correct.
Hello Coochmon, could you tell the exact fuse in the A4010 fuse box you tapped the heated steering wheel into, please?
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