[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

I used this:

http://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart...not%20provided

And a mini sledge, lots of PB blaster, a large flat screw driver wedged into the ball joint plate and the spindle and a few different sized chisels.

One side came out right away with the separator tool, a socket stacked on top of the metal cone on top of the ball joint and an impact running the nut on the tool. The other side took me over an hour of working at it, pounding the shit out of it with the sledge, impacting, chiseling etc.

The separator got it going but eventually I had to resort to more violent, caveman methods. Lots of four letter words and frustration. When it came loose it was like winning the lottery!

Keep at it. It will break eventually. Would be nice if there was some kind of rubber gasket or if the diamond shaped plate had a raised edge on either side allowing more access with a tool etc.

I didn't get to page 2 so if you already got it out...congratulations! If not...hopefully this helps.

Thank you! Your post made me LOL pretty hard, which was something I needed.

I have that exact tool. How did you position it on the ball joint so the bottom fork wasn't overlapping the steel frame? The only way I can get the fork deep enough on the bottom to have the top finger reach the ball joint on top is by pushing the fork into the boot thus pinching the whole frame up against the spindle. So in essence I would be pushing down on the ball joint from above, but pushing up from below on the frame itself...literally just pinching and crushing the ball joint.

[stashtrey]

I have the Bentley... Pm me, OP and I will hook you up. (digital version) shhhh

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by doru

Post #25. Air tool - an air hammer will pop it out in no time.

If ALL else fails I'll start my air tool collection with this job, ie, tank, lines, air chisel...before I take the care to someone (even though the tool collection will be more costly, at least that'll offer continuous benefit); I just didn't want to spend the hundreds upon hundreds of dollars on that at this point.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

I think part of the problem is that when pounding the shit out of the metal cone it expands in the spindle causing it to jam up even more.

I know I couldn't have pounced in that little motherfucker any more and was pretty nervous at the climax of just wanting it out. Kinda like what delivering a baby must feel like accept no physical pain!

Lolololololololololol

[lichtgelb]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

If ALL else fails I'll start my air tool collection with this job, ie, tank, lines, air chisel...before I take the care to someone (even though the tool collection will be more costly, at least that'll offer continuous benefit); I just didn't want to spend the hundreds upon hundreds of dollars on that at this point.

I admire your determination. This is why I have a whole garage full of tools to "save money". I've been doing this stuff forever and just bought an air impact wrench last week. I don't know how I survived all this time without it. Just FYI, an air chisel takes an impressive amount of air. A pancake compressor won't do much.

[Maestro]

I think it will work-related one of the cups in the ball joint press has the side cut out and it maybe big enough to go around the flange and still press it out. I'm also thinking if you get the axle out of the way you can put a socket on the top of the ball joint and hit it with a hammer. The fact the ball joint has those flanges with bolts tells me they are not press in. It is probable not coming out because it is rusted in.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by lichtgelb

I admire your determination. This is why I have a whole garage full of tools to "save money". I've been doing this stuff forever and just bought an air impact wrench last week. I don't know how I survived all this time without it. Just FYI, an air chisel takes an impressive amount of air. A pancake compressor won't do much.

Ha, thanks. Some people call it determination, others call it stupidity. LOL

I have my own tool collection going, just haven't delved into air tools yet.

IF I go this route (I know I will at some point in time, just not sure whether or not this job is going to be the catalyst), I was looking at a 33 gallon tank. But considering I have no previous experience, I have no idea if that's "enough" or not.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by Maestro

I think it will work-related one of the cups in the ball joint press has the side cut out and it maybe big enough to go around the flange and still press it out. I'm also thinking if you get the axle out of the way you can put a socket on the top of the ball joint and hit it with a hammer. The fact the ball joint has those flanges with bolts tells me they are not press in. It is probable not coming out because it is rusted in.

That's actually a good thought. From what I've read, once out the new ones slide in like butter. So I have no doubt it's corrosion causing all the ruckus. I'm going to see what I can come up with before removing the axle. That's quite a bit more work. And to be BRUTALLY honest, I think I'll have air tools in my garage before I do that...but who knows?

My goal is to just get this done with what I have and without spending anymore money at the moment. If another go at it tonight doesn't yield the results I'm looking for, then I guess I'll go from there.

[lichtgelb]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Ha, thanks. Some people call it determination, others call it stupidity. LOL

I have my own tool collection going, just haven't delved into air tools yet.

IF I go this route (I know I will at some point in time, just not sure whether or not this job is going to be the catalyst), I was looking at a 33 gallon tank. But considering I have no previous experience, I have no idea if that's "enough" or not.

A 33 gallon would be enough to run just about anything in a home garage. Nobody ever complained about having too much air.

[Maestro]

Originally Posted by lichtgelb

A 33 gallon would be enough to run just about anything in a home garage. Nobody ever complained about having too much air.

Actually tank size is have the problem. Flow rate is the other. Ideally you want dual stage compressor which requires 5hp motors and that means you need 240V power. I have 30 gal tank and 3hp motor which runs on 110V and 15A and it just keeps up with my air tools most times I have stop and let the tank catch up. Problem is they no longer make my set up.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by Maestro

Actually tank size is have the problem. Flow rate is the other. Ideally you want dual stage compressor which requires 5hp motors and that means you need 240V power. I have 30 gal tank and 3hp motor which runs on 110V and 15A and it just keeps up with my air tools most times I have stop and let the tank catch up. Problem is they no longer make my set up.

Not to get too off topic, but for the weekend mechanic such as myself and in the house garage, I would have to make due with whatever I could run on 110v. I'm not looking to redo my garages electrical. But needless to say, I appreciate the input.

[TheBigYahi]

Can't believe I considered DIY-ing this, mine are starting to look sketchy.

-Fellow Upstate '06 330xi-er.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by TheBigYahi

Can't believe I considered DIY-ing this, mine are starting to look sketchy.

-Fellow Upstate '06 330xi-er.

Hey buddy! Once I get this damn thing situated, you'll have someone to help you out. Haha

[stashtrey]

I have a 1/2 and 1/4" Milwaukee Fuel cordless impact. These things are beasts. The 1/2" puts out 900+ lbs and nothing will get in its way. Absolutely awesome tool.

The 1/4" is involved in nearly all repairs. Variable speed, two settings, led light, quick release for mini impact sockets, nut drivers, drill bits etc. Best tool I have ever bought. I sent recommend it enough. The batteries last days and charge up in a matter of 20 minutes..

Super bad ass.

[twastheglow]

[terryd5150]

Congratulations!

[twastheglow]

So for those of you in the same boat or for future reference if anyone's ever in the same situation trying to replace the thrust arm ball joints on an Xi and is doing a search for a solution...

Once you have the car jacked up and properly on stands, pull the wheel and turn the steering wheel to the opposite direction of the side of the car you're working on. Doing so will expose the thrust arm and ball joint as much as possible. Break loose the ball joint nut underneath the knuckle. If I remember correctly, the OEM nut is 24mm. Once you remove the nut, use a 2-jaw gear puller to pull the thrust arm down off the ball joint. Once the arm is pulled down and off, carefully maneuver the arm out of the way. You need to take care in doing so as you don't want to damage the bushing on the other end (obviously assuming you're only changing the ball joint and NOT the whole arm or bushing). There isn't a lot of room or play in the arm so movement will be limited. Once you have that out of the way, you'll have access to the two T50 Torx bolts holding the actual ball joint in. Carefully remove them making sure not to strip them. A T45 will seem to fit ok, but it is too small and WILL strip the head; so make sure you're using the correct size. Once you get those our you've completed the easy steps. Next is the step I was hung up on for a few days. If your car was anything like mine, the ball joint crown will be solidly corroded to the spindle. Even though underneath my car is spotless, the mating surfaces between the ball joint and spindle were anything but. In order to push the ball joint down and out, you're going to need a lot of heat and quite a damn bit of arm muscle to hammer it out. The next step is going to need two people. You're going to need to heat the surrounding cast iron that encases the ball joint itself. You'll notice that the axle boot is almost on top of the area you're going to be applying heat. To address the issue of not wanting I melt that boot, I used this...

It's a plumbers hear shield. If you can't find it at your local plumbing stores, I would recommend looking for it online and picking it up. It works wonders. I soaked the "blanket" and wrapped it around the boot this fully protecting it. We also used acetylene with an A-3 turbo torch tip. It helped concentrate the heat in the area we directed it. Now I had one person heating the hell out of the steel spindle basically coming up at it at approximately a 45° angle. Once that was extremely hot, I used this steel chisel/punch that I purchased at Central Tractor...

I set that directly on top of the ball joint and blasted down on it with a 4lb mallet as hard as I could. I had to reposition the punch several times to hit it from slightly different directions. It's a bit tough to swing that mallet inside the wheel well when you have such little space, but you have to make due. Keep heating and punching until it finally pops out. Be aware, once it does, EVERYTHING is extremely hot, so don't touch anything. Just celebrate with some high fives, finger pointing at the ball joint now laying on the ground and swear at it making it your bitch. Once things finally cool down, remove the heat shielding around the axle boot and clean out the hole the ball joint fell out of with sandpaper. Although I never plan on having to do this job on this ball joint again, I still decided to slather the mating surface of the new ball joints crown with anti-seize before reinstalling. Reinstallation is the opposite of what you just read. Make sure you torque everything to spec as you go.

Although it wasn't the easiest job I've ever done, once I devised a method, it wasn't as bad as I was thinking it was. I don't know what BMW or a shop would have charged me, but it was money saved and the satisfaction of another job completed by myself.

Good luck and be safe.
Mike

[lichtgelb]

Sometimes it takes a bigger hammer and some heat. Nice to see you got it out.

[stashtrey]

Great diy. Brought back memories! Specifically trying to bash the shit out if the top of the ball joint crown with my chisel and sledge with about 8" of overhead. I too slathered that little bitch with anti seize. Good stuff, OP. Glad you got it sorted!

[Greyfox]

I'm wondering if a liberal application of never seize before putting new ones in will help any future disassembly.

[devildogae]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

2006 330xi:

I've searched this forum along with Google and YouTube and haven't seemed to find an answer; how the "f" do you pop the ball joint on the front thrust arms out of the spindle? I have a confirmed bad ball joint so I ordered a replacement Lemforder ball joint to replace the bad one. I have removed the arm off the joint and pulled the two bolts holding the joint to the spindle but can't for the life of me pop the ball joint out. It's been FULLY saturated in Kroil and has had the pleasure of getting blasted with a stout screw driver and mallet from above to push it down and out...no luck. I've even tried using the screwdriver and mallet to push the collar on the underside of the joint to the side to try to break it loose. Also to no avail. How do you guys get them out? There isn't any room to use a gear puller from the top due to the spindle design and I can't use a ball joint separator due to the metal collar on the ball joint. I stupidly thought this was going to be a quick job; and it has been, up until trying to remove the last piece. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Mike

Did you have a hard time getting the torx screws out, that's my problem, I've already stripped one...

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by devildogae

Did you have a hard time getting the torx screws out, that's my problem, I've already stripped one...

Those have red Loctite from what I have seen on the replacement ones they are selling.
Red Loctite would require heat to soften it. So heating them up with a torch should help a lot.