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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > UK Technical Forum > Help with speaker upgrade please



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      10-03-2008, 12:05 PM   #45
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phew...

Yea thought that S3, did it the first time but guy had to go and got put on to someone else who didnt have a clue. Saying things like "I dont think you can install it youself, never heard of anyone fitting tweeters" etc etc.

After waiting for him to look in the computer (like 10 minutes on hold) he asked if I had the part numbers, and to be honest from that point i just gave them to him and didnt ask anthing else.

Price started at 140 odd quid. I asked him to read it back, and he ordered 4 corner mouldings. I politely asked "Why would I want 4?". Turns out when I said the first number, followed by "and this is the corner moulding" he added 2 for each. Christ.
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      10-03-2008, 01:33 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kend View Post
The corner mouldings differ on E92 to E90.
The original Blaupunkt thread has all the part numbers

Just been through the blaupunkt thread again and cannot find the part numbers I would need to order for my E90.

If you (or anyone else) knows which parts numbers I need to order please would you post them on here. Thanks
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      10-03-2008, 04:29 PM   #47
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I'd let you know as I've just ordered them, but I don't know if mine are right yet so I'll wait and see.

Just call the dealers and ask them, they should have the part numbers. As long you tell them to order:
2 tweaters (either logic7 or hi-fi, not that much price difference and from the replies on here seems best to get the l7)
both corner plastic mouldings
both corner foam inserts
both spring clips (although apparently not absolutely necessary but they are a few pence so worth it in case you lose them)
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      10-03-2008, 06:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trixman View Post
I'd let you know as I've just ordered them, but I don't know if mine are right yet so I'll wait and see.

Just call the dealers and ask them, they should have the part numbers. As long you tell them to order:
2 tweaters (either logic7 or hi-fi, not that much price difference and from the replies on here seems best to get the l7)
both corner plastic mouldings
both corner foam inserts
both spring clips (although apparently not absolutely necessary but they are a few pence so worth it in case you lose them)
Cheers but yours are e92 - the codes for them are listed on the thread - its the e90 ones I cant find.
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      10-03-2008, 06:10 PM   #49
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www.realoem.com

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      10-03-2008, 07:21 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by 1stnewcar View Post
Cheers but yours are e92 - the codes for them are listed on the thread - its the e90 ones I cant find.
No problem... think I read that thread too but I cant find it either, probably one of the blaupunkt/alpine threads though (not that there's many of them )
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      10-03-2008, 07:23 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by gIzzE View Post
www.realoem.com

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as above!
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      10-04-2008, 10:29 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by gIzzE View Post
www.realoem.com

:thumbsups:

Still can't find them - no parts found matching your car. It doesn't matter - I'm not that bothered - just thought that if someone had done an e90 it would benefit all to have the codes on here. NP
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      10-04-2008, 12:26 PM   #53
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=51&fg=10
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      10-04-2008, 12:29 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by gIzzE View Post





No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01COVER, WINDOW FRAME, DOOR FRONT LEFT151337120655$27.3401COVER, WINDOW FRAME, DOOR FRONT RIGHT151337120656$27.34FOR VEHICLES WITH
HIFI SPEAKER SYSTEM
OR
HIFI SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL DSP
ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH LOUDSPEAKER
GRID
S676A=YES

S677A=YES 01COVER, WINDOW FRAME, DOOR FRONT LEFT151337171201$32.6401COVER, WINDOW FRAME, DOOR FRONT RIGHT151337171202$32.6402SEAL, INNER LEFT MIRROR TRIANGLE151337120659$10.7102SEAL, INNER RIGHT MIRROR TRIANGLE151337120660$10.71


cheers
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      10-09-2008, 07:00 AM   #55
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The raw amateur's attempt

Removing the wood or metal trim piece is an absolute doddle. Start at the hinge end of the door, one little prise with a small screwdriver eases out the first connector and, moving your hand along the trim piece as you pull it off by stages (to prevent bending) and done. These are the connectors.

Now with the screws - torx heads, no screwdriver. After buying one, there are three screws behind the trim and - as it's the passenger side, a screw behind the handle (info from GIzzie).

It takes a lot of effort to prise the bottom of the trim away from the door and all round both vertical edges but how on earth can you get the door handle trim off without breaking it or leaving leverage marks on the door panel? There seems to be a pair of very strong plastic clips at each end of the trim piece and I can't tell if there are any top or bottom but you need at least three hands to even attempt it (the handle has to be pulled in the open position). Any suggestions anyone - apart from deliberate destruction and purchase a new trim piece?

Am I right in thinking that the handle trim doesn't have to come off on the driver's door?

More to follow when my bruised fingers recover.
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      10-09-2008, 07:11 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanQS View Post

Am I right in thinking that the handle trim doesn't have to come off on the driver's door?
Only the trim cover to get access to the screw - the handle itself stays on the door card.

Rather than using a screwdriver to prise trim off, get something like this;

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V70XC70-...-127-731-2542/

I use mine all the time now!!

About £1 from a Volvo dealer, not sure if other makes do similar tools?
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      10-09-2008, 07:50 AM   #57
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I realise only the trim cover comes off but clearly the handle has to be held open whilst prising the right hand side of the trim off - but what I need to know is do you have to use a lot of force to pop the bracket out and are there any clips on the top and the bottom?

Or is there a knack to it - i.e. press with a sharp object to the hooked part of the clip and it pops out - for example.
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      10-09-2008, 08:05 AM   #58
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One you have the 4 or 5 screws off, its just prising the sides and bottom away from the door, then a great deal of force upwards to unclip the top of the card from the door

If you are talking about the actual inside door handle, you dont have to do anything with it, it comes off with the card (I think)
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      10-09-2008, 08:41 AM   #59
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Yes, I am talking about the door handle trim because Gizze said in another thread that there is a screw behind the door handle on the passenger side. If you look at the picture below there appears to be two big hooks on the right hand side which means, coupled with the orientation of the door handle, prising the left hand side loose first whilst holding the door handle open should allow it to pop out from the left hand side. However with two sets of hands using flat blade screwdrivers to try and persuade it to pop out, it hasn't so far and as you can see, the edges of the plastic are beginning to mark.
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      10-09-2008, 09:03 AM   #60
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I'll let you know on Monday when I get an audio shop to fit it
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      10-09-2008, 09:37 AM   #61
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The door opening handle is not touched.
The handle that has a screw behind the trim is the door grab handle.
Remove all screws, you should have 3 or 4 screws depending on side plus one piece of trim and door grab handle cover. This is all that comes off, then prise door card free on front side, bottom and back side then lift door card upwards. This frees the top edge which has u shaped clips.
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      10-09-2008, 10:23 AM   #62
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Thanks for that. It's raining now so I will try the grab handle tomorrow. One thing puzzles me. In other cars in years gone by, when you remove the door card, the actual naked door opening handle remains fixed to the door. I don't understand how the door card can come off and take the handle with it.
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      10-09-2008, 10:41 AM   #63
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THe mechanism between the door handle and lock is fitted between the card and inner door, if memory serves me it is a cable and can be unhooked.
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      10-09-2008, 06:34 PM   #64
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I've just found out that the handle is attached to a cable and can confirm that the handle trim does not come off. I've now seen a picture of the back of this piece of trim and there is no way you would get it off with the number of clips it has - plus the back of it has a housing for the handle. There are two screws in the passenger side hand grip which you have to get by splitting the top of the curved handle along its top surface.

If it's dry tomorrow, I will be trying it.See this thread if you are curious.
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      10-11-2008, 07:20 AM   #65
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Prising the top face off the grab handle is easy, start at the top and just whip it off. There are two screws, one at the top of the handle and one at the bottom but not on the handle - it's recessed in the panel like the three main screws.

Having loosened the connectors of the door card at the bottom and sides I found that pulling the top of the card out and slightly up was better than heaving the whole card vertically as the clips at the top of the door are horizontal and that way they don't pop off.

Removing the mirror triangle whilst balancing the door card on my foot wasn't too bad. A clip flew out and I have no idea which part of the triangle it was from nor how it was fitted. I'll pay more attention when I do the driver's door. Try to use the clip as part of the support for the tweeter now comes from the door card.

Hopefully, now I know where the pitfalls are, the driver's side will be quicker and easier. There is only one spare connector socket on the speaker assembly so connecting the tweeter up is a doddle.
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      10-11-2008, 08:36 AM   #66
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As Gizze said, it's not a long job. Having conquered my fear of the unknown. It only took me 10 minutes to do the driver's side. Once you have loosened the bottom and the sides, pull out from the top of the door card to disconnect the top connectors and then pull up to go over the door lock lever.

There are four screws to undo in the driver's side behind the trim. One at each end and two screws in the middle which are down two tubes as shown below (right hand tube only half shown).

I notice a difference straight away in that "crisp" sounds like cymbals and snare can clearly be heard. I still haven't got the triangular pieces connected with the top clip but the door card keeps it in the right position so I'll have to see if there is any wind noise because of it.

Quite pleased. Next task will be fitting a sliding centre armrest.
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