[Cyless]

I have been trying to figure this problem out for a long time but whenever I go on the highway after awhile the car will go in limp mode for some reason, today the car went into limp mode and gave me 30FC, 3100, 2AA1. I can usually trip it when Im cruising at 80~ Mph on the highway then when I push into the throttle more it'll stutter/hesitate then go into limp mode.

Here are 3 datalogs that are down my street and not on a highway.
The main maintenance things I have down are plugs, coils, ledges, cleaned valves. The car is completely stock aside from DCI and currently running on MHD stage 0.

Im maybe thinking injectors because I have Bank 1 index 9s but bank 2 one index 9 and two index 12s.
Log 1
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/my-...og=0&data=3-24

Log 2
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/dat...og=0&data=3-24

Log 3
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/dat...og=0&data=3-24

[marvinstockman]

I can't fix your problem, but when it goes into limp mode turn the engine off and then right back on, and you'll probably come out of limp mode, that is until the computer senses the problem again. But you'll get home.

[marvinstockman]

Note, if you're good and quick, you don't even have to pull over!

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

Note, if you're good and quick, you don't even have to pull over!

Yeah that's what I did to get it home.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

I have been trying to figure this problem out for a long time but whenever I go on the highway after awhile the car will go in limp mode for some reason, today the car went into limp mode and gave me 30FC, 3100, 2AA1. I can usually trip it when Im cruising at 80~ Mph on the highway then when I push into the throttle more it'll stutter/hesitate then go into limp mode.

Here are 3 datalogs that are down my street and not on a highway.
The main maintenance things I have down are plugs, coils, ledges, cleaned valves. The car is completely stock aside from DCI and currently running on MHD stage 0.

Im maybe thinking injectors because I have Bank 1 index 9s but bank 2 one index 9 and two index 12s.
Log 1
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/my-...og=0&data=3-24

Log 2
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/dat...og=0&data=3-24

Log 3
https://datazap.me/u/cyless335xi/dat...og=0&data=3-24

Quite a few explanations for your problems but start with the simple stuff

First, you have a hard exhaust camshaft sensor error. (2AA1). IF IT IS A CURRENT ERROR, replace that sensor, it's cheap. It's possible (although perhaps not likely) that this is the primary problem but regardless it's clearly going to affect the operation of the engine. To determine if a code is current, clear the codes, re-start the engine, see which ones come back.

30FC is underpressure - could be vacuum leak to boost solenoid, the boost solenoid itself, the wastegate actuator or mechanism, a leak in the intake piping, a bad diverter valve. But start with the camshaft sensor.

Logs don't tell you much - fuel pressure look OK but not terrific, AFs normal, STFTs a little high but not crazy. The only oddity are timing corrections; consistent on on cylinders 2 and 4 and occasional on 3 and 5. They are modest corrections but there really shouldn't be any, certainly not on multiple cylinders or consistently and certainly not at only 7psi boost.

Are you saying you have new plugs and coils? Are they OEM components? When was replacement done?

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Quite a few explanations for your problems but start with the simple stuff

First, you have a hard exhaust camshaft sensor error. (2AA1). IF IT IS A CURRENT ERROR, replace that sensor, it's cheap. It's possible (although perhaps not likely) that this is the primary problem but regardless it's clearly going to affect the operation of the engine. To determine if a code is current, clear the codes, re-start the engine, see which ones come back.

30FC is underpressure - could be vacuum leak to boost solenoid, the boost solenoid itself, the wastegate actuator or mechanism, a leak in the intake piping, a bad diverter valve. But start with the camshaft sensor.

Logs don't tell you much - fuel pressure look OK but not terrific, AFs normal, STFTs a little high but not crazy. The only oddity are timing corrections; consistent on on cylinders 2 and 4 and occasional on 3 and 5. They are modest corrections but there really shouldn't be any, certainly not on multiple cylinders or consistently and certainly not at only 7psi boost.

Are you saying you have new plugs and coils? Are they OEM components? When was replacement done?

I have a set of 6 OEM Bosch Plugs bought off of ECS Tuning (Part#12120034087) and a set of High-Performance Ignition Coils also from ECS Tuning (ECS Part#3673202) and the replacement was done in March 2022. As for the corrections what would be some possible reasons on why there correcting like they are?

[Cyless]

Before I went to work today I checked the codes and nothing showed up so when I got out of work I went to the Highway did a 80-120 pull and was able to get the codes and limp mode to show up, but I didn't get a 2AA1 instead I only got a 30FC then when I got closer to home I did a vary small pull and got 30FF and misfire cylinder 3. So should I start off with all new vacuum lines?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

Before I went to work today I checked the codes and nothing showed up so when I got out of work I went to the Highway did a 80-120 pull and was able to get the codes and limp mode to show up, but I didn't get a 2AA1 instead I only got a 30FC then when I got closer to home I did a vary small pull and got 30FF and misfire cylinder 3. So should I start off with all new vacuum lines?

OK, so now the camshaft sensor can probably be eliminated from your list.

Looking at your logs again, I now notice you fail to meet boost target after the shift badly in the 1st log, show pretty low WGDC in all three and also have an odd and consistent double spike in AFR after letting off the throttle. It's hard to put all that together in a single cause and I suspect you have multiple issues. Index 9 injectors were certainly one of the most problematic series. Although you do not have the classic symptoms of injector leaking (smoke on cold startup, rough idle on cold startup, slow return of AFR to 234 when throttle lifted) I'd do what I could to investigate. That is, let the car sit overnight then pull the plugs from the cold engine and look for wetness/gas odor.


However, I doubt injectors are the sole explanation for your 30FC and 30FF, which are similar codes. The same set of possible causes I mentioned about apply:

Vacuum leak to boost solenoid
Boost solenoid itself
Wastegate actuator adjustment needed
Bad wastegate actuator
Sticking wastegate valve
Leak in the intake piping,
Bad diverter valve.

You could start by replacing vacuum lines; they are cheap. However, it's pretty easy to test them if you've got one of those inexpensive hand pump vacuum devices for brake bleeding. You can test the boost solenoid for leaks and the wastegate actuator the same way. Intake piping leak is best explored with smoke test.

Here's a link to a nice guide at dealing with this sort of issue;
https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...Fault-Code.pdf

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

OK, so now the camshaft sensor can probably be eliminated from your list.

Looking at your logs again, I now notice you fail to meet boost target after the shift badly in the 1st log, show pretty low WGDC in all three and also have an odd and consistent double spike in AFR after letting off the throttle. It's hard to put all that together in a single cause and I suspect you have multiple issues. Index 9 injectors were certainly one of the most problematic series. Although you do not have the classic symptoms of injector leaking (smoke on cold startup, rough idle on cold startup, slow return of AFR to 234 when throttle lifted) I'd do what I could to investigate. That is, let the car sit overnight then pull the plugs from the cold engine and look for wetness/gas odor.


However, I doubt injectors are the sole explanation for your 30FC and 30FF, which are similar codes. The same set of possible causes I mentioned about apply:

Vacuum leak to boost solenoid
Boost solenoid itself
Wastegate actuator adjustment needed
Bad wastegate actuator
Sticking wastegate valve
Leak in the intake piping,
Bad diverter valve.

You could start by replacing vacuum lines; they are cheap. However, it's pretty easy to test them if you've got one of those inexpensive hand pump vacuum devices for brake bleeding. You can test the boost solenoid for leaks and the wastegate actuator the same way. Intake piping leak is best explored with smoke test.

Here's a link to a nice guide at dealing with this sort of issue;
https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...Fault-Code.pdf

I went outside to check the vacuum lines and other connections and looks like i probably should replace them, I'm also ordering a vacuum pump to check the solenoids.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

I went outside to check the vacuum lines and other connections and looks like i probably should replace them, I'm also ordering a vacuum pump to check the solenoids.

Yes, that is nasty looking.

It's not necessary but for a longer lasting (essentially permanent) repair, use silicone-cured tubing. It can be obtained from many sources but here's where I got mine https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

Be careful pulling the hose off the intake manifold nipple - fairly easy to break it off. Also, remember there is lots more hose to replace: from vacuum pump to vacuum cannisters, cannisters to boost solenoids, solenoids to wastegate actuators.

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Yes, that is nasty looking.

It's not necessary but for a longer lasting (essentially permanent) repair, use silicone-cured tubing. It can be obtained from many sources but here's where I got mine https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

Be careful pulling the hose off the intake manifold nipple - fairly easy to break it off. Also, remember there is lots more hose to replace: from vacuum pump to vacuum cannisters, cannisters to boost solenoids, solenoids to wastegate actuators.

Yeah thats what I was gonna use, and I'm done replacing my index 9 injector and just need to code it in but for some reason my INPA is not working and I can't figure out why. my cable doesn't connect to INPA at all.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

Yeah thats what I was gonna use, and I'm done replacing my index 9 injector and just need to code it in but for some reason my INPA is not working and I can't figure out why. my cable doesn't connect to INPA at all.

Re-check com port latency - make sure it's 1ms

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Re-check com port latency - make sure it's 1ms

its on com port 1 and latency 1 and it still wont do connect to INPA, is it possible that its bad after 3 months?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

its on com port 1 and latency 1 and it still wont do connect to INPA, is it possible that its bad after 3 months?

Anything is possible although this seems unlikely. Screen shot of error messages

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Anything is possible although this seems unlikely. Screen shot of error messages

I got it to work and everything is coded now. When I get home from work ill check the boost solenoids and ill report back.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

I got it to work and everything is coded now. When I get home from work ill check the boost solenoids and ill report back.

That's good news!

Just a suggestion - when you solve a problem, particularly one that you've just asked for help on by announcing it in a post, it might very well be useful to other posters to report what you did to solve it.

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

That's good news!

Just a suggestion - when you solve a problem, particularly one that you've just asked for help on by announcing it in a post, it might very well be useful to other posters to report what you did to solve it.

I had to install some FTDI drivers but I'm not entirely sure that's what fixed my issue because I also messed around with the com port and latency with my cable. What's weird is that INPA still doesn't detect my cable but when I plug it into the car everything works, could be a bug or something but I'm just glad it works. As for my boost solenoids, I connected the handheld pump through the lines at the vacuum canisters and both appear to be leaking, I seen someone connect it through there and his seem to stay and not leak but if I did it wrong let me know.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Cyless

I had to install some FTDI drivers but I'm not entirely sure that's what fixed my issue because I also messed around with the com port and latency with my cable. What's weird is that INPA still doesn't detect my cable but when I plug it into the car everything works, could be a bug or something but I'm just glad it works. As for my boost solenoids, I connected the handheld pump through the lines at the vacuum canisters and both appear to be leaking, I seen someone connect it through there and his seem to stay and not leak but if I did it wrong let me know.

Those cannisters should not leak. You should be able to detect a vacuum in them (by pulling off a hose) many minutes or even hours after the engine has been stopped.

[Cyless]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Those cannisters should not leak. You should be able to detect a vacuum in them (by pulling off a hose) many minutes or even hours after the engine has been stopped.

Sorry for the late reply, I'm getting my vacuum lines and solenoids today and I'll let you know if the code still presists. Another thing, when I pulled out my cylinder 3 injector there was no decoupler on it, just the the injector and the decoupler wasn't still down there it was completely gone. How could it have just disappeared like that?

[Cyless]

This is long over due but recently I went on the highway and did a 80 to 120 pull and no codes came up and limp mode is fixed...For now. I'll report back if I have anymore issues.

Thanks