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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Negotiating CPO asking price? Advise



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      09-15-2013, 08:46 PM   #1
mc
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Negotiating CPO asking price? Advise

How much lower can you negotiate on CPO asking price?
I found a CPO 2011 3281 sedan w/M-Sport pkg, auto
13,670 miles
asking $29,360.

I was thinking on negotiating from $25k. Is this reasonable? They sent me a copy of CPO checklist and carfax.
It looks like maintenance is minimal at this mileage, oil change sevice, brake flush,scuff mark on front and rear bumper,repaired. It's a lease return is the reason for low miles. It looks not much reconditioning is required. Any advise is appreciated. Never purchased CPO before. Any advise is much appreciated. TIA.
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      09-15-2013, 09:04 PM   #2
D-Ros
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I had no luck at all negotiating on the purchase price of my CPO 2011 328i, although it was the only 6mt at the time within a 2 hour drive. You will probably have more luck with an automatic since there are far more of them. I think $29.3 down to $25 is probably not reasonable. My bet is $27.5 or $28.
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      09-15-2013, 10:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Ros View Post
I had no luck at all negotiating on the purchase price of my CPO 2011 328i, although it was the only 6mt at the time within a 2 hour drive. You will probably have more luck with an automatic since there are far more of them. I think $29.3 down to $25 is probably not reasonable. My bet is $27.5 or $28.


I just found on truecar.com has average price of $31,531. Good price is at $30,601 and $29,360 is great price. $26-27k would be a good starting point.
I have to sharpen my negotiating skills.
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      09-15-2013, 10:40 PM   #4
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I just purchased my 328xi yesterday. They will only negotiate a few hundred unless you have another one secured and ready to pull the trigger. . Compare pricing with Cars.com and use that as your bargaining chip. I got a sedan with 16k w/Nav and Satellite radio for $27,300. I had to travel an hour from home because my local dealer was $1000 more.

Last edited by compdr59; 09-15-2013 at 10:45 PM..
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      09-15-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compdr59 View Post
I just purchased my 328xi yesterday. They will only negotiate a few hundred unless you have another one secured and ready to pull the trigger. . Compare pricing with Cars.com and use that as your bargaining chip. I got a sedan with 16k w/Nav and Satellite radio for $27,300. I had to travel an hour from home because my local dealer was $1000 more.
Nice!!! This deal I found is in L.A., 4-5 hours drive from home but it looks like a good deal. I can't seem to find in my area.
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      09-15-2013, 11:20 PM   #6
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Here's what I told each of the dealerships I visited, and I was not lying about any of them:

1. I'm willing to travel up and down the state for the right car at the right price. I don't mind taking a train or a road trip to get to it, then drive the car home. I love road trips, so it's no bother at all. By telling them this, they know their competition is the entire state of California, not just the dealerships in next town over and the used car lots.

2. I'm in no big hurry to buy, but if we can agree on a good price, I'll sign on the dotted line today. I really was not in a hurry to buy my car, as I was looking around and browsing. I had trips coming up to go to OC and San Diego, and the inventory is just as good as the Bay Area.

3. I am interested in this car, but I can't accept this price at this time. However, please let me know if you have other buyers looking at this car. Please give me first dibs. If you ask nicely, and explain to them if this happens the odds might be in their favor, they'll most likely keep you in mind.

And wait until towards the end of the month, like on the 25th or so. Not at the end of the month, where they're working on a bunch of deals at the same time, because you could very easily be written off as a casualty if they have higher-dollar customers on the line.

The bottom line is this, and I'm repeating myself...Treat the sales guys/gals with respect. When you walk into a BMW dealership, you're not dealing with Sergio the Slimeball at Wheelz for Less, who is trying to sell you a high-mileage E90 with bling rims. These are professionals at the top of their game. Be respectful, but make sure you're respect-worthy. It makes the negotiating process go a lot smoother.

Oh, and the car you're looking at...$25-26k seems like a decent price.
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      09-15-2013, 11:37 PM   #7
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It depends on a few factors. One is how long the car has been there. Dealerships want to move cars, the longer a car sits, the more they are eager to sell it. Next is how much they have already marked it up. Dealerships set their prices usually pretty high knowing that there is a good possibility they will be worked down a little bit. It definitely helps not to seem eager. Obviously they want to sell the car, and if they see you are eager they will have you right where they want you. Also if you can find anything wrong with the car, that's always reason to negotiate the price lower.

Sometimes you can tell how much they want to sell the car, which means the ball is in your court. if they really want to sell the car, and you are a half decent negotiator, you can work some nice numbers. Now if there is a big demand for those cars in your area, then the ball is in the dealers court as they are not going to lower the price if they know someone else will most likely buy it for the price listed.
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      09-15-2013, 11:40 PM   #8
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And believe it or not, dealers know every trick in the book. They know the game of selling cars and the language their potential buyer is going to use. I got a very nice price on my car, and I simply told them I could not afford the price they were offering me, but I really love the car and if they could just work with me a little more I will but it. I was just being nice, not playing any "games" and they appreciated that and gave me a nice price. They were nice people at the dealership and I think they just respected me as an honest buyer trying to afford the car of his dreams.
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      09-16-2013, 12:31 AM   #9
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Honestly CPO cars don't get NEG much. Maybe $500-$1000 at best, and thats the best I did on my E90. It also depends on the area. I live in and looked at cars in one of the wealthiest areas of the country, it sucks buying cars here because the dealership will always have buyers who will buy the car for the full price.

It happened right in front of me while I was buying my car, a young girl came in and looked at a 07 or 08 328xi convertible that was listed for $31k at the dealership. She drove it and I guess loved it so she bought it right then and there with no NEG whatsoever. I was shocked but my salesman said this is very normal. Whats even more funny is that when I came home I saw the car listed online for $28.500k, she overpaid by $2500. Dealers often put a much higher price on the car window than they do online. Even my car had some absurd price listed on the window, I told them to gtfo when they told me that was the price.
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      09-16-2013, 02:06 AM   #10
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$30K is a ridiculously high price for a 3 year old 328i. That's 335i money around here.
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      09-16-2013, 06:15 AM   #11
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What I've always found is that when you are willing to walk out the door, you can get a better price. You cannot beat the house, but you can do better than the avg. Joe before you. c'mon I bought my 335i coupe in 10/06, when zero were in stock at any dealer nationwide, wait list. At first I was told list price. I walked out the door. By monday it was $1700 off, "But don't tell any of your friends about this deal, I can't give it to anybody else." Please.

Then they tried to add MACO and training fees. I said cancel my order and give the allocation to somebody else. Oh snap, suddenly the fees evaporated. They could have easily got another su**** to pay list, so why would they accept my $1,700 off? Because it's a bird in hand.

The way to fight overpaying is to accept the fact that you may not be able to afford what you want. I cannot afford a 2013 M3. So, if I'm shopping for one, I tell the salesperson up-front, since I can't afford it, either you come down, or I don't buy it. They try to play upon your ego (like many on this forum who brag about what they can afford). Another trick is to say you have to check with your wife or g/f. It's like wearing a pink shirt, if you're confident, they cannot psychologically play it against you (can't you make a decision without your wife or g/f, on your own?).

Remember, you're not trying to buy an iPhone or iPad--there, there is no room for negotiation. Buying a BMW is quite the opposite--most people out there cannot afford them, even though they want them.
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      09-16-2013, 06:35 AM   #12
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People that say that they had no luck need to seriously learn to fight for their shit. My 335xi was going for $33,499 (loaded 2011 with 25k miles) I got it down to 31k. So yes if you hold your own they will budge.
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      09-16-2013, 01:50 PM   #13
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negotiate from a position of power.
Tell them what you are willing to pay out the door. Have your own financing, which is cash. Be ready to walk. Do not fall in love with a car. There are way too many.

I paid $6k off book for my 2008 335i in Jan 2012.
I paid $23K for a CPO 45K mile car.

Be ready to walk.
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      09-16-2013, 02:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techwhiz View Post
negotiate from a position of power.
Tell them what you are willing to pay out the door. Have your own financing, which is cash. Be ready to walk. Do not fall in love with a car. There are way too many.

I paid $6k off book for my 2008 335i in Jan 2012.
I paid $23K for a CPO 45K mile car.

Be ready to walk.
Very good tip about the financing. The dealer will always match. The credit union should always be lower than what's found locally, a PenFed or Navy Fed. They used to be 1.49%, now 1.99%. Your local bank can't touch that. But inevitably, the dealer will never let you finance through your CU, they will offer the same rate. They have a monetary incentive to do so, as well as getting their cash faster. Plus, the CU charges the same rate for used, as new.
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      09-16-2013, 02:23 PM   #15
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all very good tips above...I just made sure they realized I was willing to go to different dealerships to find the right deal...and that they knew I knew what the true value of the car is (i.e. blackbook or kbb). If they give you some nonsense about not taking those values into account, make sure to let them know those are the values they use when you are trying to trade in a vehicle at the dealership.
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      09-16-2013, 02:27 PM   #16
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You want to know what the best advice is? Walk out the door if they don't work with you, if they stop you or whatever then great, if not then move on to the next car. Leave them your number at first too, if they want to sell the car maybe they will call you back later that day.

The whole pretend to not be interested or walk out doesn't really work, jut be okay with not buying the car and walking out if you need to. With enough patience, you will find the one you want at a good price. Don't be like me and just jump on the first one you see lol
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      09-16-2013, 02:41 PM   #17
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Another trick is to pretend you have another call to take while face-to-face with the salesperson. You just have your ringtone go off, and unapologetically say you have to take this call.

Then do your Cheech and Chong impression, "And then I'm going to take off your dress... And then I'm going to take off your bra... And then I'm going to take off your shoes."
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      09-16-2013, 02:43 PM   #18
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3400 off asking price. Everything is negotiable. Go towards the end of the month too, as others have said. Make sure you have priced comparable cars at other dealers to get a sense what it's worth. Dealers know their stuff and cars that are more rare command a higher price and they know it.
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      09-16-2013, 02:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92 M Sport View Post
Everything is negotiable.
That is very good advice when you are considering a new job, and the recruiter found you through linkedin. Some people are still embarassed about haggling, not just with cars, but for your job.

You have one chance, and one chance only to talk salary when you take a new job--at the onset. Don't be shy about asking for 30k+ more, if you realistically already have a job and think you're worth it.

I did this recently, and after 3 interviews, did not get the position. BUT, I already have a job and they sought me out. So nothing ventured, nothing gained. We all find our equilibrium, that, or rise to our levels of incompetency....
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      09-16-2013, 11:01 PM   #20
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Thanks for all good advice. I am verify much impressed on your buying strategy. I will sure take all your advice into account when starting my negotiation.
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      09-17-2013, 08:25 AM   #21
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Im not suprised since its M sport. I looked at 2 cars, both 2011 335s, one was a 335i M sport with 35k, one was a 335i X drive STD with 28k. They wanted 34,000 for the RWD M sport so I walked out with an AWD STD with lower miles and a better piece of mind.
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      09-19-2013, 08:47 AM   #22
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Different dealers have different pricing strategies, so what worked at one dealer may not work at another. If the car you are looking at is already one of the lowest priced cars out there, don't expect to get a lot taken off the price. Also, some of the lowest priced cars out there are also the ones that are in the worst condition. If enough people come to look at a car and it's not in the best shape, a dealer will lower it to help it sell.

If you like a car, work the deal, but make sure you buy the damn car.
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