[jadams161]

If anyone has time to look at my log.. Version 2 of a custom tune. Just switched to a 3.5bar TMAP and Tial BOV.
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/wedge-v...=1&data=3-4-21

[CarAbuser]

Originally Posted by jadams161

If anyone has time to look at my log.. Version 2 of a custom tune. Just switched to a 3.5bar TMAP and Tial BOV.
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/wedge-v...=1&data=3-4-21

You need a new LPFP. Also too many corrections there, if your plugs and coils are old then you can try new ones. You should be OK with that boost and timing on 93.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

You need a new LPFP. Also too many corrections there, if your plugs and coils are old then you can try new ones. You should be OK with that boost and timing on 93.

Everything is new, few thousand miles. It's a 2009 with 62k. I did notice the LPFP drop off. I did upgrade the LPFP sensor last year. Because of a shadow code on it. That's the first time seeing that. Did the log on a full tank. My hpfp has been changed several times by bmw over the years. Car starts, idles and drives perfectly..
Looking at the Boost Concepts unit. Drop in stage 2..$350

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

Everything is new, few thousand miles. It's a 2009 with 62k. I did notice the LPFP drop off. I did upgrade the LPFP sensor last year. Because of a shadow code on it. That's the first time seeing that. Did the log on a full tank. My hpfp has been changed several times by bmw over the years. Car starts, idles and drives perfectly..

Corrections are minor and mostly on 1 cylinder at a time, it's probably due to your fuel quality. You can add some E85 and see if they go away. Also I'd wait till tuner has dialed in the tune or at least a couple of more revisions before throwing parts at it.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Corrections are minor and mostly on 1 cylinder at a time, it's probably due to your fuel quality. You can add some E85 and see if they go away. Also I'd wait till tuner has dialed in the tune or at least a couple of more revisions before throwing parts at it.

OK. I can't get any E85 or anything near me.. Best is 93.I was getting that fuel pump plausibility code all last year. Change sensor and it went away. I don't mind buying a good pump if it future proofs the fuel system a bit and gives me some headroom.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

OK. I can't get any E85 or anything near me.. Best is 93.I was getting that fuel pump plausibility code all last year. Change sensor and it went away. I don't mind buying a good pump if it future proofs the fuel system a bit and gives me some headroom.

No worries mate.

[235eye4me]

First time posting here but this is an awesome thread, any expert advise would be greatly appreciated.

*mhd custom tune - full e85 ( supporting mods done accordingly )
*2015 M235i Manual 6 speed - 55k miles

Again thanks for any insight on the torque limiter kicking in near 700nm?

It was my assumption manuals didn't have limits set..

Here is recent log showing as such;

https://datazap.me/u/235-4-me/log-16...17-19-20-21-27

[husker335i]

N55e on stage 1 no other mods. Is a stft that progressively is goes to -23% during the logging pull normal?

[jadams161]

New log for 3rd revision of Wedge tune.
Going to replace the LPFP this weekend with a Walbro 450 and a new pressure regulator/filter on left side tank.
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/wedge-v3?log=0&data=3-4-21

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

New log for 3rd revision of Wedge tune.
Going to replace the LPFP this weekend with a Walbro 450 and a new pressure regulator/filter on left side tank.
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/wedge-v3?log=0&data=3-4-21

Looks fine apart from LPFP and throttle seems all over the place. Can you ask Wedge why that is, would like to hear the explanation?

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Looks fine apart from LPFP and throttle seems all over the place. Can you ask Wedge why that is, would like to hear the explanation?

Doing the pump Saturday. I see the accel pedal pos is 100% but i see what you are saying about throttle position. Is that the throttle body opening and closing? I wonder if the fuel pressure could cause that? I don't have any codes for boost or vacuum leaks. DSC is completely off.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

Doing the pump Saturday. I see the accel pedal pos is 100% but i see what you are saying about throttle position. Is that the throttle body opening and closing? I wonder if the fuel pressure could cause that? I don't have any codes for boost or vacuum leaks. DSC is completely off.

Yeah it's the throttle position, should be wide open unless you have overboosting, DSC/DTC cutting in etc, I'd like to know the reason, I've seen it on V10 OTS maps as well, pretty sure it's tune related.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Yeah it's the throttle position, should be wide open unless you have overboosting, DSC/DTC cutting in etc, I'd like to know the reason, I've seen it on V10 OTS maps as well, pretty sure it's tune related.

DTC is 100% off. Kickdown off. Found this posted on MHD group...


"Throttle closure is due to load over load req. Period.
Boost can be 30psi with target at 20psi and as long as load is under target the throttle will be wide open.
Of course, once the throttle closes boost will rise as it is measured pre throttle.
On stock cars the boost target to load target relationship is pretty accurate and if boost is on target load will be on target and throttle closures will be minimal.
As you increase the efficiency of the turbo you will require less boost to hit a given load so boost on target will result in load over target.
OTS maps cannot fine tune this for every car. They are setup for the median."

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

DTC is 100% off. Kickdown off. Found this posted on MHD group...


"Throttle closure is due to load over load req. Period.
Boost can be 30psi with target at 20psi and as long as load is under target the throttle will be wide open.
Of course, once the throttle closes boost will rise as it is measured pre throttle.
On stock cars the boost target to load target relationship is pretty accurate and if boost is on target load will be on target and throttle closures will be minimal.
As you increase the efficiency of the turbo you will require less boost to hit a given load so boost on target will result in load over target.
OTS maps cannot fine tune this for every car. They are setup for the median."

Thanks for posting the reply.

[One843]

Hello gents and ladies
Anyone bored and want to take a look at my logs it would be like greatly appreciated.
I am losing boost and ready need it back in my life.
On MHD stock map I am getting 3psi.
Stage 1, I am getting 6-7psi
Why would the boost achieved bepend on the map?
A leak is a leak right?
2007 335i

https://datazap.me/u/one843/n54-stock-map-3rd-gear

[Randyw89]

Hey guys,

Brand new to The forum, and BMWÂ’s in general. Just picked up this 2009 335i and it has really rough cold starts,after itÂ’s warm it starts fine. Also when I try to give it much past 1/2 throttle it misfires and cuts power getting into boost. My thoughts originally were hpfp but based on the logs below, one is in the stage 2+ and the other is in stage 1+, could it be lpfp or something else? Similar results. Any help would be appreciated

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-...data=3-4-12-13

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-1?log=0&data=3-13

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by One843

Hello gents and ladies
Anyone bored and want to take a look at my logs it would be like greatly appreciated.
I am losing boost and ready need it back in my life.
On MHD stock map I am getting 3psi.
Stage 1, I am getting 6-7psi
Why would the boost achieved bepend on the map?
A leak is a leak right?
2007 335i

https://datazap.me/u/one843/n54-stock-map-3rd-gear

Stage 1 targets higher boost than stock, so it's not surprising that actual boost is higher than your stock map levels.

Just for your records approximately 7-8 psi is actually supposed to be stock boost, your stage 1 map is targeting approximately 13.5 psi, which your turbos should easily hit.

You probably have a boost leak, a smoke test is a good idea. Replace all vacumn lines if you haven't done so and check all connections including vacumn cannister connection, FMIC, charge pipe connection etc, Diverter valves

Next thing to do is adjust your Wastegate actuator rods, if that still doesn't fix the problem, replace boost solenoids. If the problem persist, your turbos are most likely buggered.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Randyw89

Hey guys,

Brand new to The forum, and BMWÂ’s in general. Just picked up this 2009 335i and it has really rough cold starts,after itÂ’s warm it starts fine. Also when I try to give it much past 1/2 throttle it misfires and cuts power getting into boost. My thoughts originally were hpfp but based on the logs below, one is in the stage 2+ and the other is in stage 1+, could it be lpfp or something else? Similar results. Any help would be appreciated

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-...data=3-4-12-13

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-1?log=0&data=3-13

You need to read up on the N54. Its always maintenance before tune. You need to do plugs, coils, and all needed upgrades prior to any tuning. MHD will immediately expose any weak ignition parts, causing misfires.

[Randyw89]

Originally Posted by jadams161

You need to read up on the N54. Its always maintenance before tune. You need to do plugs, coils, and all needed upgrades prior to any tuning. MHD will immediately expose any weak ignition parts, causing misfires.

Hey Thanks for the reply, definitely about to do the coils and plugs. The car was already tuned from MHD, has all of the accompanying mods (fmic , charge pipe, down pipes etc) Of course it didn’t seem to have an issue while I was test driving but got it home from out of town and it sat a day and started having these issues. Under normal, warm driving it is great. So I decided to buy the MHD stuff to monitor etc since they don’t allow it to transfer. Just wondering if one of the fuel pump may be one of the culprits

[iqraceworks]

Like others have said... maintenance in number one on these cars. Change the oil and filter, service the transmission, install new plugs and coils, install a new serpentine belt, and fix any oil or coolant leaks........that will keep 95% of the common issues with these cars from giving you issues.

As far as rough cold starts.....your injector(s) are probably leaking. Read up on how to check your spark plugs to see while injectors are leaking....and replace them ASAP. Fuel in the oil can eat up your bearings.

All the not fun, boring, expensive stuff that really doesn't make your car any faster...or look better....really is where you need to spend your money first, or you are going to hate your "new to you" 335i. The majority of the issues people have with these cars all revolves around the fact that they don't keep up on maintenance. They are maintenance hogs....and require time and money to keep them running right. If you fart in the seat....it will throw a code and put the car into limp mode! Just kidding....sort of.

Good luck! This is a great place to learn about these cars 👍

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Like others have said... maintenance in number one on these cars. Change the oil and filter, service the transmission, install new plugs and coils, install a new serpentine belt, and fix any oil or coolant leaks........that will keep 95% of the common issues with these cars from giving you issues.

As far as rough cold starts.....your injector(s) are probably leaking. Read up on how to check your spark plugs to see while injectors are leaking....and replace them ASAP. Fuel in the oil can eat up your bearings.

All the not fun, boring, expensive stuff that really doesn't make your car any faster...or look better....really is where you need to spend your money first, or you are going to hate your "new to you" 335i. The majority of the issues people have with these cars all revolves around the fact that they don't keep up on maintenance. They are maintenance hogs....and require time and money to keep them running right. If you fart in the seat....it will throw a code and put the car into limp mode! Just kidding....sort of.

Good luck! This is a great place to learn about these cars 👍

[vanyaaa]

m having cylinder 6 misfires on WOT at the very top of the rpm range. They are consistent if I do not shift in time and stay at redline. However, shifting at around 5.5-6k rpm or even letting sport shift usually means I will not get a misfire. No codes except 29D2.
Spark plugs and coils all changed (ordered just before misfire started and fitted after it started) and no change. Will pull the plug again and swap along with the coil to different cylinders but was thinking its something else?
Could anyone have a look at my log and let me know if theres anything that stands out.
Thanks

https://datazap.me/u/vanya/cyl-6-mis...og=0&data=3-21