[AAmedic69]

Hey everyone, a few questions here. I'm going to be installing an E93 M3 (28mm) front sway bar on my E92 335i. I have HR sport springs and koni yellows on already. Front height reduction: 1.3" / Rear height reduction: 1.2"

1- When ordering adjustable end links do I order them for an E93 M3 or an E92 335?

2- How do I determine the adjustable range needed from the end links to know which size to order for my ride height?

3- Can anyone recommended adjustable end links for my setup or similar that they're happy with, or ones they wish they'd gone with?

Thank you all for your time

[Papa Popov]

1- Non-M3. I can say from experience that the stock end links work with the M3 bar. Can't say the same for the opposite.
2-

plenty of other vids out there too
3- Don't have adjustable links, but when I was researching them I saw many report of Whiteline's offering falling apart.

Couple other notes cause I just installed this bar on my car - make sure you get the E93-specific bushings (31352283967 and 31352283968). When you go to install them apply just a smidge (these bushings aren't supposed to be lubed so emphases on a smidge so it dries out quickly) of dish soap to make your life a whole a lot easier. Beating the hell out of the things with a hammer wouldn't even get them on without soap while I could press them on by hand with a drop of Dawn.

[AAmedic69]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

1- Non-M3. I can say from experience that the stock end links work with the M3 bar. Can't say the same for the opposite.
2-

plenty of other vids out there too
3- Don't have adjustable links, but when I was researching them I saw many report of Whiteline's offering falling apart.

Couple other notes cause I just installed this bar on my car - make sure you get the E93-specific bushings (31352283967 and 31352283968). When you go to install them apply just a smidge (these bushings aren't supposed to be lubed so emphases on a smidge so it dries out quickly) of dish soap to make your life a whole a lot easier. Beating the hell out of the things with a hammer wouldn't even get them on without soap while I could press them on by hand with a drop of Dawn.

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

1- Non-M3. I can say from experience that the stock end links work with the M3 bar. Can't say the same for the opposite.
2-

plenty of other vids out there too
3- Don't have adjustable links, but when I was researching them I saw many report of Whiteline's offering falling apart.

Couple other notes cause I just installed this bar on my car - make sure you get the E93-specific bushings (31352283967 and 31352283968). When you go to install them apply just a smidge (these bushings aren't supposed to be lubed so emphases on a smidge so it dries out quickly) of dish soap to make your life a whole a lot easier. Beating the hell out of the things with a hammer wouldn't even get them on without soap while I could press them on by hand with a drop of Dawn.

After doing a little more research, the 335 endlinks are needed if you're putting an M3 sway bar on a 335. I guess the way it mounts to the strut is at a different angle for M3 vs 335.

After reading countless threads on this forum everyone is saying that you'll need longer than stock endlinks if you've lowered your car to eliminate preload. But every bmw shop I've called in my area is saying the opposite, that shorter than stock endlinks are needed. So I'm still at a halt for ordering adjustable endlinks since I don't know which range I'll need (longer or shorter than stock).

If any of you masterminds can chime in on this I'd really appreciate it, not sure why there's so much conflicting information on this. I feel like it's a pretty common mod.

[Simbl]

I would also be interested to know. I have a rattle that sounds like droplink wear but they are brand new. Similar to the comments people make when they use a standard droplink on lowered suspension. I'm on standard non msport suspension with e92 M3 ARB and I'm convinced they need adjustable arms. I'm changing to koni actives so going to see how that goes first.

The m3 and standard droplinks are the same part number from TRW and possibly BMW to. It could be that the M3 runs a different preload to the non M cars which would mean they have design the arb to fit the standard droplink a bit with more preload.


As far as I know you need adjustable drop links if you are lowered with coil overs that applies to any ARB. you need the car on level ground with the suspension loaded like normal. Adjust the length of the droplink off the car so it slides in perfectly to its mounting holes without any tension.

Would be great for some suspension gurus to chime in.

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by AAmedic69

After doing a little more research, the 335 endlinks are needed if you're putting an M3 sway bar on a 335. I guess the way it mounts to the strut is at a different angle for M3 vs 335.

After reading countless threads on this forum everyone is saying that you'll need longer than stock endlinks if you've lowered your car to eliminate preload. But every bmw shop I've called in my area is saying the opposite, that shorter than stock endlinks are needed. So I'm still at a halt for ordering adjustable endlinks since I don't know which range I'll need (longer or shorter than stock).

If any of you masterminds can chime in on this I'd really appreciate it, not sure why there's so much conflicting information on this. I feel like it's a pretty common mod.

You need shorter than stock endlinks.

Per the linked article: So, how do you determine what length adjustable sway bar link is needed? Easy. You measure. While the car is on the ground, you position the sway bar ends to be parallel to the ground. Then you measure from the mounting point on the sway bar to the mounting point of the chassis. This is the length of the adjustable sway bar that you need. It’s that simple!

[AAmedic69]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

You need shorter than stock endlinks.

Per the linked article: So, how do you determine what length adjustable sway bar link is needed? Easy. You measure. While the car is on the ground, you position the sway bar ends to be parallel to the ground. Then you measure from the mounting point on the sway bar to the mounting point of the chassis. This is the length of the adjustable sway bar that you need. It's that simple!

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

You need shorter than stock endlinks.

Per the linked article: So, how do you determine what length adjustable sway bar link is needed? Easy. You measure. While the car is on the ground, you position the sway bar ends to be parallel to the ground. Then you measure from the mounting point on the sway bar to the mounting point of the chassis. This is the length of the adjustable sway bar that you need. It's that simple!

That article was a nice read. Yeah it's always made sense in my head that the end links would need to be shorter than stock, but nearly every Thread I've read on this forum people have all said they used longer end links in order to keep the sway bar parallel to the ground after lowering to eliminate preload.

My stock end links are 11.5". I ordered adjustable end links from bimmerworld that are 11-12.5". I'm going to measure the final adjusted length of them when they're dialed in during install and see if they needed to go shorter or longer, genuinely very curious at this point.

[Simbl]

It my head it makes sense that on a lowered car. The strut will stay at the same height from the ground but the body will be lowered. This increases the distance between body ARB mount and the mount on the strut. They are further apart so the arm needs to be longer.

[Maxmax73]

Stock e9x end links work just fine with even extreme lowering, like 2" or so. And M3 sway bar geometrically (as far as relation between mounting bushings and end points goes) is the same as non-M.

[streetpro]

Agree, I have e93 M3 front sway-bar installed for couple of years with stock 335i end-links, no issues.

[Dovydas.B]

Originally Posted by streetpro

Agree, I have e93 M3 front sway-bar installed for couple of years with stock 335i end-links, no issues.

Is there a noticeable difference going to m3 sway bar?

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by Dovydas.B

Is there a noticeable difference going to m3 sway bar?

Yeah, there's a big difference 100% worth the upgrade. Makes the steering respond more quickly to inputs improving sensitivity. Way less role. However I would say adding more negative camber really completes the up grade. You will also notice the front end just feels a bit stiffer mid corner. With the front camber you offset any under steer you might get by going to a harder sway bar. Made the car fun to drive for me.

Ignore my issues I'm having with noises pretty sure it's my steering rack having issues.

[Dovydas.B]

Accordingly to bmw catalog m3 sway bar code: 31 35 2 283 515; bmw 335i sway bar code: 31 35 6 796 302. Both of them are 26,5mm. So what is the difference between them?

[Jaronbwall]

Dovydas If it's the same diameter bar there should be NO difference in handling. I have upgraded my sways and like others stated the handling is way better.
Nobody has mentioned it yet but the further down the rabbit hole you go (especially with bigger rear sway) the faster you'll know the rear subframe mounts and open diff totally suck.

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by Dovydas.B

Accordingly to bmw catalog m3 sway bar code: 31 35 2 283 515; bmw 335i sway bar code: 31 35 6 796 302. Both of them are 26,5mm. So what is the difference between them?

The m3 bar is 26.5mm all the way through.

The msport and standard sway bars go to a smaller diameter in the centre making them less rigid.

Turner has a great article detailing the differences.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-t...-e92-sway-bars

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

Dovydas If it's the same diameter bar there should be NO difference in handling. I have upgraded my sways and like others stated the handling is way better.
Nobody has mentioned it yet but the further down the rabbit hole you go (especially with bigger rear sway) the faster you'll know the rear subframe mounts and open diff totally suck.

Got point, rear subframe is worth the upgrade too. I don't what setup others have but I think the M3 sway is generally used in conjunction with a few other mods.

The BMW sway bars are hollow compared to solid H&R. So you have the hollow vs solid sway bar for comparison too. I think at the time this lightweight hollow sway bar design was pretty unusual most cars of similar design would use a solid sway bar.

[AAmedic69]

Originally Posted by Dovydas.B

Accordingly to bmw catalog m3 sway bar code: 31 35 2 283 515; bmw 335i sway bar code: 31 35 6 796 302. Both of them are 26,5mm. So what is the difference between them?

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

Dovydas If it's the same diameter bar there should be NO difference in handling. I have upgraded my sways and like others stated the handling is way better.
Nobody has mentioned it yet but the further down the rabbit hole you go (especially with bigger rear sway) the faster you'll know the rear subframe mounts and open diff totally suck.

I went with the E93 M3 front sway bar, which comes in at 28mm. It's the largest factory sway for The E9x M3.

Also, after never seeming to come to a conclusion on end link length, I got adjustable links that go from 11-12.5". Will be installing it all next weekend, going to see what the final adjusted length ends up being at static height.

[whyzee125]

Without a doubt, if you want to maintain the same swaybar position while lowered that it had stock, you need LONGER end links. Stock ones honestly work fine unless you're extremely low. Hotchkiss are good adjustable ones that hold up well, but they do rust if you live in a salty area so I'd coat them with cosmoline or something if that's you.

[AAmedic69]

Originally Posted by Simbl

Got point, rear subframe is worth the upgrade too. I don't what setup others have but I think the M3 sway is generally used in conjunction with a few other mods.

The BMW sway bars are hollow compared to solid H&R. So you have the hollow vs solid sway bar for comparison too. I think at the time this lightweight hollow sway bar design was pretty unusual most cars of similar design would use a solid sway bar.

Originally Posted by whyzee125

Without a doubt, if you want to maintain the same swaybar position while lowered that it had stock, you need LONGER end links. Stock ones honestly work fine unless you're extremely low. Hotchkiss are good adjustable ones that hold up well, but they do rust if you live in a salty area so I'd coat them with cosmoline or something if that's you.

Finally got around to doing this. In my opinion, the E93 M3 bar was completely worth it. It feels so much tighter around corners, steering wheel is twice as responsive, and it just feels flatter and more connected all together. It's a different and more exciting driving experience and I have no regrets.

For reference my suspension setup is:
2013 E92 335i 6MT with 29k on it
-HR sports
-Koni yellows adjusted about a 1/2 turn from the stiffest setting
-E93 M3 front sway with bimmerworld adjustable links, power flex sway bushings

Everything else suspension wise is stock.

My garage is destroyed right now with 2 E30 projects going on so I didn't have the space to do it at home, went to my favorite BMW shop in town and the tech said the factory end links would have worked ok, but we put on the bimmerworld ones on anyway to completely remove any preload. The final adjusted length ended up being slightly shorter than stock ones, about 11.25". The tech said the joints used on these end links don't usually last long, time will tell.

[streetpro]

Originally Posted by Dovydas.B

Accordingly to bmw catalog m3 sway bar code: 31 35 2 283 515; bmw 335i sway bar code: 31 35 6 796 302. Both of them are 26,5mm. So what is the difference between them?

I have missed the "e93" part... it is a cabrio version (e93 M3 on the right - note the different bushing and holder, 335i e92 on the left), hence heavier and more thicker than the regular M3...
Yes, it is truly noticeable right away... get more camber (M3 front wishbones + upper bushing Pin delete mod), add M3 upper McPerson brace and you are good as far as "stock" suspension goes...

[Simbl]

As an update been running the front e92 m3 bar and really liking it I went with the softer m3 bar as I’m in standard springs.

I have taken an idea from some VW sirocco and Subaru community’s and modified the rear arb. I want to try it has I was in two minds as to weather I wanted to do the rear arb. The mod is just adding another fixing hole to the arb to change the leverage to make it stiffer like you would on an adjustable bar. It’s very subtle but it has made the car a litter better balanced. Been running it for 3 months. I think a stiffer rear arb from the m3 would not be necessary. I’m going to try polyurethane ARB bushes in the rear and see how that goes. I think stiffer rear springs would be a better option instead of the arb from the m3.

[tylerhart_21]

Originally Posted by Simbl

As an update been running the front e92 m3 bar and really liking it I went with the softer m3 bar as I’m in standard springs.

I have taken an idea from some VW sirocco and Subaru community’s and modified the rear arb. I want to try it has I was in two minds as to weather I wanted to do the rear arb. The mod is just adding another fixing hole to the arb to change the leverage to make it stiffer like you would on an adjustable bar. It’s very subtle but it has made the car a litter better balanced. Been running it for 3 months. I think a stiffer rear arb from the m3 would not be necessary. I’m going to try polyurethane ARB bushes in the rear and see how that goes. I think stiffer rear springs would be a better option instead of the arb from the m3.

Instead of doing it on the rear would it be better to do it on the front if you don’t have an lsd. As well with it having a different hole on the bar that would mean the suspension is preloaded and would feel different but not act different. I could be wrong on this not familiar with the subject.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Simbl

As an update been running the front e92 m3 bar and really liking it I went with the softer m3 bar as I’m in standard springs.

I have taken an idea from some VW sirocco and Subaru community’s and modified the rear arb. I want to try it has I was in two minds as to weather I wanted to do the rear arb. The mod is just adding another fixing hole to the arb to change the leverage to make it stiffer like you would on an adjustable bar. It’s very subtle but it has made the car a litter better balanced. Been running it for 3 months. I think a stiffer rear arb from the m3 would not be necessary. I’m going to try polyurethane ARB bushes in the rear and see how that goes. I think stiffer rear springs would be a better option instead of the arb from the m3.

Cool idea - would love to see photos