[Armadyllo]

Finally got around to having the new VRSF HD IC, RB silicone turbo inlets and outlets installed

When the work shop installed the new bolt ons they ended up dropping the motor to fix a coolant leak on the turbo lines, turbo’s were removed and reinstalled with new orings, funny thing is now the turbo’s have an exhaust rattle,
I don’t think it’s being caused by the turbo’s itself due to having reco’d turbo’s installed with the upgraded shaft / bush for the waste gate approximately 12,000klms back, they seemed fine before removal although I could hear a very small rattle after I did PE exhaust modification a few weeks back which I put down to extra noise of the PE mod but nothing like it is now.

As a test I tried to use the JB4 to help fix the problem by changing the default waste gate position from 80 to 60 to 40 and changed the FUD from 96 to 98 without a real noticeable difference.

After a bit of research last night a possibility could be the boost solenoids a few people have had WG rattle with new turbos and fixed the problem by replacing them, these were not replaced when I changed out the turbo’s.

All boost and vacuum lines were pressure tested so I can’t see that as the cause

Only other thing I can think of is software issues I will try and re-flash the Trebila BEF and hope for the best lol

Would it be worth re setting the adaptions when I re-flash

Appreciate your thoughts

Thanks

Dyll

[vtl]

My guess is that the wastegate arm may have gotten loose or damaged upon reassembly, its sometimes tempting to physically carry the turbos by the actuator (they look like a convenient handle) but the turbos are heavy and they shouldn't really be handled like that.

You'd have to ask the installer to see if they did anything to them (although most workshops would obviously deny it)

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by vtl

My guess is that the wastegate arm may have gotten loose or damaged upon reassembly, its sometimes tempting to physically carry the turbos by the actuator (they look like a convenient handle) but the turbos are heavy and they shouldn't really be handled like that.

You'd have to ask the installer to see if they did anything to them (although most workshops would obviously deny it)

Thanks Vince

Its quite a reputable shop and I did ask the possibility of damage or knocks to the arms while working on them. Sounds like they were taken off and pretty much put back on straight away, hard one to prove either way.

Can anything be done to check or fix these while still on the car ?

Thanks

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Armadyllo

Thanks Vince

Its quite a reputable shop and I did ask the possibility of damage or knocks to the arms while working on them. Sounds like they were taken off and pretty much put back on straight away, hard one to prove either way.

Can anything be done to check or fix these while still on the car ?

Thanks

You can check the rear actuator for looseness pretty easily (if you don't have 3" downpipes that block access)

Front actuator is quite tricky to access and would require quite a lot of stuff removed.

Readjustment of the rear is not that hard

Front is very difficult to adjust the arm, you can cheat it by unbolting the actuator and stacking washers in between the canister and bracket, effectively shortening the rod, but if yours are loose you'd still need to tighten it anyway.

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by vtl

You can check the rear actuator for looseness pretty easily (if you don't have 3" downpipes that block access)

Front actuator is quite tricky to access and would require quite a lot of stuff removed.

Readjustment of the rear is not that hard

Front is very difficult to adjust the arm, you can cheat it by unbolting the actuator and stacking washers in between the canister and bracket, effectively shortening the rod, but if yours are loose you'd still need to tighten it anyway.

Sounds like it will be fun on mine with the 3" DP's and inlets.

Cheers Vince

[Brule]

Replace waste gate solenoids as a start.

Adjusting menu 10 and 12 May mask it but may not achieve throttle response you want.

I personally wouldn't adjust the waste gate arms unless they are noticeably out.

It's just the nature of internal waste gates.
I suggest tune it to go how you like the feel and get used to the rattles.

[Brule]

Put up a build thread
If you have a lpfp upgrade zoom zoom for you!

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by Brule

Put up a build thread
If you have a lpfp upgrade zoom zoom for you!

Thanks Brule

With the new additions I will see if Trebila can squeeze out some more ponies

Then a stage 2 bucket less lpfp will be on the list, still playing with 98 atm

I don't even know how to upload a photo let alone a build thread

[MJ80.]

Hey mate jump on the facebook group aus 335 and 135 thats got everyone from here on there and is alot easier to share photos ect than coming onto the website.

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by MJ80.

Hey mate jump on the facebook group aus 335 and 135 thats got everyone from here on there and is alot easier to share photos ect than coming onto the website.

legend thanks MJ

Funny I just joined a few days back

cheers

Dyll

[Armadyllo]

Sent the car back to Mechanic for a check.

Pressure tested all vacuum lines, he had a new set of solenoids so temporarily installed those which made now change to the rattle.

The strange part its only the rear turbo making the rattle

Maybe adjusting the actuator may fix the problem ?

Has anyone had much experience with adjustment ?

Or maybe its time for a set of Stage 2 pure turbos

Thanks

[vtl]

Did they check the play in the wastegate arm? Even on my car with over 180k on it theres no axial play in the actuator. All the play is lateral play in the wastegate bushing.

Maybe if its an aftermarket turbo the wastegates have been rebuilt and the wastegate arm nut is loose. Best to get under the car and see what kind of play it is. I would only tighten the arm if the actuator itself has worked itself loose, tightening it up to fix lateral play in the actual wastegate lever is not a great idea imo.

[Socket]

Don't install PS2s mate mine only lasted 10K before smoking. Stick with OEM turbos or go ST
I learnt this the hard way

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by vtl

Did they check the play in the wastegate arm? Even on my car with over 180k on it theres no axial play in the actuator. All the play is lateral play in the wastegate bushing.

Maybe if its an aftermarket turbo the wastegates have been rebuilt and the wastegate arm nut is loose. Best to get under the car and see what kind of play it is. I would only tighten the arm if the actuator itself has worked itself loose, tightening it up to fix lateral play in the actual wastegate lever is not a great idea imo.

Thanks Vince

I'll quote the workshops words

"We’ve been having a look over your car checked out all the electronic actuators and vacuum hoses down to the turbos and all is good there, we have found excessive movement in the wastegate rod on the rear turbo and this is causing the rattle."

If you don't mind mate I might trouble you to have a look at it if that's ok

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by Socket

Don't install PS2s mate mine only lasted 10K before smoking. Stick with OEM turbos or go ST
I learnt this the hard way

Thanks for the info Soc, I assumed from what I have read the Pure's are one of the better aftermarket turbo's.

When you say OEM is that only stock or modified Hi Flowed OEM's

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Armadyllo

Thanks for the info Soc, I assumed from what I have read the Pure's are one of the better aftermarket turbo's.

When you say OEM is that only stock or modified Hi Flowed OEM's

Just stockies mate

[Armadyllo]

Originally Posted by Socket

Just stockies mate

Thanks Mate

[Armadyllo]

Update on the WG rattle.

We managed to adjust the rear turbo actuator arm and take away 95% of the rattle.

Happy Days (for now)

Thanks for peoples input

Cheers

Dyll