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Engine suddenly knocking after sitting for 3 months.
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09-18-2019, 08:20 AM | #23 |
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09-18-2019, 08:40 AM | #24 | |
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Can you change all that now with MHD ? Yes. But thats not the point. MY point is BMW mentality in design. The pump is a piece of crap its well known. IT fails on the dot.. Is it capable ? Yes. But it fails too much to give it any credit. As far as valves yes looks like its a normally open proportional solenoid valve... You are right its a simple device and cant fail anything especially if its designed to be normally open.. I am not discussing N55 vs N54 related failures i said nothing about any of that i was surprised to hear anything about this proportional valve.. it was just news to me LEts not turn it into that pls we have heard enough. LEts keep this related to this case where OP has taken this engine apart to some degree.. I would like to see the rods maybe if he has time i agree with fatty. |
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09-18-2019, 08:55 AM | #25 | |
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09-18-2019, 09:18 AM | #26 |
Clean is the new cool, keep it that way.
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My first water pump was fine at 75k when I replaced it for GP, would have made it to 100k easily. My best bud has a 2011 with 120k on the original water pump. Lots of mechanical pumps fail in that range. I think the pump suffers more from damage due to not servicing the coolant more often in some environments and from people letting it get soaked in oil due to not fixing oil leaks right away.
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09-18-2019, 09:47 AM | #27 | |
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Trust me, the longer i have mine the more trust i have on it. Alot of anecdotal info on n55 fails. I personally trust mine and not worried it will fail for no reason with good maintenance. But his comment about the pressure valve was like " thats something i have not heard yet" But a normally open valve can in no way impede flow when it fails. So i totally agree with you. Unless its stuck energized somehow. That would be a dme/electrical fail not a valve fail. My biggest issue with n55 and n54 remains the belt failure design. That i cannot wrap my head around. I have to buy some kids google sketch up design for a plate that costs 10 times more to protect my engine.. That is the only thing that will always bug me owning this platform |
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09-18-2019, 10:53 AM | #28 |
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The belt issue is another that only exists for those who neglect things and don't pay attention.
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09-18-2019, 11:47 AM | #29 |
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this valve was introduced only on n55 and n20 engines. and bmw have to change it's design and part number after 2012 year
and there are much more problems with crankshaft shells on n55 due that valve
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09-18-2019, 12:16 PM | #30 |
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tons of part numbers changed in 2012. Can you provide at least a little context as to how that valve supposedly plays a role?
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09-18-2019, 04:14 PM | #31 | |
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09-18-2019, 07:37 PM | #32 | |
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N55 was made for 2 main reasons. Cheaper to manufacture and more fuel efficient in mind. Valvetronic was put in place for efficiency. Hence more moving parts. This tends to be the theme with N55 especially. |
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09-18-2019, 10:09 PM | #33 | |
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09-19-2019, 05:25 AM | #34 |
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i wrote that above, problem with crankshaft shells due low oil pressure
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09-19-2019, 07:27 AM | #35 | |
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That valve doesn't cause any issue with low oil pressure. Find something else to blame. I've never seen anyone show low oil pressure in an N55 either... Except at the track where the pickup runs dry. Last edited by bbnks2; 09-19-2019 at 07:39 AM.. |
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09-19-2019, 07:34 AM | #36 | |
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Last edited by bbnks2; 09-19-2019 at 08:03 AM.. |
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09-19-2019, 08:03 AM | #37 | |
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Also, for the last several months I have been looking for a cheap car to put my spare 160k mile N54 into. I kept finding several 335i and 535i cars with bad N55 engines. I finally bought this 2011 N55 car because it was a convertible, real clean and it was 1.5 miles from my house. I have yet to find a decent N54 car for my spare motor. Just my personal experience. |
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09-19-2019, 12:13 PM | #38 | |
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Ridiculous people use anecdotal experiences like this to make assertions about an entire engine/car. "Me and this buddy of a buddy of some other buddy both..." stop right there. Sounds like lack of oiling. It doesn't sound like either the VANOS or the intake cam got any oil. Doesn't sound like the rod bearings got any oil either. I don't think anyone is going to be able to answer why starting a car after it having sat for 3 months would cause an oiling failure. The vanos solenoids and piston oil squirters act as check valves to ensure there is oil in all the galleys when you shut the car off. Maybe they bleed down pressure over time from sitting? Last edited by bbnks2; 09-19-2019 at 12:21 PM.. |
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09-19-2019, 02:22 PM | #39 |
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OP as you can see we have a tendency on this forum to derail very quickly.
To get back on topic. Are you able to provide some rod bearing pictures when you replace them ? IT would be interesting to see the wear for all of us that own this motor. |
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09-19-2019, 07:02 PM | #40 |
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Here are some photos of my intake cam, cam caps and the head side which is not that bad luckily. I also took a photo of the 2 rod caps (#2 & #5) that I pulled so far last night. They seems to have been contaminated by that aluminum powder than came off the front of one of the cam phasers. Later tonight I will pull the oil pump and the exhaust cam to look at those bearings too. This engine is significantly harder to work on that the N54. Instead of one cam carrier with cam inside held down by a dozen or so bolts I now have to contend with other powerful torsion springs, eccentric shaft, etc. etc. etc. I pulled camshafts a few times on my N54 and it was a breeze compared to this thing. I honestly don't know how I will get it back together. There is supposed to be several special tools you need to use to hold the cam parts in place to put it back together. On my N54 I just laid the cam on top and slowly tightened the bolts a 1/2 turn at a time making many passes until it was down again. Now I guess I need to get more tools to hold it against valve spring and torsion spring tension coming from different angles. I also need to buy about 40 more bolts that last time since every bolt that is not a lug nut on a BMW is a one time use bolt.
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09-20-2019, 07:23 AM | #41 |
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Thanks,
To me looks more like wear from sudden oil loss as suppose to normal wear from over a long period of time with proper lubrication. The caps dont look that good to me to be honest. Maybe the pictures make it seem worse. As per special tools they are all available from China for 1/10 the price. Those will do the job fine.. All are CNC machined parts. |
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09-20-2019, 08:18 AM | #42 |
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You don't need any special tools. Just a pair of vice grips. Springs are the first thing you take off and the last thing you put on so you're never fighting them. That is literally the only pain in the ass part. Everything else is just drop it in place and torque it down. If you need any help, let me know. I have a head sitting in the garage that I can make you a video of.
The bolts in the head are no different than an N54. The only additional ones you might need to replace are the ones that hold the valvetronic springs down and quite frankly I've re-used them dozens of times without issue while being careful not to snap them. I would personally hit the intake cam with sandpaper and then polish it up. Or, simply replace it. Cam Caps/head I would sand and polish to smooth the surface back out (dremel with a buffing wheel and compound works great here). This all makes a MESS working in the car so keep things clean. Seal everything off from debris. Pipe clean all holes when your done. Lube all journals. Also, make sure the intake cam isn't binding after it's all torqued down. It might take a few trys to get the caps torqued down right. Rod bearings are impregnated with foreign metal. Probably from the intake cam. Let's see what the rest of them look like. Replace them and maybe polish the crank quick. Starting to look more like the issue originated at the vanos adjuste or intake cam itself. Somehow not getting oil. Could it be the Teflon seals bleeding pressure after having sat for so long? When you put the new ones on the cam you'll see just how loosely they fit and then rely on the cap to press them into the cam to create a seal. Like the other poster mentioned about the N52 owners buying N55 intake cams, the N52 engines used the old metal style cam seals and have the same type of cam issues as the N54. It's not valvetronic that causes these issues on the N52 or N55. It's the cam seals. Saying N55 has intake cam issue because it's more complicated and has valvetronic just doesn't make sense. Especially since the "simpler" N54 experiences this failure significantly more. Last edited by bbnks2; 09-20-2019 at 01:30 PM.. |
09-20-2019, 01:24 PM | #43 | |
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09-20-2019, 01:32 PM | #44 | |
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