[iqraceworks]

I'm getting ready to install my RB TWO's this weekend (seems like I never have enough free time). I'm planning on cleaning my coolant and oil lines really well and just reusing them with new o-rings.

As far as rod bearings go...I'm not planning on touching them unless I can get the motor out of the car and do it right. I've heard too many horror stories of guys doing it from the bottom with the motor still in the car and either not getting them torqued correctly, not keeping stuff clean enough, having tolerance issues with the new bearings, getting stuff installed wrong..etc,etc,etc....all leading to more rod bearing issues than they had to start with (usually none).

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I'm getting ready to install my RB TWO's this weekend (seems like I never have enough free time). I'm planning on cleaning my coolant and oil lines really well and just reusing them with new o-rings.

As far as rod bearings go...I'm not planning on touching them unless I can get the motor out of the car and do it right. I've heard too many horror stories of guys doing it from the bottom with the motor still in the car and either not getting them torqued correctly, not keeping stuff clean enough, having tolerance issues with the new bearings, getting stuff installed wrong..etc,etc,etc....all leading to more rod bearing issues than they had to start with (usually none).

Would be interesting to see a log on the RB TWO's ince you start dialing it in with a custom map. My stock one don't sound like they will last very long. Looks like I'll have to send it to the moon before it blows.

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Would be interesting to see a log on the RB TWO's ince you start dialing it in with a custom map. My stock one don't sound like they will last very long. Looks like I'll have to send it to the moon before it blows.

Here is my RB two log on 92 oct tuned by v8bait (Justin Hubenak)

https://datazap.me/u/tyc0/more-timin...-23&solo=3

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Here is my RB two log on 92 oct tuned by v8bait (Justin Hubenak)

https://datazap.me/u/tyc0/more-timin...ta=3-23&solo=3

How much power would you say its making at present?

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

How much power would you say its making at present?

I don't know for sure but according to rob and my tuner they guessed ~475

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Here is my RB two log on 92 oct tuned by v8bait (Justin Hubenak)

https://datazap.me/u/tyc0/more-timin...ta=3-23&solo=3

How did you like working with Justin? He's who I've decided to use also when it comes to tuning.

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

How did you like working with Justin? He's who I've decided to use also when it comes to tuning.

He was great for me, always responded within 1-2 days and still does if I have questions. I think we did something like ten revisions in about two months. Most of the time it was me waiting for the roads to dry. And he's cheaper than everywhere else I looked.

[lordbmw]

Stock turbos here. They’re still working great with 85k miles on them. No rattling at all.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Quick update:

Spoke with Rob today, due to some new budget restrictions, I'll be ordering a set of RB OEM replacements (sadly not billets), inlets, and install kit. I had planned on ordering outlets too but after speaking with Rob, he just told me to save my money (basically said they're not worth it under 500hp).

For anyone curious, after core returns and wire transfer, comes out to about $1300.

I've said it once and i'll likely say it a million more times, im a firm believer in preventive maintenance. I've been getting my FCP cart ready for things i'll need. I have motor mounts (no brainer), new waterpump/t-stat (on warranty), and coolant hose o-rings. After some deliberation i'm somewhat on the fence about two things. Keep in mind i'm trying to keep overall price down.

Number one is rod bearings. I'd love to do them, especially with my car's history of oil that smells like fuel (oil analysis confirmed that there was barely any though). I'd love to hear from anyone who's done them with success.

Second item is feed/drain lines. I'm at ~132k, and i'm sure the lines are original. Those who've replaced their twins, did you replace all the feed/drain lines? I'm wondering if replacing the oil lines but re-using the coolant lines will be my best bet? Or should I just attempt to re-use them all?

Re: feed/drain lines: The coolant ones should be perfectly fine as long as no oil has gotten into your coolant. I see no reason to replace if they are not damaged or brittle. As for oil lines, if you are not the original owner, and don't know how the previous owner handled cooling down, definitely replace feed/drain lines. My new ones are sirening after 7k and keeping original oil lines (84k at the time) and I suspect there might not be enough oil flow due to carbon build up. A friend's racing team had an M240iR turbo seize this past week due to a clogged drain line, you don't want to find that out the hard way. I know it's tough on a budget but the last thing you want to do is replace turbos again in 1000 miles because the bearings are destroyed from $220 of lines

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by ab987

Re: feed/drain lines: The coolant ones should be perfectly fine as long as no oil has gotten into your coolant. I see no reason to replace if they are not damaged or brittle. As for oil lines, if you are not the original owner, and don't know how the previous owner handled cooling down, definitely replace feed/drain lines. My new ones are sirening after 7k and keeping original oil lines (84k at the time) and I suspect there might not be enough oil flow due to carbon build up. A friend's racing team had an M240iR turbo seize this past week due to a clogged drain line, you don't want to find that out the hard way. I know it's tough on a budget but the last thing you want to do is replace turbos again in 1000 miles because the bearings are destroyed from $220 of lines

Was exactly my thought. Better to spend the extra on new lines than ruin a new set of turbos.

I have a buddy who's a Porsche dealer tech. Spoke with him about a few things. I've decided against doing my rod bearings for the time being. This will all be done on my driveway and no way will I be able to keep it clean enough.

[Tyc0]

Smart ^

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Smart ^

Haha yeah, gave it a lot of thought. At 130k, i'm likely good til at least 180k and with my yearly mileage, that's like 3-4 years almost and dropping the subframe again in 3 years definitely isn't bad. Not to mention I should have access to a much cleaner space.

[Dave92N54]

Another update:

This seems like it's been going on forever but as i'm sure you all can imagine, I wanted to confirm turbos before purchase. It is absolutely my turbos. I can see oil seeping out of the cartridges… Gave the car a compression test today as well. I took one when I bought the car, figured a good idea to do one again before turbo purchase.

Cylinder 1: 180psi
Cylinder 2: 180psi
Cylinder 3: 180psi
Cylinder 4: 179psi
Cylinder 5: 179psi
Cylinder 6: 179psi

Test was done on a completely cold engine.

Very happy with these results! I'll be ordering a set of turbos from Rob on Monday!

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Another update:

This seems like it's been going on forever but as i'm sure you all can imagine, I wanted to confirm turbos before purchase. It is absolutely my turbos. I can see oil seeping out of the cartridges… Gave the car a compression test today as well. I took one when I bought the car, figured a good idea to do one again before turbo purchase.

Cylinder 1: 180psi
Cylinder 2: 180psi
Cylinder 3: 180psi
Cylinder 4: 179psi
Cylinder 5: 179psi
Cylinder 6: 179psi

Test was done on a completely cold engine.

Very happy with these results! I'll be ordering a set of turbos from Rob on Monday!

Excellent compression numbers! I had (hopefully fixed) a persistent cyl 6 misfire lately so did a test not bad 170psi.
Getting ready to go to the drag strip but car has its own mind lol

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

I don't know for sure but according to rob and my tuner they guessed ~475

That is perfect for a daily in my opinion.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

That's not bad! I'm low side OCC so no need for PCV and I have fcp warranty on the vent valve but still, that's great pricing.

Slightly confused on how that works though, I'm guessing you mailed him the check/cash?

I bought OEM Billets. W/ RB you get upgraded internals and the upgraded SS waste-gates, as part of deal. His website is out of date. You won't get better than OEM waste-gates & bearings, from other vendors, at his price point.

Contrary to the concern of RB not working with turbos on other platforms, I'd argue the opposite. RB has more experience worthing with N54 turbos then anyone in the industry because he specializes in N54 turbos.

I paid him with an electronic wire transfer from my bank to his. That got the ball rolling a few days faster.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I bought OEM Billets. W/ RB you get upgraded internals and the upgraded SS waste-gates, as part of deal. His website is out of date. You won't get better than OEM waste-gates & bearings, from other vendors, at his price point.

Contrary to the concern of RB not working with turbos on other platforms, I'd argue the opposite. RB has more experience worthing with N54 turbos then anyone in the industry because he specializes in N54 turbos.

I paid him with an electronic wire transfer from my bank to his. That got the ball rolling a few days faster.

Do you have any logs for RB OEM turbos?

How are they holding boost up top, do they tapper as stock ones or hold 20psi up top?

I was thinking, if its worth going for RB ones or the OEM Billets, when my stock ones fail. Considering I'm only gonna be running 93 oct pump fuel.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Do you have any logs for RB OEM turbos?

How are they holding boost up top, do they tapper as stock ones or hold 20psi up top?

I was thinking, if its worth going for RB ones or the OEM Billets, when my stock ones fail. Considering I'm only gonna be running 93 oct pump fuel.

If you are only gonna run 93 octane, I'd just get OEM billets. When I talked with RB, he sort of sold me on either the OEM Billets or the RB 2's. Since I didn't have any motivation to upgrade my LPFP and mess with E85, I just went with the Billets. If your LPFP is relatively new, you can still run an e30 tune with E85.

I've been having a hard time getting a legit log. I think I'm getting wheel hop. Plus, I'm battling this bank 1 mixture code 🤬 that code has me stumped. New injectors, new O2's, new coils, new plugs. No vac leaks. 🤷*♂️

I will say, the car pulls strong all the way through to red line.

I'm thinking of putting the BMS differential brace on to deal with the wheel hop. I put the Monroe rear, upper shock mounts on, with no luck.

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you are only gonna run 93 octane, I'd just get OEM billets. When I talked with RB, he sort of sold me on either the OEM Billets or the RB 2's. Since I didn't have any motivation to upgrade my LPFP and mess with E85, I just went with the Billets. If your LPFP is relatively new, you can still run an e30 tune with E85.

I've been having a hard time getting a legit log. I think I'm getting wheel hop. Plus, I'm battling this bank 1 mixture code 🤬 that code has me stumped. New injectors, new O2's, new coils, new plugs. No vac leaks. 🤷*♂️

I will say, the car pulls strong all the way through to red line.

I'm thinking of putting the BMS differential brace on to deal with the wheel hop. I put the Monroe rear, upper shock mounts on, with no luck.

What's the point of the OEM size billets ? I am only on 92 and still opted for the RB twos. Obviously I am not using them to their full potential but I think you could definitely get more power with at least RB ones.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

What's the point of the OEM size billets ? I am only on 92 and still opted for the RB twos. Obviously I am not using them to their full potential but I think you could definitely get more power with at least RB ones.

With RB 1's, you'd have to switch out your OEM LPFP and go with a stage 2 walboro 450, in order to meet the fueling needs. That was something I did consider, prior to talking to RB. However, after talking with RB about the 1's, he said I'd definitely have to switch out the LPFP, plus you'd need a custom tune for another $350-400.00. You can't run RB 1's on MHD 2+ according to RB. Couple that with the $300 increase on price over the Billets & you are taking about $1200.00 more just to get RB 1's.

$350.00 for Walboro 450
$300.00 more for RB 1's
$400.00 for a custom tune

So, for me it came down to Billets or RB 2's. I mean if I'm going big , I'm going big. The RB 2's are definitely the best bang for your buck if you are want to use E85 and take advantage of a custom tune.

The RB 2 plus versions are even more appealing, but I think you need 2" inlets & I have 1.75" inlets. So, I didn't want to buy more inlets, if you know what I mean.

[Tyc0]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

With RB 1's, you'd have to switch out your OEM LPFP and go with a stage 2 walboro 450, in order to meet the fueling needs. That was something I did consider, prior to talking to RB. However, after talking with RB about the 1's, he said I'd definitely have to switch out the LPFP, plus you'd need a custom tune for another $350-400.00. You can't run RB 1's on MHD 2+ according to RB. Couple that with the $300 increase on price over the Billets & you are taking about $1200.00 more just to get RB 1's.

$350.00 for Walboro 450
$300.00 more for RB 1's
$400.00 for a custom tune

So, for me it came down to Billets or RB 2's. I mean if I'm going big , I'm going big. The RB 2's are definitely the best bang for your buck if you are want to use E85 and take advantage of a custom tune.

The RB 2 plus versions are even more appealing, but I think you need 2" inlets & I have 1.75" inlets. So, I didn't want to buy more inlets, if you know what I mean.

Put that way it makes a lot of sense, I forgot how quickly things can add up. I didn't even look at the billets when I was shopping so I was unaware how cheap they are, seems like a good replacement for OEM's on their way out. Are these similar to stockers power wise ?

[Mustafa.e92]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you are only gonna run 93 octane, I'd just get OEM billets. When I talked with RB, he sort of sold me on either the OEM Billets or the RB 2's. Since I didn't have any motivation to upgrade my LPFP and mess with E85, I just went with the Billets. If your LPFP is relatively new, you can still run an e30 tune with E85.

I've been having a hard time getting a legit log. I think I'm getting wheel hop. Plus, I'm battling this bank 1 mixture code 🤬 that code has me stumped. New injectors, new O2's, new coils, new plugs. No vac leaks. 🤷*♂️

I will say, the car pulls strong all the way through to red line.

I'm thinking of putting the BMS differential brace on to deal with the wheel hop. I put the Monroe rear, upper shock mounts on, with no luck.

Let us know your wheel hop journey mine does the same