[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Can't wait to see the upper bearing OP! Subbed

[fatty335]

OP, any updates on your bearing swap?

[cahme]

I'm not back on the road yet, but here are pics of all bearings ... I really didn't need to change them, but since I was there fixing an oil pan gasket ...

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by cahme

I'm not back on the road yet, but here are pics of all bearings ... I really didn't need to change them, but since I was there fixing an oil pan gasket ...

thank you sir for talking the time.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Nice so these bearings look acceptable/wouldn't die within the next year right?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Nice so these bearings look acceptable/wouldn't die within the next year right?

in my opinion they look very reasonable for mileage with some heat spots and scoring but expected with a modified car..

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Pladi

in my opinion they look very reasonable for mileage with some heat spots and scoring but expected with a modified car..

Yeah this looks quite better than some we've seen. Perhaps there is hope.

I wonder what are the reasons...

[amw896]

looking good for the mileage!

[fatty335]

As expected, your uppers were worn more than the lowers (especially #5 & #6) but, not bad for the miles! You said you weren't back on the road yet - are you waiting on parts or is a particular part/procedure giving you trouble? One thing that did occur to me: please make sure you follow the BMW-recommended engine priming procedure (unplug all fuel injectors, crank for 10 seconds x3 with a few seconds break in between for starter to cool off) before refiring your engine. Oh, and expect a few VANOS failure codes & maybe half-engine light when you fire it back up for the first time due to all the oil draining out. Thanks very much for posting your progress and contributing to our collective understanding of this issue!

[lwgrenier]

Originally Posted by fatty335

As expected, your uppers were worn more than the lowers (especially #5 & #6) but, not bad for the miles! You said you weren't back on the road yet - are you waiting on parts or is a particular part/procedure giving you trouble? One thing that did occur to me: please make sure you follow the BMW-recommended engine priming procedure (unplug all fuel injectors, crank for 10 seconds x3 with a few seconds break in between for starter to cool off) before refiring your engine. Oh, and expect a few VANOS failure codes & maybe half-engine light when you fire it back up for the first time due to all the oil draining out. Thanks very much for posting your progress and contributing to our collective understanding of this issue!

Do you know if this priming procedure is documented by BMW somewhere? As an SIB/TSB?

[fatty335]

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

Do you know if this priming procedure is documented by BMW somewhere? As an SIB/TSB?

Supposedly it is a SIB but I have not actually seen it.

[cahme]

Originally Posted by fatty335

As expected, your uppers were worn more than the lowers (especially #5 & #6) but, not bad for the miles! You said you weren't back on the road yet - are you waiting on parts or is a particular part/procedure giving you trouble? One thing that did occur to me: please make sure you follow the BMW-recommended engine priming procedure (unplug all fuel injectors, crank for 10 seconds x3 with a few seconds break in between for starter to cool off) before refiring your engine. Oh, and expect a few VANOS failure codes & maybe half-engine light when you fire it back up for the first time due to all the oil draining out. Thanks very much for posting your progress and contributing to our collective understanding of this issue!

I have plenty of excuses , but it really just took a long time. I did plastigauge each one as well as a couple old ones, so I went through the torquing process about 14 times total. They were all very consistent and really close to the old ones. Best I could tell is they were all around .0018". The gauge had .0015 and .002 and the were all in between them.
I also broke one of the front oil pump bolts and wasted about 30min just to find my ez-out kit. I'm pretty sure my torque wrench is quite a bit off for the low end (4Nm) and I was already too tight to start the angle and it snapped just as I was hitting 45*.

I also decided now was a good time to change the spark plugs, so I performed the priming with the plugs out (and injectors disconnected) thinking it may give me a bit more flow since there was no compression; cranked it 4x @ 15 sec each and 45 sec cooling.

Good news is I made it fine on my 30mi round trip commute!
Bad news is while laying on my back for so long, I noticed a leak starting on the OFHG ....

[Ozzie335i]

Is there not a pre grease for cranks / bearings for BMW rebuilds?

[Pladi]

Does anyone know an easy way to crank without starting ? In my mazda and alot of cars all you do is press the gas pedal all the way as you are cranking. It cuts fuel.

Whats the easiest way with these cars ?

[fatty335]

Originally Posted by cahme

I have plenty of excuses , but it really just took a long time. I did plastigauge each one as well as a couple old ones, so I went through the torquing process about 14 times total. They were all very consistent and really close to the old ones. Best I could tell is they were all around .0018". The gauge had .0015 and .002 and the were all in between them.
I also broke one of the front oil pump bolts and wasted about 30min just to find my ez-out kit. I'm pretty sure my torque wrench is quite a bit off for the low end (4Nm) and I was already too tight to start the angle and it snapped just as I was hitting 45*.

I also decided now was a good time to change the spark plugs, so I performed the priming with the plugs out (and injectors disconnected) thinking it may give me a bit more flow since there was no compression; cranked it 4x @ 15 sec each and 45 sec cooling.

Good news is I made it fine on my 30mi round trip commute!
Bad news is while laying on my back for so long, I noticed a leak starting on the OFHG ....

Outstanding...Congratulations! Your clearance is exactly what mine was...right between .0015 and .002. Glad to hear you're up and running again...here's to another 150K miles!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Does anyone know an easy way to crank without starting ? In my mazda and alot of cars all you do is press the gas pedal all the way as you are cranking. It cuts fuel.

Whats the easiest way with these cars ?

Don't think there is if the so called procedure says to disconnect injectors.

I was thinking remove fuel pump fuse but the injectors would probably spray the remaining fuel and be enough to start the car for a second.

On the subject does anyone actually know for sure there is a SIB for it.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by fatty335

Outstanding...Congratulations! Your clearance is exactly what mine was...right between .0015 and .002. Glad to hear you're up and running again...here's to another 150K miles!

Wait dont celebrate yet, he still has to do OFHG !

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Does anyone know an easy way to crank without starting ? In my mazda and alot of cars all you do is press the gas pedal all the way as you are cranking. It cuts fuel.

Whats the easiest way with these cars ?

Reach down to the DME and unplug the ignition harness. quick and easy. No spark no fuel.

[Speedy_12139]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Is there not a pre grease for cranks / bearings for BMW rebuilds?

It's called an assembly lube...

And now that you mention it. I'm yet to hear of anybody using it when doubt this job on an n54/n55. Unless they have. And never said anything about it.

I can't imagine it hurting anything... It would create one extra line of defense from starting/priming the engine with dry bearings.

It would need to be flushed out shortly after a "break in"..

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Is there not a pre grease for cranks / bearings for BMW rebuilds?

Originally Posted by Speedy_12139

It's called an assembly lube...

And now that you mention it. I'm yet to hear of anybody using it when doubt this job on an n54/n55. Unless they have. And never said anything about it.

I can't imagine it hurting anything... It would create one extra line of defense from starting/priming the engine with dry bearings.

It would need to be flushed out shortly after a "break in"..

Yes, assembly line and isn't BMW specific or something you need to do only if you are working on a BMW. All engines! I'm sure all mechanics use it. I sure do.

[Ozzie335i]

Yeah, I know. I just hadn't heard anybody here mention using it for that critical moment before all is fully primed.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Yeah, I know. I just hadn't heard anybody here mention using it for that critical moment before all is fully primed.

Because is understood. I would expect anyone able to carry conversation about rod bearing installation to know that assembly lube is used. If you ask me priming isn't necessary if only doing rod bearings replacement. Also there isn't a break in period if crank wasn't turned with size to match bearings were used. Taking it easy to make sure all is well and short oil change interval to flush possible metal debris is what I would recommend.