Brake pads

aaron_ · 06-15-2016, 05:22 AM

So the akebono ceramics have 0 squeal for the 335i?

I heard the same about the brakes for my e46 325ci, they squeaked when cold.....

89mustaine · 07-14-2016, 06:59 PM

Why is every mechanic I talk to telling me I need to change the rotors as well as the pads? My car has 112k on it (E60 535i) The front rotors don't seem to have an excessive lip or anything, I doubt they are original rotors but I'm not sure how long since they were changed. How can I tell if I need to change them?

CYL · 07-14-2016, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89mustaine

Why is every mechanic I talk to telling me I need to change the rotors as well as the pads? My car has 112k on it (E60 535i) The front rotors don't seem to have an excessive lip or anything, I doubt they are original rotors but I'm not sure how long since they were changed. How can I tell if I need to change them?

I recalled someone said that BMW recommends changing the pads and rotors together.
Not sure.

Digitalism · 07-14-2016, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89mustaine

Why is every mechanic I talk to telling me I need to change the rotors as well as the pads? My car has 112k on it (E60 535i) The front rotors don't seem to have an excessive lip or anything, I doubt they are original rotors but I'm not sure how long since they were changed. How can I tell if I need to change them?

Measure the thickness.

89mustaine · 07-15-2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CYL

I recalled someone said that BMW recommends changing the pads and rotors together.
Not sure.

This is what I've been told as well but seems like there are a lot of people simply changing pads, maybe rotors every other time. My car stops great no wiggle or pulling, I'm sure the rotors are in good shape so I'm just not sure its worth it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Digitalism

Measure the thickness.

What should it be?

If I changed the pads and there was some wiggle would it ruin the pads before I could get new rotors on as well?

Trev88 · 07-15-2016, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89mustaine

This is what I've been told as well but seems like there are a lot of people simply changing pads, maybe rotors every other time. My car stops great no wiggle or pulling, I'm sure the rotors are in good shape so I'm just not sure its worth it.

What should it be?

If I changed the pads and there was some wiggle would it ruin the pads before I could get new rotors on as well?

My recommended rotors and brake pads changed so I would just follow their recommendations as a preventive measure. Also been told to change front and rears together by peeps on the forum. Always listen to the pros haha cos I'm the news here

Grohouse · 07-31-2016, 10:18 PM

A new rotor will ensure its surface is completely flat and parallel with the pad you intend to replace. A used rotor will have some small peaks and imperfections. Replacing only the pads will force it to conform to these imperfections on the rotor reducing braking performance. As a result you transfer these imperfection to your new pads which can limit their life.

If there is a enough meat on your rotor I would at least 're-surface' on a lath to get the rotor flat. However, this may cost up to $80 - you can buy a set of new German made Zimmerman rotors for $150 from Clickable Automotive which perform quite well.

MJ80. · 07-31-2016, 10:34 PM

What ever happened to those cheap 2 peice drilled rotors bmr used to sell, they were well priced and looked great.

CYL · 07-31-2016, 11:56 PM

I read that the stock rotor has a softer surface and thus enhancing the braking performance, that's why BMW recommends changing them with the pads.
But if we go aftermarket rotors and pads, is it really needed to change both at the same time?
If so, I feel sorry for those ECS 2 piece rotor which costs $1000 per pair...

Grohouse · 08-01-2016, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CYL

I read that the stock rotor has a softer surface and thus enhancing the braking performance, that's why BMW recommends changing them with the pads.
But if we go aftermarket rotors and pads, is it really needed to change both at the same time?
If so, I feel sorry for those ECS 2 piece rotor which costs $1000 per pair...

Its not absolutely necessary - its a recommendation. Change the pads and see how it feels. If the braking performance is smooth then the proof is in the pudding. If the braking is not to your satisfaction then you know you may need new rotors. Easy job to do at home with a tool set.

Socket · 08-01-2016, 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJ80.

What ever happened to those cheap 2 peice drilled rotors bmr used to sell, they were well priced and looked great.

No longer listed on BMR but these are the same

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335I-Cou...QtLiTg&vxp=mtr

Socket · 08-01-2016, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grohouse

Its not absolutely necessary - its a recommendation. Change the pads and see how it feels. If the braking performance is smooth then the proof is in the pudding. If the braking is not to your satisfaction then you know you may need new rotors. Easy job to do at home with a tool set.

Welcome to the forum Grohouse

Grohouse · 08-01-2016, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Socket

Welcome to the forum Grohouse

Thanks champ

EB89 · 08-01-2016, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron_

So the akebono ceramics have 0 squeal for the 335i?

I heard the same about the brakes for my e46 325ci, they squeaked when cold.....

No one answered you, I have Akebonos and there is no squeal.

I have DBA rotors as well, not sure what causes squeal but these two together dont.

JASE335 · 08-01-2016, 10:39 PM

Brake squeal is more than likely the pads moving in the calliper. Some "CRC disc brake quiet" gel on the back of the pad should stop it. 12 minute mark on the clip below.

aaron_ · 08-02-2016, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB89

No one answered you, I have Akebonos and there is no squeal.

I have DBA rotors as well, not sure what causes squeal but these two together dont.

Oh that's good

Link to the dba rotors?

EB89 · 08-03-2016, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron_

Oh that's good

Link to the dba rotors?

I put these on

The T3 4000, they are 1 piece rotors
http://www.dba.com.au/products/clubspec-t/4000-t3/

There is one step higher T3 5000 that are 2 piece
http://www.dba.com.au/products/clubspec-t/5000-t3/

Here it is on my car

aaron_ · 08-03-2016, 07:33 AM

Love the look EB! Perfect!!

Where did you buy the rotors from? Do they (either the 4000 or 5000) offer better performance from stock? Did you need to upgrade brake lines? Same pedal feel? Initial bite? Fade (I guess not so relevant on the street)? Cold performance?

EB89 · 08-04-2016, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron_

Love the look EB! Perfect!!

Where did you buy the rotors from? Do they (either the 4000 or 5000) offer better performance from stock? Did you need to upgrade brake lines? Same pedal feel? Initial bite? Fade (I guess not so relevant on the street)? Cold performance?

I got them from super cheap auto haha, they had to order them in.

They are a DBA reseller so you can get the 5000 from them too.

To be honest I don't ever feel much different in changes, I felt nothing adding the JB4 and catless downpipe, nothing changing from run flats to Pilot super sports and no change adding these, I'm not the best person to ask here I must not pay attention or I get used to the difference very quickly.

I changed the brake lines to stainless steer ER ones, you don't have to.

I think these are very much a stock replacement, possibly better heat dispersion and cleaning with the indents etc but who knows.

It's not a BBK that's for sure.

I am happy with them though

aaron_ · 08-18-2016, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB89

I got them from super cheap auto haha, they had to order them in.

They are a DBA reseller so you can get the 5000 from them too.

To be honest I don't ever feel much different in changes, I felt nothing adding the JB4 and catless downpipe, nothing changing from run flats to Pilot super sports and no change adding these, I'm not the best person to ask here I must not pay attention or I get used to the difference very quickly.

I changed the brake lines to stainless steer ER ones, you don't have to.

I think these are very much a stock replacement, possibly better heat dispersion and cleaning with the indents etc but who knows.

It's not a BBK that's for sure.

I am happy with them though

can you pm me how much you paid for the front and rear 4000 rotors. don't need them yet but ill just have them sitting and waiting. got some akebonos already.....

EB89 · 08-18-2016, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron_

can you pm me how much you paid for the front and rear 4000 rotors. don't need them yet but ill just have them sitting and waiting. got some akebonos already.....

Got them from supercheap,

Fronts were $400, I didnt record how much the rears were, would be a little less I should think, if not the same price.

Call your local supercheap and get a quote

aaron_ · 09-16-2016, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Socket

No longer listed on BMR but these are the same

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335I-Cou...QtLiTg&vxp=mtr

so its time for new rear brakes. pads are deffinitley the akebono ceramics, oem sensor, just not sure about the disc

have you used these discs personally socks? what do you think of them? I know theyre for 07-10 but I'm sure they'll have em for an 11+ as well

I'm after a cross drilled or slotted (for looks) rotor that will offer equal or slightly better performance than stock when paired with akebono's. must have 0 squeal as it absolutely cracks me. I know eb said the DBA work 100%, any other options?

06-15-2016, 05:22 AM	#23
aaron_ Captain 90 Rep 671 Posts Drives: E93 335i LCI Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Sydney iTrader: (0)	So the akebono ceramics have 0 squeal for the 335i? I heard the same about the brakes for my e46 325ci, they squeaked when cold.....
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-14-2016, 06:59 PM	#24
89mustaine Stuff and Things 39 Rep 103 Posts Drives: E60 535i Sport W/SAT MHD Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Chico CA iTrader: (0)	Why is every mechanic I talk to telling me I need to change the rotors as well as the pads? My car has 112k on it (E60 535i) The front rotors don't seem to have an excessive lip or anything, I doubt they are original rotors but I'm not sure how long since they were changed. How can I tell if I need to change them?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2016, 10:18 PM	#29
Grohouse Private 12 Rep 91 Posts Drives: BMW e90 325i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Adelaide iTrader: (0)	A new rotor will ensure its surface is completely flat and parallel with the pad you intend to replace. A used rotor will have some small peaks and imperfections. Replacing only the pads will force it to conform to these imperfections on the rotor reducing braking performance. As a result you transfer these imperfection to your new pads which can limit their life. If there is a enough meat on your rotor I would at least 're-surface' on a lath to get the rotor flat. However, this may cost up to $80 - you can buy a set of new German made Zimmerman rotors for $150 from Clickable Automotive which perform quite well.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2016, 10:34 PM	#30
MJ80. Major 204 Rep 1,103 Posts Drives: E92 335i DCT Individual Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Australia. iTrader: (0)	What ever happened to those cheap 2 peice drilled rotors bmr used to sell, they were well priced and looked great.
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07-31-2016, 11:56 PM	#31
CYL Major 129 Rep 1,382 Posts Drives: E92 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	I read that the stock rotor has a softer surface and thus enhancing the braking performance, that's why BMW recommends changing them with the pads. But if we go aftermarket rotors and pads, is it really needed to change both at the same time? If so, I feel sorry for those ECS 2 piece rotor which costs $1000 per pair...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2016, 10:39 PM	#37
JASE335 Private 26 Rep 74 Posts Drives: 335i E90 2008 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sydney iTrader: (0)	Brake squeal is more than likely the pads moving in the calliper. Some "CRC disc brake quiet" gel on the back of the pad should stop it. 12 minute mark on the clip below. __________________ 2008 (pre LCI) 335i E90 6AT Sapphire Black- MHD Wedge Custom E60 Map - Fuel It Stage 2 LPFP - Alpina Trans Flash - AFE Stage 2 Intake - RB Inlets & Outlets - Wagner Performance Intercooler - BMS catch can, RB PCV Valve - Whiteline Rear Subframe Bushings - Dunlop Sportmaxx RT - M3 219M 18" Wheels - Akebono Ceramic Pads - M3 Steering Wheel & M3 DCT Paddles - M3 LCI Novillo leather full interior
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08-03-2016, 07:33 AM	#40
aaron_ Captain 90 Rep 671 Posts Drives: E93 335i LCI Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Sydney iTrader: (0)	Love the look EB! Perfect!! Where did you buy the rotors from? Do they (either the 4000 or 5000) offer better performance from stock? Did you need to upgrade brake lines? Same pedal feel? Initial bite? Fade (I guess not so relevant on the street)? Cold performance?
	Appreciate 0 Quote