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      04-30-2010, 03:32 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
There's no external amp in your Stereo system, thus the harness that I will be selling. So you plug it at the back of your OEM HU/iDrive and then run the extension wires to the trunk where all the connections will be done.
ETA on this harness? Just got a new 2010 335i convertible (10/09 build) with the base stereo, which is just achin' for an upgrade.
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      04-30-2010, 10:47 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
ETA on this harness? Just got a new 2010 335i convertible (10/09 build) with the base stereo, which is just achin' for an upgrade.
Achin' for a way to turn off the OEM processing too...
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      05-05-2010, 05:39 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
ETA on this harness? Just got a new 2010 335i convertible (10/09 build) with the base stereo, which is just achin' for an upgrade.
They should be delivered by next week, hopefully.
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      05-06-2010, 09:37 AM   #158
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Awesome. Can you give any more details on the layout of the harness, such as which terminations will be where? You say your harness will plug in behind the idrive - will that plug take care of both output to the new amp and the newly amplified speaker connections, such that the new harness is the only thing that needs to get run back to the trunk? What I'm envisioning is a plug that intercepts the current outputs, sends them back to the trunk to get used as inputs to a new amplifer, then speaker wires that would head back up to the idrive location and plug into the existing harness to send the newly amplified sound to the speakers. Am I close? If not, what sort of architecture are you contemplating? Also, for cars without tweeters (my 10/09 build e93 335i has perforated sail panels that sure appear to have tweeters behind them, but I'm not certain), how will someone install tweeters? The Alpine retrofit harness comes with a diplexer that runs from the existing midrange to the new tweeter. Will your harness have a similar piece?
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      05-06-2010, 01:21 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
Awesome. Can you give any more details on the layout of the harness, such as which terminations will be where? You say your harness will plug in behind the idrive - will that plug take care of both output to the new amp and the newly amplified speaker connections, such that the new harness is the only thing that needs to get run back to the trunk? What I'm envisioning is a plug that intercepts the current outputs, sends them back to the trunk to get used as inputs to a new amplifer, then speaker wires that would head back up to the idrive location and plug into the existing harness to send the newly amplified sound to the speakers. Am I close? If not, what sort of architecture are you contemplating? Also, for cars without tweeters (my 10/09 build e93 335i has perforated sail panels that sure appear to have tweeters behind them, but I'm not certain), how will someone install tweeters? The Alpine retrofit harness comes with a diplexer that runs from the existing midrange to the new tweeter. Will your harness have a similar piece?
The harness is a three part kit: the Quadralock main harness, and an input and an output speakers extension cable. The output extension cable has a remote signal built in.

- the Quadlalock harness connects between the radio and the OEM Quadralock connector. The speaker in and outs wires are split with custom connectors terminals. The OEM remote signal is boosted with a built in relay and sent to the output extension cable. An inline 1A fuse is included for the remote signal.
- the output extension cable takes the OEM HU/iDrive speaker level outputs all the way to the trunk so you can make the aftermarket amp input connections (speaker and remote) there.
- the input extension cable takes the aftermarket amp outputs back to the Quadralock harness to connect to the existing OEM speaker wires.

No OEM wires to cut, 100% reversible.

Now, this standard harness configuration is only to add a 4-channel amp to the OEM system. Any other configuration (bi-amp the front and underseat woofers for example) will require a separate wire run to the underseat woofers from a 6-channel amp, as this OEM system connects the front and the woofers in parallel. This separate wire run is not included.
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      05-06-2010, 03:19 PM   #160
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Have you established a price yet?
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      05-06-2010, 04:38 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
Have you established a price yet?
It is $65 shipped, not in stock at this moment. Should have stock by late next week.
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      05-06-2010, 07:33 PM   #162
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A pic would be great once you have some stock.
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      05-06-2010, 11:11 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
Awesome. Also, for cars without tweeters (my 10/09 build e93 335i has perforated sail panels that sure appear to have tweeters behind them, but I'm not certain), how will someone install tweeters? The Alpine retrofit harness comes with a diplexer that runs from the existing midrange to the new tweeter. Will your harness have a similar piece?
My 2010 stock stereo had no tweeters in the sails. Also, the sails had no tweeter grills, so I had to buy the sails that Technic mentioned on page 1 of this thread. Here are pictures of the new sails with the tweeters that I installed.

Name:  Tweeter.jpg
Views: 955
Size:  260.6 KB

Note the foam inserts. I already had them in my existing sails and the new sails came with them as well. There is no separate part number for them that I know of.

Also note that in my system, there was NOT separate wiring for the tweeter to the door so I needed to put the crossover inside the door panel. As there is not a lot of space, you need to have a crossover that is small enough to fit. I went with the Morels (Hybrid Ovation II) . The crossovers for the Hybrid Ovations (I) do not fit in the doors as they are twice the size, the Hybrid Ovation II crossovers are smaller and can fit in the doors. This is true for the Component system kits. For the rears, I used the regular Hybrid Ovations (I) and was able to fit the crossovers inside the rear deck

Here is a picture of how I mounted the crossovers in the door:

Name:  DoorCrossover.jpg
Views: 968
Size:  155.5 KB

Note that if you can find the contacts, there are a couple more free positions in the door plug if you want to wire and amplify the tweeters separately.

Also, I have one of Technics ' harnesses and I have to say that it is top notch work. I am very pleased with it in that the plugs fit perfectly and the wires he provides reach back to the trunk with length to spare. The wires to the trunk include all 4 channels and the amp-on signal as well as all four channels back to the speakers so you don't have to run extra wires directly to the speakers. You can use the existing speaker wiring. I've already wired mine and they work perfectly.

Just by replacing the stock speakers with the Morels made a sound difference of night and day, but at higher volumes, you can tell that the stock headunit amplifier is trying to push more than it can handle. Once I get the new amps installed, I expect a better improvement still.

Last edited by DeFKnoL; 05-19-2010 at 09:06 AM.. Reason: Added note about foam inserts.
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      05-07-2010, 08:28 AM   #164
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What size Morel mids did you use? They kind of look like 5.25". If so, do they fit?
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      05-07-2010, 09:23 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkm3 View Post
What size Morel mids did you use? They kind of look like 5.25". If so, do they fit?
I got the 4" version of this:

http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mob_2way_hybrid2.html

I would not try to fit a 5" speaker in that spot. The hole is not big enough and you would run into issues mounting it unless you cut a larger hole in the door panel and put in your own mounting points.

These 4"s really put out so I'm not sure there would be much advantage for all the work and extra cutting of your BMW.

Just a note on the tweeter sails, one of mine did not come with the foam backing. But in the stock non-tweeter sails that came with the car, there was foam backing in each that was identical so I used one of those.

The crossover is mounted to a piece of sheetmetal that in turn is mounted to the internal plastic supports in the door. Unfortunately, the only space available was towards the end of the door where it will get the most jarring from the door being slammed. But due to the way that I mounted it, there is a dampening effect to help minimize that.
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      05-13-2010, 01:52 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
It is $65 shipped, not in stock at this moment. Should have stock by late next week.
Hey Technic - any harnesses yet?
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      05-13-2010, 02:14 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MendotaMike View Post
Hey Technic - any harnesses yet?
By end of next week... they are in a UPS truck somewhere.
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      05-18-2010, 12:15 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
By end of next week... they are in a UPS truck somewhere.
Technic,

Can you please post something here once they are available?

Thanks,
JC
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      05-18-2010, 12:35 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelc73 View Post
Technic,

Can you please post something here once they are available?

Thanks,
JC
I have stock now... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387685
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      12-19-2010, 10:11 PM   #170
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sorry to bump a really old thread but I can't PM just yet,

Technic.. do you still have these harnesses for sale?

From what I understand They will provide input to the amp from the head unit and from the amp back to the speakers? Where does it originate? At the HU?

Please email me at sayyyed.aly@gmail.com as I had a few other quick questions.. if not I will PM you when I can.. thanks alot
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      12-19-2010, 10:59 PM   #171
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DeFKnol how are your crossovers secured

DeFKnol how are your crossovers secured?
Screwed down to existing lugs ? Glued or Velcro ed.
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      12-20-2010, 06:55 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
DeFKnol how are your crossovers secured?
Screwed down to existing lugs ? Glued or Velcro ed.
I have them screwed down to the plastic fins in the door. I drilled holes in these fins to acommidate the screws.


(Correction: Fins is not a good word here. I screwed it into the fin on top but also into the foam on the bottom in two places)

Last edited by DeFKnoL; 12-20-2010 at 07:00 AM.. Reason: Correction on Fins statement
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      02-21-2011, 04:06 PM   #173
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Has anyone been successful in coding a base stereo idrive unit for a 2010 vehicle to have line level outs instead of speaker level outs?
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      03-15-2011, 10:59 AM   #174
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Found Some Thing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
They should be delivered by next week, hopefully.
bmw has come out with an UPGRADED amp and speaker plug an play unit by alpine it's not in the USA but it can be ordered
it's only costing me $560.00
it turns your stanard into a hifi
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      03-15-2011, 06:37 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010BXMXW View Post
bmw has come out with an UPGRADED amp and speaker plug an play unit by alpine it's not in the USA but it can be ordered
it's only costing me $560.00
it turns your stanard into a hifi
No, it doesn't.
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      03-16-2011, 09:06 AM   #176
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up-grade

i might have put the reply at the bottom lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFKnoL View Post
Edit: This thread title was changed to avoid misleading readers. Also, places were I specified the amp have been altered to not mislead
Now on to the original message...

I've got this new car with the stock stereo system and am looking to upgrade with the after market amp and sub that I used in my old car, but I've run into a little surprise on the wiring.

My car:
2010 335i X-Drive with NAV/iDrive and stock stereo (STDRD)

First, I expected the stock amp to be in the trunk on the drivers side. After removing all the panels, I found this:

Note that the side view shots are embedded in the shot:
Attachment 339758



i have a 2010 335i
i found that you can order a hifi amp. package from BMW
i just ordered the kit @ $560.00

I assume that the component in center (that is generally hidden under the bottom panel) is the Bluetooth module.

When I unbolt and lift up the Bluetooth nodule, I find a component that looks to me like the amp: (Edit: this is not the amp)

Attachment 339759

Here is the label on the component:
Attachment 339761

Here is the label on the bluetooth module (I suspect that this is irrelevant, but who am I?):
Attachment 339760


So the connectors on the component are not what I was expecting if it were the amp. It looks like the black thick wire on the bottom is an LVDS input from the head unit. Note there is a second plug that is not being used next to it. What could that be? Also on the top, there is a green wire (could it be an amp on signal) and a wire covered in a black sleeve (ground?). In the wiring harness, there are only 6 wires:

Purple
Black
White/red
White/green
Brown
Red/yellow

Attachment 339757

These don't match any of the wiring diagrams that I've seen here for amps, so if this were the amp there must have been quite a change to the overall system I do have 6 speaker, would these be the positives with a shared ground?

Is anyone familiar with this? is there a LVDS converter that I could get for this. Also, I need to figure out which are the speaker wires.

Thanks for your time.
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