[GVIFlyer]

What have you had to replace? Anything you would change prophylactically?

We bought a new 2011 E90 328i xDrive for my wife when the 2012s were on the lot because we liked the 12th generation normally aspirated I-6 N52 motor over the N20 turbo 4-popper. Wifey is a high mileage commuter and it's our thinking that what an engine doesn't have, e.g., turbochargers, wastegates, intercoolers, can't fail.

Now, four years down the road, Mrs. GVFlyer loves her car and wants to keep it forever. This view has been cemented since she test drove a F30. Subsequently, I have to develop a maintenance plan. Can you help?

[ctuna]

Google Mike Miller BMW
Download the Mike Miller old school maintenance schedule.
He has a plan for aircraft maintenance.
Replace it before it fails.
The most likely thing to go is the Water Pump.
There is a thread on here with a few guys who have over
200k some have done very little.
I would also have a detailing plan to keep the looks up especially the leather.

[GVIFlyer]

Copy. Thanks! We have a terrific detailer that does a lot of work for the local car dealerships.

[9iron]

Mine is not an x-drive, but i have a high(er) mileage 328i. It just hit 96k and ive done some needed maintenance in the past year. Until recently, the car has needed zero repairs (aside from typical oil changes/tires/etc..) Here is what ive done so far:

New pads/rotors
Valve cover gasket
Oil pan gasket
Transmission selector shaft seal (MT)
Plugs/coils
Summer and winter tires
Professional interior detail and headlight restoration (made it look brand new...pretty amazing)

I will likely need to replace the oil filter housing gasket, water pump, t-stat, and maybe the clutch at some point in the near future.

I bought the 328i for the same reason as your wife. I had a long highway commute for a few years and i wanted the proven, reliable, NA N52 motor. It has been a great car.

I did hesitate once all these gaskets started to fail though.....ive put about $6500 into a car that is probably only worth $8000. And more things are likely to need fixing.

Strongly consider if you want to keep the car before you start dumping money, because if you dont DIY, it gets expensive pretty quick....and these are known maintenance items. I think if you take care of the car well, and fix the things that will "break" from normal wear/tear, this motor should run to 200k no problem.

Im shooting for 150k at least.

[techietaichi]

I don't have a 328, nor is it an xDrive, but we do have the same engines. Like your wife, I'm a high mileage driver as well, clocking in at least 100 miles a day excluding weekends. I just broke 142K miles and bought the car used just over 3 years ago when it had 54K. Crazy right? Well, I've heard people say that the N52's are "Bullet Proof" and though I wouldn't go that far, it has been a great car. Bottom line is, as long as you address the few issues that's inherent with N52's and don't tarry long enough for the issues to escalate and/or snowball into much larger issues, that car will bring much joy for years to come. One thing I can tell you and this maintenance item sucks equally to changing the WP and Thermo, is stay on top of that oil pan gasket. If you have the ability to DIY that when it starts to fail, you're in a winning situation. If not(like me), find a credible and well established indy to relieve some of the bite it will most assuredly place on your ass when going for your wallet. Luckily I've got Turner Motorsports not too far from me. Much cheaper than the stealership and some of the indy's locally. Good luck and enjoy the ride!

[GVIFlyer]

Thanks guys, great information.

[SoonerE39]

My son has a 2009 328i with 85000 miles (identical in color and appearance to my 2011 335i). Thus far it has only been normal oil changes, replaced 2 coils all spark plugs, and the front brake rotors and pads. between 100k and 110k I plan to replace the entire cooling system (radiator, water pump, thermostat and upper and lower hoses).

Previously I had a 99 528i that I kept until 2010 and it had 137,000 when I sold it. On that one I replaced all 4 rotors and pads around 75000 miles and replaced the cooling system (everything listed above) at 100000 miles. Spark plugs were also replaced at 100000 miles and I replaced the valve cover gasket around that time. That car required replacing a few front end bushings at 110000 and a driveshaft flex disc around that time.

All in all, I am more comfortable with the long term potential costs of my sons 328i than I am with my 335i.

[Efthreeoh]

Hate to jump in here boss, but go to my profile page and look up two threads on my E90. I posted all my maintenance and costs up through 200,000 miles and then a separate update at 265K. I finally just lost a coil last week and replaced the whole rack on Wednesday a week ago. All that should give you an idea of the N52 maintenance. Can't speak to the x-drive nor automatic, but 3s4u2's car is an automatic (I'm pretty sure) and he's north of 240K now on the original water pump!

Bottom line is I've not done a crazy amount of maintenance on my car and pretty much follow the BMW CBS and 100,000 driveline fluid maintenance schedules. The 328i N52 has a plastic valve cover, where the '06 N52's had a magnesium cover. The plastic covers can crack and leak where the metal ones don't.

Water pump, and oil filter housing gasket will go on you at some point; it seems every N52 loses them. BMW fixed the t-stat by 2011. And the coils seem to go at some point too. As far as a BMW goes, the E90 N52 is a highly reliable car. Over 288,000 miles and mine has only left me stranded once on the side of the road. That was at 149,000 in June on a 100 degree summer day and the water pump said "enough". When the coil went tits up last week, I was able to get home. You can keep an E90 well past 200K if you want to.

[techietaichi]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

"You can keep an E90 well past 200K if you want to".

Amen to that. Almost at 182K and still giving me joy!

[Greyfox]

213k+ here on a 2007 E91 328xi. Fairly standard on the replacements. Though I think I may hold the record on the waterpump... it didn't go till 195k but it started working after I shut the car down and cooled off a bit. Was able to drive it to the repair shop.

Around 120k I replaced all the front links and bushings. I did have a coil go out ~105k. Replaced it and the plugs. And the transfer case motor went somewhere around 130k. Replaced the OFHG and VCG. Need to do the pan gasket and going to refresh the rear suspension bushings and front and rear shocks here fairly soon.

One thing I do is basically decide on which end I need to work on next. Then I just start acquiring parts a few at a time till I have everything I need to do the work. Just finished acquiring for the rear end by purchasing the bushing replacement tools that make it so much simpler to do. BavAuto had the tool set down to $135. But since I've got 2 of these cars (and may get another soon) it will be worth it.

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Replace it before it fails.
The most likely thing to go is the Water Pump.
There is a thread on here with a few guys who have over
200k some have done very little.

I have 75k miles on my n52. had a very alarming fuel pump gasket leak earlier on and ignition coil failed (the spark plugs were pretty rough when i changed them recently) but the electronics and everything works perfectly. seems to consume coolant, but never burned a drop of oil drivetrain is in excellent shape. I feel this n52 should get past 150k miles with no issues.

[Needbmwpartzz]

At about 160km here and no x-drive issues....but usual maintenance can be alarming if you pay someone to do.

[PhaseP]

Replace your transfer case fluid.
Transmission fluid change is also a good idea. Check your accessory belt if it is riding off to the pulley, replace belt tensioner and idler pulleys if it does.

[GVIFlyer]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Replace your transfer case fluid.
Transmission fluid change is also a good idea. Check your accessory belt if it is riding off to the pulley, replace belt tensioner and idler pulleys if it does.

Thanks, Amigo.

The transmission has this warning on it.

[PhaseP]

What is the life time of your transmission? (It was a rhetorical question)

[GVIFlyer]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

What is the life time of your transmission? (It was a rhetorical question)

Hopefully more than right now. (Requesting more info).

[djy5005]

Originally Posted by GVFlyer

Hopefully more than right now. (Requesting more info).

I have a 2010 xDrive N52, with a 6MT (not the auto). I bought it with 60k miles, and it has just under 100k right now. I'm also a DIY mechanic with my vehicles, so unless it's a significant issue that I can't diagnose in my garage, it gets done at home.

So far, I've only needed some minor maintenance issues (barring an issue that was under CPO and one other electronics issue):

CPO issue: It wasn't the fuel pump, but it was an internal hose in the fuel tank that broke which cut off fuel pressure (according to the dealer, at least). They did replace the fuel pump with the new tank, though, as a piece of hose I think was stuck in the pump and they knew they blew up (so i think it was partly preventative). Was replaced at 65k under CPO - this isn't a wear item, and one day the car might just be driving and boom, no gas.

Other electronics issue: My RDC module broke just before christmas this past year - it brought down the CANBUS and kept resetting modules in the car while I was driving (such as the computer, iDrive, radio, headlights, turn signals, and just about everything but the engine itself). It was about a $1k fix at the dealer, but also not preventative. This was at a dealer, and it was that much only because the module has to be coded to the car and I'm not well versed enough yet in the coding world.

Other basic fixes only:
- New Shocks/Struts (the rears were completely blown at 95k). Just bought some Bilstein B6's to put on - super excited to do that. I also upgraded the rear shock mounts to the harder rubber non-Xdrive mount (it was a monroe part #, same fit).
- New Rotors and ceramic pads @60k. As of last night, they still have more than 40k miles of life left according to the iDrive system expectations.
- Oil Changes
-New Battery @ 95k
-Non-Run flat tires. I pay for towing, and I live and drive in areas where a tow truck can get me. I'd rather not have to replace all 4 tires tire every time I hit a nail (since run flats are non-serviceable at most shops), especially since I live right outside NYC and there's garbage everywhere. I know I can fix it myself, but still, I'd rather just not have to deal with a safety hazard.
-New air filters


What I still need to do:
- Valve Cover Gasket - I lose about a quart of oil every 8k miles, which just so happens to be my oil change interval.
- Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) - this has had a slow leak since around 70k, and isn't really leaking as much as just accumulating oily grime around it, so I'm going to replace it during my next oil change.
- I expect the water pump to go as well within the next 20k miles, so when I happen to have the time to flush the cooling system, I'll probably end up doing the water pump as well.
- I'm probably going to drain the diff fluid and replace that. Sure, it's a "lifetime" fluid, but that's BS and I'd rather have the peace of mind. I just wish it was as easy to do as it is on my wrangler.
- I'm definitely going to drain the transmission fluid and replace it. Again, it's not really a "lifetime" fluid.
- Transfer case fluid as well, but this might need some programming, so I might just save this for when I have the time to hit the dealer and ask them to reprogram/reset it for me.
- CDV delete (for 6MT) - Every time I think about doing it when i have the time, I always forget about it, then hate myself for not remembering to do it immediately after.

Other than that, I'm just going to inspect the timing belt when I take the valve cover off, but if it's good then I'm leaving it 'til I need to take care of it. I also expect the VANOS and Eccentric Shaft Position sensor to go at some point, but I'll probably replace the latter seal when I do the valve cover as well.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by GVFlyer

Hopefully more than right now. (Requesting more info).

I have a manual so not knowledgeable about auto but there is some documentation (Bentley manual or oem manufacturer) mentioning about 100k mile fluid and filter change.
My transfer case fluid was less than half full and was water consistency when I replaced it at 90k miles. There is rumor that it would give a warning light when to change it but I believe that is just a rumor.
At the least these will make them work smoother with new fluid.

[NiNeTyOne]

That transmission warning is total nonsense. Replace the fluid every 60k, 50k if you are really serious about it lasting. The older the fluid, the more wear. Those magnets can only do so much, and debris accumulates in the fluid. Change it and the filter before 100k, preferably around 80k, and then do fluid changes on a regular interval. I refresh about 4L of fluid every 20k by dumping a measured amount out and putting the same amount back in.

In addition to the great advice everyone else added above, I've added LiquiMoly's Ceratec to my last two motors. Both were heavily tuned turbo motors that went well past 200k, and when they came apart with very high mileage, they looked incredible compared to a lot of other cars. Both blocks were sold to people who used them in other tuned projects.

I know a LOT of race teams using this stuff as well, and they swear by it. One car cracked it's oil pan and dumped the entire crankcase on the track, but the car made it to the pits without engine damage. The skirts and mains were WPC treated, but at that point I was totally sold.

The only other thing on the n52 is Vanos solenoids. I clean mine every 40k and swap them, and replace every 80k. Once they stop working well, the idle really gets rough. You don't really notice it until you clean or replace them. Use the OE ones, all the other options are garbage.

Bushings, all around, go bad. The handling goes south in a hurry once they start to fail. Strongflex has a good solution for that. Thrust arms are the first to go it seems.

[GVIFlyer]

Originally Posted by djy5005

I have a 2010 xDrive N52, with a 6MT (not the auto). I bought it with 60k miles, and it has just under 100k right now. I'm also a DIY mechanic with my vehicles, so unless it's a significant issue that I can't diagnose in my garage, it gets done at home.

So far, I've only needed some minor maintenance issues (barring an issue that was under CPO and one other electronics issue):

CPO issue: It wasn't the fuel pump, but it was an internal hose in the fuel tank that broke which cut off fuel pressure (according to the dealer, at least). They did replace the fuel pump with the new tank, though, as a piece of hose I think was stuck in the pump and they knew they blew up (so i think it was partly preventative). Was replaced at 65k under CPO - this isn't a wear item, and one day the car might just be driving and boom, no gas.

Other electronics issue: My RDC module broke just before christmas this past year - it brought down the CANBUS and kept resetting modules in the car while I was driving (such as the computer, iDrive, radio, headlights, turn signals, and just about everything but the engine itself). It was about a $1k fix at the dealer, but also not preventative. This was at a dealer, and it was that much only because the module has to be coded to the car and I'm not well versed enough yet in the coding world.

Other basic fixes only:
- New Shocks/Struts (the rears were completely blown at 95k). Just bought some Bilstein B6's to put on - super excited to do that. I also upgraded the rear shock mounts to the harder rubber non-Xdrive mount (it was a monroe part #, same fit).
- New Rotors and ceramic pads @60k. As of last night, they still have more than 40k miles of life left according to the iDrive system expectations.
- Oil Changes
-New Battery @ 95k
-Non-Run flat tires. I pay for towing, and I live and drive in areas where a tow truck can get me. I'd rather not have to replace all 4 tires tire every time I hit a nail (since run flats are non-serviceable at most shops), especially since I live right outside NYC and there's garbage everywhere. I know I can fix it myself, but still, I'd rather just not have to deal with a safety hazard.
-New air filters


What I still need to do:
- Valve Cover Gasket - I lose about a quart of oil every 8k miles, which just so happens to be my oil change interval.
- Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) - this has had a slow leak since around 70k, and isn't really leaking as much as just accumulating oily grime around it, so I'm going to replace it during my next oil change.
- I expect the water pump to go as well within the next 20k miles, so when I happen to have the time to flush the cooling system, I'll probably end up doing the water pump as well.
- I'm probably going to drain the diff fluid and replace that. Sure, it's a "lifetime" fluid, but that's BS and I'd rather have the peace of mind. I just wish it was as easy to do as it is on my wrangler.
- I'm definitely going to drain the transmission fluid and replace it. Again, it's not really a "lifetime" fluid.
- Transfer case fluid as well, but this might need some programming, so I might just save this for when I have the time to hit the dealer and ask them to reprogram/reset it for me.
- CDV delete (for 6MT) - Every time I think about doing it when i have the time, I always forget about it, then hate myself for not remembering to do it immediately after.

Other than that, I'm just going to inspect the timing belt when I take the valve cover off, but if it's good then I'm leaving it 'til I need to take care of it. I also expect the VANOS and Eccentric Shaft Position sensor to go at some point, but I'll probably replace the latter seal when I do the valve cover as well.

Great post, thanks. We had a leaking Eccentric Shaft Sensor at 65,000 miles.

[CHE///MIST3]

Not x-drive either, but 130,000 miles on my N52. 2007 E90 328i with sport package. Daily commuter with 95% highway.

Bought it at 66,000 miles and since have replaced:

Spark plugs
Starter motor
Water pump along with entire engine cooling system
Front rotors

Really, one of the best all-around cars I have ever owned. Hoping to take her beyond 250K miles !

GM

[Adieu]

Originally Posted by GVIFlyer

Thanks, Amigo.

The transmission has this warning on it.

1) we dont believe them
2) BMW doesnt make transmissions or transmission fluids
3) for GM trannies use the GM spec fluids GM recommends for when it installs the same tranny in their own cars
for ZF trannies use Mercon SP, thats what they use when they put em on Fords and Lincolns both the license built and the original (Ford actually DOES build trannies licensed from ZF...unlike bmw)