[neilvan]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Thanks my guy!

Yeah sucks about the mounts. I got these mount cause the company was located near where I lived at the time. So I thought hey, support a local performance shop. Didn't do enough research on 034Motorsports product reviews but hey live and learn. Probably the last product id get from them.

There was a 034 thread a few years back; I had posted a video of the mounts failing after 3km(yes just 3) I was hoping to save others the trouble but I gather you never saw it

I ended up going with Turner 60a poly mounts and E46 m3 trans but I still with 034 would figure their shit out and get them right

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by neilvan

There was a 034 thread a few years back; I had posted a video of the mounts failing after 3km(yes just 3) I was hoping to save others the trouble but I gather you never saw it

I ended up going with Turner 60a poly mounts and E46 m3 trans but I still with 034 would figure their shit out and get them right

+1

I totally wish I saw your thread! Would of saved me a couple hundred bucks to buy the awesome Tuner 60a poly mounts that I keep hearing good things about. Thats totally on me for not doing more research about 034 and there products. Im new to mods and all this is a totally new learning curve (An expensive learning curve) but with everyone's advice/guidance along with ALOT of effort I can build my E90. Really appreciate the community and support on this platform

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

I know.... I need a new shift knob... lol Any suggestions for a new shift knob also???

Check out this guy https://www.lathewerks.com/. He makes the most beautiful titanium shift knobs. Just a one man operation and made to order.
He made me a gorgeous burnt titanium knob for my STI. Looked amazing and the finish lasted years. Funny enough he also made my titanium wedding ring.

Not sure what he has for BMW applications but worth a look if you want something high-end and custom.

[YnnoJ420]

Hey guys! Hope everyone had a good weekend!

So wrapping up the 2nd round of updates. Friday the BMS BOV adapter came in as well as a shiny new oil filter cap since my original is beat to hell. (wasnt gonna wait til it cracks to on me) With all this I was now able to continue.

I flipped the billet shift rod so that the flat end pointed towards the bottom of the vehical. Rookie mistake, but just and fyi if anyone plans changing their shift rod. Each gear now clicks nicely in place with a very solid feel and sound! Since I had access to the clutch delay valve I decided to remove it with the BMS clutch delay valve delete. I pinched the line and only a little break fluid came out but I think I still need to bleed the clutch. The peddle is a little low but the response to the clutch is very instant.

Moving on the one of the main courses, the injectors. Since I was by the injectors, I decided to throw in some fresh sparks just incase their was oil or gas residue on the plugs. Checked out the index I was on and its still the OG injectors -01 baby. Out with the 01s and in with the 12s! Took notes on the new values for the index 12s. I inspected each injector to see what injector was failing. From first glance all seems fairly in good shape, but pulling out injector from cylinder 6, smelled the strongest of gas. Could or could not be the leaky injectors but im glad I got these 01s updated. I pulled eatch of the injectors with my BMW approved part #69-00420-21 injector puller that cost me an affordible 100$ plus taxes and shipping. (Of course im kidding), I used a long bolt, washer and a nut the same size as the injector. Attached the nut on the injector with enough thread to attach the bolt to the nut also. and gently tap tap tap upwards with the washer and boom, out with the injector. I also programed the injectors with protools. It was a pretty easy and straight forwards to program the injectors with the new values with protools. Going to double check and make sure the values are still correct just in case.

After filling it with fresh new oil and running the bleed procedure, I disconnected the injectors and spark plugs to turn the engine and prime the turbos. While I tried to prime the turbos, something went off with the car. Dashboard started to flicker and so did the headlight. I couldnt even lock or open the car. Checked the battery with a meter and it was reading 7.5.... I guess the whole time my car was sitting the battery died from that stupid BSD com fault. Took the battery to auto zone and luckily was still under warrenty so got it for the free thirty. Dropped the new battery in and boom back to normal. After cranking a little more, I attached all the injectors and plugs back in. Time for its first start. Cranked, cranked, and cranked but nothing. (What a tease.....). Looked under the hood to check for why its not starting. Found out that if you connect the HP fuel rail sensor then maybe and just maybe it will start. I loaded up protools and primed the fuel rail before attempting to start. Cranked and finally started up!

Those 80a poly mounts was loud and violent on cold start up... hahaha I gotta say mweisdorfer and neilvan... You both were 1000% correct.. but ill give the mounts 10k to 15k break in and if it gets better ill roll with the 80a poly. If not then time for the 60a tuner poly mounts!

I took the car out around the block for a test run. Now car is totally changed to the point where its unrecognizable from being OEM. Shout out to the amazing advice from Bimmer_Bro for the BOV adapter! That TiAL BOV is just pure happiness with every shift! So I logged the turbos and it had no issues hold boost at all with no boost leaks! The only issue is im getting some warnings on the dash saying active steering malfunction and DSC malfunction. If anyone has any advice on how to fix the active steering and DSC im all ears.

Other then that, the 335i is back up and running stronger then its ever had before. Looking back at all the long nights of playing a sick game of bloody knuckles with my car is now done for now and now i'm enjoying the fruits of my labor. My advice for anyone whos attempting to change their turbos at home. Take your time, do it right, and dont rush. It can get frustrating but just let out those F-Bombs and keep pressing forward. This pretty much wraps up the 2nd round of updates for my 335i and what a giant upgrade it was to me. For everyones advice and input, you all helped me out a great deal and just wanted to give you guys my gratitude! Now time to save up, get use to the new mods, and get preped for the 3rd round of upgrades!

Ill report back for round 3!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Hey guys! Hope everyone had a good weekend!

So wrapping up the 2nd round of updates. Friday the BMS BOV adapter came in as well as a shiny new oil filter cap since my original is beat to hell. (wasnt gonna wait til it cracks to on me) With all this I was now able to continue.

I flipped the billet shift rod so that the flat end pointed towards the bottom of the vehical. Rookie mistake, but just and fyi if anyone plans changing their shift rod. Each gear now clicks nicely in place with a very solid feel and sound! Since I had access to the clutch delay valve I decided to remove it with the BMS clutch delay valve delete. I pinched the line and only a little break fluid came out but I think I still need to bleed the clutch. The peddle is a little low but the response to the clutch is very instant.

Moving on the one of the main courses, the injectors. Since I was by the injectors, I decided to throw in some fresh sparks just incase their was oil or gas residue on the plugs. Checked out the index I was on and its still the OG injectors -01 baby. Out with the 01s and in with the 12s! Took notes on the new values for the index 12s. I inspected each injector to see what injector was failing. From first glance all seems fairly in good shape, but pulling out injector from cylinder 6, smelled the strongest of gas. Could or could not be the leaky injectors but im glad I got these 01s updated. I pulled eatch of the injectors with my BMW approved part #69-00420-21 injector puller that cost me an affordible 100$ plus taxes and shipping. (Of course im kidding), I used a long bolt, washer and a nut the same size as the injector. Attached the nut on the injector with enough thread to attach the bolt to the nut also. and gently tap tap tap upwards with the washer and boom, out with the injector. I also programed the injectors with protools. It was a pretty easy and straight forwards to program the injectors with the new values with protools. Going to double check and make sure the values are still correct just in case.

After filling it with fresh new oil and running the bleed procedure, I disconnected the injectors and spark plugs to turn the engine and prime the turbos. While I tried to prime the turbos, something went off with the car. Dashboard started to flicker and so did the headlight. I couldnt even lock or open the car. Checked the battery with a meter and it was reading 7.5.... I guess the whole time my car was sitting the battery died from that stupid BSD com fault. Took the battery to auto zone and luckily was still under warrenty so got it for the free thirty. Dropped the new battery in and boom back to normal. After cranking a little more, I attached all the injectors and plugs back in. Time for its first start. Cranked, cranked, and cranked but nothing. (What a tease.....). Looked under the hood to check for why its not starting. Found out that if you connect the HP fuel rail sensor then maybe and just maybe it will start. I loaded up protools and primed the fuel rail before attempting to start. Cranked and finally started up!

Those 80a poly mounts was loud and violent on cold start up... hahaha I gotta say mweisdorfer and neilvan... You both were 1000% correct.. but ill give the mounts 10k to 15k break in and if it gets better ill roll with the 80a poly. If not then time for the 60a tuner poly mounts!

I took the car out around the block for a test run. Now car is totally changed to the point where its unrecognizable from being OEM. Shout out to the amazing advice from Bimmer_Bro for the BOV adapter! That TiAL BOV is just pure happiness with every shift! So I logged the turbos and it had no issues hold boost at all with no boost leaks! The only issue is im getting some warnings on the dash saying active steering malfunction and DSC malfunction. If anyone has any advice on how to fix the active steering and DSC im all ears.

Other then that, the 335i is back up and running stronger then its ever had before. Looking back at all the long nights of playing a sick game of bloody knuckles with my car is now done for now and now i'm enjoying the fruits of my labor. My advice for anyone whos attempting to change their turbos at home. Take your time, do it right, and dont rush. It can get frustrating but just let out those F-Bombs and keep pressing forward. This pretty much wraps up the 2nd round of updates for my 335i and what a giant upgrade it was to me. For everyones advice and input, you all helped me out a great deal and just wanted to give you guys my gratitude! Now time to save up, get use to the new mods, and get preped for the 3rd round of upgrades!

Ill report back for round 3!

What do you have planned for round 3???

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

What do you have planned for round 3???

Round 3 is going to be more maintance such as pulleys, FMS and RMS, and wheel hubs. Mods are breaks, new clutch, susspension, LSD, TRW M3 control arms, tie end rods, trans mounts, poly dif bushings, and thicker sway bar. Thats mainly all the things I can think of for now. If I left anything I possibly missed out that could give me a headace in the future, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Going with your advice for the front and rear main seal. Like you said, its on borrowed time. Going for the RMS when I get the new clutch. Gonna do FMS when I get the new pulleys.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Round 3 is going to be more maintance such as pulleys, FMS and RMS, and wheel hubs. Mods are breaks, new clutch, susspension, LSD, TRW M3 control arms, tie end rods, trans mounts, poly dif bushings, and thicker sway bar. Thats mainly all the things I can think of for now. If I left anything I possibly missed out that could give me a headace in the future, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Going with your advice for the front and rear main seal. Like you said, its on borrowed time. Going for the RMS when I get the new clutch. Gonna do FMS when I get the new pulleys.

What's your plan for the brakes? Upgraded rotors and pads or you doing a more serious brake swap?
I have tried so many combos of pads and rotors over the years. I currently use Zimmerman rotors with hawk 5.0 pads. I love the combo. Very linear for daily but grip hard when you need to. Work great at lower temps too. I have had combos that were just scary in the wet or cold.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Round 3 is going to be more maintance such as pulleys, FMS and RMS, and wheel hubs. Mods are breaks, new clutch, susspension, LSD, TRW M3 control arms, tie end rods, trans mounts, poly dif bushings, and thicker sway bar. Thats mainly all the things I can think of for now. If I left anything I possibly missed out that could give me a headace in the future, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Going with your advice for the front and rear main seal. Like you said, its on borrowed time. Going for the RMS when I get the new clutch. Gonna do FMS when I get the new pulleys.

When you say wheel hubs, are you saying your gonna do the wheel bearings?

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

What's your plan for the brakes? Upgraded rotors and pads or you doing a more serious brake swap?
I have tried so many combos of pads and rotors over the years. I currently use Zimmerman rotors with hawk 5.0 pads. I love the combo. Very linear for daily but grip hard when you need to. Work great at lower temps too. I have had combos that were just scary in the wet or cold.

Havent gave it much thought on what breaks to run just yet. Not too sure if a big break kit is necessary for my 400-450 goal but I could be wrong. Going to start off with some upgraded rotors, pads, steel break lines then go from their. Any suggestions? Also what zimmerman rotors are you running???

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

When you say wheel hubs, are you saying your gonna do the wheel bearings?

Was planning on the wheel hub assembly kit from FCP euro. Both for front and rear. I know the front is just a couple of bolts to put on. The rear is a diffrent story, going to change the bearings along with the hub.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Havent gave it much thought on what breaks to run just yet. Not too sure if a big break kit is necessary for my 400-450 goal but I could be wrong. Going to start off with some upgraded rotors, pads, steel break lines then go from their. Any suggestions? Also what zimmerman rotors are you running???

I think upgraded Rotors, pads, lines with new fluid is great. I would only go bigger if its a track car or you have money to burn.
I bought the zimmerman cross drilled ones. They had excellent reviews and made in Germany. The price was good too. Did all 4 corners and Hawk 5.0 pads.... seemed good for daily spirited driving.
Just stay away from anything stoptech. Its all made in china now and complete garbage.

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

I think upgraded Rotors, pads, lines with new fluid is great. I would only go bigger if its a track car or you have money to burn.
I bought the zimmerman cross drilled ones. They had excellent reviews and made in Germany. The price was good too. Did all 4 corners and Hawk 5.0 pads.... seemed good for daily spirited driving.
Just stay away from anything stoptech. Its all made in china now and complete garbage.

+1

Thanks for the heads up bro! In all honesty I was concidering the stoptech.. you just saved me alot of money my guy

Are these the pads and rotors your running correct??

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nn-34116855000

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...awk-hb551b-748

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

+1

Thanks for the heads up bro! In all honesty I was concidering the stoptech.. you just saved me alot of money my guy

Are these the pads and rotors your running correct??

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nn-34116855000

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...awk-hb551b-748

No problem! I learned the hard way on a previous car.

Yup those are them. Everyone has difference preference for pads but I have found them great for daily and sporty driving. Just make sure you do the proper bed in procedure once installed.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Havent gave it much thought on what breaks to run just yet. Not too sure if a big break kit is necessary for my 400-450 goal but I could be wrong. Going to start off with some upgraded rotors, pads, steel break lines then go from their. Any suggestions? Also what zimmerman rotors are you running???

I'd only do a big break kit if you plan on tracking the car. Otherwise, spirited street won't necessitate this. Plus, they aren't cheap. Even the BMW M calipers used on the F series with the special adapters aren't cheap brand new

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd only do a big break kit if you plan on tracking the car. Otherwise, spirited street won't necessitate this. Plus, they aren't cheap. Even the BMW M calipers used on the F series with the special adapters aren't cheap brand new

+1 I'm interested in the F30 M sport kit for aesthetics only. The stock brakes on these cars are actually pretty damn good. Upgraded rotors pads and lines are all you'll likely need for street driving at OPs power goals

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd only do a big break kit if you plan on tracking the car. Otherwise, spirited street won't necessitate this. Plus, they aren't cheap. Even the BMW M calipers used on the F series with the special adapters aren't cheap brand new

+1

Same. Big break kits are nice aesthetic/performance wise, but I think it would be overkill for my plans. Plus I dont have 4-5K laying around... I'd much rather spend that on an LSD and new clutch instead.

[YnnoJ420]

Any clutch recommendations guys??

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

+1

Same. Big break kits are nice aesthetic/performance wise, but I think it would be overkill for my plans. Plus I dont have 4-5K laying around... I'd much rather spend that on an LSD and new clutch instead.

Maybe get:

Zimmerman Sport Rotors (cross drilled)

ECS Tuning brass caliper pin sleeves w/ their SS pins.

I'd also get their SS rotor screws too.

Last, IMO opinion the Goodridge Phantom Series brake lines are the best for the BMW e90.

https://m.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes...keFitsVehicle=

I have this setup & can testify to the fact that you do get a more responsiveness,smoother, linear feel with the above set up.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Maybe get:

Zimmerman Sport Rotors (cross drilled)

ECS Tuning brass caliper pin sleeves w/ their SS pins.

I'd also get their SS rotor screws too.

Last, IMO opinion the Goodridge Phantom Series brake lines are the best for the BMW e90.

https://m.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes...keFitsVehicle=

I have this setup & can testify to the fact that you do get a more responsiveness,smoother, linear feel with the above set up.

That's a crazy price for brake lines tho. 100
More than any other kit iv seen.
Does it include all 6 lines like the other kits?
The Ecs one looks nice for the price also.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Any clutch recommendations guys??

Congrats on the turbo replacement! I'm in the middle of that myself right now. Just waiting on parts (was sent 1 turbo instead of 2). At your power level I see no reason not to get the 335is clutch upgrade. It's priced right and is a decent upgrade that maintains stock pedal feel. That's what I hear, anyway.

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by stewbets

Congrats on the turbo replacement! I'm in the middle of that myself right now. Just waiting on parts (was sent 1 turbo instead of 2). At your power level I see no reason not to get the 335is clutch upgrade. It's priced right and is a decent upgrade that maintains stock pedal feel. That's what I hear, anyway.

Thank my guy and wish you a quick and painless turbo replacement! Sucks about the mix up on shipping too.. Digging the idea of the 335is clutch so far unless theirs another aftermarket clutch with better bang for the buck. It should still be compatible with the OEM flywheel right?

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Thank my guy and wish you a quick and painless turbo replacement! Sucks about the mix up on shipping too.. Digging the idea of the 335is clutch so far unless theirs another aftermarket clutch with better bang for the buck. It should still be compatible with the OEM flywheel right?

Yeah, it bolts right up to the OEM flywheel. And you can't beat the price at FCPEuro. I don't think there's a better value with aftermarket.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...uk-21207603248