Blaupunkt THA475PnP Wiring Questions

lendlease · 06-05-2019, 06:46 PM

So I just instalelld the Blaupunkt THA475PnP with a plug-n-play harness
which doesn't require me to wire in power from the battery or ground it to
the frame.

But I've also see in some other DIYs for this amp series where they do wire
in the power and ground from the battery and chassis, but with no
explanation on to why.

So my questions are:

1. Is there a difference between the two different wiring styles?

2. If so, is it okay to just leave it on how it is currently?

3. Is it fine to not have an inline fuse at this power level?

4. How do you fit the stereo back in with the new harness (iDrive)?

5. Is routing it through the driver side (U.S.) the only way or would going
through the passenger side be easier (I believe I have the length to do so)?

ctuna · 06-05-2019, 09:27 PM

Impossible to know without a description of
your harness and where the amp is plugged in .
And which system you started out with.

Stock amps do not have much power and manufactures
try to cut corners on supplying power ,

Its more correct to use 4 gauge for power wiring weather
it makes a hear able difference might vary by how much you
slam it.
The issue has to do with basic electrical considerations power
vs wire size.

Better to have a fuse.

Amps should never be wired in Series for Power.

https://www.google.com/search?client...ar+stereo+amps

lendlease · 06-06-2019, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Impossible to know without a description of
your harness and where the amp is plugged in .
And which system you started out with.

Stock amps do not have much power and manufactures
try to cut corners on supplying power ,

Its more correct to use 4 gauge for power wiring weather
it makes a hear able difference might vary by how much you
slam it.
The issue has to do with basic electrical considerations power
vs wire size.

Better to have a fuse.

Amps should never be wired in Series for Power.

https://www.google.com/search?client...ar+stereo+amps

Alright so I don't really know how to format this so I'm just going to try my
best.

I started out with the base system (6 speakers) and just recently bought and
installed a Blaupunkt THA475PnP amp.

The harness basically connects the fiber optics of the head unit to the amp
without the need to splice.

There is an additional two wires (positive and ground) that is part of the
harness and is somehow taking power from the head unit fiber optics cable
back to the amplifier to power it.

I'm guessing this is the way Blaupunkt intended for as it is supposed to be a
plug-n-play amplifier.

But in some DIYs on the forum I've seen for this line of amplifiers, they
power the amp directly from the battery instead of the fiber optics.

I was also thinking that maybe Blaupunkt knows the power isn't too high
which is why they went PnP power from the head unit and no inline fuse.

And for wiring, I'm talking about what path to wire the AMP back into the
trunk. I think the path you're supposed to take is through the driver side
(left) because of length restraints. But my harness extension is very long
and I believe I can route it through the passenger side (right).

ctuna · 06-06-2019, 02:28 AM

In the base system the Head Unit uses analog outputs to the speakers.
the fiberoptics are only used for connecting bluetooth and accessory modules
and have nothing to do with the speakers or added amps.

Fiberoptics have nothing to do with power they are light signals.

Only Logic 7 enabled head Units idrive and pro Rado use fiberoptics to the amp and you have to have the Logic 7 amp already for those signals to be active as the Pro Radio or Idrive has to be programmed to output those signals and they are mostly only compatible with the Logic 7 amp.

Its been a long time since Blaupunkt has even been mentioned around here.

If they are using there own plug and play connector it would be impossible
for anyone to help without the wiring diagram.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...1&d=1411521234

lendlease · 06-06-2019, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

In the base system the Head Unit uses analog outputs to the speakers.
the fiberoptics are only used for connecting bluetooth and accessory modules
and have nothing to do with the speakers or added amps.

Fiberoptics have nothing to do with power they are light signals.

Only Logic 7 enabled head Units idrive and pro Rado use fiberoptics to the amp and you have to have the Logic 7 amp already for those signals to be active as the Pro Radio or Idrive has to be programmed to output those signals and they are mostly only compatible with the Logic 7 amp.

Its been a long time since Blaupunkt has even been mentioned around here.

If they are using there own plug and play connector it would be impossible
for anyone to help without the wiring diagram.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...1&d=1411521234

Ah you're right I'm kind of a dummy. I've been reading a lot on the topic of
audio with e90s recently and I guess I just thought that the fiber optics were
the main connectors for sound on off the head unit.

Anyways, here is a picture of the plug-n-play harness I am talking about.

So basically it's just a middleman between the speakers and the head unit.
Taking the signal from the head unit, amplifying it, and then sending it to the
speakers. Exactly like how a normal car amplifier would work except there is
no splicing required with this harness.

What's different with this amp though is that it has a yellow and black wire
which goes back into the amp and powers it.

It's a 4 channel amp that is currently powering the 4" mid and 6.5" subs for
the front channels and the rear deck speakers for the rear channel.

I plan to upgrade the speakers with tweeters in the future, but as of
currently I'm trying to figure out if this method of powering the amp is okay.

So basically, the quadlock connector is somehow powering the amplifier and
I'm wondering if this is fine or is there some greatly increased benefit of
wiring the power directly from the battery.

ctuna · 06-06-2019, 11:24 AM

kaigoss69 · 06-06-2019, 11:38 AM

Sorry for my French...the shit signal from the head unit is amplified, then run through the same old shit speakers. So the original shitty sound is just a little louder now...small pile of shit turned into a big pile of shit.

This is a classic case of unknowingly having upgraded into a dead end. If you can live with the big pile of shit, leave it. If not, you need to start from scratch. Plenty of info here how to do that. Good luck!

ctuna · 06-06-2019, 12:50 PM

Research first lots of Research then agonizing
then planning then purchase.
But ditto.

lendlease · 06-06-2019, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Sorry for my French...the shit signal from the head unit is amplified, then run through the same old shit speakers. So the original shitty sound is just a little louder now...small pile of shit turned into a big pile of shit.

This is a classic case of unknowingly having upgraded into a dead end. If you can live with the big pile of shit, leave it. If not, you need to start from scratch. Plenty of info here how to do that. Good luck!

damn, that probably took a lot of mental gymnastics to jump to that conclusion.
Have you considered that the HU can be recoded to hifi to give it a flat eq? Or
that some harman kardon speaker sets are going in and will give it enough
bump for a normal person? But I mean shit bro, whatever makes you feel
loved. : ^ )

lendlease · 06-06-2019, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Research first lots of Research then agonizing
then planning then purchase.
But ditto.

I've already done lots of research about the path I'm going to take to upgrade
my audio. This is only the first part as I got a really good deal on the amp.
I already plan on buying a used set of hk speakers as well as running the
4" mids and tweeters in parallel for the first two channels and the two
underseats by themselves on the other two channels. The rears will probably
be left to run off the HU or just off completely as most audio enthusiast see
them as useless or counterintuitive if anything.

Do you see anything wrong in this setup or a lack of research regarding this
information?

lendlease · 06-06-2019, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Yeah that's really all it is. There is the harness that goes in between the
original wiring and the stereo itself. And within that harness there is a
yellow wire which is marked as 12v constant which then leads back to the
amplifier and powers it. It's working great for the time being, but I guess
there is really no reason not to power it off the battery when I'm finishing
up this whole setup.

kaigoss69 · 06-06-2019, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lendlease

damn, that probably took a lot of mental gymnastics to jump to that conclusion.
Have you considered that the HU can be recoded to hifi to give it a flat eq? Or
that some harman kardon speaker sets are going in and will give it enough
bump for a normal person? But I mean shit bro, whatever makes you feel
loved. : ^ )

Haha, I take it my cynicism was not well received...that's ok "bro", just trying to help!

Now, I have been away from the BMW scene for a while but I do remember some basics:

1.) When recoding the HU to HiFi, I believe it may assign different output pins and you PnP harness may not work. Also, but more importantly, the signal will be 5V differential balanced, which your BP amp will probably not be able to handle.

2.) Your amp with the PnP input harness outputs 2 channels to the front and 2 channels to the rear. How exactly are you planning on running the front undersea and door speakers with only two channels, when the HK OEM speakers do not come with passive crossovers?

I suggest doing a little more research before you end up buying more stuff that in the end you won't be able to use.

ctuna · 06-06-2019, 11:14 PM

If you read the base system Gide which has some misspelling but still
it the best basic document for upgrading the base system.
Also the info regrading the basics such as why you need the thick
cables for Power and things like impedance matching of speakers
and amps is basic knowledge that is widely available on the Internet.

when you say parallel i am not sure what you mean but that.
But normally amps can take two channels and create two sets
of the same Inputs whose outputs can be equed via the amp.

The block that you show a picture of is not a Harness that runs to
a place in the back where you can mount the amp.
And what about the run wires that for from the amp to the speakers
do you know how you are going to to that.

I don't think that recoding reassigns pins but it does drop the level to
5 volts. And if you have a car made past 3/07 you will need and Icom cable
to do it. The rear channels will drop to 5 volts to if they are not run
off and amp.

lendlease · 06-08-2019, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Haha, I take it my cynicism was not well received...that's ok "bro", just trying to help!

Now, I have been away from the BMW scene for a while but I do remember some basics:

1.) When recoding the HU to HiFi, I believe it may assign different output pins and you PnP harness may not work. Also, but more importantly, the signal will be 5V differential balanced, which your BP amp will probably not be able to handle.

2.) Your amp with the PnP input harness outputs 2 channels to the front and 2 channels to the rear. How exactly are you planning on running the front undersea and door speakers with only two channels, when the HK OEM speakers do not come with passive crossovers?

I suggest doing a little more research before you end up buying more stuff that in the end you won't be able to use.

Nah bruv. It's just your "cynicism" wasn't really any help and the humor
aspect of it was pretty weak as well.

Now with that aside...

I actually don't know much about re-coding having an effect on the pinning,
but I'm going to take it that you're correct and because of that I'll probably
have to play around with the volt levels of the channels as well as with the
treble and bass settings to get as close to optimum sound as possible.

So the plan is to have tweeters installed that obviously connect to the 4"
mids. Then disconnect and jump the mid connections in order to get the
underseats by themselves. From there I will wire a harness from the
underseats back to the amp. So basically the tweeters and mids will run off
the front two channels and the two subs will run off the rear two channels.

Does this sound correct/plausible or do you see some major errors in this?

lendlease · 06-08-2019, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

If you read the base system Gide which has some misspelling but still
it the best basic document for upgrading the base system.
Also the info regrading the basics such as why you need the thick
cables for Power and things like impedance matching of speakers
and amps is basic knowledge that is widely available on the Internet.

when you say parallel i am not sure what you mean but that.
But normally amps can take two channels and create two sets
of the same Inputs whose outputs can be equed via the amp.

The block that you show a picture of is not a Harness that runs to
a place in the back where you can mount the amp.
And what about the run wires that for from the amp to the speakers
do you know how you are going to to that.

I don't think that recoding reassigns pins but it does drop the level to
5 volts. And if you have a car made past 3/07 you will need and Icom cable
to do it. The rear channels will drop to 5 volts to if they are not run
off and amp.

When I say parallel I mean that the tweeters and mids will be run in parallel.
At least I believe so as they connect to each other and create a total of 2
ohms.

You're right, the harness in the picture does not necessarily run to the back
of the trunk, but there is a 5 meter extension cable that attaches to the
harness shown above which reaches the trunk quite easily.

The point of the harness is that it grabs the signal coming from the head unit
, sends it to the amplifier, and then the amplifier sends it right back out to
the speakers. Soon I will make some more wiring which will connect the
underseats individually to the amp.

Well it's good to know that re-coding does not re-assign pins so I will do
some more research on the volts this amp can receive. Since it was designed
to be a plug-n-play style amp it takes speaker level inputs, so I think it would
be able to accept 5v, but I am not sure at all.

lendlease · 06-12-2019, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Haha, I take it my cynicism was not well received...that's ok "bro", just trying to help!

Now, I have been away from the BMW scene for a while but I do remember some basics:

1.) When recoding the HU to HiFi, I believe it may assign different output pins and you PnP harness may not work. Also, but more importantly, the signal will be 5V differential balanced, which your BP amp will probably not be able to handle.

2.) Your amp with the PnP input harness outputs 2 channels to the front and 2 channels to the rear. How exactly are you planning on running the front undersea and door speakers with only two channels, when the HK OEM speakers do not come with passive crossovers?

I suggest doing a little more research before you end up buying more stuff that in the end you won't be able to use.

I don't know where your other post went, but I believe there are switches
and dials for me to adjust the crossover frequencies. I am not exactly sure
though, but like I can change the voltages as well as the frequencies for
low pass and high pass.

kaigoss69 · 06-16-2019, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lendlease

I don't know where your other post went, but I believe there are switches
and dials for me to adjust the crossover frequencies. I am not exactly sure
though, but like I can change the voltages as well as the frequencies for
low pass and high pass.

Yeah I don't know I was using the phone app and it just disappeared. What I believe I said was that you need high and low pass capability (at around 200Hz) at the amp, and that it needs to work with a differential balanced input. The former will be possible, the latter probably not, since there are only few amps, and usually more expensive ones, that will accept the balanced inputs. Check with Blaupunkt, because if it does not, you will need a different amp!

lendlease · 06-18-2019, 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Yeah I don't know I was using the phone app and it just disappeared. What I believe I said was that you need high and low pass capability (at around 200Hz) at the amp, and that it needs to work with a differential balanced input. The former will be possible, the latter probably not, since there are only few amps, and usually more expensive ones, that will accept the balanced inputs. Check with Blaupunkt, because if it does not, you will need a different amp!

Okay I'm not too sure about the balanced input thing, but from what I've read
on a lot of installs with this amp is that people set both the channels to 8v
due to the high output signal from the stereo. Is this what you mean?

kaigoss69 · 06-18-2019, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lendlease

Okay I'm not too sure about the balanced input thing, but from what I've read
on a lot of installs with this amp is that people set both the channels to 8v
due to the high output signal from the stereo. Is this what you mean?

No, has nothing to do with the voltage.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...alanced-Inputs

lendlease · 06-19-2019, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

No, has nothing to do with the voltage.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...alanced-Inputs

Well. I got everyone wired up and its working nice to my knowledge. Haven't
had the time to actually put everything back together and drive yet aha.
Anyways, I think the last thing audio wise is to figure out the knobs on the
amp. So the amp I have is 4 channels with left right for the front and left right
for the rear. Currently I have it set up so that the input for the front and rear
are both from the front. My current settings are 8v on both front and rear
as well as ~120-150 for the crossovers? And I have low-pass enabled for the
rears which are running the underseats. Does this sound correct? I know this
is a jumble of words right now so please let me know what you want me to
be clearer on.

ctuna · 06-19-2019, 01:59 AM

I would say more like 150 to 200 . There should be some
manufacturer set up procedure for the gain.
The underseats are not true subwoofers especially the 6.5 inch factory
setup.

lendlease · 06-19-2019, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

I would say more like 150 to 200 . There should be some
manufacturer set up procedure for the gain.
The underseats are not true subwoofers especially the 6.5 inch factory
setup.

Okay well what do you think my settings for the amp should be if I have the
Logic 7 set currently? I have the 4" mids, tweeters, and the 8" underseats.
The mids and tweeters are ran together on the first two channels. And the
underseats are ran by themselves on the other two channels.

06-05-2019, 06:46 PM	#1
lendlease Enlisted Member 0 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 2020 ///K West Join Date: May 2017 Location: Yeezy iTrader: (0)	Blaupunkt THA475PnP Wiring Questions So I just instalelld the Blaupunkt THA475PnP with a plug-n-play harness which doesn't require me to wire in power from the battery or ground it to the frame. But I've also see in some other DIYs for this amp series where they do wire in the power and ground from the battery and chassis, but with no explanation on to why. So my questions are: 1. Is there a difference between the two different wiring styles? 2. If so, is it okay to just leave it on how it is currently? 3. Is it fine to not have an inline fuse at this power level? 4. How do you fit the stereo back in with the new harness (iDrive)? 5. Is routing it through the driver side (U.S.) the only way or would going through the passenger side be easier (I believe I have the length to do so)?
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06-05-2019, 09:27 PM	#2
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Impossible to know without a description of your harness and where the amp is plugged in . And which system you started out with. Stock amps do not have much power and manufactures try to cut corners on supplying power , Its more correct to use 4 gauge for power wiring weather it makes a hear able difference might vary by how much you slam it. The issue has to do with basic electrical considerations power vs wire size. Better to have a fuse. Amps should never be wired in Series for Power. https://www.google.com/search?client...ar+stereo+amps Last edited by ctuna; 06-05-2019 at 09:59 PM..
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06-06-2019, 02:28 AM	#4
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	In the base system the Head Unit uses analog outputs to the speakers. the fiberoptics are only used for connecting bluetooth and accessory modules and have nothing to do with the speakers or added amps. Fiberoptics have nothing to do with power they are light signals. Only Logic 7 enabled head Units idrive and pro Rado use fiberoptics to the amp and you have to have the Logic 7 amp already for those signals to be active as the Pro Radio or Idrive has to be programmed to output those signals and they are mostly only compatible with the Logic 7 amp. Its been a long time since Blaupunkt has even been mentioned around here. If they are using there own plug and play connector it would be impossible for anyone to help without the wiring diagram. https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...1&d=1411521234 Last edited by ctuna; 06-06-2019 at 02:48 AM..
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06-06-2019, 11:24 AM	#6
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	If you read the link I gave you one electrical theory and cars it comes down to You could be starving your amp for power by using to small wires. Also from the standpoint of getting the best sound from this system its not a good idea to run the front doors and floors in parallel the way the factory setup does. The blueprint for how to do a base in terms of wiring and eq correction is in the Link E90 Gide . BMW stereo types http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323 http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/ http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/ http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872 bimmerfest stereo http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=ctuna http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1157793 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio Base System Upgrades http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445266 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634957 http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1003810 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822366 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581379 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451941 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=Dotech http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495855 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494299 http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...morel-jbl.html http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+upgrade http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=550771 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1411521234 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1378833 base system wiring pre/post 3/09 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1411521234 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tDpLJPcGkw_ui_ http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post16679904 It looks like there are some pluggable cables that allow different configurations. Running the amp off the same circuit as the Radio seems wrong and stupid to me . This is as 300 to 400 watt amp running of the the same fuse as a maybe 100 watt radio if even. There must be more to the harness than just that plug. Last edited by ctuna; 06-06-2019 at 11:33 AM..
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06-06-2019, 11:38 AM	#7
kaigoss69 Brigadier General 300 Rep 3,969 Posts Drives: '08 335i Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: JAX iTrader: (6)	Sorry for my French...the shit signal from the head unit is amplified, then run through the same old shit speakers. So the original shitty sound is just a little louder now...small pile of shit turned into a big pile of shit. This is a classic case of unknowingly having upgraded into a dead end. If you can live with the big pile of shit, leave it. If not, you need to start from scratch. Plenty of info here how to do that. Good luck! __________________ Mobridge DA2 > JBL MS-8 > ARC XDi 600/4 > JBL Gti 408 Mids & Vifa OT19 Tweeters; PG Ti2 1600.5 > Morel HCW-10 & IDMax 15
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06-06-2019, 12:50 PM	#8
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Research first lots of Research then agonizing then planning then purchase. But ditto.
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06-06-2019, 11:14 PM	#13
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	If you read the base system Gide which has some misspelling but still it the best basic document for upgrading the base system. Also the info regrading the basics such as why you need the thick cables for Power and things like impedance matching of speakers and amps is basic knowledge that is widely available on the Internet. when you say parallel i am not sure what you mean but that. But normally amps can take two channels and create two sets of the same Inputs whose outputs can be equed via the amp. The block that you show a picture of is not a Harness that runs to a place in the back where you can mount the amp. And what about the run wires that for from the amp to the speakers do you know how you are going to to that. I don't think that recoding reassigns pins but it does drop the level to 5 volts. And if you have a car made past 3/07 you will need and Icom cable to do it. The rear channels will drop to 5 volts to if they are not run off and amp. Last edited by ctuna; 06-07-2019 at 12:32 PM..
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06-19-2019, 01:59 AM	#21
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	I would say more like 150 to 200 . There should be some manufacturer set up procedure for the gain. The underseats are not true subwoofers especially the 6.5 inch factory setup.
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