[Qicide]

I know this has been talked about a lot, but maybe someone is bored enough to give me some guidance. I will leave a link to the spreadsheet of the log I took. I am not really sure what to take from the log besides not making the requested boost, so I would appreciate someone who understands the information better.
The story so far: My 2011 335D is tuned and deleted, and after some time it now has no power from the large turbo. We have replaced what I imagine is all of the vacuum lines. Cleaned and inspected intercooler and pipes. Replaced all pressure converters and added a new MAP sensor. We just finished replacing manifold gaskets and did the fuel filter as well. I thought we had exhausted (pun intended) all of the air side, but the log clearly suggest otherwise. The only engine code active is 4697 Injector Quantity Monitoring, which I do not think relates to low boost. I realize this sounds like just a boost leak somewhere, but I thought it was worth a shot to try posting the log to see if it pointed anywhere specific. Thank you everyone!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

[lnxguy]

Did you replace the electronic valve that controls the compressor bypass? If that doesn't flip over, you'll make no boost with the large turbo.

That EV valve is located UNDER the metal bracket that houses both pressure convertors.

[E85 Sport]

das Projekt 5seven - How To Test an Electric Switch Over Valve (YouTube 2:31)

[Qicide]

Yes, I replaced the one in the back behind the pressure converters, and I also replaced the one under the manifold. The only one I didn't replace is the EGR one, but it is just capped off since the EGR is deleted. That one also seems to hold vacuum.

[Fordguy]

Pick up a mityvac, check the integrity of each vacuum circuits from the pressure converters and solenoids. Make sure the changeover valve holds vacuum and sweeps appropriately, make sure the compressor bypass holds vacuum and sweeps appropriately (use an inspection mirror to see he underside and watch it move) and lastly, see if the wastegate holds vacuum.

If that all checks out. Take your downpipe out and apply vacuum to the big turbo wastegate. You want to visibly see the flapper close when you apply vacuum. I've read about some people having this flapper siezed in the housing and no longer moves as it should.

[lnxguy]

No need to pull the downpipe to see if the wastegate is closing, you can stick an inspection mirror in from the top and take a peak at the arm/rod. Even so, with a wide open wastegate you'll still make boost with the low pressure turbo (It won't be ideal, but it will still make pressure eventually)