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      12-04-2018, 12:50 PM   #1
335ivin
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Preventive Maintenance items, N54 with 100K miles

Hello Folks
So my car finally turns the 100k mile mark (12-04-2018). What preventive maintenance items do I need to start looking at to keep the car running top-notch?
Something to think about is that my N54 is not my daily driver. I usually put about 4k miles on it a year.

The following items were done under the BMW warranty or extended warranty.

Front brakes_Maint item_23k preventive maint
Xenon Light Control unit_failed 24k, under warranty
AHL Module_ failed_25k under warranty
Brake Fluid Change_Maint item_48k preventive maint
Front brakes_Maint item_48k preventive maint
HPFP_Recall_50k
Transmission oil pan gasket(around 55k miles)_OEM failed_covered under extended warranty
Rear brakes_Maint item_63k preventive maint
Spark plugs_ Maint item_63k preventive maint
Engine Air filter_ Maint item_63K preventive maint
Water pump 68k miles_OEM failed_covered under extended warranty
Oil Pan gasket_OEM failed_covered under extended warranty
Oil filter housing_OEM failed_covered under extended warranty
Valve cover Gasket-_OEM failed_covered under extended warranty

Rear-wheel bearings (95k miles)_ OEM failed
Transmission Valvebody (98k miles)_OEM failed_rebuilt by centralvalvebodies.com lifetime warranty

Rear Passenger Window regulator 2.04.19_OEM failed
Rear-end oil change 3.02.19 (100,600) oil looked clear as the day it was driven off the lot._ preventive maint.
Hood Shocks 3.02.19_ OEM failed
AC Compressor 3.10.19 (101,700 miles)_ OEM failed
Thermostat 3.10.19 (101,700 miles)_OEM failed
Coolant flush 3.10.19 (101,700 miles)_preventive maint
Spark Plugs 6.01.19 (105,400 miles)_ preventive maint
Fuel filter/Fuel Pressure regulator (106,100)_ preventive maint
Vanos Solenoids_cleaned (106,100)_preventive maint
Vanos Filters_cleaned (106,100)_preventive maint

Update 10.04.19
Drivers front airbag_recall (111K)
Blower motor wiring_recal (111k)

Update 1.20.19
Rear driver door window regular fail, replaced with oem from FPC Euro

Last edited by 335ivin; 01-25-2020 at 11:41 PM..
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      12-04-2018, 06:34 PM   #2
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Other than the few items mentioned what have been replaced so far?
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      12-04-2018, 08:17 PM   #3
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Vacuum lines, serpentine belt, and tighten power steering bolts. Coils and plugs if you haven't replaced them in the last 50K miles.
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      12-04-2018, 08:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Vacuum lines, serpentine belt, and tighten power steering bolts. Coils and plugs if you haven't replaced them in the last 50K miles.
Could you go into a little more detail about why we'd need to tighten the power steering bolts? Which bolts are you referring to?
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      12-04-2018, 08:41 PM   #5
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Yeah, the power steering pump bolts tend to loosen up over time. Once the pump looses tension completely it will shred the belt on its way down. Once the belt shreds it may get eaten through the crankshaft pulley. Once that happens your engine is at risk.
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      12-05-2018, 07:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Other than the few items mentioned what has been replaced so far?

I recall the dealer doing the fuel injector cleaning (@75K mi), transmission fluid and filter, battery, spark plugs, plug wires, front, and rear brakes. I need to call the dealer and get a print out of all the service records.
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      12-05-2018, 10:44 PM   #7
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If your car is prior to 2010, you'll want to get new engine mounts, ideally the the updated 335is mounts for each side. (If these are still insanely marked up, consider turner solid mounts) This will prevent the front subrframe from hitting the ps pump which then shreds the belt causing it to get ingested into the front seal blowing up your motor, which can happen if the original mounts are worn. Regarding tightening the bolts, yes check them but if they need to be tightened you need to find the root cause of them backing out.

You're very fortunate that your warranty replaced as much stuff as it did, nice to see someone come out ahead for a change! Now you can spend that cash on fun mods like suspension instead!!
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      12-06-2018, 06:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post

You're very fortunate that your warranty replaced as much stuff as it did, nice to see someone come out ahead for a change! Now you can spend that cash on fun mods like suspension instead!!
That's actually a set of maintenance items on most cars over 100k. Bushings all around, ball joints, check if rubber guido is ok, and check if the struts/springs are still good. One of my shocks was minorly bent preventing perfect alignments and causing the car to squirm over some bumps. Upgrading to coilovers
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      12-06-2018, 07:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
If your car is prior to 2010, you'll want to get new engine mounts, ideally the updated 335is mounts for each side. (If these are still insanely marked up, consider turner solid mounts) This will prevent the front sub-frame from hitting the ps pump which then shreds the belt causing it to get ingested into the front seal blowing up your motor, which can happen if the original mounts are worn. Regarding tightening the bolts, yes check them but if they need to be tightened you need to find the root cause of them backing out.

You're very fortunate that your warranty replaced as much stuff as it did, nice to see someone come out ahead for a change! Now you can spend that cash on fun mods like suspension instead!!

JKlad
My brother was the first buying a BMW and every time it went to the shop his bill was no less than a grand. That made me invest in the extended warranty, I paid like 4k for it (it covered all gaskets and seals) but it paid for it sell twice with all BMW did.

My car is a 08 and I'm glad you are bringing the motor mount issue to my attention. I was not aware of such issue, I'm going to put the mounts on the maint to do list since I'll be keeping this car for a while. Do I need to replace both sides?

Last edited by 335ivin; 12-06-2018 at 07:15 AM..
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      12-06-2018, 08:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tisdrew View Post
That's actually a set of maintenance items on most cars over 100k. Bushings all around, ball joints, check if rubber guido is ok, and check if the struts/springs are still good. One of my shocks was minorly bent preventing perfect alignments and causing the car to squirm over some bumps. Upgrading to coilovers
Did that fix it? I have new struts in the rear so I know they aren't bent, but I still get a squirm. I'm under the impression it's the subframe bushings, which apparently were too soft even from the factory.
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      12-06-2018, 08:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335ivin View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
If your car is prior to 2010, you'll want to get new engine mounts, ideally the updated 335is mounts for each side. (If these are still insanely marked up, consider turner solid mounts) This will prevent the front sub-frame from hitting the ps pump which then shreds the belt causing it to get ingested into the front seal blowing up your motor, which can happen if the original mounts are worn. Regarding tightening the bolts, yes check them but if they need to be tightened you need to find the root cause of them backing out.

You're very fortunate that your warranty replaced as much stuff as it did, nice to see someone come out ahead for a change! Now you can spend that cash on fun mods like suspension instead!!

JKlad
My brother was the first buying a BMW and every time it went to the shop his bill was no less than a grand. That made me invest in the extended warranty, I paid like 4k for it (it covered all gaskets and seals) but it paid for it sell twice with all BMW did.

My car is a 08 and I'm glad you are bringing the motor mount issue to my attention. I was not aware of such issue, I'm going to put the mounts on the maint to do list since I'll be keeping this car for a while. Do I need to replace both sides?
Yes you might as well do both sides. You can do the IS mount on the one side, with soroginal
Mount on the other side which is how the IS cars came from the factory. Or, can do IS mount on both sides. Unfortunately Bmw is currently price gouging for this part, they used to be $90 each back in the day. So you can consider quality solid mounts from turner if you don't mind slight added nvh. It's nothing to freak out about, but I'd want to do it in the next 15-20k if I were in your place.

Also, are you on the original injectors? If so, that's something else you may want to be proactive about replacing.
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      12-06-2018, 10:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335ivin View Post
Hello Folks
So my car finally turns the 100k mile mark. What preventive maintenance items do I need to start looking at to keep the car running top notch?
Something to think about is that my N54 is not my daily driver. I usually put about 4k miles on it a year.

The following items were done under the BMW extended warranty within the last 10k miles.

Oil Pan gasket
Oil filter housing
Valve cover Gasket
The water pump was done around 65k miles, can't remember if they did the thermostat
Complete fluid swap

Trans
Brake
PS
Coolant
Diff

At some point you will have to do the Rear Main Seal, but I wouldn't try to proactively change it, unless you are really mechanically inclined and have the right tools.

Plugs, coils

Belts, pulleys

Suspension (shocks, struts & surrounding hardware)

- Megatronic Seal
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      12-06-2018, 11:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Yes you might as well do both sides. You can do the IS mount on the one side, with soroginal
Mount on the other side which is how the IS cars came from the factory. Or, can do IS mount on both sides. Unfortunately Bmw is currently price gouging for this part, they used to be $90 each back in the day. So you can consider quality solid mounts from turner if you don't mind slight added nvh. It's nothing to freak out about, but I'd want to do it in the next 15-20k if I were in your place.

Also, are you on the original injectors? If so, that's something else you may want to be proactive about replacing.
How much NVH do the turner solid mounts add? Is it worth going for Poly? prices on the is mounts are insane.
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      12-06-2018, 12:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro235 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Yes you might as well do both sides. You can do the IS mount on the one side, with soroginal
Mount on the other side which is how the IS cars came from the factory. Or, can do IS mount on both sides. Unfortunately Bmw is currently price gouging for this part, they used to be $90 each back in the day. So you can consider quality solid mounts from turner if you don't mind slight added nvh. It's nothing to freak out about, but I'd want to do it in the next 15-20k if I were in your place.

Also, are you on the original injectors? If so, that's something else you may want to be proactive about replacing.
How much NVH do the turner solid mounts add? Is it worth going for Poly? prices on the is mounts are insane.
Not sure, maybe someone else can chime in on nvh. I wouldn't go with anything cheapo that could potentially fail and cause the problem your trying to avoid. For example, some folks had the 034 brand mounts fail on them.
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      12-07-2018, 10:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Complete fluid swap

Trans
Brake
PS
Coolant
Diff

At some point you will have to do the Rear Main Seal, but I wouldn't try to proactively change it, unless you are really mechanically inclined and have the right tools.

Plugs, coils

Belts, pulleys

Suspension (shocks, struts & surrounding hardware)

- Megatronic Seal
Thanks, I've added these items to my maint list.
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      12-07-2018, 12:17 PM   #16
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Rotors & Pads ✔️
fuel-it stage 2 ✔️
Index 12 Injectors ✔️
Spark Plugs ✔️
Ignition Coils ✔️
Vanos Solenoids ✔️
Cabin Air Filter ✔️
Trans & Diff Fluid ✔️
Coolant Fluid Change ✔️
Power Steering Fluid Change✔️
Oil & Filter Change ✔️
All Pulleys & Belts Changed ✔️
All Vacuum Lines Replaced ✔️


heres my list for my car with 250k miles
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      12-11-2018, 09:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverMod View Post
Rotors & Pads ✔️
fuel-it stage 2 ✔️
Index 12 Injectors ✔️
Spark Plugs ✔️
Ignition Coils ✔️
Vanos Solenoids ✔️
Cabin Air Filter ✔️
Trans & Diff Fluid ✔️
Coolant Fluid Change ✔️
Power Steering Fluid Change✔️
Oil & Filter Change ✔️
All Pulleys & Belts Changed ✔️
All Vacuum Lines Replaced ✔️




heres my list for my car with 250k miles


What is the Index 12 Injectors?
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      12-12-2018, 05:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335ivin View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverMod View Post
Rotors & Pads
fuel-it stage 2
Index 12 Injectors
Spark Plugs
Ignition Coils
Vanos Solenoids
Cabin Air Filter
Trans & Diff Fluid
Coolant Fluid Change
Power Steering Fluid Change
Oil & Filter Change
All Pulleys & Belts Changed
All Vacuum Lines Replaced




heres my list for my car with 250k miles


What is the Index 12 Injectors?
Index 12 Injectors are the version/index of Injectors that were released. The Index 12 version are the kind that you want to install. Most reliable version thus far and if you are on stock Injectors they will fail eventually.
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      06-20-2019, 01:35 PM   #19
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So this past weekend I changed out the spark plugs (appx 50k miles since the last set) and was going to tackle the fuel filter. I jacked up the car and was not able to find it. Can someone point out its location! Thanks
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      06-22-2019, 08:20 AM   #20
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Fuel filter is in the gas tank. Part of the low pressure fuel pump.
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      06-22-2019, 10:10 PM   #21
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Is there an upgraded high pressure fuel pump for 08? Just reading all the woes and I'm trying to locate better replacement as it seems people are replacing these quite often and more than one a person lol
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      06-23-2019, 08:33 AM   #22
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Wheel bearing depending on how bad yours are at the moment. I had some really bad shaking past 140 and putting in new wheel bearings made a world of difference. The fronts are an easy job, rears are a little trickier.
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