[fazman]

Originally Posted by LM

Isn't it funny that after 5 years they still couldn't find a permanent fix for the hpfp? Seriously when using a new manufacturers hpfp unit what do they do try it on one car for a mile and say ye seems legit lets go for it?

Did you have all these probs on the n54 or n55?

This is what I don't understand so many of you guys that disagree with me have had soo many problems with the car yourselves yet you still love it. Please explain the unconditional love you have for bmw.

I haven't had a chance to read thru all the posts (just skimmed them since i originally asked you for details). Then this thread shifted to marketing and ranting... blah blah blah.

1) Did you get your problem solved with your car?
2) If not... check your regional section on e90post and ask for recommendations for a good Indy for whatever area you are near.
3) Have them use INPA (or whatever tools they have) to pull all the codes from the DME. This should log every error the car had and the KM mileage that it occurred at. That detail will help you diagnose what common issue you need to fix.
4) FSH (Full Service History) means nothing without all the details of what happened and at what mileage. Even then, it doesn't tell you all the "other" stuff that was or wasn't documented like a DIYer's work on the car.
5) Common issues that need to be addressed on these cars (research each one):
a) Spark plugs need to be changed every 25k miles when tuned (45k miles when stock).
b) motor oil + filter changes should be done every 1 year/7500 miles (don't do what the CBS says of every 2 years/15k or 20k miles).
c) If you have a 6AT (Automatic transmission) your mechatronic sleeve will usually fail by 75k miles. you will notice drips of fluid on the ground near the where the passenger seat (center of car) is. While getting the Mechatronic sleeve changed ($12 part but pricy labor).. it is advised for you to additional work at the same time in the same area so it is ZERO on labor and just paying for the additional parts. Things to do are (Flush the Transmission fluid, new pan and filter, and new mechatronic sleeve install). Also consider doing the transfer case fluid too if you are an XI
d) every 50k miles you are going to need to do Carbon blasting of the intakes, have them install a new intake gasket when re-installing. This is a good time to get other mods installed since the labor would be zero. mods to consider are: RB or BMS OCC (Oil Catch Can), RB PCV, RB PCV Cap, RB PCV hose, ER Charge pipe and aftermarket DV/BOV
e) When you get a 1/2 engine light it can be any number of things... but usually that points to either a bad spark plug or a bad spark plug coil. My coils lasted me till about 90k miles. This is where the codes from the computer will help you figure out what the issue is, usually you get cyl misfires and/or 1/2 engine light codes... that requires a little simple troubleshooting to figure out what the issue is. Since you have no REAL idea about the history of the car... toss in fresh new spark plugs because you can't really go wrong with new plugs. Then test drive your car to see if you still have the issue. If solved, then your done... if not... next step is to see if you have cyl misfires and if you move/rotate the coils around if the problem stays the same or moves with the coils. So lets say you have a cyl 2 misfire (move coils #1 --> #4, #2 --> #5, #3 --> #6 position and then same for the other way around). See if the misfire moved from Cyl #2 --> any of the cyl 4/5/6... if this happens then your issue is a bad coil (Change all 6 because if one is bad... the other 5 are close behind for failure). If moving the coil and your issue stays in the same place... usually it's an issue with carbon build up (see carbon blasting). Cyl #5 and Cyl #6 are known to get carbon'ed up the most and earliest.
f) Maybe you have a bad DME coil capacitor, this is a sucky problem because it requires a new DME and programming $$$$$$$$$$$$$. but they have places that can replace the capacitors instead of buying a new DME. capacitors cost like pennies it's the install which requires some skill by an electrician (any TV shop repair guy can usually handle this job since it's a common thing for them to do.
g) you will probably get a OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket) leak at about 75k miles
h) The waterpump + Thermostat + coolant + hoses + expansion tank all need to be changed out whenever your waterpump fails. These are electric waterpumps and not belt driven... their MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) is random. Some last 180k miles some die at only 200 miles (I know mine died at 200 miles after I replaced my original at 100k miles thinking it was due to fail even tho it was working perfectly).
i) The belt/pulley/tensioner/screw at front of motor need to be inspected to see if the belt is not rubbing the subframe and will break apart. You really should get this changed early like say 75k-100k miles range before it breaks. IF IT BREAKS, it will SHRED the belt and the metal threads in the belt will get sucked up into thru the FRONT MAIN SEAL INTO THE MOTOR and grenade your motor $$$$$$

I can go on and on about the known things you will need to do at various mileage milestones. These are all well known things and I'm not saying anything that should be a surprise to you going forward if you have any of these issues.

[fareast1]

Originally Posted by LM

... The reason why I'm so pissed off is I bought the car to tune and without even being tuned if it's gonna give me problems for being on full throttle for a few seconds whats the point. It will only give more on tune. idk I'm gonna take it back to the dealer I got it off and see what he can do. Thanks you're the only guy that gave a proper response all the others are acting like I'm cursing at them :S I'm just mad at myself that I went along and still purchased the car even though I knew the 335i is known to have a lot of problems.

I think your reconsidering your purchase is wise. This is not the car for you. You will need another car or a good pair of shoes if you stay on this path. I think you should trade it on a newer Civic that would better align with your plans.

[Yoxall]

The 335i, is a labour of love like many of the bmw's

If you want a car you can put fuel in and do a service once a year. Change the occasional tyre or window wiper then it's Nissan,honda,Mazda period.

There is not 1 bmw I can think of that does not have a long list of potential expensive common faults.

Vanos, timing chain on some engines, rust on e46,subframe cracking on e46's could go on and on.

But honda do not make a car that drives or feels like a BMW in my opinion. It's part of owning a BMW the full experience the pain and wallet beating when it's not working properly, the joy when it is!

The feeling of quality and being driven from only the rear wheels make Bmw special. When choosing my 3rd and current Bmw I really checked the competition out and could not beat a 335d e91 it is the ultimate all rounder for someone doing 35 to 40k a year.

Believe me if I was doing 10-15 I would have a 335i or e46 m3 no doubt.

[Ao1]

Originally Posted by LM

Isn't it funny that after 5 years they still couldn't find a permanent fix for the hpfp? Seriously when using a new manufacturers hpfp unit what do they do try it on one car for a mile and say ye seems legit lets go for it?

Did you have all these probs on the n54 or n55?

This is what I don't understand so many of you guys that disagree with me have had soo many problems with the car yourselves yet you still love it. Please explain the unconditional love you have for bmw.

You may find this thread to be of some assistance.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=333519

The HPFP's have been updated and different manufacturers' have been used. Bosch and Continental also supply the same product to other manufacturers so its not just BMW that is impacted. I had two instances of HPFP failures on an E92 325i sub 50k miles. BMW took care of both failures and did not charge me a penny. New and used cars sold by BMW are covered by a very good warranty so its not in BMW's interest that parts fail prematurely.

As you are in London there is a good indi not too far from you who would help find what the problem actually is, but I'm reluctant to recommend you to them.

[old grey steve]

As stated enough re these cars written on the net and on forums like this to write a novel, BMW are well aware of what's happening with these cars, different country's adopt as we know different attitudes to the various issues these cars suffer from. I went in eyes wide open with certain key knowledge of their weaknesses and costs.

But, BMW aren't alone re problems we see VW's Audi, Seat's Skoda's and trust me these play up big time too especially S4's RS4's, S6's RS6's R32's etc and they too cost money to sort, BMW's aren't blameless of course but they just seem to continually have the same issues re these cars that keep coming up if that is the correct phrase, I've been through every common issue known to man on these cars and yet some of my customers have the same car and haven't spent a dime apart from routine stuff.

There's no hard fast rule re why some suffer some don't, but I'd say hoonestly as a manufacturer BMW could of with the amount of info of issues on the net and the cars almost 10 year production span could of perhaps got their head round some of the known issues and "engineered a working solution" for some of the well known issus (turbo wastegate for instance) yet even after the multiple product enhancements released by network for cars with this known issue they still have the aame problems (mine being one of them) the afermarket have mangaged to "engineer a working solution by looking headon at the problem finding out the main problems and solving them through re enginnering" therefore you'd have to BMW/Mitsubishi's why they cannot see and with use some of this known knowledge to solve a basic design flaw.

But at the same time I can honestly say that on a given day the 335i is one hell of a car

[Ao1]

^ I suspect part of the problem is that supply chains agreements are based on the suppliers undertaking their own quality control. The manufacturer audits the quality control process but not the quality of the manufactured parts. It all becomes a paperwork trail and paperwork is easy to manipulate when conflicts of interest arise.

There are lot of examples where individuals have found solutions to problems that continue to allude manufacturers despite access to R&D departments and technical experts. Here is good example on the M3 throttle actuators: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=94742

I blame the bean counters. They know the cost of everything and the value of nothing.

[Yoxall]

Swirl flaps is another example. I remember ringing bmw uk about 2 years ago when I bought my first e46 330d to ask them about the failures of swirl flaps and would my car be covered if my engine ate 1.

I was shocked to hear an absolute denial that there was not a design issue and failures due to swirl flaps? I got really angry that she was actually blatantly lying to me on the phone.

They improved them over the years but never to the point of failure proof.

The post above shows what can be done and it's a shame money and business are the number 1 priority! And not proper build quality that the Germans used to and still do pride themselves on.

Look at merc's from the mid 90's to mid 2000's they fell off a cliff in realibilty terms horible rust and terrible build quality. So bad they really had to sort it out and have to a degree these days.

[alex-qts]

Originally Posted by dest

I owned 5 high performance Audi's before my 330d and they cost a LOT more to maintain, let alone anything going wrong, which it did.
Turbo Oil seal on a B5 RS4? Cost me nearly a grand at mates rates.
It makes no difference what make or model you buy, they all go wrong at some point.
When you've owned other makes OP, did you have a strop and post threads like this on other forums?

Just because you got a 9 year old performance car cheap it doesn't mean it's cheap to maintain.

Exactly this. Audi's and most others with equal power can cost much more to maintain, mainly due to the cost of parts. The BMW used parts market in the UK (ebay) is HUGE, especially the E4x & E9x platform at its current cycle. If you use a bit of common sense... EG.. buying parts, using the widely available and (very good by the way) diagnostic tools, the 335i can actually be extremely reasonable to run with a bit of luck! If you don't have a clue though its going to cost you.

Then try running a 24-year old Audi UrS4 , no ISTA-like diagnostics really to speak of - only very very basic, the part you need often hasn't existed for years, only available via an extortionate 'specialist' or dare I say Audi themselves where the most basic part can cost hundreds, but the local Audi forum and love of the cars are the only thing keeping them on the road now, Audi literally couldn't care less .

You learn very quickly that actually the E9x 335i, despite it's niggles, is what I would refer to as being 'reasonable' to run when you take into account the performance on the table. I can't think of another car I would rather have for the money, only car I would consider next is a C63 - and that's because the 335i (a car that really shouldn't even be close to the same performance class) has set the bar so high in terms of performance. Problems are easy to diagnose if you have the software and the parts can be good value if you shop around. With a bit of common sense you can have an amazing car for not all that much money.

If you don't feel anything for the brand, and don't have some kind of love or enthusiasm for the car you won't be making the level of effort that is needed to make the 335i reasonable. Just my take on it.

[LM]

Originally Posted by fazman

I haven't had a chance to read thru all the posts (just skimmed them since i originally asked you for details). Then this thread shifted to marketing and ranting... blah blah blah.

1) Did you get your problem solved with your car?
2) If not... check your regional section on e90post and ask for recommendations for a good Indy for whatever area you are near.
3) Have them use INPA (or whatever tools they have) to pull all the codes from the DME. This should log every error the car had and the KM mileage that it occurred at. That detail will help you diagnose what common issue you need to fix.
4) FSH (Full Service History) means nothing without all the details of what happened and at what mileage. Even then, it doesn't tell you all the "other" stuff that was or wasn't documented like a DIYer's work on the car.
5) Common issues that need to be addressed on these cars (research each one):
a) Spark plugs need to be changed every 25k miles when tuned (45k miles when stock).
b) motor oil + filter changes should be done every 1 year/7500 miles (don't do what the CBS says of every 2 years/15k or 20k miles).
c) If you have a 6AT (Automatic transmission) your mechatronic sleeve will usually fail by 75k miles. you will notice drips of fluid on the ground near the where the passenger seat (center of car) is. While getting the Mechatronic sleeve changed ($12 part but pricy labor).. it is advised for you to additional work at the same time in the same area so it is ZERO on labor and just paying for the additional parts. Things to do are (Flush the Transmission fluid, new pan and filter, and new mechatronic sleeve install). Also consider doing the transfer case fluid too if you are an XI
d) every 50k miles you are going to need to do Carbon blasting of the intakes, have them install a new intake gasket when re-installing. This is a good time to get other mods installed since the labor would be zero. mods to consider are: RB or BMS OCC (Oil Catch Can), RB PCV, RB PCV Cap, RB PCV hose, ER Charge pipe and aftermarket DV/BOV
e) When you get a 1/2 engine light it can be any number of things... but usually that points to either a bad spark plug or a bad spark plug coil. My coils lasted me till about 90k miles. This is where the codes from the computer will help you figure out what the issue is, usually you get cyl misfires and/or 1/2 engine light codes... that requires a little simple troubleshooting to figure out what the issue is. Since you have no REAL idea about the history of the car... toss in fresh new spark plugs because you can't really go wrong with new plugs. Then test drive your car to see if you still have the issue. If solved, then your done... if not... next step is to see if you have cyl misfires and if you move/rotate the coils around if the problem stays the same or moves with the coils. So lets say you have a cyl 2 misfire (move coils #1 --> #4, #2 --> #5, #3 --> #6 position and then same for the other way around). See if the misfire moved from Cyl #2 --> any of the cyl 4/5/6... if this happens then your issue is a bad coil (Change all 6 because if one is bad... the other 5 are close behind for failure). If moving the coil and your issue stays in the same place... usually it's an issue with carbon build up (see carbon blasting). Cyl #5 and Cyl #6 are known to get carbon'ed up the most and earliest.
f) Maybe you have a bad DME coil capacitor, this is a sucky problem because it requires a new DME and programming $$$$$$$$$$$$$. but they have places that can replace the capacitors instead of buying a new DME. capacitors cost like pennies it's the install which requires some skill by an electrician (any TV shop repair guy can usually handle this job since it's a common thing for them to do.
g) you will probably get a OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket) leak at about 75k miles
h) The waterpump + Thermostat + coolant + hoses + expansion tank all need to be changed out whenever your waterpump fails. These are electric waterpumps and not belt driven... their MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) is random. Some last 180k miles some die at only 200 miles (I know mine died at 200 miles after I replaced my original at 100k miles thinking it was due to fail even tho it was working perfectly).
i) The belt/pulley/tensioner/screw at front of motor need to be inspected to see if the belt is not rubbing the subframe and will break apart. You really should get this changed early like say 75k-100k miles range before it breaks. IF IT BREAKS, it will SHRED the belt and the metal threads in the belt will get sucked up into thru the FRONT MAIN SEAL INTO THE MOTOR and grenade your motor $$$$$$

I can go on and on about the known things you will need to do at various mileage milestones. These are all well known things and I'm not saying anything that should be a surprise to you going forward if you have any of these issues.

Thanks for your reply very informative!

OK so I really do not have a clue about what has been done as I don't have receipts for it but all I know is it has full service history which is the regular oil change and has had spark plugs changed.

The dealer fixed the wastegate rattle. Well every now and again I can slightly hear it but the half engine light still comes on when I full throttle.
So it's back at the dealer to see if he can fix that.

Once I get it back so what should I take care of making sure it can fully support a tune with no probs.

Also currently I have 17's which look rather ugly. If I get 18's would it ruin the comfort?

Thanks I'm feeling a little more optimistic about it since if he was able to fix the wastegate rattle I guess he can fix the half engine light issue, The dealer thinks its a sensor problem but lets see.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by LM

Thanks for your reply very informative!

OK so I really do not have a clue about what has been done as I don't have receipts for it but all I know is it has full service history which is the regular oil change and has had spark plugs changed.

The dealer fixed the wastegate rattle. Well every now and again I can slightly hear it but the half engine light still comes on when I full throttle.
So it's back at the dealer to see if he can fix that.

Once I get it back so what should I take care of making sure it can fully support a tune with no probs.

Also currently I have 17's which look rather ugly. If I get 18's would it ruin the comfort?

Thanks I'm feeling a little more optimistic about it since if he was able to fix the wastegate rattle I guess he can fix the half engine light issue, The dealer thinks its a sensor problem but lets see.

17" rims are going to do better for potholes. The number 1 mod you should do is ditch the RFT tires and get a good go flat tire. Michelin Pilot Super Sports if you can get away with summer tires all year round (If not get the Continental DWS if you expect to see temps below 40*F or snow).

[LM]

Originally Posted by fazman

17" rims are going to do better for potholes. The number 1 mod you should do is ditch the RFT tires and get a good go flat tire. Michelin Pilot Super Sports if you can get away with summer tires all year round (If not get the Continental DWS if you expect to see temps below 40*F or snow).

only downside with the 17's is it looks ugly but I wonder how it would look if I were to spray it black. Although I enjoy the comfort I don't mind a little less as for a performance car it feels extremely comfortable I don't feel anything. Maybe 18's and continental dws will do.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by LM

only downside with the 17's is it looks ugly but I wonder how it would look if I were to spray it black. Although I enjoy the comfort I don't mind a little less as for a performance car it feels extremely comfortable I don't feel anything. Maybe 18's and continental dws will do.

I've ran thru 2 sets of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's already and they have been great in the snow (for an all season tire). But the reason i pointed out the Conti DWS is because it costs less than the MPS A/S 3, They also came out with a newer MPS A/S 3+ recently and a new Conti DWS 06 tire which are newer versions of the older design. Not sure if they are that much better or not... check out reviews before committing to a tire. Always get the road hazard warranty for any new tire purchase.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by LM

...Thanks I'm feeling a little more optimistic about it since if he was able to fix the wastegate rattle I guess he can fix the half engine light issue, The dealer thinks its a sensor problem but lets see.

I missed that last part in your message earlier, Before you authorize a repair or tear down of your motor. Get some information about WHY they believe that is the issue and what the repair process is. Also an estimate of the cost of this repair.

I believe what the dealership is talking about is the eccentric sensor? I'm not convinced that is the issue because the car has specific error codes for that sensor (Ask them why they feel it's that sensor before clueing them in on the fact that you understand this part will toss a code when it goes bad).

Also that job requires the valve cover to be removed and you might as well ask the dealership to give you all the old parts to keep as spare parts. reason is a common issue is a cracked valve cover and/or leaky valve cover gasket. It costs more money... but I would just get a new valve cover and have them install that instead of putting the old one back on. The Valve Cover includes a new gasket as part of the order so don't let them cheat you into paying for the gasket separately. Keep the OLD valve cover (not the old gasket) because you can clean out the passageways on the old one and keep it aside in case your new one cracks over time (you will now have a good spare).

Since the valve cover is off, you have easy access to the spark plugs and coils too so make sure they don't charge you extra labor for tossing in a fresh set of spark plugs (highly recommend doing this). but you shouldn't be tearing down to the eccentric sensor unless you trouble shoot to make sure your issue isn't the low cost items first (spark plugs and coils).

Since the Valve cover is off the car, that is also the best time to get a new:
RB PCV: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv
RB PCV Cap: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/acce...e-screw-on-cap
RB PCV Hose: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/acce...-pcv-vent-hose
BMS OCC: http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

labor should be zero since they are right there anyways.


I know it sounds like a lot of money and a lot of parts... but if your intent for buying an N54 car was to mod it, you will need/want these upgrades anyways. If you are already paying the cost to tear down the car to this area... it would be a waste not to change these parts before they fail anyways.

The n54 is a pretty solid motor that you will really enjoy assuming your car is maintained at a level to keep it road worthy. Trust me once you get all these supporting mods on your car and next on your list would be a FMIC upgrade to get better IAT's, even your car at stock levels will perform more stable and smoother than other owners of a similar car could ever imagine.


Just run it by folks on the forums before you decide on a path of action before spending your money. Take things with a grain of salt for the feedback you get... gather as much feedback before taking action. It's always best to use the power of social media and the e90post community to help you.

[LM]

Originally Posted by fazman

I missed that last part in your message earlier, Before you authorize a repair or tear down of your motor. Get some information about WHY they believe that is the issue and what the repair process is. Also an estimate of the cost of this repair.

I believe what the dealership is talking about is the eccentric sensor? I'm not convinced that is the issue because the car has specific error codes for that sensor (Ask them why they feel it's that sensor before clueing them in on the fact that you understand this part will toss a code when it goes bad).

Also that job requires the valve cover to be removed and you might as well ask the dealership to give you all the old parts to keep as spare parts. reason is a common issue is a cracked valve cover and/or leaky valve cover gasket. It costs more money... but I would just get a new valve cover and have them install that instead of putting the old one back on. The Valve Cover includes a new gasket as part of the order so don't let them cheat you into paying for the gasket separately. Keep the OLD valve cover (not the old gasket) because you can clean out the passageways on the old one and keep it aside in case your new one cracks over time (you will now have a good spare).

Since the valve cover is off, you have easy access to the spark plugs and coils too so make sure they don't charge you extra labor for tossing in a fresh set of spark plugs (highly recommend doing this). but you shouldn't be tearing down to the eccentric sensor unless you trouble shoot to make sure your issue isn't the low cost items first (spark plugs and coils).

Since the Valve cover is off the car, that is also the best time to get a new:
RB PCV: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv
RB PCV Cap: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/acce...e-screw-on-cap
RB PCV Hose: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/acce...-pcv-vent-hose
BMS OCC: http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

labor should be zero since they are right there anyways.


I know it sounds like a lot of money and a lot of parts... but if your intent for buying an N54 car was to mod it, you will need/want these upgrades anyways. If you are already paying the cost to tear down the car to this area... it would be a waste not to change these parts before they fail anyways.

The n54 is a pretty solid motor that you will really enjoy assuming your car is maintained at a level to keep it road worthy. Trust me once you get all these supporting mods on your car and next on your list would be a FMIC upgrade to get better IAT's, even your car at stock levels will perform more stable and smoother than other owners of a similar car could ever imagine.


Just run it by folks on the forums before you decide on a path of action before spending your money. Take things with a grain of salt for the feedback you get... gather as much feedback before taking action. It's always best to use the power of social media and the e90post community to help you.

I wasn't really available to get into detail since the mechanic is never there when I get there to pick it up or drop it off.

I also am not paying for any of the work done it is free since I have warranty and the dealer I got the car from is doing all the required work.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by LM

I wasn't really available to get into detail since the mechanic is never there when I get there to pick it up or drop it off.

I also am not paying for any of the work done it is free since I have warranty and the dealer I got the car from is doing all the required work.

I see... in that case... I would just make sure they install a new Valve Cover Gasket rather than re-use the gasket. It's like $40: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES18623/?g...FVdahgodbD4GMQ

Honestly, if I were you.... I would say you want to see what it looks like with the valve cover off the car. Bring in a link to the new valve cover part to order and pay them to purchase the new valve cover and new valve cover gasket (tell them to give you both the OLD GASKET (even if it comes off in pieces...) and OLD COVER (That way you know your parts got installed).

Valve cover kit with new gasket and screws: https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-33..._3.0L/ES18622/

Trust me... it's a lot of labor and worth taking a moment to ask if they can do it for you. This will save you money down the road. You already bought the car and are pretty much committed to it.

[Evil Diesel]

Originally Posted by alex-qts

Exactly this. Audi's and most others with equal power can cost much more to maintain, mainly due to the cost of parts. The BMW used parts market in the UK (ebay) is HUGE, especially the E4x & E9x platform at its current cycle. If you use a bit of common sense... EG.. buying parts, using the widely available and (very good by the way) diagnostic tools, the 335i can actually be extremely reasonable to run with a bit of luck! If you don't have a clue though its going to cost you.

Then try running a 24-year old Audi UrS4 , no ISTA-like diagnostics really to speak of - only very very basic, the part you need often hasn't existed for years, only available via an extortionate 'specialist' or dare I say Audi themselves where the most basic part can cost hundreds, but the local Audi forum and love of the cars are the only thing keeping them on the road now, Audi literally couldn't care less .

You learn very quickly that actually the E9x 335i, despite it's niggles, is what I would refer to as being 'reasonable' to run when you take into account the performance on the table. I can't think of another car I would rather have for the money, only car I would consider next is a C63 - and that's because the 335i (a car that really shouldn't even be close to the same performance class) has set the bar so high in terms of performance. Problems are easy to diagnose if you have the software and the parts can be good value if you shop around. With a bit of common sense you can have an amazing car for not all that much money.

If you don't feel anything for the brand, and don't have some kind of love or enthusiasm for the car you won't be making the level of effort that is needed to make the 335i reasonable. Just my take on it.

The reason that the 'Ebay' used parts market is so cheap is that your car is being stolen to facilitate this. The fact that nothing was (or is being done) by BMW to resolve the security flaws in these cars is unacceptable imo (as a customer who has had a £47,000 car stolen). I now drive an Audi where the alarm at least covers the OBD port ......

[fazman]

Originally Posted by Evil Diesel

The reason that the 'Ebay' used parts market is so cheap is that your car is being stolen to facilitate this. The fact that nothing was (or is being done) by BMW to resolve the security flaws in these cars is unacceptable imo (as a customer who has had a £47,000 car stolen). I now drive an Audi where the alarm at least covers the OBD port ......

JB4 on any map other than zero will block the OBD2 port from working, i consider the JB4 the best bang for the buck mod.

[IanS100]

Wasn't the OBD issue resolved back in 2011 / 12 with a revision for new cars and an update for earlier cars?

[LM]

so apparently the limp mode was because one of the turbos valves was not opening and closing properly. They are fixing it and I'm hoping to get back into it tomorrow.

[LM]

got my car back today and seems like they have finally fixed it car pulls much better, throttle response has changed dramatically. Just happy to be in one now

[jrp73]

Originally Posted by LM

got my car back today and seems like they have finally fixed it car pulls much better, throttle response has changed dramatically. Just happy to be in one now

Enjoy time for jb4

[Chappers 71]

Originally Posted by jamespheely

Enjoy time for jb4

Yep, than you can spend hours with your generic tablet plugged in to it, pondering what map your going to run & reading engine data.