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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Instrument cluster failed a few months ago, or so I thought (BMW E92 328xi)



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      01-18-2019, 09:05 AM   #1
mvgrasso
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Exclamation Instrument cluster failed a few months ago, or so I thought (BMW E92 328xi)

I'm in desperate need of help. A few months ago (in October) the instrument cluster in my car seemingly shit the bed. No speedo, tach, gas gauge, temp gauge, turn signals, or backlights. Flash forward to a few days ago after having done nothing to repair the cluster, the cluster turns back on, fully functional, but needed to reset the date and time on the computer. Didn't seem as though the odometer had updated the miles I had driven while the cluster was out. The cluster stayed on for a couple of days and then today when I turned on the car, nothing. The cluster was dead again. I have gone through all of the normal culprits, but still nothing. OBD port is working fine, no recent battery replacement. Interior climate control lights stay on all the time.
  • Tested and replaced fuse 58
  • unplugged and reseated cluster connector
  • left negative of battery unplugged overnight
Please help me figure out what could have caused this!
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      01-18-2019, 12:07 PM   #2
gamesfrager
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Any fault codes? No one will be able to point you in any direction without checking first for fault codes.
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      01-18-2019, 01:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvgrasso View Post
[2007 328xi]...in October...No speedo, tach, gas gauge, temp gauge [?], turn signals, or backlights. Flash forward to a few days ago after having done nothing to repair the cluster, the cluster turns back on, fully functional, but needed to reset the date and time on the computer [as would occur ANY time there is a power supply interruption]. Didn't seem as though the odometer had updated the miles I had driven while the cluster was out. The cluster stayed on for a couple of days and then today when I turned on the car, nothing. The cluster was dead again. I have gone through all of the normal culprits [please identify those "culprits" ], but still nothing. OBD port is working fine, no recent battery replacement. Interior climate control lights stay on all the time [please identify which "lights" stay on, AND do you mean they remain on even if the climate control is turned off by manual blower control to "0", with ignition on, OR panel remains lit even when ignition off & remote key removed?]
First thing needed is your build month/year, as 2007 models built BEFORE 3/1/2007 have one wiring/fuse scheme and those built AFTER 3/1/2007 have another. The wiring diagrams referenced below are for my 2007 328xi E91 built 3/14/2007. TIS & Bentley wiring diagrams for the Instrument Cluster power supply show TWO different configurations, so be aware of that in your testing. I assume you at least have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) with which you can test voltage at various wires/pins, as well as testing for continuity to ground (equally important to complete a power supply "circuit" ;-).

I assume from your description, that when the Cluster is "failed," there is NO light on it anywhere, or any other activity? In other words, when you insert the remote key in the slot, nothing lights? When you press START just to turn on ignition (no brake application) NOTHING lights? Do you get headlamp flash and turn signal flash at exterior bulbs when flashing high beams and activating signals?

If the exterior lights function properly but NOTHING lights on Cluster, then the cause is likely a loose wire/ connection either (a) SOMEWHERE in the 12V+ power supply to Pin #9 (Red wire) of Connector X11175 at the Instrument Cluster, or (b) in the Ground at Pin #18 (Brown/Black wire) of that same connector. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the Instrument Cluster, followed by a link to the Pin-Out for that module:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-panel/jPWkjxB
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-panel/ZAb5TaY

I would suggest removing the Instrument Cluster (so you can access the Connector X11175 for testing) as described in the following TIS procedure:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...luster/FrvJWQf

Then test the power supply back to the proper fuse (F2 or F58?), visually inspecting the Red wire, and electrically testing at ALL connector pins in the circuit. Likewise, test for continuity to ground/ chassis at Pin #18 (Brown/Black wire). I presume that is a "switched ground", switched by the JBE module (A4010a) to which it connects, and if so, you should have continuity to ground when the remote key is in the slot, but NOT when it is removed.

Here is where it becomes interesting. Here is the F58 diagram, showing power from that 5A fuse going to the JBE (A4010a) and THEN being distributed via two different wires and pins to (a) Instrument Cluster and (b) Pin #16 of OBD socket (I understand you have 12V+ at Pin #16 OBD?):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...8-fuse/oYOlJxG

HOWEVER, here is the F2 diagram, showing a DIRECT connection from F2 to Pin #9 of X11175 (Instrument Cluster) EXCEPT for a connector (X10254) tucked up beneath the dash. If you click on component ID# (X10254) & select "Installation Location" you get the next link/ diagram, and if you click on "Wiring Diagram (SSP) Connector X10254", you get the final link, which shows BOTH the power & ground supplies to the Cluster going through that connector:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/kszCkLd
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/SEzF4Bf
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/jVhyXsn

I have NO IDEA which diagram is correct for your vehicle. All I can tell you is that there is NO fuse in the F58 fuse socket on the JB in my 3/14/2007 build E91. So I would suggest making sure you have the CORRECT build date & fuse chart for YOUR vehicle, and you check to see if you have F2 and/or F58 present in the JB panel.

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      01-18-2019, 02:58 PM   #4
mvgrasso
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gamesfrager, the codes showing up currently are as follows:
  • U112B
  • U1101
  • P1408
  • P1407

Maybe the U1101/U112B code is a symptom? can't figure out for sure what exactly they mean.

gbalthrop, thanks for the in-depth response! I pulled the connector apart and tested continuity from Pin #9 to Pin #18 and my DMM showed 12v. You're correct that no lights or gauges are doing anything at all in the cluster. The lights on the climate control panel stay on even after the key has been removed and ignition is off. My car was also built in March of 2007, unsure of the exact date, but it seems to be the 2006 fuse setup. I was using this diagram from the Bentley manual to identify the fuses.

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Headlamps and turn signals do work properly, however, I did suspiciously have a headlight bulb blow a while after this started.
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      01-18-2019, 03:07 PM   #5
gamesfrager
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Sorry, I did mean to sound like I would know what the cause is.
I was just trying to say if you don't know what fault codes are; it becomes much harder to guess.

I looked them up, and one guy said he got these errors after changing some fuses.
The fuse chart should be behind the fuse cover inside the glovebox.

Hopefully someone with experience would be able to help.

Best of luck.
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      01-18-2019, 04:34 PM   #6
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvgrasso View Post
... the codes showing up currently are as follows:
  • U112B
  • U1101
  • P1408
  • P1407
...
I pulled the connector apart and tested continuity from Pin #9 to Pin #18 and my DMM showed 12v. You're correct that no lights or gauges are doing anything at all in the cluster. The lights on the climate control panel stay on even after the key has been removed and ignition is off. My car was also built in March of 2007, unsure of the exact date, but it seems to be the 2006 fuse setup...
If you are SURE that you have 12V+ Pin #9 of X11175, then testing fuses & connections between fuse & X11175 becomes moot. Was that test done with ignition ON or OFF? As suggested in first post, Ground at Pin #18 is probably "switched", and you should check to make sure there is a change there between Key in slot & NO key (continuity to chassis ground at Pin #18 of X11175).

Also carefully inspect the pins & sockets at Pins #9 & #18 to make sure nothing is loose, bent, broken or pushed out of place, and that proper contact between pin & socket occurs when assembled. ALSO, if there is any change that moving the wiring harness upon removal of Cluster has restored connection of either the Power (Red) wire or the Ground wire, test again while jiggling/ moving the harness, and or connect X11175 back to Cluster and activate ignition.

If you have power & ground, but NO light show on cluster when ignition activated, then that suggests an internal fault in the cluster. I have NO IDEA what provisions a dealer or Indy might have for "bench-testing" a Cluster.

As for codes, what scan tool or software was used to read those, what modules did you connect to when reading each, and what if any Freeze Frame Data was there (mileage vs. current mileage) etc. along with number of occurrences of code being saved?

The two P-codes relate to signals from the fuel tank level sensors (2), and the two U-codes relate to communication errors between modules, lack of communication with instrument cluster in case of U112B. As you suggest, those could ALL be caused by failure of power supply to Cluster.

As stated above, I would repeat the voltage checks at Pin #9, as well as SEPARATE continuity to ground test of Pin #18, both remote in slot, and NOT.

To help you determine which of the THREE (3) different fuse layouts used in E9x vehicles you have in yours, I attach Fuse Chart for 3/1/2007 to 9/1/2007 vehicles (2-pages), from Bentley. I would suggest comparing that carefully with your JB panel. Large fuses in Lower Right are key to distinguishing between -2007/02 panel & later.

EDIT: sorry, forgot this site ruins the text if screen prints attached without proper re-sizing. See following post.

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      02-27-2019, 08:42 AM   #7
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Smile UPDATE

Sorry for the delayed response guys but I have NEWS! I went to the stealership to 100% diagnose that the problem was, in fact, a broken instrument cluster. They confirmed that the issue was within the instrument cluster. Quoted me $1600 to replace the Instrument cluster. Decided to go home and take the whole thing apart. Got down to the circuit board, checked every single solder point, checked every pin connection, and pushed down on every component to ensure nothing had shifted away from the board. Popped the cluster back into the car and it started working no problem! Has been working for the last few weeks with no issues. Looks like there might have just been a loose/shifted connection on the board and just pushing down on everything reconnected it. Total cost: $0 for the repair, $150 for the diagnostic at BMW, 1 hour of fiddling with the cluster myself. Feeling quite lucky!

P.S., The Check Control mini screen in my cluster has never worked since I got the car a few years ago, when I was working on the cluster I realized why: a piece of ELECTRIC TAPE over the screen. Somebody was trying to hide their check control lights from somebody, tsk tsk.
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      09-25-2020, 04:35 AM   #8
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Instrument cluster down, but no 12v feed

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
First thing needed is your build month/year, as 2007 models built BEFORE 3/1/2007 have one wiring/fuse scheme and those built AFTER 3/1/2007 have another. The wiring diagrams referenced below are for my 2007 328xi E91 built 3/14/2007. TIS & Bentley wiring diagrams for the Instrument Cluster power supply show TWO different configurations, so be aware of that in your testing. I assume you at least have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) with which you can test voltage at various wires/pins, as well as testing for continuity to ground (equally important to complete a power supply "circuit" ;-).

I assume from your description, that when the Cluster is "failed," there is NO light on it anywhere, or any other activity? In other words, when you insert the remote key in the slot, nothing lights? When you press START just to turn on ignition (no brake application) NOTHING lights? Do you get headlamp flash and turn signal flash at exterior bulbs when flashing high beams and activating signals?

If the exterior lights function properly but NOTHING lights on Cluster, then the cause is likely a loose wire/ connection either (a) SOMEWHERE in the 12V+ power supply to Pin #9 (Red wire) of Connector X11175 at the Instrument Cluster, or (b) in the Ground at Pin #18 (Brown/Black wire) of that same connector. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the Instrument Cluster, followed by a link to the Pin-Out for that module:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-panel/jPWkjxB
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-panel/ZAb5TaY

I would suggest removing the Instrument Cluster (so you can access the Connector X11175 for testing) as described in the following TIS procedure:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...luster/FrvJWQf

Then test the power supply back to the proper fuse (F2 or F58?), visually inspecting the Red wire, and electrically testing at ALL connector pins in the circuit. Likewise, test for continuity to ground/ chassis at Pin #18 (Brown/Black wire). I presume that is a "switched ground", switched by the JBE module (A4010a) to which it connects, and if so, you should have continuity to ground when the remote key is in the slot, but NOT when it is removed.

Here is where it becomes interesting. Here is the F58 diagram, showing power from that 5A fuse going to the JBE (A4010a) and THEN being distributed via two different wires and pins to (a) Instrument Cluster and (b) Pin #16 of OBD socket (I understand you have 12V+ at Pin #16 OBD?):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...8-fuse/oYOlJxG

HOWEVER, here is the F2 diagram, showing a DIRECT connection from F2 to Pin #9 of X11175 (Instrument Cluster) EXCEPT for a connector (X10254) tucked up beneath the dash. If you click on component ID# (X10254) & select "Installation Location" you get the next link/ diagram, and if you click on "Wiring Diagram (SSP) Connector X10254", you get the final link, which shows BOTH the power & ground supplies to the Cluster going through that connector:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/kszCkLd
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/SEzF4Bf
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/jVhyXsn

I have NO IDEA which diagram is correct for your vehicle. All I can tell you is that there is NO fuse in the F58 fuse socket on the JB in my 3/14/2007 build E91. So I would suggest making sure you have the CORRECT build date & fuse chart for YOUR vehicle, and you check to see if you have F2 and/or F58 present in the JB panel.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum and new to the E90. Firstly, thank you George (Hi) for putting up the link to Newtis.info, its ubber useful. I need further info on the above and what to do when you have no voltage at pin 9 specifically at X11175 plug/connector.

Car details:

E91 Touring, 320d manual, 2006 RHD, UK

Battery (car off) - 12.41v
Battery (car on) - 14.72v

Fuse 58: OBD & Instrument cluster feed

Fuse 58 - 12.41v

X11175 Plug:

Pin 9 - 0v - 0.3v

Continuity:

Pin 18 (key in) - 0.03
Pin 18 (key out) - 0.03

Yesterday I checked the pin 9 and did have voltage. But since the first check i was unable to get another reading above 0.03v. Doesn't appear pin 18 is affected wether ignition is on or off. Do you know what the above values mean, is this looking like a faulty JBE?

Any help guys would be massively appreciated.
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      09-25-2020, 01:15 PM   #9
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E912006 View Post
... I need further info on the above and what to do when you have no voltage at pin 9 specifically at X11175 plug/connector... E91 Touring, 320d manual, 2006 RHD, UK
Fuse 58: OBD & Instrument cluster feed: - 12.41v
X11175 Plug: Pin 9: 0v - 0.3v
Continuity: [to chassis ground?]
Pin 18 (key in) - 0.03
Pin 18 (key out) - 0.03

Yesterday I checked the pin 9 and did have voltage. But since the first check i was unable to get another reading above 0.03v. Doesn't appear pin 18 is affected wether ignition is on or off. Do you know what the above values mean, is this looking like a faulty JBE?...
Welcome to the Forum!

Since you can't tell the players without a program, here is what I believe to be the correct TIS wiring diagram for the Power Supply to A2a (KOMBI Module or Instrument Cluster) on the 2006 320d E91:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...luster/pv1zLRk

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for fuse F58 on same vehicle:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-320d-tou/oYOlJxG

As you state, F58 which powers the Instrument Cluster also powers Pin #16 of the OBD II Socket, X19527 (X19527/16). On LHD vehicles, that Socket is mounted at driver door hinge area. Is it on Driver side on RHD vehicles? On US LHD vehicles, Socket #16 is Top-Inboard socket and that is ALWAYS 12V+ when battery is connected. NOTE "30" above F58 in Schematic, which means "Terminal 30" or UN-switched Battery Power to fuse F58. Here is the Connector View for the OBD II Socket, X19527. There are TINY Pin Numbers outboard of each socket on the plastic housing:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...d-tou/CTJoYvuJ

As I interpret the KOMBI schematic, Socket #9 of Connector X11175 (X11175/9) behind the KOMBI should ALWAYS have 12V+ with battery terminals connected. If & when it does NOT, I would check voltage at Socket #16 of OBD II Socket as well. If NEITHER has voltage (do NOT need Ignition On), then check for Voltage at Pin #7 of Connector X04010, which according to this link, appears to be on the firewall side of the JB Junction Box (A4010), but Bentley shows that to be where the JBE (Junction Box Electronics Module, A4010a) plugs into the JB on the passenger/driver side of the JB. If the JBE has been removed from the JB recently for ANY reason (such as Blower Harness Recall performance), check that FIRST.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-320d-tou/RPEFhfP

IF there is Voltage at X19527/16 but NOT at X11175/9, then check for 12V+ at Pin #3 (Red wire) of Connector X14272 at the JBE. Here are Installation Location & Connector View for X14272 at the JBE:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...272/1VnYoJSPhH
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...14272/CTNZiHPd

It would be helpful to know WHAT symptoms or Fault Codes your vehicle exhibits, and if you have Fault Codes, please indicate Scan Tool or Software used/available for such diagnosis. Please let us know what you find.

George
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      09-26-2020, 12:25 PM   #10
E912006
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Hi & thanks.

Edit: thats disappointing that Newtis.com is no longer working - Handy BMW.
Update: I have now have 12v+ on pin 9 of the X11175 plug. I had found a bent pin on the X14272. I have straightened the pin and now have voltage but still not working instrument cluster. Will update soon...


Yes, it appears to be the same as LHD just opposite sides.

1. Continuity was to chassis - Yes
2. X19527, Pin 16 (yellow/red), OBD port - 12.41v

3. X04010, Pin 7 - Not sure on this

4. X14272 connector (Blue) - Pin number 3 (yellow square) is a white cable and has no feed.

Ongoing/Solved car issues:

1. The passenger window worked via master switch and door switch but the other windows would only go down but not return. Rear switches don’t work and key fob works to close windows.

2. Drivers door, passenger door, drivers side rear door would not lock/unlock using the key fob. I have since changed the actuators on passenger and drivers door and now both work. The drivers side rear door has yet to be replaced. Drivers door key barrel replaced but will still not unlock car, key fob works fine.

3. Drivers wing mirror down and is non responsive to master switch or reverse gear, passenger works well.

4. Instrument cluster down. Changed fuse and worked for 5 mins. Drove around block, fuse went and would not work again, despite replacement. Windscreen wipers stuck on and non responsive, indicators down but working outside. Replaced visibly water damaged fuse box, two nec mirco relays on JBE and after fitment all worked until I removed the JBE connector to fit screw - all went down.

5. Heater/aircon fan blower non working despite controller displaying fine. Replaced bad motor and now working.

6. Battery was changed and re-coded to car after issues started.

From what I can see I am looking at possible failure in JBE, FRM and or bad earth/connection. I replaced the micro fuses on a very visibly damaged JBE and almost everything started working. Since I touched the connector though its all gone to pot.

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by E912006; 10-29-2020 at 06:55 AM..
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      02-23-2021, 01:15 PM   #11
Anthony199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
I assume from your description, that when the Cluster is "failed," there is NO light on it anywhere, or any other activity? In other words, when you insert the remote key in the slot, nothing lights? When you press START just to turn on ignition (no brake application) NOTHING lights? Do you get headlamp flash and turn signal flash at exterior bulbs when flashing high beams and activating signals?
Hey George!

I'm in desperate need of help

I have a 2006 325i, and I'm having the same problem as OP. My instrument cluster is completely out (not a single light or movement on it), and my climate control lights are on at all times (even with car off and key in my pocket - and I dont have Keyless entry). Replaced fuse 58, unplugged the battery a couple times, and still have a problem.

My OBD port is working fine, and I have the same codes as OP, u1101, u112B, p1407 and p1408. The last two could be from a 2 second rough idle on start up, not sure.

Do you think I have a faulty Electronic Junction Box module?
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      02-23-2021, 01:16 PM   #12
Anthony199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvgrasso View Post
Sorry for the delayed response guys but I have NEWS! I went to the stealership to 100% diagnose that the problem was, in fact, a broken instrument cluster. They confirmed that the issue was within the instrument cluster. Quoted me $1600 to replace the Instrument cluster. Decided to go home and take the whole thing apart. Got down to the circuit board, checked every single solder point, checked every pin connection, and pushed down on every component to ensure nothing had shifted away from the board. Popped the cluster back into the car and it started working no problem! Has been working for the last few weeks with no issues. Looks like there might have just been a loose/shifted connection on the board and just pushing down on everything reconnected it. Total cost: $0 for the repair, $150 for the diagnostic at BMW, 1 hour of fiddling with the cluster myself. Feeling quite lucky!
.
Hey!

How did removing and re-installing your instrument cluster fix all of that? My climate control lights on my 06 also stay on at all times, and have no light on the dash whatsoever. It's amazing to me how these two problems were fixed just like that!
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