[graphite3series35i]

So my car is a 08 335i with 150xxx, just had OPG and OFHG replaced along with a carbon blast, I’m driving an hour and a half away from home, I hit a bump and my radio starts bugging out, 5 mins later the speed limit goes from 80 to about 55 my dash cluster starts going bonkers, tpms, tranny, traction control, abs, etc. I pull over, the car dies and I sit for a few mins, my girlfriend comes and jumps my car, starts back up no lights no issues at all, drove to autozone to get the battery tested, read 12.5v while car is off, charge level 80% but I had just cranked it and turned it off 3 times in a row to test it so ofc the charge will be a little lower, I drive to her apartment and some of the lights come back on but not all of them, I’ve been reading and I’m thinking it’s the ground wire that rots our apparently. Basically I just want to know if anyone has experienced this and what it could possibly be, my alternator was used off a low mileage car last year, replaced starter myself over 8 months ago and battery is less than a year and a half old. I’m just worried that when I’m driving home that my car is gonna start acting weird again, I know a good deal amount these cars and I was just wondering if anyone could give me a pointer, I know there’s threads on this but I can’t pinpoint the issue, I’m thinking maybe the big bump I hit adjusted the ground cable to cause it to act funny, the speedo was going from 0 to 55 repeatedly when it originally happened. I don’t want to have to tow the car 100 miles home over a wire. Any suggestions? Thank you all

[roadkillrob]

A ground strap might be a possibility and I would check them all, but usually that affects the engine but not other things although power fluctuations can do some weird things. All your symptoms point to low battery voltages wigging stuff out and all the dash lights indicate a brief power disconnect.

Going to ask the obvious, have you had the recall done on the fuse box power cable, it applied to all 2008's and basically the power cable from the battery to the fuse box flexes where it is mounted on the back of the fuse box behind the glovebox and starts to break and have intermittent power issues and eventually totally breaks and you have no power. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820077

Also check the obvious, they may have disconnected your battery to do the work, make sure the connections are on and tight, guessing autozone tested maybe from under the hood and not at the battery, but even if they did it in the trunk check the cables they may not have noticed.

[graphite3series35i]

I’ve had the blower motor wiring recalled, but I don’t know about that recall as I’ve only owned the car for less than 2 years, Is there any visual way to see it has been done? I don’t think is it the battery as it cranks like a champion every time I try to start it.

[graphite3series35i]

Well just got battery replaced, problems still occurring, my old battery was bloated and overheated so I guess it’s that battery cable recall, currently stuck 50 miles from home with tow truck on the way, thanks for the insight.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by graphite3series35i

...08 335i...I’m driving an hour and a half away from home, I hit a bump and my radio starts bugging out, 5 mins later the speed limit goes from 80 to about 55 my dash cluster starts going bonkers, tpms, tranny, traction control, abs, etc...

Any time you see a "Light Show" on your instrument cluster, that suggests a Voltage Issue with abnormal Voltage variation (either high or low). Alternator output to the Battery, Battery cable connections, Ground connections all may cause voltage spikes which are NOT good for the Electronic Control Modules, and cause them to send strange signals to the Instrument Cluster.

I would check to make sure your battery cables are firmly connected to the battery posts, and then test for System Voltage with the motor running. If System Voltage is > 15.0 Volts, then that is the cause of the "Light Show", particularly if Voltage spikes to 16V or 17V.

You can use "Hidden Menu 9.00" to monitor your System Voltage as you drive, and see if the Voltage fluctuates from the normal range of 13.5V to 14.8V as you drive. If it goes over 15.0 V, then your Voltage Regulator on the rear of the Alternator is likely defective. You can damage Electronic Modules or your Battery by continuing to drive if System Voltage is > 15.0 V.

George

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by graphite3series35i

Well just got battery replaced, problems still occurring, my old battery was bloated and overheated so I guess it’s that battery cable recall, currently stuck 50 miles from home with tow truck on the way, thanks for the insight.

Bummer, did they code the battery also, not coding the battery can cause overcharging and results will be what you saw, so when you get a new battery make sure it is coded correctly to the car.

As for the battery cable recall, it is about an 8 inch piece they cut off of the old cable and splice on a new piece with a new end, so the cable goes from the fusebox behind the glovebox down the kickpanel and then under the door sill to the back, 8 inches from the end that connects onto the fusebox you should see a splce with heatshrink over it. The other difference is the end where it bolts to the fusebox also has a support on the cable, old one had no support and the vibration causes the end to crack.

[roadkillrob]

Here is a pic of the recall cable they put in.

[graphite3series35i]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

Bummer, did they code the battery also, not coding the battery can cause overcharging and results will be what you saw, so when you get a new battery make sure it is coded correctly to the car.

As for the battery cable recall, it is about an 8 inch piece they cut off of the old cable and splice on a new piece with a new end, so the cable goes from the fusebox behind the glovebox down the kickpanel and then under the door sill to the back, 8 inches from the end that connects onto the fusebox you should see a splce with heatshrink over it. The other difference is the end where it bolts to the fusebox also has a support on the cable, old one had no support and the vibration causes the end to crack.

It’s napa auto, they don’t have a bmw coding wire nor do I trust them to do it, I’ll do it myself when I get home, my alternator was pulled off a totaled car so possibly could be the voltage reg or the entire alternator again, will diagnose whenever tow truck man gets here, and I will also check out that recalled wire and see if it is the new one

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by graphite3series35i

It’s napa auto, they don’t have a bmw coding wire nor do I trust them to do it, I’ll do it myself when I get home, my alternator was pulled off a totaled car so possibly could be the voltage reg or the entire alternator again, will diagnose whenever tow truck man gets here, and I will also check out that recalled wire and see if it is the new one

Best of luck post back what you find!

[graphite3series35i]

Yea im just going to get the battery coded at my Indy shop and then sell this thing. Too many headaches.