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      07-30-2022, 06:22 PM   #21055
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Not car related today but I did day one of my MSF course. The excitement and fun I had heavily outweighed the embarrassment that was me being the most inexperienced one there

Edit: I aced the test
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      07-30-2022, 07:51 PM   #21056
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Hi!

1) my power steering growl feels louder. I don't see any fluid leaks and the reservoir looks fine/full. Could be just my hypervigilence about required maintenance, but what should I be looking for if my power steering pump is on the way out? Also, do I need to concern myself with the power steering cooling line?

2) I have the Hi Fi stereo option with mids/tweeters in front and rear doors, along with the two subs (no dash speaker, no rear roof speakers).
- Question 1: are the door speakers 2 ohms or 4 ohms?
+++++++++
ANSWER: Looks like they are all 2ohm according this: https://ia801005.us.archive.org/11/i...munication.pdf

- Question 2: if I want to upgrade to add the dash speaker - is the wire going to be there or will I need to run it all the way to the back?
- Question 3: if I then want to add the rear roof speakers, can I just split the signal wire for the rear speakers on its way to the amp, convert it to RCA, then power those rear roof speakers with a separate amp?
- Question 4: based on all that e/n above - does this amp seem like a good place to start for the configuration I have now (and the addition of the center dash channel?)
AMP: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1941257

Bonus Content: here's a lil piccy of my e91 getting ready to head home from (rainy) Colorado:


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Last edited by fazm; 07-30-2022 at 09:36 PM..
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      07-30-2022, 11:00 PM   #21057
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Got my tires rebalanced by BMW, and the siren installed as well.

Vibration is still there - I'm thinking now it's an alignment issue. Car feels twitchy at speed and seems to turn in too quickly at low speeds. Looking at the alignment sheet the car was aligned to Active Steering specs (not equipped), wonder if that isn't the issue. Could anyone here shine some light on that?

Perhaps an issue with the toe angle? Going on Monday when the shop opens to have them at least check it and see what's going on. Some weird wear patterns on the sidewall as well. Literally every part in the suspension is brand new, so can't possibly be a worn suspension component.
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      08-01-2022, 08:38 AM   #21058
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Booked it in for an alignment, shop said the toe angle is probably a bit out of spec. Once the car is aligned properly, I'll do a Koni write up, seems like there have been a few questions about them here in the past month or so.

Fully coded the alarm in last night, car chirps with lock/unlock, but the alarm light still indicates an error. But at least it beeps now!

Edit: Well should’ve re-checked what I did. Need to code out the hood switch until I get the (ridiculously overpriced) hood switch bracket.

Last edited by Hoody007; 08-01-2022 at 12:06 PM..
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      08-01-2022, 10:25 AM   #21059
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Had a slight sputter so I swapped out coils and plugs, thanks fcp for allowing me to be cheap…, and sputter is gone. Was so happy, gave her a bath and a wax too. Who loves lifetime part replacement, this guy!!
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      08-01-2022, 09:59 PM   #21060
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Fished and spliced some new wires through the hatch strain relief to bring the diversity antenna, and my remote entry, back to life.

Thanks again e90post. Best repository of knowledge. Didn't take much to find my way to the problem.
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      08-02-2022, 03:08 PM   #21061
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I thought my logic 7 system was cool.
HK seems much better.
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      08-02-2022, 05:45 PM   #21062
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erp... Remote entry not fixed.

Perhaps it needs a new antenna module, and has needed one all along.

Thinking the wires were in bad shape, but had not yet failed. Then my pull test yanked the damaged wires apart. The intermittent failures of the module led me to the pull test which was destructive.

How often are the antenna module failures intermittent. Seems completely random. Either works normally with both fobs, or not at all with both fobs. Non-comfort car. Otherwise the locking system works entirely intended..
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      08-02-2022, 07:20 PM   #21063
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a 2h30 job turned into a 9h.

1 - car runs perfectly fine, but starting to have a small cover gasket leak. Oh well, I have 3h spare and 50$ for all gaskets and seals on the cover.

2 - did the job ; super rough idle, car shaking. WTF I did wrong, not my 1st gasket job, maybe I dropped something?

3- Remove everything, nothing, all seems clean.

4 - I decided to change the PCV just in case, indeed, mine was shoot.

5- Put the cover back : super rough idle, car shaking. PCV did't change a thing !!

6 - Remove the vanos solenoid just to be sure: both were jammed . WTF this is related to a gasket job ???? Anyway.

7 - Start the car, idle is fine, but have a missfire on cyl 5.

8 - By chance, oil in the coil due to previous shoot gaskets, cleaned.

9 - Car starts and idle fine. Win but not a win.

Ill do a oil flush soon, and fresh oil, and be ready for winter


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      08-02-2022, 07:39 PM   #21064
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Just got her home from the body shop, front bumper cover repair and paint. Removed the front license plate bracket that was on the car when purchased. Ohio dropped the front license plate requirement and couldn't wait to remove the front plate. Had a couple of other things fixed, rear bumper cover I damaged backing into a door step while putting it away for winter storage and a small door ding that was there when I purchased it.
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      08-02-2022, 07:39 PM   #21065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
4 - I decided to change the PCV just in case, indeed, mine was shoot.


Wondering what process you used to remove the PCV and how much of the 9 hours that took up? Curious to do that, but reluctant to as well. Wondering if it is better to get an aftermarket PCV and put it on the hacked up VC, or buy a new but cheap VC from Amazon. Obviously doing it right and getting the proper OEM one is totally out of the question!!!
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      08-02-2022, 07:40 PM   #21066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian86 View Post
erp... Remote entry not fixed.

Perhaps it needs a new antenna module, and has needed one all along.

Thinking the wires were in bad shape, but had not yet failed. Then my pull test yanked the damaged wires apart. The intermittent failures of the module led me to the pull test which was destructive.

How often are the antenna module failures intermittent. Seems completely random. Either works normally with both fobs, or not at all with both fobs. Non-comfort car. Otherwise the locking system works entirely intended..
Do you think there is a wire you didn't yank hard enough on that has a partial break? I was shocked at how many wires were broken when I did mine.
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      08-02-2022, 08:24 PM   #21067
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There are only four wires that got to the antenna. I spliced 4 new ones in for the passage through the strain relief.

I'm 98% confident with my solder joints. It'd be wild if my new wires were causing intermittent function.... but I've had stranger things happen.

Probably tinker with the antenna module first. Check solder joints and what not. I imagine it gets really hot up there in the summer. Looked pristine, it's been water tight. If that doesn't work maybe try my luck with a salvage yard unit.
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      08-02-2022, 09:07 PM   #21068
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I got new tires.

Now I have real repair work to do: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...0#post29179100
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      08-02-2022, 09:09 PM   #21069
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oops double post
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      08-03-2022, 01:57 AM   #21070
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Dumping this here in case it helps anyone. My radiator fan was acting up where it would trigger code 2EFF before the engine went into limp mode and the water pump and fan ran at 100% to keep coolant temps at 80C. It seemed like an issue with the fan controller and since you cannot buy them separately (they're integrated into the motor), I had to replace the entire fan assembly. You can't buy an OE Bosch fan assembly anywhere and fan assemblies are exorbitantly priced from BMW, so I begrudgingly went with a TYC Genera fan (#622990) for ~$275 CAD.

The TYC fan was made in Taiwan and while it was nearly indistinguishable from the OE Bosch fan, the important bits such as the controller and motor were different. TYC claims to license the blade and shroud patent from Bosch, and they also claim to use more durable plastics and wiring than other aftermarket brands. I noticed the TYC fan didn't have any balancing clips, but they claim their fan blades are "rotationally balanced" without the need for clips. You can see their claims in the coolant fan assembly section here: https://www.genera.com/HVAC.html

TYC does have a limited lifetime warranty, but the eligibility criteria is quite restrictive: https://www.genera.com/Warranty-Policy.html

Anyway, the swap is easy enough and the TYC fan was a perfect fit. It's working fine and seems to have resolved the 2EFF code so far, so I'm quite pleased with the quality and cost of the TYC fan. Hopefully the controller/motor will last as long as the OE parts.

Original thread: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934495
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      08-03-2022, 08:41 AM   #21071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StradaRedlands View Post
Wondering what process you used to remove the PCV and how much of the 9 hours that took up? Curious to do that, but reluctant to as well. Wondering if it is better to get an aftermarket PCV and put it on the hacked up VC, or buy a new but cheap VC from Amazon. Obviously doing it right and getting the proper OEM one is totally out of the question!!!
the 9 hours is to remove the cover twice and redo the RV seal on the gasket twice, and look at everything twice, and scan the car, wait to JB weld to cure on the PCV, and try to source the issue. Oh also beers.

PCV I bought the part, and did a X cut on the OEM one with a dremel. Then pry it with plyers. It came out fairly easily. Then I simply push back the new one , and seal it with JB weld.


But note, depending where you live, a NEW valve cover with all new gaskets might save you few hours , and also few headache !!!
There's a total of 6 gasket/seals and 1 PCV on that cover.

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      08-03-2022, 12:15 PM   #21072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
the 9 hours is to remove the cover twice and redo the RV seal on the gasket twice, and look at everything twice, and scan the car, wait to JB weld to cure on the PCV, and try to source the issue. Oh also beers.
Just wondering, which RV sealant (im assuming you meant RTV) did you use?
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      08-03-2022, 02:05 PM   #21073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf 335 View Post
Just wondering, which RV sealant (im assuming you meant RTV) did you use?
in deed, the black one, but general silicone can do .

The goal here is not to seal, but to hold the gasket in place during the installation to avoid pinching it, classic inline 6 .

I put few drops in back and each corners.

Only downside is you can't reuse the gasket if you need to remove it when its dry . I mean you can, but I wont do it, dry RTV can be move to its original spot and then you get a leak .
This stuff stick , you can't really clean it either.

Those n52 seals are 20$ on rockauto, get a new gasket.
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      08-03-2022, 07:48 PM   #21074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
the 9 hours is to remove the cover twice and redo the RV seal on the gasket twice, and look at everything twice, and scan the car, wait to JB weld to cure on the PCV, and try to source the issue. Oh also beers.

PCV I bought the part, and did a X cut on the OEM one with a dremel. Then pry it with plyers. It came out fairly easily. Then I simply push back the new one , and seal it with JB weld.


But note, depending where you live, a NEW valve cover with all new gaskets might save you few hours , and also few headache !!!
There's a total of 6 gasket/seals and 1 PCV on that cover.

Thanks, I haven't seen the X option. Multiple different options to get it off, checking out my options for when the inevitable happens!
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      08-03-2022, 09:19 PM   #21075
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Installed Vorshlag camber plates.
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      08-04-2022, 09:33 AM   #21076
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Fluid changes

Recently acquired a 2011 328I X-Drive sedan with 92K on the clock. So, seeing that most of maintenance was done at dealership, we all know that they say it has "lifetime" fluids! So knowing this is not the case...Using all LiquiMoly, did an engine flush, drained, replaced filter, put in Penzoil synth, ran for 10 min, drained and replaced filter and new LiquiMoly oil and a can of MoS2. Runs so much smoother now. Drained and refilled front, transfer and rear diffs. Power steering pump was making a slight noise, so decided to change the reservoir and fluid. Fairly easy process. Turns smoother and no more noise. New air filter and cabin air filter.

Next week will be a transmission service, sway bar links all around and rear shocks with new shock mount kits.
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