[alex sol]

I've had some fun with the 335d in my home garage in freezing cold winter of Toronto.

I had pulled the small turbo then loosened large but couldn't get it out...

replaced the oil line #1 and put everything back together.

started up and drove away for three days and then went into limp mode with only one Check Engine code - Glow Plug #1 module

then found i had major leak between turbo and dpf so removed everything and reinserted the metal gasket (turbo to dpf) and buttoned everything up. Now it won't start.

checked for fuel as it cranks but no start

fuel filter removed, crank and check with filter on and off - sending fuel no problem - likely not the low pressure fuel pump

pulled the rear seat passenger side cushion and checked the fuel computer.. not sure what to do with it as it has around 20 pins.

opened the front truck compartment where the ecu is held and the fuel relay (4 prong)

used a 9 volt battery to test the fuel relay and it clicks (30 to 85)

when plugging back into car, i can hear two to three clicks which are other relays making connection? not sure which ones.

I cracked open the fuel pressure sensor and there is nothing coming out. I can only make a quarter turn as there are other lines in the way..

again, cranked the starter and no fuel coming out the sensor so... to recap

tested:

fuel relay
checked low pressure fuel pump
checked fuel filter for blockage

looks like: no pressure at the pressure accumulator which has the fuel pressure sensor at the end and has the six fuel injector supply connections.

Am i missing anything?

My next move would be to replace the crank position sensor...

i see used hpfp for $500, rebuilt for $1,200 and i hear the r90 fuel pump is $750?

[robnitro]

You didn't mention if there were any codes... It's not wise to diagnose a bmw without a proper scanner unless you want to throw parts at it.

Did you try starting with the fuel rail pressure sensor unplugged? It works as fail safe if unplugged, giving max pressure.
Ista-d has tests for the low pressure fuel pump... Just run it with the charger on battery so you don't kill it

[alex sol]

@robnitro - great tip i did and even backed off the bolt that holds it to see if any juice is coming out. also did same with injector #1 and there was pressure at the fitting

i was told to remove intake and squirt in some wd40 and see if i could get rail pressure requested vs actual and the actual came up to 400 bar on the carly. and that is only during cranking with no start so maybe a little high? so i think i can conclude my fuel system is working all the way to the injectors..

when i opened the intake where the throttle/egr valve is located, it was shooting out black smoke so... am concerned i have a valve, cam, head problem vs high pressure fuel pump.

removed the intake manifold and will continue testing this morning - suggested to do compression test and see if cams are turning first.

anyone got a spare m57 motor kicking around??

[robnitro]

I don't understand how you working on the turbos lead to a cam issue.
I think some sensor got loose...

What codes do you have?

Smoke at intake/egr could be just from exhaust being routed through egr into intake.

Take a breath and stick to the basics of codes etc. Run carly diagnostics and put the codes here so we can help you.

[apexit4]

I agree with robnitro. Seems like the issues you are having started happing as soon as you put the car together the first time. Be very diligent in checking that you connected everything properly. Definitely do a diagnostics scan first though, it will probably point you directly to issue. Report back with what you find.

[alex sol]

only code is glow plug cylinder 1, control... does that mean glow plugs need replace or module?

speaking of diagnostics, is everyone switching from Carly to the free one?

picked up a diesel compression tester.. and struggled a bit with the rubber extension - very little room to snug up the hose and when it is time to back out.. also gets stuck. i ended using a extended pliers with what looks like a crab clab on the end.. worked pretty well and was able to get:

300-320 psi across the board on all six cylinders after about 9-11 cranks. on a couple of the cylinders nothing would happen first two cranks and then it would start building up. on others, it would hit 200 psi on the second crank and build up to 320 max. i never got more than this...

next steps is to check timing

and check the injectors are working properly. would you recommend servicing or buying new?

also fuel accumulator has a pressure regulating valve. do these tend to go?

[alex sol]

@apex I really think i may just have forgotten to connect a sensor and keep in mind the car ran low on oil on way home, then spat the nasty black goo all over my garage floor...

i did drive around for three days and on the day when i had my biggest issues, there was a ton of snow on the ground and i am missing some trays underneath so there was some snow blasting up from underneath.

the weirdest part... i had no trouble starting but had limp mode 1/2 shaded engine warning light, dtc warning light and the morning i went to drive off, it started no problem and idled relatively smoothly... absolutely wouldn't budge... finally i turned it off, and drove away in another car, came back 15 min later, started the car and limped it in reverse into my garage where it hasn't moved for a couple weeks...

also swapped in a brand new battery from my e46 m3 and the car would barely crank - slightly smaller battery than the Ds... my current battery is a April 2017 so should be okay... has no problems cranking and taking charge

another thing to note, when i have the intake off and am checking compression on cylinder 3, there is some serious air coming out of intake cylinder #2 after about two or three crank cycles - would this be indicator of timing being out?