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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Should I replace Transmission mechatronic sealing or not?



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      04-06-2024, 11:17 AM   #1
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Exclamation Should I replace Transmission mechatronic sealing or not?

2011/N52K/323i haS 120K miles/ 180K km
god knows when was last transmission oil replaced
Transmission is GA6L45R







I have minor issue showing up since last year that when the gears are changing up/down I feel noticeable jerking in gears. Only happens at low speeds not on high speeds ( perhaps less noticeable at high speeds) and I have tried resetting adaptions from INPA/ISTA, no help though, there are no issues with RPM not matching with speed/acceleration yet.


so I am planning to replace to do transmission fluid and filter replacement but few garage shop owner youtubers are saying to change Mechatronic Sealing Sleeve Set as well.

I am not sure if I should do replace mechatronics sealings sleeve or not.









Please advise
thanks
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      04-06-2024, 01:04 PM   #2
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Yes you should also replace the sleeves. Sonnax has a zip kit for the GM transmission which includes seals, discs and checkballs for the valve body.
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      04-06-2024, 01:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordnikon View Post
Yes you should also replace the sleeves. Sonnax has a zip kit for the GM transmission which includes seals, discs and checkballs for the valve body.
This.
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      04-06-2024, 03:08 PM   #4
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+1 if you are having shift issues then first you can try the fluid and filter replacement. If that solves the problem maybe leave it at that, for a while at least.

If that does not improve the shifts, then yes drop the valve body and put in a Zip Kit and rebuild the pressure switches. Pressure switches caused harsh and wrong shifts for me (see post 12 here https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...8#post27318778)

You do not need the BMW seals. Just use GM ones. I did. (I also used aftermarket filter and gasket, but if FCP gives you lifetime replacement on those then go with those)
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 24238925 on Amazon.

I think Sonnax got rid of the $30 tool and disc rebuild kit for the pressure switches. You have to look around to see if you can get them separately or find other ways of installing the discs and grommets.


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      04-06-2024, 03:21 PM   #5
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Here is the 6L45 Zip Kit thread:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1494501

The Sonnax page has the instructions on the proper sequences and torques for disassembling and reassembling of the valve body. Follow those, particularly the bolt sequences on the plastic TEHCM unit onto the aluminum valve body.

I did not drop the transmission to install the parts for the ATF pump, only those for the valve body.

See if you want to install a new manual valve. 2011 should not have the problem of that valve snapping off (particularly on the awd models). But if the valve body is already dropped.....https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4522-manual-valve-assembly

I see Sonnax has now made available new plastic pressure switch pistons:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/5413-pr...plastic-piston

And Sonnax only sells a set of 10 pressure switch repair parts now. You may be able to find an old stock single kit out there.
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/5414-pr...ch-rebuild-kit

And the pressure switch tool sold separately now:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/5462-pr...ation-tool-kit
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      04-07-2024, 02:00 PM   #6
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alright, I will just do oil and filter for now and see how it goes,
i will try sleeves if oil and filter doesnt help

now,

there is no way I can drop transmission. I cant and I cant go anywhere to get this done, too much labor $$

so without dropping transmissions I guess I can only remove Valve body and replace sleeves on it?
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      04-07-2024, 02:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
+1 if you are having shift issues then first you can try the fluid and filter replacement. If that solves the problem maybe leave it at that, for a while at least.

If that does not improve the shifts, then yes drop the valve body and put in a Zip Kit and rebuild the pressure switches. Pressure switches caused harsh and wrong shifts for me (see post 12 here https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...8#post27318778)

You do not need the BMW seals. Just use GM ones. I did. (I also used aftermarket filter and gasket, but if FCP gives you lifetime replacement on those then go with those)
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 24238925 on Amazon.

I think Sonnax got rid of the $30 tool and disc rebuild kit for the pressure switches. You have to look around to see if you can get them separately or find other ways of installing the discs and grommets.





this one should be good with oil and filter?
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      04-07-2024, 03:20 PM   #8
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- To replace the GM seals in that kit, the valve body needs to be dropped. GM used some stupid modified Torx bolts to hold the valve body. I heard in later years they went allen cap screws? Not sure about that. I did buy a stupid socket just for this purpose.

- For the replacement of the filter plate in the GM kit, the plastic TEHCM control module needs to be removed from the valve body.

- To replace the check ball (use the Sonnax brown check balls, which are longer lasting than the toy BBs GM included in the kit) and other Zip Kit parts, the two halves of the valve body have to be disassembled.

So the part mentioned above come with increased amount of work to install. If you come as far as dropping the valve body, I would say change the flimsy pressure switches (high failure parts) and throw in the Zip Kit's valve body portion of the fix.

The three o-ring/square seals in the GM kit is for the case sleeve. The old sleeve is reused, just replace the o-ring/sequare seals from the kit.

Therefore, if you are looking at the lowest possible cost and effort, then drop the pan, change out the filter and seal, and refill with new Dexron VI (I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF). In this case you do not need to use the GM kit or the Zip Kit, unless you want to change out the 3 case sleeve seals.

If you later decide to do the Zip Kit and pressure switches, feel free to ask before you start. Some members have done those.
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      04-07-2024, 03:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
- To replace the GM seals in that kit, the valve body needs to be dropped. GM used some stupid modified Torx bolts to hold the valve body. I heard in later years they went allen cap screws? Not sure about that. I did buy a stupid socket just for this purpose.

- For the replacement of the filter plate in the GM kit, the plastic TEHCM control module needs to be removed from the valve body.

- To replace the check ball (use the Sonnax brown check balls, which are longer lasting than the toy BBs GM included in the kit) and other Zip Kit parts, the two halves of the valve body have to be disassembled.

So the part mentioned above come with increased amount of work to install. If you come as far as dropping the valve body, I would say change the flimsy pressure switches (high failure parts) and throw in the Zip Kit's valve body portion of the fix.

The three o-ring/square seals in the GM kit is for the case sleeve. The old sleeve is reused, just replace the o-ring/sequare seals from the kit.

Therefore, if you are looking at the lowest possible cost and effort, then drop the pan, change out the filter and seal, and refill with new Dexron VI (I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF). In this case you do not need to use the GM kit or the Zip Kit, unless you want to change out the 3 case sleeve seals.

If you later decide to do the Zip Kit and pressure switches, feel free to ask before you start. Some members have done those.
Good man, thank you for making my day, I will keep those acdelco kit and zip kit in cart for now
but will do filter,seal + oil for now.
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