[asha]

Cut a long story short my cars at a body shop and he said it struggled to start this morning but it did in the end then when he wanted to move it again he said it was just dead..

.so he said he put the battery on charge all afternoon but still no joy..so asked him what he had done and what's the I drive saying ect ..and he came back with he charge the battery from the boot and took the red distribution thing off and charged the battery that way and not though the engine bay and when he tryed to start it there's nothing but just a glow plug symbol and a message saying pre heating please wait but still nothing

...and I also changed all the plugs back in August so shouldn't have an issue with the controller as the garage said it was fine and didn't need replacing ..can some one shed some light on the situation as I'm. Stoked ...and the cars being used for a wedding next week lol just my luck

[Sensible_]

Well, you need to run a diagnostic check to see what fault codes are being thrown.

If he disconnected the battery first and then charged it I don't see a problem with this. It's essentially just being charged on a bench. However, if it's not holding charge your battery needs replacing...

Given the cold weather at the moment this seems the most likely cause.

Low battery can throw all sorts of codes / dash warning lights.

You could also check the 40a fuse which deals with preheating I think it's normally fuse 33.

Also FYI, garbage that changed your plugs should have changed the controller at the same time. E9X diesel preheating controller is notorious for failing.

[asha]

Thanks for the reply...
Firstly if it was a case of the battery not holding charge surely it would try and turn over at least once or even make the clicking noise...
I may try and get home early tomoz and nip over to the garage as I have carly on my phone to run a check and while I'm there I shall check that fuse ..but what could of possible made that fuse to blow?

Also if it's a case of the controller failing would it still try and start just not help the starting procedure?

I've read a few things on the net tonight regarding making sure terminals on battery are tight...and also don't no how true this is but there's some sort of procedure everyone's doing when the battery had been removed for a long time ect stating that you have to re sync the key fob with the ignition system summet to do with the immobiliser sharing on until a sequence is followed

[makkan00]

If its battery which died or went flat then its mostly immobiliser loosing its sync with keys.

Reading the code and if it is above, then repairing it will help.

[frenchi]

unplug ibs sensor from battery and try again

[asha]

Went to the garage today ran a diagnostic check on carly nothing really jumped out at me fault wise ..so started narrowing down a possible starter motor failed. Seems there's power getting to the solenoid and also I put a 12v supply to the switch feed "if it's called that " to try and turn the starter motor instead of through the electrics on the car got a few sparks but no movement even jacked the car up and got underneath with the old hammer walking trick lol but nothing .....so I think it is shot ...
How do you sync the keys??

[Sensible_]

What were the fault codes displayed? Post the Carly log up here.

What happens when you plug in the key and turn on the ignition? Any pictures on dash?

What is the current battery voltage? Check via secret menu or multimeter.

Remote Central locking working?

Also, depending on age of your vehicle there is a known fault where the red BST from battery to fuse box becomes corroded and causes a dead runner.

Check the cable behind fuse box to see for any discolouration / corrosion at the connector.

If there is, BMW have a recall for certain vins I think it was most 2007 vehicles....

[Sensible_]

Also also, just read Makkan's reply.

Just to clarify, does the car crank? If not then I guess what Makkan says is the most likely problem.

If no crank then that is indicating CAS not releasing the starter motor. Have you tried resync of CAS/DDE?

One fault to look out for is: 2F44: EWS Manipulation Protection

(I've seen this one with a lot of flat batteries)

[asha]

Thanks for the reply I didn't take a log first time round but I'm going to the garage again tonight so will check again and take note ...
A few answers to your questions ...
Car is on a 56 plate
Battery is now reading as it should due to being charged up
Yes central locking works but I did notice it wouldn't close the windows when holding button in and it would before ...

Dash seems to light up as normal then go out minus 2 lights I think that's normal.. but does say pre heating please wait!
No doesn't crank at all hense me thinking started it stuck
How can I request sync the cas/dde as I could try tonight to rule it out ? And I'll look see if it chucks that code up would that be the cas problem ?

[Sensible_]

Hmm, I thought I recognised your symptoms before. There is also a known grounding problem.

Ready up on this: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...eat-issue.html

and have a play tonight at the garage.

[asha]

Ruled out a possible ground issue with just one jump lead to the chassis and engine ..
Pulled up a few codes ....
426E serial interface comes fault
4A63 serial immobiliser manipulated switch code faulty/ews manipulation

Sounds expensive and haven't got a clue what there mean possibly modules/ecu fried??

[Sensible_]

I've not seen that exact code before to be honest. Perhaps makkan can advise. However I'd suggest the CAS / DDE are not 'hand shaking' correctly.

Carly won't help you with this...

Get a K+DCAN cable or ICOM and install BMW ISTA D. (Rheingold) or download the VM from the coding section of this forum.

Then do the following:

Start your ISTAD and connect it to your car, then:

+tab: Operations
+tab: Read Out Vehicle Data

=button "Complete Identification"

+tab: Vehicle management
+tab: Service function
+menu: Drive
+menu: Diesel fuel electronics
+menu: Adjustment functions
+menu: DDE-CAS

=button "Start search" and follow the instructions

(I copied the instructions from another forum so credit to them - but it's no secret.)

[asha]

Ahh I see them codes are off a bosch machine although my carly app thrown up the ews manipulation code too ...I found the manipulation ews code on autolox website and it sounds bang on the money to what I'm. Experiencing besides one thing that the car will still try and turn over and mine don't even try .....I'm. Going to ring a vehicle lock limits today as I know they can code emus to keys ect..
As I don't have a laptop to install Ista ect hense the carly app on my phone

[Sensible_]

Ok, but don't get mugged off. If all that is needed is CAS / DDE synced then it's a very simple process. Where abouts are you?

[asha]

Just read my reply back STUPID PREDICTIVE TEXT....suprised you could make out what I was saying lol ....don't get mugged of as in letting them try tell me it's some thing else other than that ? And I'm in Nottingham mate

[RajB]

Will it jump start with no issues? If so then it rules out a lot of the usual starter electrical components (starter motor, etc). In which case I'd seriously consider just changing the battery in the first instance. I had an issue at the early part of the year where I drove the car, parked up and then as I pressed the button to turn the car off the whole thing died with the key still in and unable to remove it etc.

After about 20 mins sat there waiting for my brother to turn up so I could get to work and he could get the car back home it suddenly sprung into life.

After getting the car home and left all day it still started but then then half hour later again just dead when trying to crank (everything seemed to be working). I checked the battery and it showed 12.4v so seemed ok but when trying to start it the voltage just went haywire and sporadic.

Decided to just swap battery and no issues since.

My sisters 2008 Astra has literally just done the same with showing charged voltage but not turning and voltage dropping completely when trying to start it. Changed battery last night and all good.

Thing with these cars is when battery power drops it really screws up the electrics and throws many codes that aren't actually an issue.

[bishbosh]

My wifes car battery died just like that. It was fine in the afternoon when she drove home, got home and it wouldn't start an hour later. It was f*cked, bought a new battery and it's been fine ever since.

[asha]

No wouldnt try and turn over or anything so come to the conclusion starters knackered so body shops stayed late to early hours this morning and took the starter motor off ...testing it freely on the bench and still nothing not even trying to turn and when you shake it it rattles about..I dont think this is normal ...he also testing another starter of his evo and that span round fine soon as power touched ..so ordered a starter from euros and he's gonna fit that tonight also rang a battery company up enquiring about a battery so hopefully just gonna pull the plug and buy a new one even though I've had a decent tester on the battery and it says it's fine and reading just under 12v so do you think I really need a new one

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by asha

No wouldnt try and turn over or anything so come to the conclusion starters knackered so body shops stayed late to early hours this morning and took the starter motor off ...testing it freely on the bench and still nothing not even trying to turn and when you shake it it rattles about..I dont think this is normal ...he also testing another starter of his evo and that span round fine soon as power touched ..so ordered a starter from euros and he's gonna fit that tonight also rang a battery company up enquiring about a battery so hopefully just gonna pull the plug and buy a new one even though I've had a decent tester on the battery and it says it's fine and reading just under 12v so do you think I really need a new one

I don't think reading under 12v is fine. Normal is around 12.6v I believe...

As I said at the very beginning...I would look to the battery before changing anything else.

Even if you get a new starter motor how do you propose to get rid of 4A63? The DDE is telling you there is an EWS immobilise problem.

I hope it works for you, just trying to help you out before spending unnecessary cash.

If it were me, an I suspect most people on this forum will give the same advice...

1. Change battery
2. Perform the CAS - DDE adjustment (commonly known as alignment (although not correct).

[Fundguy1]

Could be a starter.

[Sensible_]

http://autolox.co.uk/4a63-bmw-fault-...-manipulation/

Just for information. What they are saying is exactly the information I've given you. Get yourself a K+DCAN cable and copy of Rheingold. A decent cable is £70 max and a decent investment for any BMW owner.

[asha]

Quick.update changed the starter and now it's cranking as it wasn't before still.have the codes though so.i thing I'd does need resyncing ..I do have a cable for the carly app I use but no laptop to down load the software ...just tried sytner bmw Nottingham mobile machanic but wouldn't give me an answer to what I was telling them and wanted a few hundred pound just to come out ....my problem is I know the problem now and I just need some one with the software who is willing to do the work ..
The cars at a stand still and is to low for a low loader to take it Anywere does anyone one know any coders around the Midlands Nottingham who can help.me obvs willing to pay as my cars suppose to be used for the bride of a wedding next Friday lol ....