[I35it]

Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ

PM sent!

Very interested to see where you got these as well!!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ

PM sent!

Originally Posted by I35it

Very interested to see where you got these as well!!

Ebay, $115 shipped.

[Fundguy1]

It's on their site too.

[chinko]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

My 135i is making massive power now, has a Quaife LSD, diff lock down bracket, and M3 rear guide rods. These arms should help keep toe in check, during hard accelerations.

I think Im pulling the trigger on these. Hopefully they will survive some track abuse, and our Canadian winters.

Where did you buy your Manzos?

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by chinko

Where did you buy your Manzos?

Directly from Manzo USA. The arms can also be bought from a couple of eBay vendors.

[StealYourFace]

A bump for these.

Had the car on the track last week- no other changes since last time out other than these arms... the rear of the car is much more stable under trail brake, especially on uneven sections of the track.

Highly recommended mod with no downside at all.
I will be doing their camber arms as well I imagine.

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

A bump for these.

Had the car on the track last week- no other changes since last time out other than these arms... the rear of the car is much more stable under trail brake, especially on uneven sections of the track.

Highly recommended mod with no downside at all.
I will be doing their camber arms as well I imagine.

Im impresed by the Megan toe arms, even if I was a little doubtful at first, due to price, and JDM centric product line...

The T.A.'s are awesome on the track. Stiffened up the rear, beyond what the M3 RFSB's did provive me with ...

I checked the Megan site, and the camber arms seem to be designed for E9x non-M cars. The trailing arms fit both the E9x and E8x chassis though.

[parksjm7]

An update: I finally did the install but left the arms unaligned for too long and got the steering angle sensor and dsc module acting up - I tried clearing it with toolset32 without success - gotta try the INPA method after I've read up enough about it, oh well live and learn, if anybody could walk me through this or have some tips, much appreciated.

For the arms themselves though? Great quality and cost effective - should be done when changing RFT's out with regular tires - the rear feels as tight as it should now

[SlimE92]

Are the eccentric bolts re used on these? My rear toe and camber bolts are seized and I'm thinking about swapping out to these after hearing good reviews.

[parksjm7]

Originally Posted by SlimE92

Are the eccentric bolts re used on these? My rear toe and camber bolts are seized and I'm thinking about swapping out to these after hearing good reviews.

If they're still in good condition, I don't see why not - alignment instructions per the Bentley manual state that the nut should be replaced, not the eccentric bolt. When I took mine out they were still in good shape and not rusted where they meet the nut. I hope you're able to get them un-seized though.

I used a wrench and breaker bar (having the wrench stuck against the exhaust piping and turning the breaker bar), after having them soak in liquid wrench / pb blaster to loosen up.

[11LMBiSTT]

I got a brand new set of Manzo Adjustable Toe Links for sale. PM if interested.

[hellokitty]

How are these Manzos holding up to the test of time?

[parksjm7]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

How are these Manzos holding up to the test of time?

mine are still in good shape. if you're considering them, I would advise a rustproof coating like fluid film but that's about it.

[Silnismo]

Wonder how these are holding up now in 2020, anyone have updates?

[parksjm7]

Originally Posted by Silnismo

Wonder how these are holding up now in 2020, anyone have updates?

No issues so far. only thing to note is that firestone doesn't seem to be able to torque these down correctly, I'm going back to stock arms from FCP - use the lifetime warranty every 2 yrs or so to keep the bushing integrity

[Silnismo]

Originally Posted by parksjm7

No issues so far. only thing to note is that firestone doesn't seem to be able to torque these down correctly, I'm going back to stock arms from FCP - use the lifetime warranty every 2 yrs or so to keep the bushing integrity

That's not bad for 3 + years, have any pics of it now?

Curious if they are rusting in any particular spots.

Thanks

[thormessiah]

Would there be any point in getting these if I don’t track the car?

Originally Posted by thormessiah

Would there be any point in getting these if I don’t track the car?

Yes.

[cvc 22349a]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

Would there be any point in getting these if I don’t track the car?

Depends if you've modified your suspension and to what extent. I'd say no if your suspension hasn't been modified.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

Depends if you've modified your suspension and to what extent. I'd say no if your suspension hasn't been modified.

I’m on m3 control arms and koni yellows with Eibach springs. Eibach front strut should go on by the end of the month.

[cvc 22349a]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

I’m on m3 control arms and koni yellows with Eibach springs. Eibach front strut should go on by the end of the month.

They help reduce toe changes under heavy load and make dialing toe while aligning easier. Modifying the suspensions on these cars that were engineered around hard, heavy runflat tires is a slippery slope hence my comment. The best mod imo for the rear of these cars is firmer subframe bushings or inserts. If you have a tuned 335 and are going to replace the subframe bushings I'd go with something firmer than M3.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

They help reduce toe changes under heavy load and make dialing toe while aligning easier. Modifying the suspensions on these cars that were engineered around hard, heavy runflat tires is a slippery slope hence my comment. The best mod imo for the rear of these cars is firmer subframe bushings or inserts. If you have a tuned 335 and are going to replace the subframe bushings I'd go with something firmer than M3.

I was looking at the aluminum ones bimmerworld sells. The only issue is having to drop the subframes to get to install them, I’ll have to wait till I get turbos replaced or some additional work back there. I’ll probably replace my trans and engine mounts too but keep them stock. Don’t want the ride too harsh